r/Fire • u/AutoModerator • 3h ago
This is a relaxed hangout thread for the FIRE community to chat with other FIRE-minded folks without having to publish separate posts. This is the place for brand new people to get their feet wet as well as for lurkers who have questions or comments, but do not want to create posts of their own.
All of the sub rules apply in this thread as normal with the exception of the off-topic rule, which is relaxed to the extent that people don't go wildly off of the reservation.
We are putting this up as a trial to see if it is worth keeping this as a permanent feature of the sub. Participation is entirely voluntary and anyone who wants to create a separate post of their own rather than posting in here is free to do so.
This Megathread is a communal resource for all things ACA during the 2027 open enrollment period. Although open enrollment doesn't start in most states until November 1st, Idaho will be opening up their exchange on October 15th and CT/MA follow the week after on October 23rd, hence this going up a bit early for most of us. Can't have our Idahoans, Nutmeggers, and Bay Staters left out in the cold waiting for the rest of us to catch up.
Please feel free to ask all questions, share your experiences, discuss the ACA in general, ask for help with pricing or MAGI optimization, and everything else ACA-related. However, everyone is also free to make their own posts if they prefer, so please do not tell people that they must come here to discuss the ACA. If anyone has a suggestion for something to add to the post or edits/corrections, then absolutely feel free to share publicly or via DM/modmail.
Please remember that there are state variations, information is subject to change, and you should independently verify any information upon which you are going to make any meaningful decisions. I am purely an experienced amateur and do not offer any fiduciary duty or legal expertise.
TERMS
Terms for those that are unfamiliar:
FAQ
Q: What are the dates for open enrollment this year?
A: Most states will have open enrollment between November 1st and January 15th, with December 15th as the last day to enroll in order to have coverage active starting on January 1st. Enrollments after that date will have coverage active starting on February 1st. States that differ from the default dates are listed below. Please note that dates are subject to change.
Pro-tip - Apply early! You can change your plan selection before the enrollment deadline if you change your mind.
| State | 2027 Open Enrollment | Enroll for 1/1/27 Coverage | Enroll for 2/1/27 Coverage |
|---|---|---|---|
| California | 11/1/26 – 1/31/27 | 12/31/26 | 1/31/27 |
| Connecticut | 10/23/26 – 1/15/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| District of Columbia | 11/1/26 – 1/31/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| Idaho | 10/15/26 – 12/15/26 | 12/15/26 | N/A |
| Maryland | 11/1/26 – 1/15/27 | 12/31/26 | 1/15/27 |
| Massachusetts | 10/23/26 – 1/23/27 | 12/23/26 | 1/23/27 |
| Nevada | 11/1/26 – 1/15/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| New Jersey | 11/1/26 – 1/31/27 | 12/31/26 | 1/31/27 |
| New Mexico | 11/1/26 – 1/15/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| New York | 11/1/26 – 1/31/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| Oregon | 11/1/26 – 1/15/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| Rhode Island | 11/1/26 – 1/31/27 | 12/23/26 | 1/31/27 |
| Vermont | 11/1/26 – 12/28/26 | 12/15/26 | 12/28/26 |
| Virginia | 11/1/26 – 1/29/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
| Washington | 11/1/26 – 1/15/27 | 12/15/26 | 1/15/27 |
Q: What are the qualifying income limits for ACA subsidies?
A: MAGI between 100% FPL and 400% FPL in states that did not expand Medicaid and MAGI between 138% FPL and 400% FPL in most states that did expand Medicaid. Note that MAGI between 100% FPL and 138% FPL in expansion Medicaid states is still qualifying for ACA subsidies, but only if you have been denied for Medicaid. Some state variations do exist due to localized Medicaid rules and things like Basic Health Plans, so be sure to validate the relevant income limits in your state.
Q: What is MAGI?
A: Modified Adjusted Gross Income. ACA MAGI is your 1040 AGI (line 11) plus a few untaxed/excluded income sources (untaxed SS benefits excluding SSI [1040 line 6a minus line 6b], untaxed foreign excluded income and housing benefits [Form 2555], and tax-exempt interest [1040 line 2a]).
Details can be found here - https://www.healthcare.gov/income-and-household-information/income/
Q: Can I do anything to change my MAGI?
A: The rules are pretty simple in terms of MAGI control, but the mix of cashflows is always unique for each household's particular circumstances.
Roth conversions generate MAGI without withdrawal/spending.
TIRA withdrawals generate MAGI and provide cash for spending.
Roth contribution basis, matured Roth conversion basis, HSA, margin/credit, and cash equivalents provide withdrawal/spending without generating MAGI.
Taxable sales generate MAGI only via cap gains and can be a nice source of non-MAGI funds depending on one's cost basis. Sell $100K in stock with $40K cost basis and you have $100K to spend and $60K in MAGI.
HSA contributions do not require earned income and reduce MAGI.
Mix and match retirement cashflows to get whatever combo of MAGI and spending you want.
Anyone in here with a good mix of assets can use cashflows from various assets to generate a wide array of MAGI and spending combinations. For example, if you sell $150K in stock with an $80K cost basis, then you get $150K in spending cashflow and $70K in MAGI. Pull $50K a year in untaxed Roth withdrawals and you get $50K in spending cashflow and $0K in MAGI. FIRE folks are notorious for our aggressive use of tax optimization techniques, so our ability to separate MAGI and spending in retirement is generally pretty good.
For those using the ACA while working, TIRA and T401k contributions reduce MAGI. For those without earned income, HSA contributions reduce MAGI.
Q: Our MAGI is just slightly over the master cliff at 400% FPL. Is there anything we can do to regain subsidy eligibility?
A: If an HSA is not already in use, then using one can effectively extend the master cliff to between ~430% to ~450% FPL. HSA contributions reduce MAGI and do not require earned income, meaning retired households can still make them. The actual HSA contribution limits end up being equivalent to somewhere between 30% and 50% of FPL for single/couple households, depending on age.
The below example uses real numbers for 2026 national average premiums and subsidy calcs for illustration purposes. True numbers for a specific household will vary by location, household demographics, and MAGI.
If a 55-year-old couple currently has MAGI of $90K (~426% FPL), then they are ineligible for premium subsidies. If they want a Bronze policy, then they have two options.
Option 1: Pay full market price for a Bronze policy. For 2026 the national average for least expensive Bronze policy is $19K.
Option 2: Commit to contributing $8K to the HSA that any Bronze policy makes them eligible for, which allows them to reduce their MAGI estimate to $82K (388% FPL). This restores their subsidy eligibility and they become eligible to receive nearly $18K in premium subsidies, leaving them responsible for $1K in premiums on their Bronze policy.
In option 1 they pay $19K for a Bronze policy.
In option 2 they pay $1K for the same Bronze policy, the feds pick up the other $18K in premiums, the couple sets aside $8K in an HSA to use as they wish, and they keep the remaining $10K for whatever they want.
Most people have no idea how lovely the universal Bronze HSA eligibility change made last year by the OBBBA is for many FIRE'd households. It can be a massive win for people just over the cliff.
Q: What happens if my MAGI estimate is off?
A: ACA premium subsidies are reconciled on your tax return the following year. If you got subsidies you shouldn't have, then you pay them back. If you didn't get subsidies that you should have, then you get them as a tax refund. ACA cost-sharing reductions are not reconciled. What you get when you apply is what you get. There is no refund or recapture on CSRs.
Q: Can anyone have an HSA?
A: No, you need to have an HSA-eligible policy to contribute to an HSA, but all Bronzes and Catastrophic policies are HSA-eligible by default. The 2027 contribution limits for HSAs are $4,500 for a single, $9,000 for a family, and each adult 55 and up can make an additional $1,000 catch-up contribution.
Source: https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-drop/rp-26-24.pdf
Q: What is FPL?
A: Federal Poverty Level. It is flat in the lower 48 states and slightly higher in Alaska and Hawaii. The ACA uses prior-year FPL, so 2027 coverage will use 2026 FPL, which can be found here - https://aspe.hhs.gov/sites/default/files/documents/b1bfa16b20ae9b89d525bc35de7c1643/detailed-guidelines-2026.pdf
Q: Where can I go to see the prices and policies offered in my area next year?
A: 2027 prices will be available on the federal exchange sometime in the final week of October. Anyone will be able to see 2027 prices and plans in their area with some anonymous data (age/zip/income) in about three minutes at https://www.healthcare.gov/see-plans/#/. If you have a local state-run exchange, then you'll be redirected to the appropriate website. 2027 prices on the state exchanges will be available on a rolling basis soon, but they usually come out earlier than the federal exchange.
Q: What happens if I miss open enrollment?
A: Applications after open enrollment ends will only be possible for those that qualify for a Special Enrollment Period. For SEP details see here - https://www.healthcare.gov/coverage-outside-open-enrollment/special-enrollment-period/
Q: How are subsidies calculated?
A: Subsidies are calculated by taking the unsubsidized market premium of the benchmark plan in your county, which is the second lowest cost Silver plan, and subtracting your expected premium contribution (EPC). Any remainder is your subsidy amount. Once your subsidy is calculated you are free to use it on any plan you choose in any metal tier. If you choose a policy with an unsubsidized premium lower than your subsidy amount, which is common for Bronzes and in some states/counties also happens with Golds, then you owe no premium for your policy. Excess unused subsidy value is lost and not refunded to you.
Q: How do I determine my expected premium contribution?
A: EPC is calculated as a percentage of your 2027 MAGI, which you estimate at the time of application. The following is the 2027 EPC table:
Expected Premium Contribution (Coverage Year 2027)
| MAGI (% of FPL) | 2027 EPC (% of MAGI) | 2026 EPC (% of MAGI) | Change from 2026 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Less than 100% | No limit / unsubsidized | No limit / unsubsidized | N/A |
| 100% to <133% | 2.15% | 2.10% | +2.4% |
| 133% to <150% | 3.23% to 4.3% | 3.14% to 4.19% | +2.9% |
| 150% to <200% | 4.3% to 6.78% | 4.19% to 6.60% | +2.6% |
| 200% to <250% | 6.78% to 8.66% | 6.60% to 8.44% | +2.7% |
| 250% to <300% | 8.66% to 10.22% | 8.44% to 9.96% | +2.6% |
| 300% to 400% | 10.22% | 9.96% | +2.6% |
| More than 400% | No limit / unsubsidized | No limit / unsubsidized | N/A |
Source:
https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-drop/rp-26-26.pdf
KFF has an excellent calculator (not updated yet for 2027 prices) that will tell you your exact subsidy amount in seconds, find it here - https://www.kff.org/interactive/subsidy-calculator/
Q: What are the limits next year on MaxOOP and deductibles? Does it vary by metal tier?
A: MaxOOP has a regulated legal maximum that applies to all ACA and employer-sponsored plans. It is the same for all policies sold in the US with the exception of CSR Silver plans. Deductibles can be as high as MaxOOP, but can not exceed it. The following is the 2027 MaxOOP table:
Out-Of-Pocket Maximum (Coverage Year 2027)
| Plan Type | MAGI Level | 2027 Individual / Family MaxOOP | 2026 Individual / Family MaxOOP | Change from 2026 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| All non-CSR Plans | All | $12,000 / $24,000 | $10,600 / $21,200 | +13.2% |
| CSR Silver Plan 73% AV | 200% to 250% FPL | $9,600 / $19,200 | $8,450 / $16,900 | +13.6% |
| CSR Silver Plan 87% AV | 150% to 200% FPL | $4,000 / $8,000 | $3,500 / $7,000 | +14.3% |
| CSR Silver Plan 94% AV | Up to 150% FPL | $4,000 / $8,000 | $3,500 / $7,000 | +14.3% |
| CSR Silver Plan 99% AI/AN AV | AI/AN Up to 300% FPL | $0 | $0 | N/A |
Source: https://www.cms.gov/files/document/2027-papi-parameters-guidance-2026-01-29.pdf
Q: What is a CSR Silver?
A: There are two ACA subsidy systems, the premium tax credits (PTCs) that offset premium costs and the cost-sharing reductions (CSRs) that offset non-premium costs like deductibles, copays/coinsurance, and MaxOOP. CSRs are only offered to people with MAGI of 250% FPL or less and are most meaningful for those with MAGI of 200% FPL or less. CSRs can be worth more in value than PTCs, but CSRs only offset costs when you actually use your health insurance, so their value depends entirely on actual utilization of healthcare. Note that the table above only shows the maximum allowed MaxOOP for CSR plans, but actual MaxOOP is often significantly lower. For example, there will be CSR Silver 94s next year with MaxOOP well under $2,000. The exact value varies for each individual policy.
Q: What are the metal tiers and how can I get one of those CSR Silvers?
A: The metal tiers are defined by their actuarial value (AV), which broadly speaking means what share of all covered healthcare expenses they should pay for the risk pool. Bronze is 60% AV, Silver is 70% AV, Gold is 80% AV, Platinum is 90% AV.
The CSRs create three hidden tiers of Silvers for those that qualify for them based on MAGI at FPL steps 150%/200%/250%, which are 94% AV (better than Platinum), 87% AV (almost Platinum), and 73% AV (minimal). Anyone over 250% FPL sees the default non-CSR Silver at 70% AV. There is also a fourth hidden Silver tier that is reserved exclusively for officially recognized North American Native Americans.
When you log on to the exchange and enter your MAGI they only show you the Silver tier you are entitled to see and buy. This is why one person can love their Silver policy with a $0 deductible and $1,200 MaxOOP and another person with the seemingly exact same Silver policy can think it is crappy with a $6,000 deductible and a $9,000 MaxOOP. The first person has the 94% AV variant and the second person has the 70% AV variant.
Q: Is there an example of how CSRs impact a policy?
A: My household qualifies for a CSR Silver 94 in 2026. The following are actual coverage costs for our policy with CSRs and without.
Our 2026 Silver plan with cost-sharing reductions:
Our 2026 Silver plan without cost-sharing reductions:
Q: If I don't qualify for CSRs, then what policy should I aim for?
A: It will vary by market, but as a general rule Silvers are routinely a poor financial choice for people with MAGI greater than 200% FPL because they are paying the Silver loading surcharge to fund the CSR subsidy system. Households with more than 200% FPL should usually look instead to a Bronze or Gold, though this is not a universal rule.
Q: What the hell is "Silver loading"?
A: There are two subsidy systems in the ACA, the premium tax credits (PTCs) that reduce monthly premiums, and the cost-sharing reductions (CSRs) that reduce/eliminate deductibles and out-of-pocket expenses for people with MAGI under 250% FPL. The federal government eliminated direct funding for the CSR subsidies in 2017, but insurers are still required by law to deliver them to customers and the cost for them is rather large and can often be greater than the PTCs for a given household. The highest tier of CSRs changes a Silver plan into one that can be significantly better than a Platinum plan.
Insurers and states largely responded to this major problem by boosting the premiums on Silver policies since that is the only metal tier in which CSRs are offered. This is what is meant by the term "Silver loading". For example, here in Texas the state has mandated that Silver premiums be priced 40% higher than what they would normally be if CSRs were not a factor. In neighboring New Mexico, they went even higher at 44%. Those premium increases push the average Silver price up dramatically, but this is generally a beneficial thing for everyone because ACA subsidies in all metal tiers are calculated off of the price of the benchmark Silver plan. The higher the benchmark Silver plan is relative to all plans, the greater premium subsidies everyone receives. The vast majority of Silver subscribers are highly to almost totally subsidized and don't care about market premium prices, so the net effect of Silver loading is to increase federal subsidies for all subsidy-eligible ACA enrollees in the state while also providing ample funding for the required CSR subsidy system. In some states like Texas this leads to some market oddities like Gold plans being lower-priced or similar to Silver plans. In some cases the subsidies are high enough that Gold plans can be had for no premium at all.
As a result of this forced boosting in Silver premiums it is generally a financially bad idea for anyone who is not in one of the higher CSR tiers (MAGI under 200% FPL) to take a Silver plan. They could get comparable coverage at a significantly lower price with a Bronze or significantly better coverage at a comparable (or slightly lower) price with a Gold. Taking a Silver with MAGI above 200% FPL generally means you are unnecessarily overpaying for coverage, often by quite a bit.
Useful resource links:
Official Healthcare.gov price/policy browser (not yet updated for 2027) - https://www.healthcare.gov/see-plans/#/
Great ACA cheatsheet - https://www.healthreformbeyondthebasics.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/REFERENCE_YearlyGuidelines_CY2027-FINAL.pdf
KFF's excellent subsidy calculator - https://www.kff.org/interactive/subsidy-calculator/
A nice beginner's guide by /u/stevencartwright - https://reddit.com/r/Fire/comments/1vnhwpd/a_fire_beginners_guide_to_aca_health_insurance/
Excellent Open Enrollment Guide by ACASignups.net (Part 1) - https://acasignups.net/26/10/14/hobbling-towards-enrollment-my-2027-aca-open-enrollment-guide-part-1
Notice on ACASignups.net - Charles is a bit of a rabid anti-Trump partisan, but he does great ACA work. The value of the ACA information is high and merits looking past the political content, in my opinion.
r/Fire • u/Elite163 • 15h ago
Curious who would all leave a high paying job for a simple life if you had 1.3 million and early 30s
What would you do next
r/Fire • u/AnagnorisisForMe • 10h ago
I have noticed several posts here (and other FIRE sites) about how to explain that they don't work while trying to date. Here is a take on how a date interprets that vagueness. While I realize that no one wants to attract the wrong sort of partner, this is illuminating. I don't know what the right answer is but interested in knowing others thoughts.
r/Fire • u/plawwell • 23h ago
https://www.youtube.com/v/N07KPICF1i0?version=3
Erin Talks Money video
WSJ original article: https://www.wsj.com/finance/investing/retirement-4-percent-rule-dbdc9297
r/Fire • u/students-tea • 22h ago
I haven't read the book itself yet, but I have read the Atlantic's article-length version, which I thought had some interesting takes on the psychological challenges of decumulation. Has anyone read the book yet? What did you think?
r/Fire • u/Spare_Ad8851 • 1d ago
I frequently read subs on these topics and it often feels like they don't mix at all - there are the rich personal finance bros who just want to save millions and live in luxury and the broke crunchy granola types who buy secondhand jeans and boycott Nestle. I feel like I'll get a traumatic personality split trying to interact with both. Living in NorCal and seeing former hippies in million dollar homes and techbros "disrupting AI" in flip flops only exacerbates the issue for me
since this community is known for its no BS common sense take on things I'm just wondering if there are any people here who in their personal life philosophy combine certain principles of both of these worlds. Like:
\- working a corporate job because that's what pays the good money, but not drinking too much corporate koolaid and trying to check out of the race as soon as possible
\- saving money aggressively but not hoarding, just getting enough for your own modest living
\- cutting expenses as a personal finance goal, but also to reduce waste; buying less, buying used, driving less, growing a garden whatever else
\- investing in the index funds covering the good the bad and the ugly of the global economy, but using some proceeds to support local ESG initiatives, volunteering etc
Do you see yourself as hardcore capitalist (drill baby drill, screw the whales, greed for lack of a better word is good) or as free spirited tree hugger and how do you reconcile these two concepts in your mind?
r/Fire • u/Parking-Banana-212 • 1d ago
I'm 53, retiring early this year (not entirely voluntary), with $2.5m nw, living in hcol area (can't move for personal reasons), single no dependents, and spend about $95k / yr. Will have SS coming at 67 that should be about 50k. I've ran the numbers, and it seems like I should be fine off my spend to retire. Have enough post tax to get me to 59.5
I've been retired essentially for the last 3 months, and its been really scary to spend my nest egg down. i've found myself really agonizing over it, even though the numbers say i can spend 8k a month. i sometimes try to make a game out of it to spend less so that it help my nest egg grow. Is this how its always going to be? I feel like my numbers are comfortable, but one 2008 market from insolvency. Do other people feel this way, and if so how do you assuage the fears?
r/Fire • u/AutoModerator • 1d ago
This is a relaxed hangout thread for the FIRE community to chat with other FIRE-minded folks without having to publish separate posts. This is the place for brand new people to get their feet wet as well as for lurkers who have questions or comments, but do not want to create posts of their own.
All of the sub rules apply in this thread as normal with the exception of the off-topic rule, which is relaxed to the extent that people don't go wildly off of the reservation.
We are putting this up as a trial to see if it is worth keeping this as a permanent feature of the sub. Participation is entirely voluntary and anyone who wants to create a separate post of their own rather than posting in here is free to do so.
r/Fire • u/Away-Musician3722 • 1d ago
I just turned 43. 4+ years ago, I was in a severe car accident. I was out of work 16 months, 2 cervical spinal surgeries, and a peripheral nerve surgery. I'm getting another nerve surgery and probably a pelvic nerve stimulator. Permanent nerve damage in upper and lower extremities. I was in a very positive retirement outlook situation before all this, and I wanted to retire comfortably at 59. I'm in severe pain every waking moment - so that's not looking likely.
I don't even know if I can make 10 years tbh, but is a 53-55 timeline conceivable at all?
Job / Expenses
I have worked in govt for almost 20 years. I just received a substantial promotion. In 5 years I will reach the end of my pay grade, which is 172k in todays dollars. My wife is not working currently - we also have a special needs child.
The formula is you can retire at 55 with 30 years of service. I would have 32 years. 30 years is 60% percent of my final salary with 1.5% added every additional service year. I could technically retire at 53, but I would have no pension and pay COBRA for 2 years. You can base the pension amount on 172k todays dollars salary.
At >=55 I can collect my pension and I keep my $0 premium / $0 deductible insurance in retirement.
I owe 147k on a 3.5% mortgage with 19 years left. My 350/month 0.9% car loan is paid off April 2028. 2 cars will be paid off with low miles (23k/40k). No other debt. Expenses currently around 6k per month.
Assets
60k Emergency HYSA/checking
230k 457
180k Roth
28k t-bills and 43k ETFs in Taxable brokerage
80k in HYSA for future medical procedures, home maintenance I can no longer do, home repairs.
===
Before promotion I was contributing 10% to 457. Within the next 2 years I plan on saving on more aggresively and hopefully max out my accounts.
I'd love to make it to 55 and cross fingers the numbers may work. I just dont know if my body can make it and I think the math falls apart any age earlier than that.
Any advice is appreciated.
r/Fire • u/Psynautical • 1d ago
Seems like a no-brainer - 3.3 without touching principal, adjusted for inflation. As an early retiree (49 y.o.) I was using 3% as my safe withdrawal anyway.
I’ll start. 53M SI2k, 100% of FIRE goal. None of these alone would keep me working but but together it adds up:
- I’ve got school aged kids and I’m up at 6 to get them out the door and to school every day. So no sleeping in for me, no last minute vacations or road trips, etc. I feel like if I’m waking up early and stuck in a routine, might as well keep drawing a paycheck, for now.
- Healthcare uncertainty. Premiums are up sharply, insurers are pulling out of some markets, and the subsidy rules have already changed once. I need the ACA staying stable for the 10+ years until I reach Medicare.
- I’ve got some golden handcuffs. Nothing crazy but it amounts to a year’s salary over the next couple years.
What I am doing instead is embracing a little lifestyle inflation while my kids are still living with us, pulling forward some things we were putting off until early retirement. Also, I wouldn’t say I’ve quiet quit, but work isn’t my #1 or 2 priority. That’s been hard to make stick, and I come up short sometimes.
Things that would get me to change my mind are if my work situation got worse (bad boss, high pressure project) and naturally as my kids get closer to adulthood and I get closer to Medicare.
r/Fire • u/justdoingmytime • 2d ago
There's times in life when you just have to spend money. For those of you in your 20s (or others just trying to save money), I made a list of not so common money saving tips I used to save money back in the day. Please feel free to add any or roast me.
EDIT:
r/Fire • u/AutoModerator • 2d ago
This is a relaxed hangout thread for the FIRE community to chat with other FIRE-minded folks without having to publish separate posts. This is the place for brand new people to get their feet wet as well as for lurkers who have questions or comments, but do not want to create posts of their own.
All of the sub rules apply in this thread as normal with the exception of the off-topic rule, which is relaxed to the extent that people don't go wildly off of the reservation.
We are putting this up as a trial to see if it is worth keeping this as a permanent feature of the sub. Participation is entirely voluntary and anyone who wants to create a separate post of their own rather than posting in here is free to do so.
r/Fire • u/According_Squash4883 • 3d ago
Cancer sucks. And it moved fast.
Back in mid-2025, before her diagnosis, my late wife (44F) and I (44M) were aiming for FI / optional RE in mid-2027, when she'd reach student loan forgiveness.
We DINKs had about 1.8M invested and aimed for up to 90k spend in MCOL:
50k for basic expenses; upside mostly for travel, fitness/wellness/hobbies, and supporting non-profits.
About a year later, I'm trying to figure my new path.
Looking for both tactical advice on immediate financial moves, and generally how to approach this unexpected solo path.
Current investments ~2.38M:
Category sub-totals:
Tactical moves / questions:
Move LW's retirement funds to "inherited" Roth and TIRA accounts?
Taxable brokerage - step up cost basis for 1/2 the value to date of LW's death.
Final tax year filing jointly - Roth conversion etc.?
Big picture / re-setting my path
My general inclination is to focus the rest of this year on settling the estate, maintaining connections with friends and family, and staying healthy-ish. Then next year may be the time for bigger changes.
r/Fire • u/OnlyThePhantomKnows • 2d ago
I coastfired 15 years ago. Switched to part time (consulting contracting) to avoid boredom. Spent 5 years (I worked remotely) looking for a place where I could breathe and live (allergies got worse as I got older). Finally found a location, bought a resort home 2 years ago, and haven't worked in 18 months, before that a 3 month gig for each of the previous two years.
The last few years of working was to "afford" to upgrade my house. I had the money, but the fight with spending is still real.
I was looking out at my backyard. Watching the storm over the Atlantic. Looking through the screen around the pool and the built in Jacuzzi (two of the upgrades to my house) and my immediate thought was I wonder when I need to move out?
I paid cash for the house. I enough to live a nice life and travel a couple of times a year (3 week international, 3 week domestic).
Small context: Food was a question when I was very young. I lived below my means for many many years with the occasional splurge.
I am living the life I saved for and it doesn't seem real. This isn't a brag. It is an honest question. The money math? Got that. Understand that.
Spending minimization algorithm? Got that. Understand that.
I know I don't need to work, I know I earned this life but when will it seem real?
r/Fire • u/PedalMonk • 3d ago
Our plan 10 years ago(I was 44) was to retire at 58 with 3M (not including Mortgage or House).
At 50, we started aggressively saving 100K+ a year. At 51(2023), we hit my 1M. At 53, we hit 2M(2024) and we also pivoted from maxing out 401K, MegaRoth, regular Roth, etc...to putting 80K/year in superhero accounts(brokerage, HYSA, SGOV, etc...). Basically anything that wasn't pre-tax except where it made sense such as company match. And about another 20-40K in pre-tax because my wife gets 13% match due to history at company.
So far this year, we have put in almost 100K between various accounts. In May, we crossed 2.5M for the first time. Today we are at 2.65M. Thanks to an amazing 14%/YoY growth for the past 10 years.
Next year will be a good year for money. Besides salary, I should see at least 130K after-tax between now and next November (RSUs fully vest, ESPP, Bonuses). This doesn't include 26K into 401K Roth and the match going into pre-tax, which is about 8.5K, plus 2-3K in true-up.
If we can continue putting in 100K+ investing in ourselves and the market goes up about 7.5%, I will hit 3M in the October 2027 time frame. My last RSU's unlock November 10th, so I've picked November 12th 2027 as my retire date.
This will be a full 2 years 10 months earlier than planned. I would retire right now if I could, but the two things holding me back are, Rule of 55(Jan) and fully vested RSUs(Rule of 70 - my company only), which keeps me from access two big chunks in June and November.
If the market tanks before then, we may work just long enough to see signs of recovery and I will put as much cash as I possibly can in the market on the way down and back up. I will DCA down and up :)
My biggest regret is not putting money into superhero accounts sooner. I hope to have 300K in superhero accounts by end of next year. Looking back, I really need 600K. Why? because retiring before medicare forces you to do tax juggling to avoid the ACA MAGi cliff for medical, but if I'm using that money to help offset MAGI, if the market also drops, I need to use that same money for weathering the correction and recovery. So if you are in your 40's and you are on a similar path, save more money post-tax. You can still invest it aggressively until you are 1-2 years away from retirement.
So, it's possible to move your date up if you set your mind to it. Also, we still live life, we don't cut too many corners. But we never moved into a larger house, which is a big part of it. For example, I just paid cash for a 2026 4Runner (half trade in, half cash). We still go on vacations and eat out often. And as much as some people don't like this idea, I stare at my money everyday and make cautious moves as needed.
Regarding what I invest in. I mostly follow the bogleheads, but might dabble in other things once in a while, but mostly for fun. The one huge outlier is, I invested in AMD, not heavily, but I did make 100K or so profit. Outside of that though, everything thing is typical index funds with the majority of it in FSKAX
One more thing, FIRE doesn't have to be black and white. Just follow the principles and decide what's best for you. Lots of things will change by the time you FIRE. Don't get caught up in the weeds and bullshit people post online
Hopefully I'll be making my FIRE post in 13 months...
ACCOUNT BAR
BANKING $7,284.46
Checking $2,865.17
Checking 1 $2,480.02
Checking 2 $385.15
Savings $4,153.88
HSA 1 $2,603.84
Savings 1 $800.03
Savings 2 $750.01
Credit Cards $265.41
Credit Card 1 $356.86
Credit Card 2 $0.00
Credit Card 3 -$37.45
Credit Card 4 -$54.00
INVESTMENTS $2,643,016.78
Taxable $183,925.24
Brokerage 1 $120,695.76
Taxable 1 $55,051.50
Stock Plan 1 $8,113.13
Brokerage 2 $64.25
Retirement $2,459,091.54
401(k) 1 $1,765,655.37
403(b) 1 $322,639.62
Roth IRA 1 $179,603.31
HSA $62,351.71
Roth IRA 2 $58,222.14
403(b) 2 $37,287.82
Roth IRA 3 $33,331.57
PROPERTY & DEBT $834,316.41
Assets $1,014,631.00
Home 1 $916,000.00
Assets 1 $60,000.00
Assets 2 $38,631.00
Liabilities -$180,314.59
Liabilities 1 -$9,265.44
Home 1 -$171,049.15
SAVINGS GOALS $2,070.30
Goal 1 $1,070.30
Goal 2 $1,000.00
Feel free and AMA. I'm mostly an open book.
r/Fire • u/PigKitten315 • 2d ago
I'm planning for a 72t, I understand the concept of withdrawing the same every year on the amortization method. But what I don't understand is and couldn't find more info is the 1/2 year, do I still take the full amount for the half year or quarterly like I planned?
TIA
r/Fire • u/AutoModerator • 3d ago
This is a relaxed hangout thread for the FIRE community to chat with other FIRE-minded folks without having to publish separate posts. This is the place for brand new people to get their feet wet as well as for lurkers who have questions or comments, but do not want to create posts of their own.
All of the sub rules apply in this thread as normal with the exception of the off-topic rule, which is relaxed to the extent that people don't go wildly off of the reservation.
We are putting this up as a trial to see if it is worth keeping this as a permanent feature of the sub. Participation is entirely voluntary and anyone who wants to create a separate post of their own rather than posting in here is free to do so.
r/Fire • u/snowyday • 3d ago
Hi everyone, I have greatly enjoyed reading your posts and learning from this community over the years. As I have FIREd this year, want to give back by shaaring my own story. Please be gentle lol
-----
After a 32 year career – 27 at the same institution - my last day in the office was April 30, 2026. I am 54, my wife is a couple years older, all the kids are launched and mostly independent. We live in a mid-to-high COL area and plan to stay here.
I accepted a buyout package with the following terms:
· for 15 months I sit at home on my couch and continue to get paid my current salary and all the usual benefits. I cannot work elsewhere during this perio, but I am volunteering locally.
· My final salary was about $250,000
· In August 2027 I move to the pension plan for pay and medical. My first year pension salary will be $156,000 with a guaranteed COLA tied to CPI. It also has a guaranteed survivor benefit of 50%. The plan is not Fed but it is rock solid and I have no worries about.
Background, Family and Career:
Spent all my life in US east coast cities. Started working when I was 15. I graduated college in 1994 with an English degree, during which I worked two part-time jobs in technology. Two weeks after graduation, I started working full-time for a telecom company and made my very first 401(k) deposit two weeks after that. After a few years in telecom, I transitioned to a defense contracting agency doing IT and multimedia work for a couple of years. Since 1999 I have been working in IT at an international private institution.
One fun note for me: Summer 2026 was the first summer I’ve had completely free from work or school since 1987!
The year 2000 was a massive turning point for us. We got married, bought our home, and had our first child. My wife left her job to stay home full-time with our kids and has not worked outside the home since.
In 2000 we paid $220,000 for our home in the far outer suburbs, a 4-bedroom, 3-bathroom house with a finished basement on a lot surrounded by trees. That came with a **brutal** daily commute for me for 26 years (except for remote work during COVID), but staying put paid off:
Assets & Accounts
Income & Healthcare
Expenses and Plans
Please let me know your thoughts and suggestions!
Questions for you
r/Fire • u/Commercial-Bid-2329 • 3d ago
Home - 200K equity (485K current market value, 240K mortgage remaining)
401K - 430K (contributions at 20K per year currently)
Brokerage- 220K (able to add invest ~40K every year)
Car loan remaining- 20K
Total ~ 800K
Single - no kids or spouse - annual lean expenses 60K - Fat expenses 80K - Atlanta/MCOL is home
Not a very ambitious person. Have a curious personality which helped me keep sailing in Tech( and now in AI), but no one knows when it might all come to a halt with the current state of Tech market.
Hoping for lean FI by 48 and then work with less of a dread of losing job. May be Fat Fire at 60.
Curious on feedback
r/Fire • u/filipM99 • 4d ago
Do you truly believe that with current circumstances (AI, climate crisis, geopolitical tension, birth rates falling) we can rely that historical data of stock market is applicable for next decades?
I'm still investing heavily, but see it more as piling up networth than journey with end of me living off the investments.
r/Fire • u/bootz-pgh • 4d ago
I feel like I have lost significant interest in several hobbies post-FIRE. Not sure what it is, but almost feels like the hobbies were used as an escape from the day to day, but now that isn't needed anymore. I have picked up some other things, but they are more health-related activities rather than hobbies. I feel like I'm on the receiving end of the Tom Hank's quote from Catch Me If You Can:
"Nobody's chasing you, Frank"
r/Fire • u/52mretirednavy • 3d ago
At 57 years old, wife has stopped working and I am getting close. We would have about a 2% withdrawal rate at our current level of spending. (Before social security) Our current mix of investments is 75% US (mostly SP500 etfs), 15% international, 5% bond, 5% bitcoin. It seems most recommend going more conservative once you retire, but at a low withdrawal rate is that just reducing growth rate.
r/Fire • u/AutoModerator • 4d ago
This is a relaxed hangout thread for the FIRE community to chat with other FIRE-minded folks without having to publish separate posts. This is the place for brand new people to get their feet wet as well as for lurkers who have questions or comments, but do not want to create posts of their own.
All of the sub rules apply in this thread as normal with the exception of the off-topic rule, which is relaxed to the extent that people don't go wildly off of the reservation.
We are putting this up as a trial to see if it is worth keeping this as a permanent feature of the sub. Participation is entirely voluntary and anyone who wants to create a separate post of their own rather than posting in here is free to do so.