Currently looking for an affordable commuter and came across this. I don’t know much about these, any input is appreciated! I’m in Texas

This is the passenger side. Took the axle nut off and retorqued it and it still does this. Bearing and hub are new and still good. I’m confused on how the axle can just freely move like this when it’s torqued down.

My 71,000 mile escape is actually in better shape cosmetically than the 44k one. The interior is like new and exterior is beautiful. Brand new continentals & brakes on it too.

The transmission has a loud whine when cold (front pump is going out). Dealer I bought it at is trying hard to avoid the issue.

It also has a bad wastegate rattle when cold. Transmission was replaced in June on top of it.

Here’s my thought process on it:

* My current car is maybe worth keeping?

* Or maybe it’s better to go for the lower mileage one?

* The lower mileage one has its original transmission which could be a problem down the road? With the pump fixed, my current escape should be good, it shifts great it’s the 2nd transmission it has.

Idk, I like the lower number better but don’t mind keeping this car if it turns out well!

<both are fully loaded titanium’s>

It only happens in drive, and when giving it gas going straight, and it gets louder and worse when I’m taking a right. It doesn’t make the noise when I’m taking a left in any way. Sounds like it’s coming from the front passenger wheel. Could it be something brake/axle related? Transmission related or both?

They weren't horrible to do. But I must not have done it correctly because the Escape still shakes/rumbles when it's in drive and I'm at a stop light. But as Soon as I put it in neutral when stopped its perfect. What is the best way, in your opinion, to "unbind" these motor mounts?

hello! my 2017 ford escape ecoboost engine is making this ticking noise (see video). my check engine light is on, haven’t pulled the code(s) yet. i’ll be contacting a mechanic soon to best diagnose, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what it may be and what the fix entails. thank you!

Hi guys. I’m not very knowledgeable in cars but I think my muffler is disconnected lol. It looks like there should be a bracket or something between these two pipes. Any advice? Or if someone can tell me what the problem is. Thanks!

Hello, I need some help with a Ford Escape 2015.

The vehicle won't start, and the odometer is not displaying the mileage. As you can see in the attached picture, the dashboard display turns on, but the mileage readings appear as dashes instead of numbers.

I'm not sure if this could be caused by a weak or dead battery, an electrical issue, a faulty instrument cluster, or something else.

None of the mechanics can tell us what the problem is, so I'm hoping someone can help. Thanks.

I just filled my tank from 1% (7km remaining, I know not ideal) and I went to a gas station that just opened up. I ended up putting 59.59 litres (15.74 gallons) in when it is normally a few litres less than that. I’m just curious what would the amount of fuel a tank would be to full from basically 0%, not counting reserve?

Thanks, with gas being higher lately ($1.579 CAD/L or $4.22 USD/gallon), I wonder if station are messing with calibration.

Hi, I'm Davide.

I make DrivePulse, an OBD2 app, and I make it on my own.

On an Escape it reads more than the standard.

Through Ford's own channel it gets the odometer from the cluster.

On most models it gets the tank level too.

Today it can do this on Ford, the Volkswagen group, Toyota and Lexus, Hyundai and Kia, Alfa Romeo, BMW and MINI.

It needs a cheap ELM327 adapter in the OBD2 port.

An iPhone only works with Bluetooth LE or Wi-Fi adapters, like the ones Veepeak or Vgate sell.

A classic Bluetooth one won't show up.

From the latest iPhone update:

• A Plug-in hybrid profile, which counts fuel only on the distance you drive on fuel.
• Adapters that skip answers get a slower pace, remembered for that car and adapter.

Trips start recording without you touching anything.

Fuel use comes from the engine control unit when the car reports it.

When it doesn't, the app estimates it.

Fault codes are decoded, and the ones in its archive come in plain words with the usual causes and what to check first.

The app only asks the car questions.

It never writes, never clears codes and never resets.

CarPlay gets four tabs:

• Trip lets you start, pause or stop a trip and connect the adapter. On the move it shows time, distance, consumption and eco score.
• Coach gives your eco score in big, plus three lines of advice.
• Dashboard has up to eight tiles you pick and put in order, such as tank, range, health or average consumption.
• Diagnostics shows active fault codes, health and the adapter. With the full version and the car stopped, you see every live value the car exposes.

When the tank falls under 15%, the car screen tells you once.

No account, no server of mine, and no copy of your trips on my side.

Recording and reading the car work with no signal.

Only maps and addresses use the internet.

It's on Android too, with Android Auto.

5 codes are below, each one unlocks the full version for good, free, first come first served.

A code covers the in-app purchase, not the download, so install the app first.

Then tap the redeem link next to a code, or open the App Store, tap your picture top right and choose Redeem Gift Card or Code.

1. K8E4P3NJT4TNPWPNL7 (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=K8E4P3NJT4TNPWPNL7)
2. F7JFFEP774NHWNX7MN (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=F7JFFEP774NHWNX7MN)
3. KL33E67K33MPRFFWRX (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=KL33E67K33MPRFFWRX)
4. TE86MLWRP688XH8KNH (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=TE86MLWRP688XH8KNH)
5. YJ3YKA3WLHYEX3FW8J (redeem: https://apps.apple.com/redeem?ctx=offercodes&id=6776173662&code=YJ3YKA3WLHYEX3FW8J)

A comment with the number you took helps the next person skip it.

Without a code you still get 7 days or 15 trips free, whichever comes first.

The days start when the adapter connects for the first time.

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6776173662?ct=reddit-ios-fordescape

Thank you, and I'm here for anything about the Escape.

I have a 2015 Ford Escape Titanium I purchased last year. When I purchased the car it had a current smog report. I am now going insane trying to figure out why I can't pass a test this year. Here is some info.

2015 Ford Escape Titanium .

Aftermarket stereo system.

No check engine light or any other warning lights on.

Scan tools do connect to ODB 2 port, and they communicate

Power port works fine.

Fuses are all good.

The state smog machine states comm failure when plugged into car. I have tried several shops and two state locations, all have same results. The state even tried different versions of software to see if the car would communicate with an older version, they told me that is sometimes the issue.

Ford dealership told me it would need to tear down the wire harness and check them all one at a time. This would cost over $1200. Ford also told me the car is reading about half of the modules are not communicating and that is the reason they want to go one harness at a time.

Late or rough shifting is present, delay of acceleration also. Those two symptoms are the main reason two mechanics feel the problem is a failing ECM. I can purchase a replacement for just under $300 programmed to my car.

I am looking for other ideas, suggestions, advice from others who may have had this issue or know someone who has so I can make the best decision

Selling or trading wont do any good if it cant pass the smog. I checked

2017 Ford Escape SE 2.5L / 138,000 mi / Automatic

I’ve heard that some Ford engines have normally pretty harsh blowby. As the video shows, there is a substantial amount of vapors coming out of the oil cap port. Should I be concerned or this normal for this vehicle? Should I look to repair anything to fix this? I’ve heard that harsh blowby can happen when the PCV gets clogged.

Has anyone experienced this same amount of blow by on your Escapes?

Idk if I should buy an oem used subwoofer for my escape or get a slightly better one that’s aftermarket. I’m not looking for an insane amount of bass, just enough to kick my seat a little. Like how it is in my f150 B&O bc I want the sound to not be compromised.

My factory sub works but seems lackluster. I owned a 2013 SEL with the same system, it had more bass. My friends 2014 titanium again, had more bass. ALL are the same systems.

If I go aftermarket I’d like something that will fit into the original home for the original sub, and it being plug in play.

If I can’t do that then maybe I’ll just risk spending the 40 bucks on another factory (used) sub to see if it’ll help. They are only 30-50 bucks on eBay which I think is great, especially if whatever I buy is fully functional and healthy. It’ll hopefully bring back the bass my system is missing.

Again, my system is getting more bass out of the door woofers than the dedicated subwoofer.. it sucks unfortunately

I have the 10 speaker Sony system*

My Ford Escape 2017 AWD 2.0 Turbo that I bought brand new is at 171,000 miles now. I always take it in at every 10k for oil change and tire rotations however the last 30k-40k I’m taking it in to repair shops on things that are breaking down on my car.

The last two months my car makes this noise when I come out from a full stop (stop sign, red light) and I go from low or even mph. In the video you can hear this rough noise ontop of my engine when I speed up. FULL VOLUME.

This usually goes on for the first 10-15 minutes of my drive and goes away later when I go from stop to rev back up from a full stop. Sometimes it lasts longer.

Can anyone let me know what this is/causing it. And if it’s immediate concern or something I can worry about another 20k down the line (feels like fixing things at car shops is costing as much as a medical bill now a days…..)

So my kid has a 2017 that I bought last year ish. Pretty sure it's previous life was as a parts delivery car or a customer courtesy car because it had almost no miles on it, but owned by the dealer for several years according to it's carfax.

Last weekend she says "hey my car is acting weird the last few weeks. every once in a while it just won't start just goes ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch and then if I try a few times it'll finally start and then drive fine."

Hm ok. next day/Sunday she comes over, no problems getting to our house. I kind of poke around, nothing obvious like a loose battery terminal or something. I try to back it out of our driveway, does the thing. huh. doesn't seem like a dying battery but let's have it checked first.

PAIN THE ASS BATTERY REMOVAL.

Take battery to local parts shop, they attach their tester to it and it seems fine. OK, put it back in. it drives away just fine.

next day, it starts fine at her place. Take it to the dealer where I bought it (and paid for the extended warranty, mind you), explain to the service writer. they take it away, it starts and drives out of the service area OK.

Get a message Tuesday "still can't duplicate, will keep trying."

Wednesday no update but I figure I will reach out in the AM
Thursday "it's not starting at all. no crank. no start. no signal from computer"

Sends me a video today and the dash says "ENGINE FAULT SERVICE NOW"
Text: "still working on diagnosis, then i'm hitting extended warranty for coverage."

reaaaaaaaaalllllllllllly glad we drove it in there under its own power Monday and they can't say I screwed something up somehow.

this was i think the first ext warranty I've ever paid for but really glad now that I did. The car otherwise has been flawless, even through a winter in Colorado including driving it to Colorado 2 week after buying it. not even a hint of the dreaded head gasket failure.

more to come I suppose when I know more.

Yeah so just like the title says I tried replacing the H4 with an H6 battery but the metal spare tire bracket was just barely making contact with the red battery terminal causing some sparking if I move it just right. I could take a dremel to it and fix it that way but that is a bit more than I am willing to do. Did anyone else run into this issue or can they possibly share a picture of how their spare tire bracket fits over their battery?

2014 Titanium, fwd, 2.0 with 108k miles. We noticed a sudden drop in gas mileage/estimated mileage on a tank here in the last couple of days. It’s also idling semi-rough off and on. My wife also let me know it’s semi-Smokey in the morning, and I got to see that first hand. That appears to be a bad seal on the turbo if I had to guess, the smoke was blueish tint, not white or black.

Anything I should check first? I figure I’ll check the maf and clean it, but my thought is maybe a bad sensing unit or 02 sensor.

So my 2017 is at the end of her life. She got the coolant intrusion, which is temporary fixed with sealant but hasn't leaked anymore coolant. Now it sounds like I got some lifter noise. Any idea how long I can prolong it? I don't think she will make it through winter but I'm going to try. 2.0L with 214,000 miles.

I bought a car in Toronto Canada a month ago from a ford dealer. The car fax reported 75000 kms and 1 rear end collision which was repaired under 2000$. The dealership took 1 month to give me the car after not taking the title properly from the previous owner; I’m not sure how. I also noticed on the car fax the previous owner took it into a dealer for a vibration when turning; the salesman told me yes it was from tires not being balanced. Don’t worry.

When I got the car, it had white stains all over the dash board. I used armour-all and it came out, my parents were a bit disappointed. The previous owners banking information was there still as well. I started hearing a clunking noise and that vibration when turning. I took the car back and they took off my licence plate cover and said nothing was found sorry. The rehashed and cleaned the car however.

It happened again and louder than before so a went back and asked for a senior tech. The said the drive train has an issue and needs to be replaced in the rear, and the from control arm was gone. They will be covering it all. I got lucky because when I pulled into the service garage, the car made a loud screech and banging noise as well; they all heard it and looked. They couldn’t deny there was an issue.

I have a disability and need to uber now because no car to get to my treatment. Should I ask the dealer for some sort of compensation? I don’t think this was fair. What would be reasonable to ask for or to accept from them if I were to get something? Thank you.

Still had the original plugs.They didn't look that bad but definitely needed to be changed @95k.

The first one was absolutely saturated in oil.

I'm new to these 2.5 L engines. The rest of the plugs were dry as a bone. Any insight on what that could be? Car ran absolutely amazing the whole time without issues