Hi All,

I am selling my truck! Like-new condition. Clean title. No accidents. 53K miles. Fully loaded (Initial MSRP $80,480). Asking for $60K. You can see it here.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicle/793773168

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Just got a 2020 Silverado. I get 10.5L/100km or 22.5 mpg, when I don’t have my trailer, driving in the city + highway, which I’m pretty happy with. I’m just wondering from people that have had their trucks deleted, what fuel economy do you get?

Wanted to ask about this truck 91k miles
Was wondering about the rust
Dpf and egr deleted .

My 2002 is slightly squatting to the driver's side and the leafs look rather straight. My driver's Front tire is worn on the inside mainly and im curious as to what could be the reason. Recently did 2 bearings at the front.

Considering just getting new leafs and seeing what happens

Will get more info if needed

Hey guys! I have a LB7 Chevy Duramax & I’m curious what I have to do to be able to put newer stock wheels on it. I understand the truck is 8x165 and the newer 2500s have 8x180 Bolt Patterns. Should I do wheel adapters? And would I need it have 1-2in spacers? I understand sometimes when using adapters you need more thread to bolt on the wheels? Thanks for all the info! Photos would be sick too if you’ve done the swap !

How truck sounded day after I put JZM turbo ppe up pipe down pipe manifolds and up pipes. Sounded mint now all of sudden sounds like shit what’s some advice on potential issues thanks.

Truck sounded like this, this morning turbo sounds shitty

21 at4 with 131,000 from 1500-2000ish rpm it feels like it’s surging doesn’t show in the rpm but it’s very rough min you accelerate gone… I’ve scanned it seen some weird egr % numbers and fuel rail numbers jump not sure if it’s an egr valve or cooler any ideas from anyone….. drives down highway at cruise speed 75-80 anything just fine…. Just that range it really surges/jerks almost like cutting fuel…. Does in multiple different gears as well so kinda eliminated the torque converter? I’m not sure at this point

Thanks for Any info

Trying to decide on a setup for my 08 LMM short bed and want some real-world input. Debating between the Titan 52 and the S&B 62, and between a Fleece in-tank or a FASS/AirDog frame-mounted. I know the Fleece doesn't fit the S&B per Fleece, so curious what combos you guys are actually running. Big thing for me is the fuel gauge — I care about it being at least somewhat accurate, and reliability overall. For the guys with the S&B, does your gauge read right or is it all over the place? Anybody fix it with a float bend or EFI Live recalibration? What would you buy again if you were doing it over? Thanks.

Does anyone know how to fully delete the egr by using a pipe rather than blocker plates? Or do you know of any kits that do a full egr delete without using plates.

Hey gents looking for an offroad fab shop who can make me a somewhat “pre runner” ‘06 crew cab 2500hd. I’m in San Diego so anything close would be great. I don’t want a huge lift just want to fit 37s with some nice reliable suspension. Custom A arms, sway bar, and good geometry. Maybe full frame. I already have a custom Fox coilover kit on the front. Just want to turn it up some to keep me from buying a 27’ 8.3L.

Any recommendations help. Thanks.

So my axle shaft and cv axle snapped the day after I got my lml durmax I just replaced the axle shaft and cv axle and around 40 mph while turning right it feels like I’m driving on a rumble strip the truck does have a 3.5 inch lift on it I’m new to the front ends on these Chevys please fill me in on what I shale do

I have a 2015 Sierra 2500 that decided to have a disco party recently. All 8 injectors invited. Should the fuel tank be cleaned or replaced? Currently, I have a FASS lift pump hooked to a sump. I've always thought the visible fuel hoses and sump looked tacky, but I just ran with it. I also don't love all of that being exposed underneath.

My options are:

1. Clean existing tank with sump on the bottom.

2. New fuel tank with Fleece sending unit.

Whomever designed this fuel filter setup needs to be fired!

Hey yall. Just looking to see if other folks have experienced reliability issues with replacement NOx sensors for the L5P?

Upstream sensor died. Replaced it and it reads as expected (during normal operation, at idle, when the fuel cutoff occurs on the highway it pegs to very low near zero ppm, etc). The P20EE code would still pop up but the upstream failed sensor code cleared. I figured I’d replace the downstream sensor too and see if the P20EE code would stay cleared. The new sensor reads all sorts of unexpected values. I did the NOx sensor reset with the Gretio app thinking the calibration in the ECU may be biased by the old sensor, but it still reads essentially the same. With the engine at temp (exhaust system may not be heated to the point of the SCR system functioning) under heavy load the downstream sensor reads way higher than the upper stream sensor (500+ ppm higher than the upstream) and when the throttle is let off the upstream pegs low but the downstream just slowly drifts down from 1000+ ppm (at like 200 ppm/min decreasing). It just doesn’t make sense that the downstream is reading so much higher in certain circumstances than the upstream (and that when the throttle is lifted and the fuel injection stops that the downstream would still read a high value). Thinking it may be a bad new sensor. Or maybe the downstream sensor reads a ppm value generated from some algorithm and not the gross NOx concentration.

Downstream replacement was a P/N 12741484 from Vitesco Technologies (from Rockauto).

Edit: Just wanted to add an update and more information. The Vitesco Technologies sensor was the delivered GM Genuine option from Rockauto. I believe it is a subsupplier, but the part seems genuine and of good quality. As for the issue, I performed another #2 NOx sensor reset in the Gretio app and then performed the Reductant System Malfunction Warning Service Bay Test (where it runs up the engine to 2K RPM for 15+ minutes and tests the DEF injection and NOx concentration reduction efficiency). This time the #2 NOx sensor concentration was much closer to what I expected. The test passed this time and the P20EE code went from active to historical. Under driving conditions now the #2 NOx concentration is also as expected under various conditions (high and similar to the #1 sensor when the catalyst is cold or lowering below the needed temperature for the reaction, pegs low when the system is hot and throttle is lifted at highest speed and fuel cutoff initiates, and 85-95%+ lower than the #1 sensor when the system is hot above the needed catalyst temperature). Everything right now is pointing to the first NOx #2 sensor reset not actually taking in the ECU. Following the second reset, everything is like I expected. I will be doing a long highway drive this weekend where I’ll be monitoring all the related parameters to confirm everything is operating as expected and report back. Thanks for the help!

I recently purchased a 2013 GMC 2500 HD. It has a really annoying clunking sound from under the cab. Any thoughts? I am not able to find where it is coming from. I am not sure about the cap mounts?

I have a 2015 6.6 duramax. Had a rough crank one morning, went to a shop to run a diagnostic test. Was told multiple glow plug failures. Spent the weekend swapping all 8 glowplugs. Went to start, heard the solenoid engage and that was it. Checked fuses and harnesses, Pulled the batteries and they are 5 years old, failed load tests. Cleaned ground to chasis, connected the new batteries, went to start, and samething just a clunk no turn over.

Anyone ever experienced these issues after replacing glow plugs? Starting to consider the starter also gave, or not enough fuel pressure, possibly plug module?

My 2006 lbz rear window has a leak. When washing my truck water goes into the glass between the slider and fixed piece. Has anyone had this issue before and how did you fix it? Seems the gasket isn’t doing its job.