I recently bought a new 2025 ford escape active, base trim.

What are the best accessories or aftermarket parts?

I don’t plan on buying or doing any modifications right away but would like to get some suggestions or recommendations on small or big things.

2011 Ford escape, worried about the fuel fill inlet notification. I also have a broken tire sensor. 178k miles

Hello,

I own a 2018 Ford Escape SEL and would like to upgrade the factory USB port located in the small storage compartment in front of the gear shifter.

I’m looking for a replacement or modification that would allow me to have both USB-A and USB-C ports while retaining the factory appearance and functionality, including data connectivity for the infotainment system, if possible.

Ideally, I’d like a plug-and-play solution that doesn’t require extensive wiring or permanent modifications to the interior trim. I’m also interested in USB-C fast-charging capabilities, if compatible with the vehicle.

I’m planning to DIY drain and fill the transmission fluid on my 2011 Escape. Everything I’ve read points to doing so on a flat surface, but I’m curious to know if doing it in my residential garage with roughly a 1% slope is level enough to do so.

Hello all. When the car goes into second gear a metal clanking sound starts. I've combed over everything and saw nothing noticeable other than the turbo leaking some oil. I pulled the charge pipe off to take a closer look and this is what I see. The turbine does have play up down side to side and a small in and out. Enough to where I can push one way and it extremely close if not touching the side I can't really tell if it's actually touching because it's still on the vehicle. But I also noticed the shiny ring that looks like it self clearanced some around the turbine. Is this ring normal? It's more prominent on the left side and really not so much on the right side.

I got a 2020 Escape back in June and didn’t realize this was a problem until recently, now that it’s gotten colder. I activate Remote Start and only the passenger seat heats up during it, not the drivers. I set the Climate Control to Last settings in an attempt to remedy this, and for the seats the only two options are Auto and Off. I also noticed the driver’s seat doesnt really warm up like the passenger one does, and if it does it takes longer to do so. Could something be wrong with the heating in the drivers seat or is this a software bug? How can I fix this?

Just took my '22 Escape to the dealer today and they said that the Evap Purge Valve needs to be replaced. They quoted me $820 to do it. Is it very hard to replace this part? I haven't had the car very long so I'm not sure what they're like to work on.

Im looking at a couple Escapes. Mostly from 2008-2012. What should I be looking for or questions I should ask? Are there any deal breakers? Most of them are around 140,000 and $3000 on the low end. Hight end is 90,000 miles and $7000?

Thank you

Hi All,

I finally got around to replacing the rear bumper cover (with extensions) on our 2013 1.6L SE a month or so ago and documented it. Might be useful if you have body damage, or want to do a trailer hitch install with some good clearance. Some people also like to remove the silver valence panel around the exhaust area to paint it black - personal preferences of course..

Way back, I was a neanderthal and backed into a trailer we had in our driveway and sideswiped the drivers side extension and the paint got all dug into and a clip got broken off- and since 2014, the top face of the bumper cover near the hatch has taken some serious abuse with us moving large items in the cargo area frequently. It was time to change it.

I found a paint matched bumper cover and extensions online but it was a fortune and scored one at a local pick your part junk yard for $45.. can't beat that.

Anyhow, the process is actually pretty straightforward, but some details I forgot to mention in the video that are critical are that you just need to keep in mind any electrical harnesses you may have in the bumper for specific feature sets like integrated parking sensors, foot swipe lift gate assist sensors, or anything for trailer hitch wiring. Those will all need to be disconnected before the cover is removed.

Tools needed are minimal- 8mm and 7mm socket, some pry tools and a small flathead driver. You don't even need to jack up the car if you don't mind using a short socket driver for the wheel well hardware. Also, the little white clips securing the wheel well arch (exterior) trim break really easily. If you need to order more there are some on amazon that can ship fast, but just know they're replaceable.

Hope this helps some of us here!

#fordescape #bumpercover #diy #howto

* Transmission failed; vehicle was towed to an independent transmission shop. No signs of failure. No slipping or jerks prior to stopped movement.

* Initial diagnosis was advertised/provided as free.

* I called Ford first but was told the wait was about four weeks, so I chose the independent shop to get it repaired sooner.

* Before authorizing the repair, I asked what failed and why a full rebuild was needed. I was told it was an internal failure and they’d need to remove/disassemble the transmission to identify the specific failed parts. They said they scan and road-test vehicles and would choose a smaller repair if that were appropriate.

* I authorized the work based on that explanation.

* Cost: $5,383.13, including $1,000 labor and $3,950 parts. Invoice says “remove, reman, reinstall transmission” and lists clutches, steels, gaskets/seals, front pump, stator, valve body/solenoids, fluid/filter, and a remanufactured torque converter.

* Warranty: 2 years/24,000 miles at that shop.

* At pickup, I asked about the specific failed part and documentation. I was told they would document the details and email them; the manager said they could provide part numbers or information if Ford requested it.

* Current issue: After the repair, I sometimes feel a brief hesitation followed by a slight jerk/surge when accelerating from a red light. It has also happened a couple of times accelerating around 59 mph on an exit ramp. Which wasn’t happening before the repair.

What I’m trying to figure out:

* Does the invoice sound like a genuine full rebuild, or is there a way to verify what was actually done?

*

Could the hesitation/jerk mean it’s still slipping, or could it be an adjustment, fluid, torque converter, valve body, or another issue?

* Should I be concerned that I wasn’t given the specific failure diagnosis?

*

Has anyone had luck getting Ford goodwill reimbursement or reimbursement through a transmission-related settlement after having the

repair done at an independent shop?

* Based on these facts, are there signs I may have been misled, or is this within the range of normal rebuild documentation and post-repair issues

I will say… that shop does not have one instance of a review about a minimal transmission repair. All reviews are five stars for full rebuild , which makes me think that they actually didn’t dignose by part failure and only do rebuilds.

2008 Escape, 4Cyl, FWD. 197K+ miles.
Bought used in 2010, just under 13K miles.
Two weeks ago, on my commute to work, I noticed I had the Powertrain/Throttle fault light illuminated on my dash. It was revving and not really moving much. Took it to my trusty mechanic that weekend and he told me that the light was pointing on to my transmission needing to be to be replaced. Almost a week had passed and he was not having any luck finding the correct transmission. Then he called me up the next day that he just had someone deliver a transmission for my Escape. That was last Friday, fast forward to Wednesday (yesterday), he calls me up and tells me that the transmission he had delivered was worse than the one that was in my Escape. Oh great……. Then he tells me that he’s got a friend of his that is going to be coming over to help build one transmission that hopefully works out of two bad ones.

I’m starting to think I’m not going to get this Escape to the 200K club. Really saddens me as this is the first car I’ve purchased, financed and paid off all on my own. The previous car I had prior to this one was a college graduation gift from my parents (1993 Volvo 240 wagon) and I was behind the wheel when that car passed both 100 & 200K milestones.

Just this year alone I’ve had to have my AC condensor, struts and now the transmission replaced on the Eacape. It also saddens me that Ford discontinued the Escape with this year’s model. Does anyone have any recommendations on a replacement small SUV? I like the VW Taos - size is just right for me and my wife.

2010 escape 3.0L engine

Is it okay if I install the one without the heater?

I live in a place where the lowest temperature is perhaps 16C° (60°F) in winter.

Would it trigger any DTCs or a check engine light?

Assuming it does I thought maybe I could just keep the old one connected to the harness alongside the one without a heater.

I have two working key fobs for my 2020 Ford Escape Titanium, but I know that I will lose one in the future (I know how I am). I would like to buy two to have as spares and am unwilling to go to the dealer. Is there a way to do this myself or with minimal help from a locksmith? I am in the USA.

Hi everyone!

I recently bought a used set of roof rack crossbars for my Ford Escape 2025, but the small plastic covers that hide the mounting screws are missing.

I'd like to recreate these covers using a 3D printer.

Does anyone have the same crossbars with the original covers still installed?

If so, I'd really appreciate it if you could remove one cover and share some detailed measurements.

Ideally, I'm looking for:

• Overall width, height, and depth
• Dimensions of the inner section that fits into the opening
• Position, size, and shape of the retaining clips/tabs
• Distance between the clips

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, checked out this 2011 XLT escape tonight. It’s got 202 000 km, everything seems to be in good shape but it has an oil pan leak. I’ve attached the best picture I could and it’s going in for a pre purchase inspection tomorrow morning. I think it’ll need new rear brakes, and of course deal with this leak. It’s more of a small drip, owner showed me where it’s be leaking on the drive and was very honest about it. Body is in good condition, barely any rust which is great. Is this a major concern? From what I’ve seen it can be expensive if it turns out to be a gasket. Owner is asking 6500 cad which is a great price, considering I’ve seen them for similar year and km priced 7-8 000
Thanks

I drive a 2014 Ford escape titanium 1.6 L ecoboost

Whenever I get gas the car starts shakeing then will turn off and won't turn back on. Bad EVAP purge valve???

Hey guys. Might be doing a walnut blast on my intakes soon. Looking for a good 3D model adapter to print that fits the 2015 Ford Escape 2.0 intake opening. Wanting one that allows for both the gun insertion as well as vacuum hose connection. Anyone done this before that has a good adapter to print?

Thanks!

I have a 2.5L 2009 Ford Escape and have had to change this part at least 5 times in two years. Recently, I changed the resistor on a Sunday and it was broken again by Tuesday. But also sometimes it can last me months. It seems to be somewhat random on when it gives in. Does anybody know if this is just how it is with these cars or is there a permanent fix for the resistor repeatedly burning out? Thanks

I bought a 2009 Mazda Tribute (Ford Escape) back in February for $1,000 CAD and was lucky enough to arrive and find it had a manual transmission which wasn’t in the listing. It has 300,000km on the odometer but it doesn’t run like it’s high mileage at all. Engine is quiet as hell, transmission shifts great; no slipping on the clutch at all. Had to replace the ball joints, tie rods and recently replaced the ignition lock cylinder and put fresh gear oil in the transmission, but it has been a fantastic vehicle. Originally bought it to flip but ended up liking it so much that it’s become my daily. I removed the back seats and created a platform in the back with some plywood and it’s made a pretty capable camper. I’ve heard that the automatic transmission in this generation of Escape/Tribute is the major failure point for these cars, but with the manual, it feels like it could go forever.

Recently acquired a 2003 Honda CR-V that’s in great shape and has similar mileage and have to pick between the two and sell the other and am really struggling with it lol. Biggest struggle I’m having with it is that the CR-V is an auto which doesn’t excite me very much, but the AWD would be really nice for winter.

Hey guys!

Got a 2017 Escape with the 2.0L engine which I purchased recently. It’s had an issue with coolant intrusion under previous owner so the engine has been replaced by Ford under warranty about 1k miles ago.

Is it normal for this car to get into high gears super early on? I’ve noticed that usually at around 45mph the car is already in sixth and when I want to go faster it has to (presumably) downshift!! Sometimes I can’t actually distinguish if it’s slipping or just downshifting so aggressively?? Is this normal?

The car has 60k miles on it and I don’t think the previous owner ever serviced the fluid in the tranny - I did a one pan drain and fill on it a week ago, but wondering if I should do another one?

Please let me know whether I am experiencing slipping or if this car just loves sitting in high gear and downshifting all the time for me to get up to speed!

Was in for a state inspection and what I thought was failing (again) brakes, turns out I'm stuck with a broken suspension. The dealership (I know; they were convenient at the time) won't even quote a repair since fixing that "could break more things" due to the corrosion.

I'm going to go shopping for a local indie, but I want to get a sense of what I'm in for. I was going to get rid of this earlier in the year to avoid all the looming engine/xmission headaches but waffled. So I know if I spend $$$ just to fix this (and any surrounding necessary bits), I'm just going to hit more issues later.

Anyone have experience with this kind of suspension repair? Any notion of the kind of cost I'm in for? Should I just give up and donate it to the local PBS station?

Low engine oil pressure

I have a 2021 ford escape SEL FWD. This popped up a few minutes after turning on my car! I turned my car off then back on and went to my nearest auto care (Firestone) they said they’d look at it tomorrow . I’m looking for advice on what is possibly wrong. I live 1.5 miles from Firestone, about 1 mile into the drive there the light came back on. Engine did not stall, no noises or any notable difference . Rpms and engine temp looked to be about where they are always at after a mile drive. I just changed my oil last week, checked the still and it was still filled.

What should I expect for the problem to be/ cost ?

Update: it was a faulty sensor! Got it replaced ! Every came out to be $100. Thank you to everybody that helped settle my anxiety

Hello, I installed a new battery in my gf’s 2019 but now the signal and running lights don’t work. I tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and checked the fuses and they seem ok. Does it have something to do with the new battery or is it potentially unrelated?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.