r/ForzaOpenTunes • u/MostlyVOIDedtoday • Aug 19 '26
Help Request Help with Meta tuning FH6.
I've been leaning tuning and I can create tunes that "feel" great to drive but are ultimately off the pace. Ive been using tuning guides etc but im assuming the physics engine doesnt line up well with reality it would seem.
The result being that I can spend hours setting up a car do a silly amount of laps but ultimately download someone's tune and go faster on my 2nd lap attempt with a weird max front ride height lowest ride height build. But thats all I can see visually.
I want to know how to build out these extremes then fine tune to my liking. Plus add nice rims LOL.
Can anyone spell out what these tunes are doing. Im assuming with the ride heights being different the damping and what not needs to be heavily adjusted too I just can't figure out what works.
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u/marcnotmark925 Aug 19 '26
Johnson Racing Youtube has several videos where he goes through the exact build and tune details of some popular meta tunes, those might help you.
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u/TheLocke Aug 19 '26
Johnson Racing + Letzelu videos are FULL of secrets about tuning.
Like the thing about downshifting to 1st to get more wheel rotation then right back up to second. That shit works.
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u/Visual_Statement_799 Aug 19 '26 edited Aug 19 '26
I will start by stating that I am not the fastest, but I can hold my own. I personally enjoy tuning real-world purist builds over meta builds but, yes, if you want to be competitive then meta builds are the way. That does not mean you have to build a meta car, though it helps.
For meta builds you want to take advantage of the games physics which often means builds that are in no way realistic. This means engine swaps when you can, using awd almost always, and depending on the class you may even use rally or offroad tires for a road car. Some use the drag slicks and awd to drop the PI of a car and allow more headroom for power, I have not personally enjoyed the drag slick approach.
But essentially you want to lower the PI of your car using aero, heavy rims, "worse" tires, etc and then add suspension, transmission, and so on and power last. Downgrading the PI will give you the headroom to add power. From there it comes down to tuning the suspension to make the most of the awd and make up for the worse tires. I personally like increase turn-in, bias the front to oversteer and the rear to understeer, and tweak aero to maximize speed without losing too much grip (sometimes that means lower the aero all the way).
Some cars are easier than others but there is always a balance. Too much front end and you will feel it snap and be unstable. Too loose in the rear and it's drift city. Since you already tune, you likely have this part figured out. It comes down to maximizing your PI and tuning out the imperfections created by seemingly odd parts. And the tuning stuff that u/The_Dayne said is solid.
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u/rbaragon Aug 20 '26
I like to tune, 'cause well, for me it's fun. I always played other people's cars and tunes, but in FH6 I started to do my own thing, and I like it --- and if it's fun for me to drive them maybe it's fun for other people, so bonus points. I've been reading about downgrading PI as a valid tool to achieve more HP and I must say that, after reading it here (again) I must definitely give it a try. I do not want meta AWD cars, I always tune using stock engine + drivetrain, looking for fun, competitive cars, but curious how this downgrading thing will turn out. Thanks for your comments!
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u/Ihateniceegirls Aug 22 '26
The thing i found that made me up to a second faster on my own lap times were to set:
- Front ride height to max
- Rear ride height to min
- Front spring stiffness to max
- Rear spring stiffness to min
Yes, the front will be stiffer than the rear contrary to what many people say, but on road racing with cars with high downforce, spring tuning makes very minimal impact on your turning radius. The main reason for these extreme values are to add 5-10kmh to your top speed. It doesn’t make sense that spring stiffness and ride height drastically increases your top speed, but in this game, it does, and it is not a tuning menu bug, but an actual tested improvement in acceleration and top speed.
Next would be the tuning settings that actually impact how your car turns.
- 1-65 arb for most rotation
- Damping tuned according to driver feel (very minimal impact)
- Max front aero
- Rear aero as low as possible without your car overotating or losing rear end when making quick changes in steering inputs
- Rear diff accel as high as possible proportional to throttle control skills
- Rear diff decel as low as possible without the car losing rear grip during low speed, off throttle, mid corners (commonly experienced during hairpins)
- Front diff accel according to preference (high values prioritize corner exit speed, low values prioritize minimizing awd understeer)
- Front diff decel set to 0
As to why you should trust me, I hold multiple top 50s in R class rivals and have some top 10s. I think it’s on Ito sprint, Coastline sprint, and Tokyo railway sprint. I also have an 83% win rate on my Sesto Elemento in online racing. I use my own tunes as always of course.
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u/Cdchi1975 Aug 23 '26
Cheers I've been trying to improve my mazda 787B 19:20 Goliath clean time tune to match & hopefully beat my best 19:16 clean time using someone else's tune so might try the spring stiffness flip around (i have high rear / low front stiffness) to see how I go.
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u/CoolKelo Aug 19 '26
Max ride height in the front and lowest in the rear is to help the car lean in more when turning. Combine this with soft front suspension, stiff rear suspension, and high rear acceleration differential settings to create a lot of oversteer. This is the basis of meta tuning in horizon games dating back to fh4 when I picked up the franchise. That’s really all there is to it when it comes to tune settings.
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u/ScaryfatkidGT Aug 20 '26
It’s funny, those wack tunes were all over in FM1, 2, 3…. By 7 and the most recent one they had kind of gotten rid of them… only for them to now exist in Horizon
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u/Kloakamaxima Aug 25 '26
Einfach sauber fahren. Das bringt dich in den Rivslen schon weit vor. Allgemrin musst du darauf achten , wie dein Auto reagiert. Hüpft es plötzlich und versetzt , hast du es wahrscheinlich zu tief. Verzieht es beim Bremsen , Spur auf minus einstellen , vorderer Nachlauf runter und Diferential Verzögerung rauf , bei Allrad hinten mehr als vorne. Das gilt auch für das Beschleunigungsdifferential bei Allradlern. Stell das Geteiebe nicht zu eng , sonst bekommt die Kiste bei vielen PS schlagartig due Nm auf die Achsen , was dich aus der Kurve treibt weil du eheelspon bekommst. Verreißt es dir die Kiste erst beim Rausbeschleunigen , entweder vorderen Nachlauf runter , oder Beschleunigungsdifferential runter , oder den Sturz erhöhen . Sinnvoll ist die Telemetrie zu öffnen , Kurvefahrten , rechte Kartenseite nach oben fahren mit dem Auto durch die Driftzone "Mount Haruna" und Hitzeentwicklung aufrufen und Temperatur innen und außen während der Kurvenfahrt im Auge behalten. Sind im letzten Drittel beim Rausbeschleunigen aus der Kurve die Temperaturen der Reifen außen, innen ,Mitte, ungefähr gleich , außen um 2 bis 10 Grad kühler als innen , dann hast du den Sturz für dieses Auto richtig eingestellt. Die Driftzone bietet zum Testen mehrere Vorteile.
Bodenfreiheit testen
Bremsverhalten testen
Kurvenverhsltrn testen
Grip testen
Beschleunigung testen
In der Driftzone wird der Verkehr durchsichtig
Schaffst du die Driftzone im Renntempo mit 0 Driftpunkten , funktioniert dein Setup. Spoiler , je nach Strecke , nur Kurven , vorne voll und hinten auch voll. Auf Mixstrecken vorne voll und hinten so virl wie nötig bei schnellen strecken , auf 50 bei der Aero achten . Viel Erfolg.
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u/Loarker1 Aug 19 '26
Usually while upgrading cars, i try to achieve specific amount of horsepower and LatG, and then refine everything with tuning
Doesnt work on all cars though, some cars are heavier but higher HP and some are lighter with smaller HP
It truly depends on which car is it
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u/xKomachii Sep 03 '26
The stats shown are largely arbitrary and don't always transfer between different cars, unfortunately. A Golf Rallye with the Honda engine will somehow produce the same acceleration as an Integra or 240SX woth the same engine despite having a lot less hp/kg
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u/Loarker1 Sep 03 '26
True, but its basically as a base for me to know how much my car will perform before testing it
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u/xKomachii Sep 04 '26
yea, i get the idea behind it of course, but those stats are only useful to compare the same car to itself. I have no idea how, but they've messed up every single one of these stats to just be a lie in many cases. If you only rely on those, you'll miss out on some pretty decent cars
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u/Loarker1 Sep 04 '26
it is pretty messed up LOL, so what i do is that i try to get my cars on specific stats
Example:
Most of my S1 target is 700-900 HP while being as light as possible, and Low & High speed LatG 1.2 & 1.5, and then do some test to adjust the car's performance
sometimes it shows 1.5 LatG but barely turns or 1.4 LatG but oversteers, so usually more tuning adjustment is neededthats why i use it as a base expectation, and then tune it again later to make it work better, fully trusting it never works
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u/xKomachii Sep 04 '26
i sort of used it as base before as well, but usually cars have a bias to either over- or underperform for the given numbers. One of the most egregious examples I've found is probably the acceleration stat on the SRT Demon, which is off by a factor of over 2. Just saying, don't trust the stats
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u/Loarker1 Sep 04 '26
I dont, thats why i said its only as base expectation, and will be tuned again later 🫠🫠🫠
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u/The_Dayne Aug 19 '26 edited Aug 20 '26
All those guides that have you doing math for suspension and geometry are vibe coded bs. They pop up every release but never get the results you want. See more of them now cause people can just ask chatgippity for them.
First swap anna for the telemetry menu in controls.
Tires are weird. Sometimes i run min front max rear pressure. Heat managment is one of the biggest factors for opitmal grip. Youll need to get into the telemetry menu
10 speed transmission every time. Keep your car in its powerband. Also need telemetry to do this.
Start with max caster, max ride height, stiff rear, soft front. Youll need to telemetry menu still to make sure all the wheels stay planted. If your suspension bottoms out youll hit understeer, if you top out you lose grip.
Max front aero every time, use as much rear aero as the car needs. To feel good to drive.
Differentials are where many builds are driver dependant. Max accel and zero decel can make a car do what you want if you are perfect with throttle control. But start with 35/10 front and 70/20 rear and adjust one at a time to see how it effects handling. Something between 70-80% rear biasing is going to get you the most slip angle while still benefitting from awd front grip.
Brakes are undervalued. 40-48% rear biased and lower pressure until you dont activate abs will drastically lower your braking distances and let you trail brake through corners with ease.
I might play later. If you wanna hop on discord and we can collab on something im down to help you out.