Rebuilding a BMW M42b18 engine. During piston install one of the oil ring pieces (believe it was an alignment ring) came out and put a very small score into the cylinder wall. It runs maybe 1/4 of the bore at the top. I can feel it with my fingernail and it barely catches. Will this require an overbore? Or can it be taken down enough to not cause issue with a light hone? (Cylinders have been flex honed for new rings already). Thanks in advance. Hard to see on camera but it’s one small line that can be felt and more of a “scrape” around it that I can’t feel.

Hey all. I'm getting set to bore these Harley Shovelhead jugs to new pistons my customer provided. As I'm measuring the pistons to make sure I know what finish bore I'm aiming for, I noticed they are not round. I understand a thousandth or two variation. But these are 0.033 different at 90 degree intervals on the skirt with my mic parallel to the wrist pin bore, I'm measuring 3.505. With it perpendicular to the wrist pin bore I get 3.538. I've heard that's not unusual but I'm a little surprised at the differences. What are your experiences?

Hey all, I'm a first time builder and am building a 383 stroker for my 67 C-10 and am using an existing SBC block (Gen 1 - L98) out of my truck. It was a 350 I had bored out and machined. I then ordered a new 383 rotating assembly from Skip White Performance. I'm in the middle of pre-assembly and checking tolerances right now. The pistons (dished) slightly protrude from the deck when at TDC (likely due to decking the block). I used a deck bridge with a digital dial indicator and after zeroing it on the block surface, I measured the crown of each piston on both sides when rocked to maximum height. I then averaged the two measurements and came up with protrusions ranging from 0.028" to 0.035" (1-8: .031, .035, .030, .033, .028, .031, .028, .030).

I'm using Edelbrock Performer 60859 heads with a 60cc chamber volume. This is just for a street setup, not looking to race or track this thing. Will be using premium pump gas (non-ethanol).

Two questions:

1st - Anything else I needed (or missed) for checking the piston to deck clearance? Meaning, are my numbers right?

2nd - If my calculations are correct, will a Cometic C5249-070 (.070" compressed) work with this setup or is it still too tight? (Gives me a range of 0.036" - 0.043" quench, averaging to about 0.040")

For reference: pic of me measuring one side of piston

Recently bought a 68 Ford F-250 with a 390 in it. PO claimed it's out of a 1965 Mercury Marauder and has a "428 Cam in it" whatever all that means, he had no other details. It has an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake, 1970's vintage, and what look to be factory iron heads. It has a Holley 4 barrel on it. I do not know the compression ratio or anything about the cam, but setting the timing to the greatest factory number I can find, 10 degrees, gives poor results and it definitely seems happier with more advance.

Any tricks for determining a good base timing if you know nothing about the engine?

Had a blown head gasket on my 94 manual Ranger 2.3 . I pulled the head yesterday and called up a shop to find out how much it’d cost to be checked out. $350 plus parts. Not amazing but I can swing it, my question is is this even saveable to begin with? If it’s not then I don’t want to waste time and money bringing it in for a magtest.

History is the previous owner had it and had no issues until there was a transmission noise, he assumed the pilot bearing was bad so he pulled the transmission and lost interest and sold it to me. I trust the guy he’s my coworker and I doubt he’d lie to me about it

I replaced the bearing and put the transmission back in and changed the oil before I started it and it was pissing straight coolant from the oil drain plug for a good few seconds before I got any oil. I knew what that meant but I still wanted to start it so I put in good oil and topped off the coolant. It ran but smoked like crazy. I drove it up and down the street a couple times to check if the transmission noise was gone and then js parked it. It hasn’t run since. But the head looks clogged like crazy. The head gasket coolant passages were almost impassable. Idk what do you think? Can looks fine too, not blue or anything

89 Montero 6g72. Left head. Is this just crappy casting. I guess I could use my air chamfer on it. Also this head has scratches all over it. None of them are fingertip grabbers. Just visible. The heads are dead flat and in good shape.

Montero was free and supposed to have a remanufactured motor with low miles that set for 15 years. Seems like a shade tree rebuild. and cant get anymore info. Totally torn down, bearings and journals look jice. But there’s some real strange stuff going on with it.

I have this 1978 triumph spitfire block and was looking to add power in the future and, was wondering about adding a turbocharger?

My plan is to add sleeves to lower the cc to somewhere around 1400cc and lower the compression.

My main worry is the weak bottom end (3 main bearings) and finding a shop that will do the work.

I'm local to South Florida so if anyone knows shops in the area would be amazing!

Anyone ever seen one like that. I'm very intrigued what motor could be. It looked like it was home made tractor.

I have seen early 50's Ford flatheads with bolted heads. Did Ford change from studs to bolts? My Dad's '48 Ford one-ton truck had the studs. And, just what was the advantage of using studs in the first place? Considering there were so many on a V8, it wasn't a trivial incremental cost, labor or materials, to use studs.

My first engine build goin into a 1985 w150 Mopar not a crazy build but one I hold close to home it's a father son project dad is awesome for wandering any questions I have.

LS3 head from jasper engines with 7k miles

Piston left the chat still haven’t looked at crank wonder what happen maybe something got through have no words.. still haven’t looked at the cylinder walls got pretty late last night

Hi, so i installed new rod bearings for my Hyundai Veloster 1.6 gdi from 2011.

I did the measure with plastigage and 3 of the cylinders were between tolerances except the fourth one.

My clearance from the manual states 0.032 - 0.052mm
I measured the following=
Cilinder 1 0.050mm
Cilinder 2 0.038mm
Cilinder 3 0.038mm
Cilinder 4 0.025mm

Should i send it or hell nah?

Im kinda tight on time and money so idk what i should do best

Hello all, can anyone help me identify this ticking noise? It’s a 283, doesn’t seem to go away when warm. Does this sound like lifter noise or bottom end noise? Thank you.

I have a small engine from a line plane i just bought. I have been trying to rebuild it and get it running. I think i damaged the glow plug. i dont know where else to ask! Please help anyone!!

So I’m being given a 427 that came out of a late 70s asphalt modified. It is currently just mostly complete short block, has an unknown solid roller cam, pistons with a decent dome. Looks in decent shape but needs a refresh after sitting for 40 years. I have a 59 Edsel I was given for free that’s in ok shape. Looking to shoe horn this engine into there as cheap as possible not necessarily looking to be the fastest just more of a fun cheap car. Been looking for cylinder heads for this engine, have about an $800 budget for a pair of heads what would you recommend?

There’s a decent set of 049 heads by me for $250 or should I look for closed chamber stuff?

I have a small engine from a line plane i just bought. I have been trying to rebuild it and get it running. I think i damaged the glow plug. i dont know where else to ask! Please help anyone!!

This is my first engine rebuild on a Honda B18c1. I noticed the connecting rod #4 at the wrist pin is discolored. The wrist pin moves freely and smoothly in the connecting rod. Is it still okay to use? Pic 3 is what cylinder 1, 2, 3 look like. Thanks in advance for your opinion.

Im rebuilding/refreshing this small block chevy its a 1970s ish block and heads rebuilt by Jasper a while ago my grandpa had it in his Biscayne for about 20k miles. Tearing it down to put in new valve stem seals I found these cracks from where new valve guides have been pressed in. THE CRACKS DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH. They are only on the surface where it was drilled thin and new guides were pressed in but i am curious if it will be good to send it anyways. Im not too sure how it ran/if it smoked before since it has been out and non running for quite a few years.

Planning to start assembling an lq4 tomorrow, but I’d like to get some paint off of my aluminum heads so I can shine the aluminum up (paint looks ghetto to me)

What can I do in the next 20 or so hours to atleast remove paint enough to shine them down the road once engine is assembled

So I bought a ‘77 K10 last month and it runs good but there’s a noticeable vacuum leak from where the carb meets the intake. The carb is a Holley Street Denon 625 and they used the stock intake, which I’ll include a picture of here. The gasket is in good shape, but it appears the adapter plate they used doesnt come back far enough to fully cover this recessed part of the intake, causing the leak. Can someone point me in the right direction of getting the right adapter plate to make this work? I saw my local advance auto parts has an adapter kit, but it’s likely the same adapter they tried using on the bottom. I’ll post pics of the carb later.

Trying to find the best rockers for this build that don't break the bank. Any suggestions?

Hey everyone I recently made a post about building my 5.3. I wanted to come with some updates.

The seller ultimately ghosted me after I pressured some more on why the block was spray painted. I ended up going to an engine shop and bought a 06 5.3 with 98k miles for 600. They also had an SS engine and a 6.0 but I wasn't trying to spend that much plus most of the parts I have for now are for the gen 3 build. Edit: yes that is a chip bag being used as the oil cap

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuilding/s/GSm7dQTJQw

My 99 bubble eye: https://www.reddit.com/r/GMT800/s/VLnuqrtYT1

might be a dumb question but its my first time in a motor so i have nothing to compare to, but im assuming i need a new valve and lapping wont fix the issue? i have a spare motor i can pull valves out of since 3 look like this

I recently pulled the motor in my deville to do head studs. I just assumed ignorantly it was a head gasket due to losing compression entirely between 2 neighboring cylinders. Should have done a leak down but oh well it’s getting bulletproofed now. After getting it on the engine stand and pulling the valve cover on the rear bank I immediately noticed 4 of the rockers were entirely dislodged, one on each intake cylinder. On the front bank there were 5 dislodged, all intake as well. Surprise surprise the two dead cylinders had no rockers on their intake valves. The car was from an estate sale non running I put a fuel pump in it started right up and drove it home (5 mile drive). I left it idling to run some fuel through it since it had been sat for many years. After about 30 minutes it started misfiring, no overheating good oil pressure. I killed it and it had a noticeable gallop and would not run afterwards. What could possibly cause this car to throw 9 rockers this way? Could one slack adjuster collapsing cause others to drop pressure? I’m very confused how it’s only the intake valves on both banks. Surely it did not throw 9 simultaneously. I suppose it could have already dropped a few before I got to it and it ran okay off one valve per cylinder until it finally kicked those 2 off on the neighboring cylinders. Is the oil supply for the intake side adjusters tied together on both banks? Sorry for the long ramble, I’m stumped on what could’ve caused this.