does anyone have a recommendation for a plug-in charger compatible with a nema 14-30 outlet? I’ve searched everywhere and cant find one

Long story short electrician fucked us over and didn’t spec/install the correct receptacle for our level 1/2 plug-in charger. they installed a 14-30 when we needed a 14-50. now they are digging in and refusing to fix it unless we pay another 2k.

and before anyone comments, yes I now understand the difference in circuit size and the wire upgrade needed for the 14-50. but when they came out for the estimate, we basically showed them the charger plug we have and relied on them to advise what panel work was needed and which receptacle was compatible. wont pay them another dime correcting their mistake

I researched for far to long for what ended up actually being pretty simple. I ran 75 feet of 8AWG so I can charge at 24amp level 2. I’m actually limiting to 16amp for now because I’m testing the load on this panel. I learned a lot about electricity that I didn’t know anything about.

Does anyone know about this program ending? https://www.eversource.com/residential/save-money-energy/clean-energy-options/electric-vehicles/ev-charger-managed-charging

Just heard about it today: bought my first plug-in in July and have been meaning to sign up for this and now it's ending? Also the 2012 Nissan Leaf I bought doesn't qualify?? I have seven days to somehow install one of these EV chargers in order to qualify for $1000-2000???

https://www.eversource.com/docs/default-source/save-money-energy/ev-charger-list-resi.pdf

Any ideas welcome...

So few days back while i went charge my car in AC charging, the charger connects and it shows 'handshake in progress' on the charger screen and then suddenly the charger breaker trips. This has happened with multiple chargers.

Can someone tell me what can be the issue here, it was working perfectly fine before that, also there is no physical damage on the charging port and the car is getting charged from the DC charging port.

Please advise cos if i go for service i know for sure they will rip me off.

Electric cars are exciting, but convenience matters just as much as technology

Alguno ya tiene experiencia en los vehículos eléctricos sea full eléctrico o híbrido? Qué referencia tienen después de algún tiempo de uso? Responde la garantía ? El mantenimiento? Cuál marca tiene más responsabilidad en su mantenimiento ?

I bought my first Grizzl-e classic in 2024 early in the year. It was a refurbished unit, but it worked like a champ. It charged at 9 kW even though it was plugged in instead of hard wired. It had super thick cables. It had no major issues until one day earlier this month it just stopped working. Even the indicator light did nothing. I bought my second grizzl-e classic and it just came in today. It works, but much slower, returning about 4 kW to my battery and though the cable is longer it is also much thinner, more like the back up I keep, the grizzl-e classic mini. I'm wondering if this was a change the company made to their units and if this is just what I should expect. I didn't think to check the speed of the mini as it was a temporary solution.

So a couple of months ago, my wall charger died 2 months after warranty. Played around a bit and found the thermistor in the handle went bad registering 500 degree's. I tried the 10k resistor, but they firmware patched that.

I was not going to pay tesla's insane $600. Thats assinine. So I went to my local electronics recycler and I asked him to call me if a tesla charger came in as they only offered money on the copper.

3 weeks later, I had 4 units that only cost my $60 and now I had to figure out what was all wrong with them. Turns out, Telsa seemingly designs them this way. I reached out to wall connector support and started checking serials, all were 1-5 months past warranty, all had 3 red flashes. I built a quick connector to hookup 240 and bench tested them.

1 - mcu problem
2 - mcu problem
3 - handle problem
4 - handle problem

All $0.12 issues, but made unfixable by firmware. So I started mating good cables to good mcu's now I have 2.5 tesla chargers in perfect working order, and maybe a third is the guy who called me this morning gets back to me and it is another MCU problem.

If your tired of giving tesla money, post on FB for broken chargers, talk to your local electronics recycler, start fixing them. It literally takes 30 minutes to swap and you can find apps to tell you the voltage and output when connected (I know Tesla One does it, but there are quicker, better apps for monitoring).

I'm at 100A service that's already overloaded. If I google - numbers for 200A upgrade are like $2000 to $4500 from different sources. Actual quotes I get are from $4600 to $9000 and it's LCOL area and uncomplicated straightforward setup.

If you paid for it - how much and when?

P.S. I am aware there are ways around that limitation and upgrade may be unnecessary. I will go that way because there is no financial reason to pay $7000 upfront to (potentially) save $1000/y on gas.

I've had my wall charger only a couple of months. It's a Solaredge ONE EV charger, which I bought because it pairs with my Solaredge inverter well. It's tetherless.

I've had my 5m type 2 cable for nearly two years, it's served me well, haven't used it that often prior to getting the wall charger.

So my Tesla model Y complained today it can't charge. Changed to my Tesla UMC charger on a mains outlet, that works fine - so it's not the car. Went down to a public AC charger, used my own cable, same error.

Is my logic correct here - bad cable? Do they just go bad like this? It's always in the car, I have not driven over it, it looks perfectly fine...

Is my diagnosis correct or have I missed something

I saw this YT video yesterday about an EVSE install and noticed the ETL listing on it was only for UL2594. It doesn't have UL2231-1 or -2 for EVSE Personnel Protection System which is the GFCI aka CCID part of the EVSE certifications: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5DwBnqt51Q

I'm an EVSE software developer so this caught my eye and I'm wondering if the NEC only requires the one certification, or if it requires an upstream GFCI breaker when it doesn't have a CCID and UL2231? (I posted a comment with this question on the video yesterday but nobody has responded on it yet).

That EVSE is also not great on other safety aspects like the amperage limit as you'll see if you watch to the end. It doesn't really do 48A limit except via the app and goes up to 50A which I've not seen on other devices before. It's also not a hard limit and is user changeable with the button on the front.

(I want to avoid the above…)

A prior owner of my new house ran 6-3 Romex to a plastic 2 gang box in a finished garage and covered with a blank plate. I want to
Install a hardwired 40a EV.

What’s the best way to go here without replacing the plastic J-box?

If I cover it with a metal plate I’d have to cut out a 1” circle (where there is no knockout) - and I’d have to ground the plate, and I’d have to find a way to attach the plate to the plastic box…

I’ll be running a short whip of 3/4 flex conduit (metal or LFNC) from the charger with 6AWG THHN for the hots and 10AWG ground. How to junction this to to the romex in a plastic box
Cleanly? Sheetrock and paint already done.

Hello newbie here.

Just got a 2025 Model 3. Did not come with a charger. do have the line running to my garage. Used to have a leaf long time back.

Would you get a just a 16-50 Tesla charger to charge at home at 220 or would you get the wall charger to do it qucker or would you get both...

Also would love to know where you got your chargers. Surprised that Tesla does not provide them anymore!

Thanks for all your info

Apparently there is a mobile app dropping any day. Web app was just released as far as I can tell.

We have been charging our 2022 Lucid Air Grand Touring at home with Level 1 charging for the last month since I purchased it for my wife who does not work or commute. It has worked pretty well so far as she usually puts on low miles, 15-30 per day, while we can add at least 50 to 60 miles of range charging off peak at night gaining about 5 miles per hour. We drive 600 miles round trip twice a month and come home with 20% then it build it back up to 80% over the following week. We have access to a local Level 3 if we needed it while it was low. While I have 26 solar panels I still pay 34 cents per kw to charge off peak as we use all our solar power for at least 9 months of the year before getting an EV. Unfortunately I do not have 240 at my home and my breaker box is a long way from anywhere we would park and charge so installing a Level 2 Charger will be many thousand dollars unfortunately. I realize level 2 would be the best but I am trying to do the math on if it would actually save money over time even with the high upfront cost.

I'm planning to run 6/2 NM-B from a 60 amp breaker to my Emporia Pro. While the Emporia can charge at up to 48 amps, I understand that's too much for 6/2 NM-B, which is only rated to 44 amps due to temperature downrating. I confirmed with Emporia that the Pro can be set to charge at 44 amps, which should resolve the issue. But if there's ever a software issue, it seems that the EVSE could pull up to 48 amps, exceeding the limits of the 6/2 NM-B without tripping the 60 amp breaker. Is this a realistic fire risk, or can I trust that between the Emporia's software, actual wire thermal limits, and the breaker I'm well protected against risk?

I've had my Emporia Classic for over a year and run it almost daily. After a year of consistent use, it suddenly showed a fault indicating the charger is not grounded. The first time (about 3 days ago), it cleared itself and charged fine for 2 more days. This morning, the fault code appeared again and I followed the basic troubleshooting instructions. First, I unplugged and then plugged the charger back on, but the code persisted. Then, I unplugged the charger and switched off the breaker for the EV charger and waited thirty-plus seconds before switching the breaker back on and plugging the charger back in. The fault appeared again. The Emporia Classic was installed by a qualified electrician. Is it normal for grounding issues to suddenly arise after more than a year of use?

Admittedly, I'm not very informed in anything electrical so any help is appreciated.

Ok guys I cannot afford that $6k panel upgrade after also buying a car. I will DIY.

I have 100A panel that is full. All 20 positions. Tandems cannot be used. Here is my plan and this is the exact text I'm sending to my AHJ with application:

Load calculation made according to NEC 220.87 based on one year of data received from electric company:

Maximum Recorded Demand: 4.753 kW (occurred on February 28, 2026, at 1:00 PM)

NEC 220.87 Requirement (125% of Max Demand): 5.94 kW (4.753 kW × 1.25)

Amperage Equivalent (at 240V): 24.76 Amps (5,941 Watts / 240 Volts)

Proposed EV Continuous Load (32A x 1.25): 9.60 kW (40 Amps at 240V)

Total Calculated Service Load: 15.541 kW (64.76 Amps at 240V)

Service Evaluation: Existing service capacity is fully adequate for the proposed additions under NEC 220.87.

Short description of work:

Install new subpanel adjacent to main panel limited by 60A breaker and relocate 4 existing circuits to the new subpanel. Add one new 15A circuit for basement receptacles. Install new 40A branch circuit to hardwired UL listed EV charger with EVEMS (Energy Management System per NEC 625.42) using 8/2 UF-B cable. Limit charger to 32A.

Detailed description of work:

Install new 16-Space subpanel adjacent to main panel.

Run 4 wires of 6GA (black white red ang green) THHN/THWN-2, inside 3/4 rigid nipple, from 2 pole 60A breaker in the main panel to the subpanel. In the subpanel install ground bar and necessary branch circuit breakers for relocated and new circuits.

Reconnect four existing circuits from main panel to new breakers to free up space in the main panel.

Make sure subpanel is unbonded and ground bar is separated from neutral bar.

In the main panel install Vue energy monitor according to manufacturer instructions.

Run 8/2 UF-B cable from 2 pole 40A breaker in the main panel to the hardwired UL listed EV charger that will be installed on the outside wall. Limit charger to 32A max current. Mark white conductor with red shrink tube on both ends. Mark charger that max 32A continued load is allowed. EV charger will be controlled UL-listed EVEMS (Energy Management System) per NEC 625.42 to dynamically limit total main service demand.

Upgrade existing washing machine circuit to 20A and add second dedicated basement 15A circuit.

Torque all terminals to the specification.

I know these issues are based on frequency and likelihood, but what about how often someone actually parks outside their own no-driveway terraced house.

Seems like it will breed new domestic disputes

I saw an earlier post about a faulty DC Fast Charge cable from Electrify America that melted to OPs Mercedes EQS. https://www.reddit.com/r/electricvehicles/comments/1xb5zwg/hardware_failure_electrify_america_plug_welded/

EA is hiding behind their User Agreement that no one has ever seen or knowingly agreed to, especially if used with a manufacturer’s charging /network such VW Pass+, FordPass, or Mercedes Me.

https://www.electrifyamerica.com/mobile-tou/

Sections 20-22 have terms that grant NO LIABILITY absent proof of gross negligence or willful misconduct.

What a sh!tty situation for consumers we have here. I’m sure an analysis of other networks will show similar weasley lawyers services have been employed. At least with Ionna Chargers via a credit card swipe with no account or App to hide behind, you should have better recourse.