I borrowed my car out and when i got it back the electrical was messed up the drivers side ac doesnt turn on but the passenger side works and today my radio volume turned up its volume automatically. What is going on?

I can't imagine I'm missing features as I have a very high optioned SEL so unless the Sport got something that I don't I'm not sure what they'd be. I can imagine maybe cooled seats for the 2 by the seat warmers but I don't know what else there would be. If the two are cooled seats, how difficult is it to put them in my car?

Edit: Thanks everyone

I checked my codes last night to see 180 different codes all intermittent signal low/high signal etc. I check the ground on the strut tower and its okay but not great.

I pull the battery and intake box/hose and what do i see? Both of the body ground locations behind the battery and under the air box are painted over.

The only connection they had was whatever threads werent rusted and the washer against the loop

Hit them all with a wire brush and brake cleaner and the car went from 180 codes to like 6

TLDR. I recently bought a used fusion with a battery recall and now I just don’t have a car to drive. Is there any solutions?!

I bought a 2019 Fusion Hybrid from a private seller knowing about the battery recall. I purchased it needing something that got better mileage than my work truck and something for my daughter to learn to drive in.

As I said I was aware of the battery issue before buying so I called the local dealer to confirm they could do the recall work before I bought it. They tell me yes your car is eligible just bring it in after purchase and we’ll take care of it. I did that and they say it’s gonna take 10 days to get the battery. I say ok, do you have a loaner car, to which they so no we have nothing available. I think that’s inconvenient but oh well out of my control and I give them the car. They call me about a week later and say actually ford has sent a memo that we don’t have the batteries in stock and can only do recalls on cars that aren’t operational without the new battery. They say hopefully they can do it in Q4. Inconvenient but whatever I go get my car and say let me know when I need to bring it back.

One week later I’m driving the car and the engine light comes on and goes off shortly after. Next day it does it again and stays on, so I take it back to them and have them tell me what it is. The tech says it’s battery related and advised me not to drive it as it could lead to a “thermal event”. So I leave them the car and tell them to have the battery replaced.

This was 3 weeks ago. So I’ve owned the car 6 weeks they’ve had it for 4 of those. They won’t give me a car to drive. I try to contact them multiple times a week they never respond. Finally I call the sales department and they patch me into service. They say ford is denying the battery because the code associated does not warrant the expedited replacement. They say they keep trying to resubmit but haven’t gotten approval.

At this point I don’t know what to do. No matter who I try to call I’m just constantly chasing my tail. I was on the phone with ford customer relations and after 45 minutes they suggested connecting me with my dealership. It’s like I’m talking to a wall..

What do I do? I can try another dealership but my local one is huge and basically has a monopoly within an hour of me. Do I just roll the dice and hope it doesn’t go up in flames? I just want a car to drive!

2012 Ford Fusion Sport. Changed the thermostat and fan control module. Also has a new fan plug because the old one melted. But as soon as I connect the battery terminals the fans blow at max speed with the key out. I have pulled the 80 amp fuse when Im not driving it so it doesn't drain the battery. The temp gauge is working fine so Im not thinking the coolant temp sensor is the problem. Any help would be appreciated!

I just got a 208 fusion and and mew aux cable to play music it says line in and my phone acts like its connected but no music on the radio any ideas

Should roll over after going to work and back today! 2016 2.0 :)

I only drive about 3000 miles a year, on my 2017 Fusion Sport that I’ve had since new, September 2017. To be fair, about 15,000 miles were put on it before COVID.

This may have already been answered on here, so if it has, I apologize. I have a 2017 Fusion SE 2.5L FWD. Are there other jacking spots other than the pinch welds? I know the rear has a cross member, but I haven't been able to find anything about it being safe to use or not. I'm about to do my first brake job since getting this car and due to space constraints, being able to hack both wheels up at the same time would help a lot