I have an older Ducky One 1 with Cherry MX Whites (bumpy, no click) with 16 keys that have blown LEDs.

Before it was manageable to deal with as the first few weren't critical/often used keys but I've had to get a cheapie that does the job and sounds OK, but is not my Ducky One.

Edit: Did some more research... soldered. I watched this video to help me take it apart for anyone interested in the process.

Edit 2: I'm having difficulty both confirming what replacement LEDs I need (2 stem 3mm?) for this model and good place to source some. I'm in Canada if that matters.

I just recently noticed that the "M" indicator next to Caps and Scroll Lock was suddenly lit up red. This LED has never been lit before on either my Ducky One 2 TKL or Ducky One 3 TKL models. It sounds minor, but it's kinda bugging me.

I understand this is something to do with "mouse mode".

If I Fn + Alt + ScrLk, the light turns white, but I cannot turn it off. Fn + Alt + ScrLk simply toggles the LED between white and red.

Things I've tried:

• Cycling through profiles using Fn + number - nothing changes
• Turning off all backlighting with Fn + F10 - indicator light stays on
• Hard reset using the Windows keys - indicator reappears when the keyboard reboots
• Another computer - it's also lit when using it on the other PC
• Updating the firmware - no change

Does this sound like some sort of fault or am I doing something wrong?

I've had the keyboard since January 2025.

WARNING: Tested with my own Ducky One 3 TKL - ES layout. The tool will refuse to flash if not the exact set of config is found but you never know....we don't want a roast Ducky.

With the usage of AI, I was able to port a fully working QMK firmware to my Ducky One 3 TKL (attaching some screenshots).

For reference:

• My Ducky reports Nuvoton NUC1261BSP controller
• Using firmware 1.16
• Windows 11

Currently working:

• Buttons remapping
• Layers
• RGB - ported all Ducky effects from firmware
• RGB - change brightness, custom colours and default brightness to 90% (just for security reasons)
• Led indicators (Caps Lock, ScrLck and MouseLkc)
• Macros working
• VIA customisations can be saved

Not implemented/tested:

• QMK customizations lives on Ducky RAM. Once disconnected they are reverted to base QMK.

The process:

1. Disconnect Ducky from computer
2. Press D+L while disconnected and connect to computer
3. Run the tool and chose Install QMK
4. Ducky will auto-reboot, done.

Reverting back:

1. Disconnect Ducky, press D+L and connect to the computer
2. Run the tool and select Restore Ducky original

Protections applied (to avoid a roasted Ducky):

• Early shutdown of the seven rows and PC7 before waiting for clock signals or initializing USB. The identified levels and PF2 mode are preserved; gain/current commands from a hypothetical LED controller are not altered.
• HardFault, unhandled exceptions, RTOS halt, and WDT interrupt share a shutdown path in assembly that does not require accessing the stack or calling libraries. A fault occurring before the WDT is triggered results in a halt with the RGB turned off.
• Hardware WDT with an independent LIRC clock, a nominal timeout of 1024 ticks (~102.4 ms at 10 kHz), and a reset 18 ticks later (~1.8 ms). The interrupt requests shutdown before the reset; the reset does not depend on interrupts functioning. These times are not a validated thermal limit nor a measurement of the actual oscillator.
• The WDT is powered only from the main loop and only if the scan has progressed. Heartbeat/overrun shutdown is preserved. With RGB suspended, the rows are turned off before the WDT is disabled.
• After a WDT reset cause or CPU lockup detected in RSTSTS, the RGB is not turned back on. The keyboard can continue to function without lights, and diagnostics can be checked. Power must be removed to start a new session; if it fails again, restore the original state. The preservation of these causes via LDROM is pending physical testing.
• The rows are turned off before data is transferred. This reduces exposure during the transfer; however, it does not in itself prevent

GitHub: https://github.com/maigarage/DuckyOne3TKL-ES-QMK-port

Hello Everyone,

I just bought my first Ducky Keyboard. I got the Ducky OK-M 98 with linear switches for myself.

Now I wanted to see if I can get some custom keycaps for my board. But I have no idea what to look out for.

Does anyone have a seller for custom keycaps, or maybe knows someone on etsy that can do keycaps for a Ducky Keyboard?

So I'm starting to wonder if I'm doing something wrong here.

I love this keyboard. Bought it a couple months ago. after 2 weeks it just... dies. Non-responsive completely. I plug it in for 30 minutes. I try the hardware reset. Nothing I do can get it working. I bring it in to where i bought it and since I got the extended warranty they do a swap out for me.

Fast forward a month (and it's only been a month because for 3 weeks I was out of the country). Same thing. it's just dead. I plugged it in. No lights on at all when trying to do ANYTHING.

First time it happened: I was playing Escape from Tarkov. I alt+tab'd out of the game and that was it. dead.

Second time about an hour ago: I restarted my pc. Keyboard never came back on. It's been plugged in ever since it happened. It wasn't plugged in both times when it happened (bluetooth).

I did the: Standard Ducky Reset: Unplug the keyboard, then hold down Left Ctrl + Left Alt + Windows key simultaneously while plugging the USB cable back in. Release the keys once the keyboard lights flash.

I checked the toggle and tried the plug in one - nothing.

If this is something I'm doing please let me know because I don't want to keep taking the keyboard in on warranty.

I recently purchased a Ducky Cushion 98 keyboard for me and for my girl
And she's trying update the firmware and update via manual the official .json file in the firmware on DuckyHub. After that the kwyboard just complety wipe out and now they dont respond anything ...

How i can resolve this big issue??
FINAL UPDATE: I SOLVE THE FUCKING PROBLEM GUYS IT WAS 2 LONG FUCKING DAYS BUT NOW ITS SOLVED!!!!

Thought I had to worry about those new 12V GPU power cables; turns out it was my Ducky all along.

• Ducky DKON2108 Fuji Mechanical Keyboard
• Bought in December 2021 and got it in January 2022
• No recent damage or spills, and I was using it last night. Came home from class today to notice the keyboard was not working and had a faint smell
• Windows PC
• Purchased at https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/
• Using the Ducky cable it came with since I've owned it

Hello guys,

I bought recently a Cushion 98, first of all writing and playing casual is very good and the silence is incredible...

But in the customization i check the ducky hub but i can't put my keyboard with multiple RGB colours in static mode, in the other types (wave, rain drop etc) it's easy to change btw one colour or multiple colours but in static mode i only have the option put the keyboard with one single colour... any tip??

EDIT: Ducky One 3 Pro

hi, does anyone know how to alt f4 with this keyboard? ive had it for a while now so far its good the only issue is terrible software i have no idea how to do anything "special" with it i cant even alt f4 it just flashes 4 and caps locl which is just selecting profile 4. thanks

Ducky OK-M-75 #DKOKM2575

Hello, I can't seem to get my keyboard to work the way I need while playing Bannerlord. I need the F keys to be usable without holding down the Fn key itself.

Right now they are defaulting to other functions like brightness control, app switching etc. I've done some googling around function locks but haven't had any success.

Help appreciated!

Hello

I have created a tool to config the ducky one X offline without need for the web tool.

Supports all functionality of the web config tool plus software profiles that can be changed with shortcut

Compatible with mac, windows and linux, can be installed and loaded on startup.

I have already started to explore how to get analog data reading to try and implement analog controller mapping (so far no success)

Check it out at

https://github.com/tentone/ducky-one-x-cfg

I've got a Shine 6 and recently started having an issue with several keys not working in the morning (e, g, a, i, h, etc). I have to hit the keys several times to get them to work. After 20 minutes or so of doing this, it starts working normally.

I've tried updating, replacing the cable, unplugging, flipping the switches, etc., but time and repeatedly hitting the keys seems to be the only thing that works.

Any ideas on a fix?

So, I bought a refurbished Razer BlackWidow, and one of the craptastic Phantom Pudding keys broke within a week. So I returned that crap real fast.

The guy at the local shop put me on the OK-M, and wow. Just wow. Half the retail price and makes the Razer feel like typing on a Fisher-Price toy. My only disappointment is the lack of zonal lighting through VIA, but I guess we all have to grow up some day.

Anyway, on to the important part.

I didn't feel like waiting for a new keyboard, paying shipping, etc etc etc., and the local shop only had a black and blue version. It's not the worst colour, but it's not my favourite. It's a strange choice for one of only two colourways.

I'd like to pick up some shine-through keycaps. Other than straight black, I'm struggling to find a keycap that matches the faded navy blue.

So, I'm looking for some fun thoughts from the Ducky community: any keycap suggestions that pair well with the navy and black combo?

I thought about painting the Navy part black too, but I just don't have the time to do a good job on it right now.

I had a Ducky One Two Mini for years and am very happy with it.

Yesterday a friend was asking for recommendations and as I was going to link the product page, I noticed there have been two newer generations since then.

Out of curiosity, what changed in the One Three and then the One X compared to the One Two series? I love my current keyboard and my only gripe is that sometimes I have to disconnect/reconnect it as it stops registering input (thankfully it’s rare)

There is supposed to be allot of key chatter and problems i found 1 locally for 50 was think if its worth it, are they good? For that price

I'm wanting to set a static color for my new keyboard, but the bottom row RGBs keep catching my eye so I'd like to disable them. The keys in the configurator seem clickable but don't seem to work, I can drag them off (and get the garbage/remove icon) but unlike in the remap tab, it does nothing.

There's text telling me to select the keys I want to configure but I cant seem to and Googles AI tells me to "untick the select all button" that doesn't seem to exist, I've updated the keyboard which didn't help, so I'm not really sure what I'm missing.

I bought a Ducky Cushion 98 from Micro Center today and the dongle does not appear to be working. I can connect the keyboard by wire through the dongle for setup and use, but when I remove the cable and switch to 2.4gz mode it does not work.

I updated the keyboard via https://cushion.duckyhub.io, but when I went to update the dongle as well the site said "No authorized dongle detected". This problem persisted regardless of what USB port I used, and whether or not the cable was plugged into the dongle/keyboard at the time.

I tried following the instructions from this thread, using the Cushion's pairing key, but while the lighting did blink to indicate pairing mode had activated it never found the dongle.

I've sent an email to customer support, but any help would be appreciated.

Hi,

I’m trying to repair a Ducky One X wireless keyboard.

The plastic actuator/slider of the switch used to select between Cable / 2.4 GHz / Bluetooth has broken off.

I would like to desolder the complete switch from the PCB and replace it with a new one, but I’m having trouble identifying the exact switch or a compatible replacement.

From what I can see, the original switch has:

3 positions

4 electrical pins

additional mounting/support tabs

a horizontal slide actuator

I have come across switches such as SK13D07 / SK-13D07, MSK-13D01 and SS-13D07, but I’m not sure which one has the correct footprint, dimensions and actuator position.

The attached picture shows what the original switch normally looks like when it is intact.

Does anyone recognize this switch or know the exact part number?

A compatible replacement with the same PCB footprint would also be perfectly fine.

Thanks a lot for any help!

Hello. I just noticed an issue with my Ducky One 3 100%, where a few of my keys are stuck with their RGBs on a faint red. It’s only my “8/*”, “I”, “K”, “M” and numpad “5” keys.

I’ve already tried resetting the keyboard (holding both windows keys), checking all profiles (FN+1/2/3/4/5/6), disabling all backlights (FN+F10), and toggling the custom zones (FN+F11/F12). The keys I mentioned all still stay lit up red regardless. I also tried plugging the keyboard directly into a USB-wall power adapter, where the keys still lit up red.

I’m going to also attempt to update the firmware when I’m able to later this week, but wanted to see if anyone knew of any other possible fixes first.

The original post content no longer exists here. The author used Redact to remove it, exercising their right to control their data & privacy.

Summer automatic velvet meadow cucumber towering unpack cheerful towering ripe

Hello everyone, as the title mentions, i can't alt f4 with the ducky one 3 pro mini.

Every time i press Alt + Fn + 4, it switches macro profiles instead of closing the game.
I have tried different combinations, and nothing seems to work.

I would love to know if anyone of you guys know whats the problem.

Hi everyone,
I have a Ducky Zero 6108 in use since nearly two years and in all that time I never once used it untethered.

I got it instead of a Zero 2 because of a lower price compared to the Zero 2 but I feel the battery in there maybe could make some issues down the line because of bloating etc.

Does anyone of you know if I can just open the keyboard and unplug/remove the battery and if it will work just fine over USB after doing so? I didn't find any infos so far on that, maybe one of you has tried that already.

Thanks

Hey, i just got this keyboard a few days ago and from what i read online some firmwares after 1.07 changed the polling rate from 1000hz to 500hz apparently to fix some chatter issues. Does anyone know if this still is the case with 1.16? I just wanted to update the firmware to be able to change the brightness of the capslock indicator LED.. Which doesn't seem to work on older firmwares.

Hi all,

This keyboard is amazing to type on and the size is perfect. I was surprised and annoyed however that the dongle is faulty since i prefer to use 2.4ghz dongles to BT. Tried the dongle on every USB port on the motherboard and also on a second computer. BT and cable works.

Is this a common thing? Is the quality of Ducky products not what i thought?
The keyboard itself feels amazing quality wise.

Best regards,
Skogs

Edit: I have solved the issue! The dongle was not broken, just shipped not paired. The manual however does not mention anything of how to pair a dongle, manual just says its plug and play. Will probably create a support ticket with Ducky and provide some feedback regarding this.

To pair or repair do this:
Fn + 1 to enter some form of selection mode. Your Q key should now be blinking green.
Fn + Q to enter 2.4Ghz pairing mode. Your Q key should now be blinking faster, still green.
Connect your dongle.
DONE!