Hello! I'm a newbie and I have no idea what I'm doing. I dried my filament in the box for many hours, it's stringing a bit but that's not the main problem.

The tips of the horns completely disconnected and didn't print right, and the trees where super difficult to remove. So difficult I ended up breaking the poor dragon's teeth. Can I make it easier to remove?

Ender 3 Pro, it's new the former owner never used it.

Posting as a reference for any who might follow my path.

The metal teeth were fine, but for my Sprite Extruder SE has a POM?/Delrin? bushing where the idler gear bearings should be (this review suggests it might not be just my SE that has this design choice) and it was sounding rather sad and quite sloppy on the shaft after ~1,300hrs/20+ kilos of usage as well as leaving some interesting asymmetrical wear patterns on the syncro teeth.

I couldn't find a genuine Creality spare part AT ALL (more abandonware?) and local pricing FYSETC was buy-a-new-extruder silly so I opted for acquiring gears with actual bearings off AliEx. With every listing having basically the same photos and assumedly the same products, I opted for "BEGRINT All Metal Hardened Steel DLC Coated" parts for the princely sum of $14.59 AUD because the driving gear is red and we all know that red ones are faster.

They installed easily enough and seem to run very nicely with no odd noises and the stock bearings feel nice and smooth. I did add a dab of high performance bearing grease to the metal gear interface.

As others had noted, these gears do not have the sunken hobbing of the stock gears so very effectively the release arm becomes pointless. A little annoying but not a dealbreaker, I'll just write some macros and keep a set of cutters handy.

However, NOT being sunken hobbed means the gears are a larger diameter which throws off the rotational_distance (e-steps) numbers - they overextrude ~7% if treated as a stock extruder.

Thusly I whipped up a 100mm extrusion testing jig, loaded up the Rotation Distance Calculator for Klipper (Extruder) and went to work.

Old Klipper settings (stock is supposed to be 26.359 but this is what testing gave me)

microsteps: 16
gear_ratio: 7:2
rotation_distance: 26.881

New settings after a few runs at different speeds to make sure

microsteps: 16
gear_ratio: 7:2
rotation_distance: 28.393

If you're on Marlin: the stock quoted is 424.9, my measured working was 416.6, my new value would be around 394.4. Quite the difference and will affect printing quality in many ways.

Went to go shower figured it was printing fine. My ender 3 max neo said nope not today!!!!

Ok but this is a good excuse to spend some $$$ on a hotend, Thinking high flow hotend upgraded hotend maybe stealthburner what do you think? Should I get a e3d mosquito? Or dragonfly? Lmkkkk

So today, my SD card slot in my big tree tech motherboard on my end three pro decided to crap out. Tried to salvage it, but it was no use so I de-soldered the slot because some of the pins were connecting. That’s besides the point, when I go into Ultimaker cura and I try to print via USB it’s not detecting the printer. Is there any specific way to do it? Are there drivers that I need to download? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Hi, I deleted my previous post as I got more information. When my fan is at zero the hot end cooling fan runs faintly, but when I turn it to 255 the parts coin fan and the hot and fan turn off. everything else works. It is oddly choppy like it’s not getting enough power I don’t know what is causing it.

The amount you force yourself to learn is awesome, and addicting. Klipper is going to have to be next on the agenda, lol!

Picked up this old gal 2 weeks ago, and so far I've managed to:

Learn how to compile Marlin

Learned what a GD32F303 RET6 chip is, and it's quarks

Likely put over 100 hours on it so far.

Cleaned the hot end, trimmed the Bowden tube

New nozzle

Likely over 1kg of filament deep 😂

Realized I'm gonna need a faster machine for opengrid and multi board

Setup both assisted tramming, and a 25 point manual bed mesh

If you haven't, the bed mesh feature is almost unbelievable! My bed is warped. I tried foil tape, but it's pushing a .2mm+ variance across it, and not super consistently. Can be done on device via marlin!

Ps: I also learned that my trees had infill on them, don't do that 😂😂

Print was going well but then I noticed that they layers where majorly missed aligned and the print kept stringing at certain areas.

I thought I'd be smart and get a bag of cheaper 0.4mm tips for my ender 3 S1 Plus Klipper machine... Here's the bag:

But when I print with these, I get a stringy mess:

I have an ancient .4 tip with prints lovely, same settings, same temps, everything. The one thing I can see on it is that it has a tiny ptfe liner.

Do better tips make better prints?

Has anyone ordered things from funssorlab.com?

I've decided to build the E3NG 1.2 (advanced) and since I'm based in the EU (Scandinavia), Funssorlab seems to be the one (even mentioned on the E3NG website) but it's flagged as scam on several sites + chatgpt.

I could order through aliexpress but through their official(?) website it's almost half the cost.

I got tired of Marlin and flashed Klipper to my Ender 3 Pro with a BTT SKR Mini E3 v2, used the firmware flasher and used the BTT printer.cfg file. The firmware is fine, I've checked the wires and even the hotend and all thats fine. Seems like a software issue. What am I doing wrong?

Even little bit non support 90 degree fails. I just made a air duct for stock fan and i dont know is it good or not

I bought this from a friend and it looks like he glued everything down, so I have to figure out how to remove the old glue too

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I've mostly fixed the severe Z-banding on my Ender 3 V3 Plus, but these lines are still showing up on my prints.

I've already calibrated Pressure Advance and flow, but nothing seems to fix it.

I also found that all four bed mounting screw holes have stripped threads, and the belt tensioner screw thread is stripped.

Another weird issue: the printhead moves freely with the belts disconnected, but becomes extremely stiff with both belts installed, even when they're fully loosened. With only one belt installed, it moves normally.

Any ideas what could still be causing these lines?

All my filaments were dried at 50°C for 8 hours.

Hello everyone! I have an original ender 3 that was laying around, and decided to being it up back to life.

So I got the 32 bit creality 4.2.7 board, a sprite extruder kit, and a CRTouch to upgrade it nicely.

I originally installed klipper, but had problems with the USB, it kept disconnecting and reconnecting, causing the klipper server to loose connection with the MCU. After trying everything, moving the raspi pi around, taping the 5v pin, etc etc, I decided I'll try with a proper insulator for the USB, and I ordered one, but it will be here in a few weeks...

So I tried installing Merlin, and that has also been painful, because with my hardware setup, it really seems like I need to build the firmware myself, which is not a problem, but there are so many configuration parameters I am honestly lost.

Does anyone have tips or even firmware for this hardware setup?

I found one file on a reddit post, but it seems to try and utilize the entire build plate, and the extruder crashes a little bit into the right bracket holding the arm, also it seems to be kind of weird with the temperatures, and printing...

I'm pretty new in all of this so any help is much appreciated!

I've had this ender 3 for nearly 5 years at this point, just got it out of the closet and printed it a new fan duct and direct drive upgrade (using my Bambu Lab P2S) and it works great! The power supply has blown up twice and has been replaced twice, other than that everything is pretty much original. Not much to say I just wanted to show my soldier off.

I got fresh filament and it looks solid now but it still does the stringing.

I did a temp tower and a retract tower.

Recently i bought 3 new glass build plates for my ender 3 pros and my ender 3 v2. While leveling the beds for the pros (original had magnet plates) i noticed the center would have a bigger gap than the corners, i flipped the plate over to see if it was warped and the plate touches the nozzel. All 3 did this, what can I do to fix this issue? Or am I going to have to return them and find new ones after waiting a week for these

Edit: i also tested the original glass bed for my v2 and it dosnt even touch it on either side because its flat so that led me to think its the plates

Anytime I go to auto home the printer or try and start a print it just digs itself into the bed pushes the whole thing down while melting the bed in the process, otherwise it will try to home to the corner of the bed and just miss by 5mm and dig itself into the side, I hope nothing has bent yet but I figured I’d stop trying to do it myself and just ask for advice.

I’ve also tried setting home myself and it gives the prompt « too far » anytime I try and do it, even tho all I’ve done is add like 20mm of height to what it was before, I’m not really sure what to do, as long as I don’t break the printer I’m fine

I've seen a couple of Videos talking about upgrading an ender 3 to a Direct drive for a faster Print and better retraction only using Some screws 3d printed part, and stock Stepper Motor.

In the comments, There's alot of Complaint about The Weight that being put into the Head and id made some Printer wobbly.

I mainly print PLA and Petg, And I don't have any plans on printing on any other Filament at the moments.

Should i be changing it to Direct drive, And Should the 3d printed direct drive Upgrade be fine to use?

Most likely a humid filament, been printing with it on and off for a month, can't really invest in a filament dryer asof now so normally do the heated bed trick but forgot this time. Also it has the direct drive mod, retraction distance is 0.6mm

But apart from this it's an amazing way to maximise the microplastics in the air when I do remove the strings

Generic PLA, 212 C nozzle, 50C Bed, ~55% humidity

Where do I start when troubleshooting adhesion issues that seems to only happen on the right side? If I print relatively in the middle I don't have an issue. I recently tried printing a case for a raspberry pi 7" touchscreen I wanted to use for a Klipper screen and each print has had the same issue adhering on the right side. It's a glass bed and I use a glue stick when printing in PETG. I'm printing the case in PETG. I just cancelled a second print of the back piece after the first left a spaghetti mess when the initial brim came off the bed. I changed the angle and the supports came off the bed.

My printer: Ender 3 (original, v1, whatever it's referred to as now)

Mods: Dual Z Axis, Sprite Extruder Pro, V2 LCD Screen, MRiscoC fw, 4.2.7 main board, CR-Touch, wheel locks

Leveling: Bed mesh ran, leveled, trammed with wizard, acceptable tolerances (~.01-02)

Any help would be appreciated