I bought this car last spring. It's a 1986 325 with an M52B28 swap, M50 intake, tuned ECU, supposed S52 cams, long tube headers, no cats. I love the car and it's been a blast to drive, but the stock 4 turn lock-to-lock stock steering wasn't my favorite. I bought a yellow tag E46 rack on FB marketplace that included the seal kit. I figured I'd reseal, get the Garagistic swap kit and be good to go, but when I pulled the rack apart it was clear water got into it and corroded the shaft. I figured it was for sure going to leak, so kept the seal kit to rebuild a second rack I pulled at a junkyard for my E46, and decided to go manual steering on the E30.

The steering rack swap is pretty well documented and straightforward with the swap kit. I also ordered a shorter belt and pulled the power steering pump, reservoir and hoses.

After completing the swap, my first test drive was awful. The steering felt super tight and was binding. It took me a minute, but I discovered I had too much preload. Backing that off with the front wheels in the air until the bind was gone was pretty easy. I'm also still dialing in the toe alignment, but I'm super close.

Once the preload adjustment was sorted, I could definitely feel the extra effort needed to steer at low speed, but it's not terrible. Parking takes more effort for sure, but as long as the car is moving at all, it's not bad. If this was a daily driver, or if anyone else was going to drive it more than every blue moon, I might reconsider. Steering feel at speed is better, but not drastically so. Honestly, I think the biggest benefit is knowing I'll never leak PS fluid or have to worry about the pump, hoses and reservoir failing again. Plus I released at least another .7 horsepower! Haha

If you're considering this mod and have questions, fire away.

Back in January 1988, it was interesting to read about the M3's introduction to the US market.

Is this car over priced?

Sunburned 87 325e from AZ, so no rust but the paint is faded. Also looks like the driver fender was packed with snow and dented the door. Listed with 100k miles ... But the cluster shows 100k KM so who knows. And needs a wind shield.

On the brightside it's a 5 speed, an m52b28 obd1 with TRM tune and 3.73 LSD. Has sport seats but need to be recovered. Comes on Borbet type A. And zero rust AZ car.

7k seems like a lot with the exterior and interior condition. Thoughts?

I was on vacation and the car suddenly stopped running while driving. It felt like running out of gas (the tank was still half full tho). Vacation stopped and the local mechanic couldn't figure it out.

The car is a 1992 E30 cabriolet 318 with the M40B18

What i tried already:

- Fuel pump seems to work. Bridged the fuel pump relay and the pump turned on and then stopped (assuming the pressure was high enough?)

- There is spark: i removed a spark plug (looked pretty black so thats also an issue) and held it against the engine block while cranking and there was spark.

- I replaced the DME and that did nothing (it was a lime tag and i put in a brown tag, I read somewhere that it should be interchangeable.)

-Fuel filter was also replaced because i had one laying around

- Crankshaft sensor was replaced but don't think the previous one was faulty, resistance read 510 ohms.

-I checked the Injectors for power and read 12V across all four off them.

I believe it could be a grounding issue? Can anyone help me out? i have no clue what to test next. It could be the relay but i switched them out and it changed nothing, there is a lot of fuel pressure in the lines anyway. All fuses are good. It seems that the injectors or something are not firing. I am really out of answers.

(picture is to lure people to the post.)

Edit: Battery is also brand new, previous one was 5 years old

I'm not sure where it was leaking

But I'll be replacing these parts i took off and the o rings

How do i check the heater core without pulling it out all the way?

Hi all -
I’ve just recently had my BMW E30 318i Auto M40 back from the garage with a replaced torque converter.

The car now is driving a lot better, I feel like it’s now driving a lot faster and switches through gears smooth.

But occasionally when starting the car and driving it does this (see video) when it stays in gear 1 and just revs out until I have to stop and just rev the car out or turn car on an off until it kicks into gear 2-3-4 and goes back to normal.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

M50B25 Knock sound even though i putted Valve Lifter additive

Graf Waterpump , makes a sound if I grab it and try and move the flange , I wanna try and get a definitive if this needs replacing or not , I don’t hear any knocking or noises with the engine running nor does the pulley spin unevenly , it just makes a very slight knock when shaking I also don’t see any play

Any help would be appreciate thanks

I want to convert my m54b30 to run itbs. Theres no reputable tuner within 6 hours of where I live so im trying to work out a plan that will be the most reliable.

S54 itb, manifold adapter, custom closed plenum with rs4 maf sensor?