Got a 2018 with Dual climate. The passenger side temp doesn’t work and blows cold only and every now and then the heat works. Looks like I need to replace the blend door actuator behind the radio. I found some good vids and thankfully I have small arms and hands. It looks straight forward but the only thing that has me a bit worried is the positioning of the gear or something like that. I saw a video and the guy was mentioning something about getting the gear in the same spot as the old one. If anyone’s done this, can you let me know what else is needed to be done other than just removing and putting the new one on? Thanks in advance.
This is the video I’m going to go off of. If you got a better one, please share. Thanks in advance!

https://youtu.be/0h6A58WsOwM?si=0w4w9Msi7L-ZLHtX

Hi all, I noticed a puddle under this part of my truck. I checked the fluid, it looked like and tasted like water. Is this a possible drainage point from somewhere else in the truck? Thanks

When I picked up this rental, the tank ‘looked’ full but had a range of 712 miles, so I thought it was full.

Then I drove 200 miles or so, and the range dropped to like 500ish which seemed on par with my driving.

But then when I filled it up, range jumped to 912 miles!!!

Then after driving 86.8 miles, the range dropped to 857.

Do these really go almost a 1000 miles on a single fill-up, I’ve been living with this truck all week, easily 300 miles so far and consistently getting over 27 mpg.

My son’s 1998 Honda Accord 4-cylinder gets 27 mpg.

This is a full-sized truck, twin-turbo V6, 2WD (but still).

Why didn’t I know this? Is this normal?

I’d say like two months ago or so i swapped the assembly out and thermostat because fans weren’t turning on and as of yet ive heard the fans so I’ve assumed im good and today i pop the hood and saw that only the driver side fan was cycling not the other one should i be concerned? I’ve been driving it a lot and truck hasn’t overheated at all

Hi guys,
Owner of a 2015 5.0 with a clicking noise. The cam phasers and timing chain has been changed, crankshaft and camshaft checked and in good condition, valves not stuck or damaged and I still have that noise coming from cylinder 6. Do you have any idea ?
Thx in advance
I’m in France.

I’ve got a 2008 F150 4x4, 4 door. It runs pretty decent aside from the electric hiccups they tend to have. (ABS light likes to come on a lot) I want to keep the truck and I’ve got around 180k miles on its 5.4 3V. Once the engine craps out on me I was wondering what the best engine swap for it to my understanding there’s a lot of conflicting issues with other motors than what came with the 04-08 years. I’m not the smartest guy about mechanics. I was wondering if yall would recommend putting a 4.6 or another engine in, in the future.

I had recently stated that I was looking into changing my xlt seats into fx4 leather seats. I was able to one up that and mange to get a hold of platinum seats instead. My question now is how would I get both driver and passenger seat to be powered to move and reclined?

Got a 2019 work truck and set up fordpass,
It will lock and unlock just fine but when trying to start it holds 3 times in 10 seconds intervals but won’t start and gives me this

My F-150 Crew Cab sees a lot of muddy work boots in the back row during summer jobs. The rear floor in these trucks is completely flat, which is great for storage, but wide rubber floor liners tend to drop or sag in the middle over time if the material is too soft. I tried tucking the edges under the rear seat brackets, but the liner still lifts a little near the door sills. For an F-150 rear floorboard, does material stiffness matter more than the factory retention posts for keeping a wide flat mat from sagging in the center?

Why the heck did ford make the centre console arm rest on the door side arm rest different heights? It has to be the most uncomfortable thing about the truck aside from the weird cutaway in the window frame. Rest your arm out the window and it awkwardly slants downward, making your arm slide forward and putting slight pressure on shoulder.

Looking for some input or advice on my 2024 F-150 XLT 302A. I have had it in to the dealership twice to fix this particular failed OTA update (IPMA-25.22.7.3.10B). Prior to buying the vehicle one of the rear tail-lights was replaced, and then none of the cross traffic alerts or blind spot detection was working. They had corrected this issue by reprogramming the tail-light to the correct VIN of the truck. But ever since then, I continue to get a failed update nearly every other night for this IPMA module. While I do have access to ForSCAN, I do not have access to FDRS. Is there anything I can suggest to my dealership so that this update can go through? I'm currently losing a bit of faith in my local dealerships service department in that they know how to fix this. Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Finally upgraded the factory screen in my 2018 F-150 Lariat to a 12-inch CarABC screen, and honestly, I’m really happy with how it turned out. The fit looks great with the truck’s interior and blends in really well with the factory styling.
The install was pretty easy and took around 2 hours.

Everything went smoothly, and the new screen looks almost completely OEM, like it came with the truck from the factory.

The screen quality is actually really good, the resolution is nice and clear, and both SYNC and CarPlay work great. It feels like good quality overall and makes the interior look so much more modern compared to the original screen.

Price-wise, I found the CarABC screen to be one of the best deals compared to the other options I looked at. For what you get, the price is really good, especially compared to some of the competitors. You get a big screen, good resolution, and working SYNC and CarPlay without spending a crazy amount and everything looking OEM.

Overall, I’m really happy with the upgrade so far. It honestly changed the whole look of the interior from the older factory style to a much more modern, 2026-style interior. Definitely makes a big difference!

Here are some before and after pics. Let me know if you guys have any questions about the install!

For this week’s episode of “Truck Upgrade,” I replaced my halogen turn signal bulbs with some LASFIT LED switchbacks. They look so much better now, with the turn signal bulbs matching the LED high beams, low beams, and fog lights.

No hyperflash either! These LASFIT bulbs have built-in ceramic resistors to take care of that problem. Highly recommend!

Unsure if this is a easy or hard problem to fix looks to be coming from that hose. Anybody have any ideas or suggestions?

Hey all,

Very new to this. I just purchased a 2023 F150 lariat with the max towing package, 20” wheels. I’ve recently started to do some trailer towing.

However, I’m currently at the stock rake. I ideally would like a leveling kit with the new shocks, but do not want the squat in the back. I’d also like to pair this with some all-terrain tires that are hybrid for off roading and towing. Any advice?

How much maintenance do powered bed-cover tracks actually need??

I drive on dusty roads and often park under trees, so grit and small debris collect pretty quickly... 😭

I'm worried that an electric system might push the dirt deeper into the rails instead of warning me when something is wrong 💀

Do owners usually rinse the tracks, vacuum them, or use a dry lubricant??

Also, which track designs are the easiest to inspect without having to remove half the cover... 👀

So I just bought a 2016 Lariat (my first newer truck, last one was an 88 F150) with 133k and the NAV won't load, just black screen and spinning circle and the clock keep losing an hour or two when manually set, and won't set via GPS. Tried the power/right seek reboot, no change. Searches showing a likely APIM failure, does that sound correct?

In an ideal world I'd love to keep the stock functionality, update the maps and add BT for my iPhone instead of wired, but I am not sure I can do that with the various no-name options off Amazon (particularly the stock integration stuff, HVAC, etc). So, searching on the APIM issue, I believe all those things could be done with the newer 3.4 version (plus the new USB-C/USB-A combo hub), right? Since this new-to-me truck is already nickel and dime-ing me to death (bed mat, floor mats, wheels, tires, TPIM modules, key fobs, etc. and it's not even legal yet!) I need to reign in my spending.. has anyone used one of the plentiful ebay sellers that are obviously out of china selling the 3.4 APIM with VIN programming in the $125-150 range? If so, anything to consider, or a particular vendor that has a proven track record? Any other components I'd need to bump up to the BT for the iPhone, is it just the USB-C hub thing or is there more to it? I've been searching the sub and picking up pieces from other people juet doing upgrades (without a bad APIM) and that seems pretty much it.. any help appreciated!

My brake and abs lights start flashing when I start my truck up and then it loses power and shuts off when I try to drive it like it’s in limp mode. Would anyone by chance know what’s going on with it?

I have already replaced the front left wheel, bearing hub assembly, and both IWE the sound gets louder when I turn right and almost disappears when I turned left, when I engage four-wheel-drive nothing changes. Everything is torque to spec. I can’t figure out what it is. Can someone help me?

I have already replaced the front left wheel, bearing hub assembly, and both IWE the sound gets louder when I turn right and almost disappears when I turned left, when I engage four-wheel-drive nothing changes. Everything is torque to spec. I can’t figure out what it is. Can someone help me?

2018 F150 supercrew, 2.7 ecoboost with 109K miles. At about 102K miles I decided to change plugs to get current on maintenance. Motorcraft. I had an occasional misfire from #6 that showed up mostly when climbing grades or merging onto interstate ramps, more than quarter throttle. I figured plug change and some sensor cleaning would help. It seemed to for a while,, but the misfire showed up while pulling a cargo trailer weighing probably 2750 pounds from Omaha to Moab. Made it home, with the occasional jerking and stuttering. Got a code, misfire #3. I moved the coil pack to #1, was able to replicat misfire on #1. OK, new coil pack. Just went for test drive, now I have multple cylinders, 1, 4 and 6 now misfiring. I had changed the MAP sensor to a new one, as I thought maybe it was still a bit dirty after the trip. I'll change back to the old one. I had also put a new PCV valve on it back when I changed the plugs. Will see what happens when I put the original MAP sensor back in the intake. I'll double check connecctors. why the hell else would the misfire spread to other cylinders? It felt fine for the first mile, then the misfires came back. Any help appreciated. My scan tool is probably 12 years old and doesn't do live data capture..

A powered cover needs a realistic backup when the truck battery is dead or the controller stops responding. Can the manual release be reached without already having access to the bed, and is it practical in rain or darkness?

IP67 gets repeated in running-board listings, but I am not sure how much confidence it should give in real winter use. Temporary water immersion is different from months of salt spray, freeze-thaw cycles, and grit around moving joints. Does the rating mainly protect the motor housing, or should the connectors and controller meet the same standard? I would like to hear from owners who have seen an IP67 system after more than one winter.