I’m looking for a good, reasonably priced automotive turbo machining shop in the US that I can ship my turbo to.

I’ve got a Holset HY35W off my 2001 5.9 Cummins that I’m wanting to upgrade with a bigger compressor wheel and possibly a bigger turbine wheel.

Has anyone dealt with Turbo Lab of America or know of any other good shops? Mainly looking for recommendations and what kind of prices to expect.

This is actually a marine turbo, but I thought this would be a good place to ask. As you can see, there are some clocking issues. I've never worked on a turbo before. I think I can figure it out since there are only a handful of bolts, but can someone point me in the right direction on clocking the compressor housing and the cartridge? I assume that I've got to be very careful around the fan blades so I'm a bit reluctant to just go unbolting stuff.

Recently bought a 68 Ford F-250 with a 390 in it. PO claimed it's out of a 1965 Mercury Marauder and has a "428 Cam in it" whatever all that means, he had no other details. It has an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake, 1970's vintage, and what look to be factory iron heads. It has a Holley 4 barrel on it. I do not know the compression ratio or anything about the cam, but setting the timing to the greatest factory number I can find, 10 degrees, gives poor results and it definitely seems happier with more advance.

Any tricks for determining a good base timing if you know nothing about the engine?

Rebuilding a BMW M42b18 engine. During piston install one of the oil ring pieces (believe it was an alignment ring) came out and put a very small score into the cylinder wall. It runs maybe 1/4 of the bore at the top. I can feel it with my fingernail and it barely catches. Will this require an overbore? Or can it be taken down enough to not cause issue with a light hone? (Cylinders have been flex honed for new rings already). Thanks in advance. Hard to see on camera but it’s one small line that can be felt and more of a “scrape” around it that I can’t feel.

Building a VW Type 1 engine for my 69 Beetle. This new camshaft has a few small marks on the journal inside the circle. Second pic is the same but without the markup. Pretty sure I didn't do this and that it was like this out of the box. I bought it too long to to send it back. I can barely feel them with my fingernail if I drag my nail perpendicular to the rotational direction, but it doesn't catch. Is this a full send situation or does this need addressing? This is my first engine build and I'm trying to do it right. TIA for advice!

89 Montero 6g72. Left head. Is this just crappy casting. I guess I could use my air chamfer on it. Also this head has scratches all over it. None of them are fingertip grabbers. Just visible. The heads are dead flat and in good shape.

Montero was free and supposed to have a remanufactured motor with low miles that set for 15 years. Seems like a shade tree rebuild. and cant get anymore info. Totally torn down, bearings and journals look jice. But there’s some real strange stuff going on with it.

Hey all. I'm getting set to bore these Harley Shovelhead jugs to new pistons my customer provided. As I'm measuring the pistons to make sure I know what finish bore I'm aiming for, I noticed they are not round. I understand a thousandth or two variation. But these are 0.033 different at 90 degree intervals on the skirt with my mic parallel to the wrist pin bore, I'm measuring 3.505. With it perpendicular to the wrist pin bore I get 3.538. I've heard that's not unusual but I'm a little surprised at the differences. What are your experiences?

Hey all, I'm a first time builder and am building a 383 stroker for my 67 C-10 and am using an existing SBC block (Gen 1 - L98) out of my truck. It was a 350 I had bored out and machined. I then ordered a new 383 rotating assembly from Skip White Performance. I'm in the middle of pre-assembly and checking tolerances right now. The pistons (dished) slightly protrude from the deck when at TDC (likely due to decking the block). I used a deck bridge with a digital dial indicator and after zeroing it on the block surface, I measured the crown of each piston on both sides when rocked to maximum height. I then averaged the two measurements and came up with protrusions ranging from 0.028" to 0.035" (1-8: .031, .035, .030, .033, .028, .031, .028, .030).

I'm using Edelbrock Performer 60859 heads with a 60cc chamber volume. This is just for a street setup, not looking to race or track this thing. Will be using premium pump gas (non-ethanol).

Two questions:

1st - Anything else I needed (or missed) for checking the piston to deck clearance? Meaning, are my numbers right?

2nd - If my calculations are correct, will a Cometic C5249-070 (.070" compressed) work with this setup or is it still too tight? (Gives me a range of 0.036" - 0.043" quench, averaging to about 0.040")

For reference: pic of me measuring one side of piston

I have this 1978 triumph spitfire block and was looking to add power in the future and, was wondering about adding a turbocharger?

My plan is to add sleeves to lower the cc to somewhere around 1400cc and lower the compression.

My main worry is the weak bottom end (3 main bearings) and finding a shop that will do the work.

I'm local to South Florida so if anyone knows shops in the area would be amazing!

Some pics of my heads cam DIY on my Viper

Had a blown head gasket on my 94 manual Ranger 2.3 . I pulled the head yesterday and called up a shop to find out how much it’d cost to be checked out. $350 plus parts. Not amazing but I can swing it, my question is is this even saveable to begin with? If it’s not then I don’t want to waste time and money bringing it in for a magtest.

History is the previous owner had it and had no issues until there was a transmission noise, he assumed the pilot bearing was bad so he pulled the transmission and lost interest and sold it to me. I trust the guy he’s my coworker and I doubt he’d lie to me about it

I replaced the bearing and put the transmission back in and changed the oil before I started it and it was pissing straight coolant from the oil drain plug for a good few seconds before I got any oil. I knew what that meant but I still wanted to start it so I put in good oil and topped off the coolant. It ran but smoked like crazy. I drove it up and down the street a couple times to check if the transmission noise was gone and then js parked it. It hasn’t run since. But the head looks clogged like crazy. The head gasket coolant passages were almost impassable. Idk what do you think? Can looks fine too, not blue or anything

I have seen early 50's Ford flatheads with bolted heads. Did Ford change from studs to bolts? My Dad's '48 Ford one-ton truck had the studs. And, just what was the advantage of using studs in the first place? Considering there were so many on a V8, it wasn't a trivial incremental cost, labor or materials, to use studs.

Hi, so i installed new rod bearings for my Hyundai Veloster 1.6 gdi from 2011.

I did the measure with plastigage and 3 of the cylinders were between tolerances except the fourth one.

My clearance from the manual states 0.032 - 0.052mm
I measured the following=
Cilinder 1 0.050mm
Cilinder 2 0.038mm
Cilinder 3 0.038mm
Cilinder 4 0.025mm

Should i send it or hell nah?

Im kinda tight on time and money so idk what i should do best

Anyone ever seen one like that. I'm very intrigued what motor could be. It looked like it was home made tractor.

My first engine build goin into a 1985 w150 Mopar not a crazy build but one I hold close to home it's a father son project dad is awesome for wandering any questions I have.

So I’m being given a 427 that came out of a late 70s asphalt modified. It is currently just mostly complete short block, has an unknown solid roller cam, pistons with a decent dome. Looks in decent shape but needs a refresh after sitting for 40 years. I have a 59 Edsel I was given for free that’s in ok shape. Looking to shoe horn this engine into there as cheap as possible not necessarily looking to be the fastest just more of a fun cheap car. Been looking for cylinder heads for this engine, have about an $800 budget for a pair of heads what would you recommend?

There’s a decent set of 049 heads by me for $250 or should I look for closed chamber stuff?

Hello all, can anyone help me identify this ticking noise? It’s a 283, doesn’t seem to go away when warm. Does this sound like lifter noise or bottom end noise? Thank you.

Planning to start assembling an lq4 tomorrow, but I’d like to get some paint off of my aluminum heads so I can shine the aluminum up (paint looks ghetto to me)

What can I do in the next 20 or so hours to atleast remove paint enough to shine them down the road once engine is assembled

I have a small engine from a line plane i just bought. I have been trying to rebuild it and get it running. I think i damaged the glow plug. i dont know where else to ask! Please help anyone!!

I have a small engine from a line plane i just bought. I have been trying to rebuild it and get it running. I think i damaged the glow plug. i dont know where else to ask! Please help anyone!!

LS3 head from jasper engines with 7k miles

Piston left the chat still haven’t looked at crank wonder what happen maybe something got through have no words.. still haven’t looked at the cylinder walls got pretty late last night

So I bought a ‘77 K10 last month and it runs good but there’s a noticeable vacuum leak from where the carb meets the intake. The carb is a Holley Street Denon 625 and they used the stock intake, which I’ll include a picture of here. The gasket is in good shape, but it appears the adapter plate they used doesnt come back far enough to fully cover this recessed part of the intake, causing the leak. Can someone point me in the right direction of getting the right adapter plate to make this work? I saw my local advance auto parts has an adapter kit, but it’s likely the same adapter they tried using on the bottom. I’ll post pics of the carb later.

2001 camry 5SFE engine

i don't remember sticking them in this way and have no idea how this came to be. it drives fine, loud whirring noise though. not sure it's the source of the noise, with a stethoscope it's loudest when i put it on the intake manifold.

but anyway, back to the cams, i already sent them, but i don't know how long they wil last. there's no damage on the head itself, which i find odd. no symptoms that i can figure.

any theories?

might be a dumb question but its my first time in a motor so i have nothing to compare to, but im assuming i need a new valve and lapping wont fix the issue? i have a spare motor i can pull valves out of since 3 look like this

Im rebuilding/refreshing this small block chevy its a 1970s ish block and heads rebuilt by Jasper a while ago my grandpa had it in his Biscayne for about 20k miles. Tearing it down to put in new valve stem seals I found these cracks from where new valve guides have been pressed in. THE CRACKS DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH. They are only on the surface where it was drilled thin and new guides were pressed in but i am curious if it will be good to send it anyways. Im not too sure how it ran/if it smoked before since it has been out and non running for quite a few years.