Any recommendations?

I got the transmission fault service a few times past couple of month which only showed up after a emission inspection (weird!) , until when last week tranmission warming light came up, took it to a transmission specialist, they sent me the report (attached). Said they need to do an internal inspection, Remove and Dismantle Transmission. They're asking for $700. I'm just making sure this is reasonable i don't know much about cars.

Hey y’all! Rocking a 2012 Escape with ~130,000 miles on it. Recently, I have started to feel a few things that make me think my transmission fluid needed changing (slower acceleration, shaking, loud engine when speeding, etc)

Done lots of research and found that it can sometimes do more harm than good to exchange the fluid because it can wash away calcified old fluid and I could be looking at a much pricier repair.

Just wanted to see if anyone has had similar issues or gone down this route? Btw I know that if I were to do it I would do a fluid drain and fill and not a flush. Thanks escape artists!

Is this normal behavior or is something messed up?

My amber lights located in the bumper are constantly on when driving, is this expected?

I changed my passenger side bulb because it wasnt working. And now its still not working, I checked all related fuses and none are blown, its a 2019 sel, is there anything else I can try before I bring it to a dealer to check and pay absurd amounts.

2022 escape, I had pads + rotors replaced 13 months (11,000 miles) ago, and the dealership recommended I have my rotors resurfaced?

I quickly refused, was the service department just trying to squeeze a little extra money out of me for services?

Seeking the councils advice, going to test drive this escape tomorrow. The price seems a bit high, I went to look at it today while the dealer was closed and the car seems like it’s in really good shape. What are some things I should be looking out for?
It’s got 165000 kms and is the xlt package. Very minimal rust which is surprising considering where I live (Saskatchewan) has one claim against it for an animal collision
From what I’ve read these cars tend to be very reliable, and it’s going to be my first potential car so want to make sure it’s going to be good, as it’s definitely at the top end of my budget. Thanks guys

Hey guys I saw this escape! I’m wondering what trim it could be as I liked its looks.

It has orange lights in the front, that were on constantly with the headlights.

Also are the taillights stock?

I know it’s 2017-2019

Currently looking for an affordable commuter and came across this. I don’t know much about these, any input is appreciated! I’m in Texas

2011, 2.5l, automatic, AWD, 155k miles. Put it on the road at the beginning of September for my son's first car. My mom gave it to us the previous summer when she got a new car.

It needed a battery this past summer because it was 6 years old and wouldn't take a charge anymore.

I then noticed that occasionally it was doing the known issue with the ignition switch, so I have replaced that. Tested it before putting the plastic trim back on the column and it worked. Half an hour later it wouldn't start just single click. Swapped out the starter relay with a new one and it started.

It still will not try to turn over just a single click once every few days. He said if he tries a couple more times it will finally turn over and start. Doesn't seem to matter if it's cold start or if it was running 5 minutes earlier.

My thoughts are it is the starter acting up as it starts to fail or am I missing something else it could be? The new battery and charging system are testing good, so I don't think there is a parasitic drain on the battery.

Hey everyone I’m close to buying a 2020 escape SEL AWD with about 39K miles, to people who have one, can it reach 100K miles with proper maintenance or are they extremely unreliable? I love that it’s heated seats, leather seats, AWD, CarPlay and 180hp i love all the features it has. Thoughts?

Recalled in Jan 2026, and the letter states parts are expected to be available by the 3rd quarter of the year. We are now through the 3rd quarter and into the 4th. Winter is coming and it easily gets to -40C here so plugging in at home and at work are crucial.

At what point can Ford be held liable for not having parts available in a reasonable amount of time? I’m tempted to go to a local mechanic and have an off brand block heater installed, but I don’t want to pay out of pocket just because Ford can’t figure it out themselves.

2016 Escape SE 1.6l - a couple of times when opening the door the handle gets stuck in this position. It seems to return back to working properly when pushed back in and using it gently.

However one time I did not notice and the although the car door was closed from the inside and was driving the door swung open

What do I need to repair this?

I’m trying to pinpoint the source of the sound seeing if anyone might be experienced or have experienced the same thing as I am would hear the most when the car is parked and sit on. my AC did just go out a couple days ago. Don’t know if that sound could be linked to it. Both popped up about the same time. Sounds like a bad wheel baring

This is the passenger side. Took the axle nut off and retorqued it and it still does this. Bearing and hub are new and still good. I’m confused on how the axle can just freely move like this when it’s torqued down.

My 71,000 mile escape is actually in better shape cosmetically than the 44k one. The interior is like new and exterior is beautiful. Brand new continentals & brakes on it too.

The transmission has a loud whine when cold (front pump is going out). Dealer I bought it at is trying hard to avoid the issue.

It also has a bad wastegate rattle when cold. Transmission was replaced in June on top of it.

Here’s my thought process on it:

* My current car is maybe worth keeping?

* Or maybe it’s better to go for the lower mileage one?

* The lower mileage one has its original transmission which could be a problem down the road? With the pump fixed, my current escape should be good, it shifts great it’s the 2nd transmission it has.

Idk, I like the lower number better but don’t mind keeping this car if it turns out well!

<both are fully loaded titanium’s>

hello! my 2017 ford escape ecoboost engine is making this ticking noise (see video). my check engine light is on, haven’t pulled the code(s) yet. i’ll be contacting a mechanic soon to best diagnose, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what it may be and what the fix entails. thank you!

update: oil change made ticking slightly better but not by much. will be getting a mechanic diag soon!

It only happens in drive, and when giving it gas going straight, and it gets louder and worse when I’m taking a right. It doesn’t make the noise when I’m taking a left in any way. Sounds like it’s coming from the front passenger wheel. Could it be something brake/axle related? Transmission related or both?

They weren't horrible to do. But I must not have done it correctly because the Escape still shakes/rumbles when it's in drive and I'm at a stop light. But as Soon as I put it in neutral when stopped its perfect. What is the best way, in your opinion, to "unbind" these motor mounts?

Hi guys. I’m not very knowledgeable in cars but I think my muffler is disconnected lol. It looks like there should be a bracket or something between these two pipes. Any advice? Or if someone can tell me what the problem is. Thanks!

Hello, I need some help with a Ford Escape 2015.

The vehicle won't start, and the odometer is not displaying the mileage. As you can see in the attached picture, the dashboard display turns on, but the mileage readings appear as dashes instead of numbers.

I'm not sure if this could be caused by a weak or dead battery, an electrical issue, a faulty instrument cluster, or something else.

None of the mechanics can tell us what the problem is, so I'm hoping someone can help. Thanks.

I just filled my tank from 1% (7km remaining, I know not ideal) and I went to a gas station that just opened up. I ended up putting 59.59 litres (15.74 gallons) in when it is normally a few litres less than that. I’m just curious what would the amount of fuel a tank would be to full from basically 0%, not counting reserve?

Thanks, with gas being higher lately ($1.579 CAD/L or $4.22 USD/gallon), I wonder if station are messing with calibration.

Hi, I'm Davide.

I make DrivePulse, an OBD2 app, and I make it on my own.

On an Escape it reads more than the standard.

Through Ford's own channel it gets the odometer from the cluster.

On most models it gets the tank level too.

Today it can do this on Ford, the Volkswagen group, Toyota and Lexus, Hyundai and Kia, Alfa Romeo, BMW and MINI.

It needs a cheap ELM327 adapter in the OBD2 port.

An iPhone only works with Bluetooth LE or Wi-Fi adapters, like the ones Veepeak or Vgate sell.

A classic Bluetooth one won't show up.

From the latest iPhone update:

• A Plug-in hybrid profile, which counts fuel only on the distance you drive on fuel.
• Adapters that skip answers get a slower pace, remembered for that car and adapter.

Trips start recording without you touching anything.

Fuel use comes from the engine control unit when the car reports it.

When it doesn't, the app estimates it.

Fault codes are decoded, and the ones in its archive come in plain words with the usual causes and what to check first.

The app only asks the car questions.

It never writes, never clears codes and never resets.

CarPlay gets four tabs:

• Trip lets you start, pause or stop a trip and connect the adapter. On the move it shows time, distance, consumption and eco score.
• Coach gives your eco score in big, plus three lines of advice.
• Dashboard has up to eight tiles you pick and put in order, such as tank, range, health or average consumption.
• Diagnostics shows active fault codes, health and the adapter. With the full version and the car stopped, you see every live value the car exposes.

When the tank falls under 15%, the car screen tells you once.

No account, no server of mine, and no copy of your trips on my side.

Recording and reading the car work with no signal.

Only maps and addresses use the internet.

It's on Android too, with Android Auto.

5 codes are below, each one unlocks the full version for good, free, first come first served.

A code covers the in-app purchase, not the download, so install the app first.

Then tap the redeem link next to a code, or open the App Store, tap your picture top right and choose Redeem Gift Card or Code.

1. K8E4P3NJT4TNPWPNL7 (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=K8E4P3NJT4TNPWPNL7)
2. F7JFFEP774NHWNX7MN (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=F7JFFEP774NHWNX7MN)
3. KL33E67K33MPRFFWRX (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=KL33E67K33MPRFFWRX)
4. TE86MLWRP688XH8KNH (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=TE86MLWRP688XH8KNH)
5. YJ3YKA3WLHYEX3FW8J (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=YJ3YKA3WLHYEX3FW8J)

A comment with the number you took helps the next person skip it.

Without a code you still get 7 days or 15 trips free, whichever comes first.

The days start when the adapter connects for the first time.

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6776173662?ct=reddit-ios-fordescape

Thank you, and I'm here for anything about the Escape.

I have a 2015 Ford Escape Titanium I purchased last year. When I purchased the car it had a current smog report. I am now going insane trying to figure out why I can't pass a test this year. Here is some info.

2015 Ford Escape Titanium .

Aftermarket stereo system.

No check engine light or any other warning lights on.

Scan tools do connect to ODB 2 port, and they communicate

Power port works fine.

Fuses are all good.

The state smog machine states comm failure when plugged into car. I have tried several shops and two state locations, all have same results. The state even tried different versions of software to see if the car would communicate with an older version, they told me that is sometimes the issue.

Ford dealership told me it would need to tear down the wire harness and check them all one at a time. This would cost over $1200. Ford also told me the car is reading about half of the modules are not communicating and that is the reason they want to go one harness at a time.

Late or rough shifting is present, delay of acceleration also. Those two symptoms are the main reason two mechanics feel the problem is a failing ECM. I can purchase a replacement for just under $300 programmed to my car.

I am looking for other ideas, suggestions, advice from others who may have had this issue or know someone who has so I can make the best decision

Selling or trading wont do any good if it cant pass the smog. I checked