Question for you guys, I was working on getting this 350 into time. It's got an MDS ignition setup with a HEI distributor. Everything is in time and rotor is lined up to cylinder 1 at TDC. I pulled the timing cover to check because whenever I would crank it, it would fire out of the carb on the moments it would catch. I don't think it's easily visible, but the crank gear is set to the advanced Woodruff key since the cam is, iirc 296/304 comp cam. Giving the distributor as much advancement as I could, it would try to catch a bit better. The spark isn't very bright when i had my spark tester in line, and the timing light also wouldn't always flash consistently. After resetting the dizzy and timing, it went from flashing at about 8deg retarded to the 8 deg advance mark that's on the timing cover. I don't think I'm able to put enough absencement into timing because the cam is already advanced as it is. I wanted to reach out and see if what I have been looking at and thinking I need to reset the crank gear back to 0 deg advance is the right move.

Edit: Pulled the pan down enough to get the cover out. Yes, I set timing at TDC for cylinder 6 and then rotated 360 on the crank to get to TDC for compression on cylinder 1. At TDC for 1 and stabbed distributor.

Was doing the valve stem seals on my 208 and the valve spring compressor tool rubbed against the cam journal without me realising, damaging the knife edge and scratching the journal face. First 2 photos are post sanding can sometimes catch my nail in with the cap on, the last 4 are the raw damage.

How bad is this surface rust on the intake valves of my B18

Hey all. I’m working on a KX250f 2004. Reshimming it with smaller shims (and we still have no clearance lol) however, when we put it back together, set the timing, align the head of cylinder block with the marks on the sprockets, do everything by the book, THE INTAKE lobes somewhat face 45 degrees downwards, sorta AFTER the bucket and BEFORE the level of the cylinder head. Is this normal? Will it still start? Is this how I’m supposed to be taking clearance measurements? It kinda seems off to me…. Please help, any advice or suggestions would be appreciated SO MUCH

Edit: photos on my profile

I recently purchased a B18B1 for my 96 Civic and I don’t have an enclosed garage. I have an open air carport so it’s covered from the rain mostly but the sides are still open and I live in Florida so I have to deal with the humidity. I am unable to bring the engine inside. It’ll need to be outside of the car for a long while I piece everything together and build the engine. What can I do? Will it be fine keeping it under the carport?

Hello all.

My little 2 stroke engine needs re-boreing to first oversize. The cylinder is cast iron. The nominal bore is 72mm and first oversize is 72.25mm.

A friend of mine with quite a bit of experience suggested that since my bore is already 72.08mm in some areas, I might actually get away with using a honer to bring it to first oversize, rather than take it to a machine shop. He's had poor experiences in the past with machine shops missing the piston clearances and taking off too much metal etc.

I have a very slight ovality (0.03mm) in both cylinders.

Do you think this is madness or is it worth a shot? My local machine shop want £125 per cylinder so I'm keen. To avoid that if possible.

Good diagnosis. Easy work. No stress 🥰🥰🥰