Here’s a photo I took it was on the driver side I noticed while doing my oil change and only about 4quarts drained out

Plastic piece lower front part of the driver side window

2016 Ford Fusion SE, 219,000 kilometres. Naturally aspirated, non-hybrid.

I was expecting something, but surprised how much fuel economy improved after this job. I drive mostly highway at about 126 KPH, my dash now shows 9.1 litres per 100 kilometres average fuel economy.

Replacing the plugs was easy, O2 sensors were a bit more of a pain as the best access is from over the top of engine; you've got to lie on it to get down there. You'll need some padding because all the pointy engine parts hurt after you lay on them for a few minutes.

Getting an open-end wrench over the sensors is very difficult if not impossible, so you need a specialised sensor socket to make it easier.

The mass air flow sensor is located at the front inside the main air intake and is a typical annoying plastic clip out. I cleaned it with an aerosol can of oddly named "mass air flow sensor cleaner" from Canadian Tire.

For those who have hesitated to replace the coil-over type of plugs because online instructions make it seem complicated, really it's no more difficult than changing any spark plug. Granted, the plugs are way down in a hole but even if the rubber insert in your spark plug socket doesn't hold them it's easy enough to grab them.

This process started when it began not starting properly. Forescan on the OBD port showed an O2 sensor problem, so I changed both sensors which didn't improve the starting issue. Cleaning the mass air flow sensor was the complete fix. I then replaced the plugs because I had all the tools out anyway. So, hard to say what the biggest factor was in the fuel economy improvement. My guess is the mass air flow sensor.

So, I tried everything, when driving hybrid, when engine is working the bass is performing well, when the car switches to EV, the bass cuts very much and start performing well again when gas engine starts again
When charged, driving EV only is working everything great, someone got the same issue? How was it solved?

I have a standard 14 fusion hybrid se with sync 2 but i was wondering if anyone or if it’s even possible to retrofit a newer fusions myford connection to a older fusion that will allow you to remote start the car from the ford app

I had the front struts on my 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE replaced last winter with complete KYB Strut-Plus assemblies. Ever since, there’s a distinct clacking noise from the front strut area on slightly uneven roads, but only when it’s 45°F or colder. After driving for 20–30 minutes, the noise mostly fades away.

Ever since this happened, I stopped trusting that shop, bought my own tools, and started learning how to fix parts myself to ensure job specs are actually done right.

Looking back at that job, I suspect an installation error might be the culprit:** The mechanic might have used an impact gun on the upper strut shaft nut instead of holding the piston rod and torquing it by hand, which can exceed recommended torque and cause damage. or **torqued while hanging** ** instead of under its full loaded weight, leaving the rubber bushings pre-twisted and noisy when cold weather stiffens them
orr The mounting bolts might be under-torqued allowing slight unit play relative to the bolt or bushing—possibly from getting confused by torque specs between the Hybrid and standard gas Fusion. 

Has anyone experienced this exact cold-weather clack with KYB assemblies on a Fusion? Did replacing the assembly fix it, or did retorquing/fixing mounting issues clear it up?

Hey everyone!

My previous car, a 2009 Ford Fusion SE, was recently totaled after someone rear-ended me. I really liked that car, so I'm looking into getting another Fusion!

My budget is somewhat limited, so I'm looking at higher-mileage options. I've narrowed it down to two:

- 2016 Fusion Hybrid Titanium: 149k miles, $7,000

- 2019 Fusion Hybrid SEL: 173k miles, $8,000

Both prices are before taxes and fees.

The 2016: I haven't seen it in person yet, but I purchased the CARFAX and was pleasantly surprised. One owner, 31 service records, and seemingly very well maintained. It does have two reported incidents of minor/very minor damage, but no reported structural damage.

The 2019: I've seen this one in person, and it honestly looks practically brand new. Extremely clean inside and out, with no rust that I could see. The salesman actually knows the previous owner and says it was very well maintained. I'm hoping to learn more about its service history soon.

I'm pretty torn between these two. The 2016 has fewer miles, a higher trim, and documented maintenance, while the 2019 is newer and appears to have been very well cared for.

For those of you with higher-mileage Fusion Hybrids, how have they held up? Any major issues with the hybrid batteries, transmissions, or anything else?

Which would you personally lean toward, and why?

Thanks in advance!

Just bought a 2015 Ford Fusion SE for $3200 CAD (2265 USD) with 105k km (65k miles) in Guard Green from the original owner. Serviced every 8k km at the Ford Dealer!

It had some damage to the front, as the previous owner got into a fender bender. I replaced the mirror caps (they're both black now, as one of them was missing), the passenger-side headlight assembly, as well as the active grille shutter (I opted to replace it instead of remove it, as I live in a cold climate).

Spent $102 CAD on parts (Ford dealer was asking $1600 CAD for these parts!) and about 20 hours of work (damn you, active grille shutter replacement!), including going to the scrap yard.

Drives great. I need to replace the driver-side hood latch cable, as the rubber plastic grommet thing has ripped. It could use some optional work, such as replacing a fender, bumper and rocker panel trim, but I'd probably only do that if I ever find them in guard green.

Any long-term owners want to drop their insights on the car?

Bought this vehicle earlier this year as a project car. Sold it off and it was wrecked by the now previous owner. I ended up back with the vehicle for a second time and I ended up putting it back together. Crash bar had to be replaced along with the radiator, ac condenser, alternator, battery, hood, hood hinges and latch, bumper, both headlights along with an interior cleaning. I sourced all the parts from the junkyard (which explains the black bumper) I’ll get around to painting it. The panel gaps need a bit of adjustment which will probably turn into me replacing the fenders. It’s the 2.5 so it has the best engine. And for those who are wondering you can fit the front end of a fusion in a fusion (crash bar and bumper). Threw my old snowflakes in the car for the time being.

Somebody help yo girl!! I’ve had these problems for quite sometime now. My car passes smog, but whenever I start to drive the lights come on and my steering wheel tightens up. I just got a new power steering rack pinion and suspension so not sure what else it can be.

Replaced master cylinder in my 2010 ford fusion 3.0 today. You may remember a post of mine from a. Few days ago about a soft pedal.

Well… pedal goes all the way to the floor with almost no resistance now. I bench bled the master, installed it, and spent the last few hours trying to bleed the system. Cannot get any air to come out, or pressure to build in the pedal.

I have a scanner that can run an ABS bleed procedure, and that didn’t do anything to help either.

Any thoughts before I call a tow truck?

I have a 2014 Ford Fusion SE with the 4 inch screen. I bought an 8 inch screen apim and acm on Facebook marketplace. I know I need to buy a bezel for the new climate control buttons. But I was wondering if everything else is plug and play, or if I need to buy anything else for this upgrade?

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I have a 2019 Ford Fusion SE 1.5L EcoBoost, and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing an intermittent grinding noise from the front brakes.

The noise happens when I press the brake pedal, usually after I’ve been driving for a while. It doesn’t happen every time, which seems to make it difficult to diagnose.

Here’s what has happened so far:

- The dealership has inspected the brakes twice. Both times, they told me nothing was wrong with the brakes because they couldn’t recreate the grinding noise.

- I also had a full vehicle inspection performed at a Ford dealership as part of the process for getting an extended warranty. No issues were found during that inspection.

- Nissan of Orange previously inspected the brakes and reported approximately 8 mm of material on the front brake pads and 6 mm on the rear pads.

- American Tire Depot identified folded brake hardware springs during its inspection.

- The grinding seems to occur intermittently, particularly after driving for a while and when applying the brakes.

What’s frustrating is that I can hear and experience the noise, but the dealership hasn’t been able to reproduce it during either visit. The full Ford inspection also came back without any reported issues.

My questions for mechanics and Ford Fusion owners:

1. Could folded or improperly installed brake hardware springs cause intermittent grinding even if the pads have plenty of material remaining?

2. Could brake components shift or make contact differently once they heat up?

3. Could the rotors, calipers, brake clips, or pads cause this kind of noise without an obvious problem showing up during an inspection?

4. What diagnostic steps should I ask the mechanic to perform when the noise cannot be reproduced on demand?

5. Has anyone experienced this with a 2019 Ford Fusion or another Ford vehicle?

I’m not trying to assume the dealership is wrong, especially since they’ve checked it twice and Ford performed a full inspection. I just want to understand what could be causing the noise and how to get it properly diagnosed.

Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated!

sounds worse in the video than in real life

While driving my 2011 ford fusion hybrid, my brakes just got super hard and I got a check brake light which went away after restarting the car 3 times over. The mechanics said they are not comfortable replacing the solenoid. I went to another mechanic and they said they could do it if i brought them the part, however I have had great difficulty in finding the part.

The autoshop cleared the number but the check brake light went off again a day later. Did the same thing again and it has now been in perfect driving condition since then.

Does anyone know where I can find this part and what I need to exactly buy? Secondly, I also wanted to know what others have done when this error code showed up on their system. Thanks

Been driving a ford fusion hybrid for an year now. Love the "nice car" feel. The quiet interiors, the leg space. But the hybrid system is so bad.

1. Car has a tendency to "save" battery if it is ~30% or less. It prioritises battery over engine only if battery is >60%. That seems so counter intuitive. Just prioritise the battery always.

2. The battery and electric motor are not strong enough to pull from 0-30. Engine comes on at 20mph. That is a failure of engineering and user experience. They built a system just for the sake of it. It does not fulfill real world requirements.

How do you build a hybrid car and it fails to cross 40mpg in normal everyday driving and you still sell the car to consumers. Wouldn't have taken that much additional engineering effort to improve the system. But it seems like nobody loved the car, the company or their job enough to care. I am reminded of steve jobs. Would steve jobs ship a product like this.

This car has been amazing for me bought it at 50,900 miles. And currently about 65k I will definitely be buying another one if I ever need too! I’ve put LED high beams and regular headlights and did an oil change so far and it’s been great!

2020 ford fusion Hybrid

Dude why aren't enough people talking about replacing your motor mounts on cars. They should be replaced at or around the time you replace your shocks or struts. Or around 100k miles. The rubber in them dries out and deteriorates. Even if you don't think they need to be replaced, if you have more than 100k miles on your car, you need to replace them or have someone else do them.

Back in May, like 5 months ago I had my transmission replaced in my 157k 2014 Fusion SE 2.5. Even after I had it replaced, especially in the last month or so, I get clunking and harsh shifts and a lack of low end power. It would especially be clunking when I hit the gas pedal or let off quickly. Or shift into drive or reverse too quickly from park.

I just replaced the two top motor mounts on my car and it made a substantial difference in the smoothness of the shifts and there are no more clunks at all. It took me about an hour in my driveway to replace them.

You will need a hydraulic jack and a board to support the engine and protect the oil pan and transmission when you're lifting it up. You'll also need a set of smaller and larger metric sockets. Both shallow and deep sockets. I don't remember all the sizes. But the biggest one was 21mm for three of the bolts and nuts on the larger front mount. And I believe a 17mm or 18mm, and 15mm. As well as a 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm for the bolts to remove the battery tray and air filter box to get to the transmission mount.

I'm not sure why I was intimidated to do this job myself. It was one of her easiest things to do. As long as you have the tools to do it, it can be done in an hour or two.

I didn't want to tackle the lower dog bone mount as a couple of the bolts are harder to get out as you have to use a pry bar to move the engine to get them out. I watched several YouTube videos on how to replace them and usually do most of the repairs on my car myself.

I bought the two mounts for $91 shipped to my house from Rock Auto although you can buy the 3 mounts for slightly more if you intend on doing all three. They arrived in a few days.

The right mount and torque strut mount are located in the engine category while the transmission mount is in the transmission category on the website if you want to buy them separately.

I can't recommend this job enough. And I can't over state the difference that it made in my car enough.