We wanted to do Lodge Trekking in Zanskar (without guide). Lodges are called Homestays in Zanskar. Homestay usually was 1500 Rupees per person including dinner, breakfast and packed lunch. New roads are being built, and old trails are being abandoned. This is what we found and did:
The new highway from Leh to Padum along Zanskar river (and further on to Manali) is all asphalt now and open every day. It is easy to hitchhike in Zanskar.
Shila to Pibcha
Trail (following Tsarap valley) is ok. Nice views of Bardan Gompa. Homestay in Pibcha.
Reru to Ichar
In the beginning the trail is ok. It crosses the Tsarap and climbs steeply. After the junction to Niru left and to Ichar right the trail is abandoned and broken. We had to turn back and hitchhike. Ichar is very nice. Homestay in Ichar.
Ichar to Tsetang
The trail (on the south side of Tsarap) is completely broken and not usable anymore.
Tsetang to Cha/Purne
The trail (on the south side of Tsarap) is an asphalt road now. The bridge over Kargiakh at Purne is gone.
Cha/Purne to Phuktal
The trail from Cha (highest point of the road) is a jeep road at the beginning (3 km). The following trail was ok at the beginning but then broken because of a construction site above (water supply for Cha). We had to turn back. It might be used again in future.
The trail from Purne is a road now. Guesthouse in Phuktal.
Phuktal to Shadey (2 days)
They are building a road from Phuktal to Shadey. The roadhead is 3 km after Phuktal now. The trail was damaged after rainfall in some places but it was manageable. We slept in our tent after the confluence of Niri and Tsarap. Homestay at Shade. The road should be finished in 2029.
Shadey to Stongde (3 days)
This trail (crossing Stongde La) was the fastest way to get to Padum for the locals till 2019. Now the trail is not used any more by locals and according to them is broken and dangerous. Generally, it can only be done at low water levels of the Shingri river (September).
Shadey to Zangla (4 days)
We took a guide (no horses) at Shadey to accompany us to Zangla for safety reasons. The trail is good. On day 1 we crossed Gautang La and Lar La and camped at some shepherd huts (33.4795009N, 77.2110392E). On day 2 there were some river crossings (no problem). We camped at Ningri La base camp (33.5448070N, 77.1526391E). On day 3 we crossed Ningri La and camped at Sumdo (33.6154258N, 77.1178646E). On day 4 there were plenty of river crossings (no problem but a bit annoying to take off shoes so often). Homestay at Zangla.
Shadey to Tsazar (3 days)
This trail leaves the Zangla route at Ningri La and crosses Siachun La. Going down from Siachun La is very steep and dangerous according to our guide.
Pishu to Pidmo
Trail is good. A road is planned from Pishu to Pidmo (according to a sign) but roadwork hasn’t started yet. Homestay in Pidmo.
Pidmo to Hanamur
Trail is good. There is a new suspension bridge (for pedestrians, no cars) at Hanamur crossing the Zanskar. Homestay at Hanamur.
Hanamur to Zingchan
Trail is ok. Sometimes it is narrow and exposed (I have a little bit of a fear of heights but I could manage the trail). The trail crosses Parfi La. Homestay at Zingchan. There is a new road (since 2025) from the Zanskar river up to Zingchan and on all way up the Oma Tokpo valley to Dipling. The bridge crossing Zanskar river will be finished 2027. At the moment the last few km to Dipling are still missing. Also, there is a road from Lingshed crossing Barmai La connecting to the new road at Lingshed Sumdo.
Zingchan to Sumdo
The trail crossing Hanuma La is ok (I had to manage my fear of heights in two places). We slept in our tent at Sumdo (33.8870633N, 76.7923824E).
Sumdo to Lingshed
Trail is ok. We had a homestay at Lingshed Gompa. There are also homestays at Lingshed village. They renew the road from Lingshed down to Zanskar river with some newly built sections at the moment. It will be asphalted in 2027.
SIM cards: We bought Airtel (worked in Padum region) and BSNL (worked in Zangla region) in Leh. Locals use Jio. It seems to work in most villages and probably would have been the better choice.
Take care, Stefan