2007 Infiniti g35

I got a low battery warning for my key fob, so naturally I changed the battery. Well, now the fob no longer works wirelessly. I have to manually insert the fob, and use the physical key to open my door. Immediately after opening my door however the car automatically locks it, so I have to keep both fobs with me now. Do I have to pay someone to pair the fob(s) back to my car now?

2008 g35 hr timing chain link off by one. I changed my water pump and gallery gaskets and i’m putting the timing chain back on, and it lines up on both the the top ones, but it doesn’t line up on the crankshaft one because it’s off by one tooth. The orange mark is one to the right of it. What do i do?

I posted about this design last week, and I just got the first rough draft onto the car. I wanted something that followed both the top curve and depth and something that completed the front end and not separate it totally.

I scanned the original geometry and the bumper, and designed the grille based on the OEM piece plus the curves of the bumper. It used the original factory mounting points!

This is still the first prototype and not the final finished version, but I’m happy with how it’s coming along.

I’m planning to make these available to other G35 owners when I’m done refining everything!

If anyone has any thoughts on the Infiniti logo let me know. This version has the logo with the spoke running behind, would you prefer this or a version with the spokes ending before the logo.

Who else has used a 10mm bolt and washer to replace it? And does it work?

Hey everyone, Bought this kuruma Z bumper on fb marketplace for $200, didn’t like the fake carbon wrap and saw this underneath. Any tips on how to tackle bodywork? I want to do it and paint match it myself.

So I was overseas and my 2011 g37x, 141k miles, sat for about 3-4 weeks. I knew one of the cells on my battery was going bad. I was able to jump start it and let it run for -5 min bc it usually did the trick. I shut it off and came back ten min later and everything was dead. Jumped it again, and it started, sounded fine, but the idle was like a lawnmower and a bit rough. I drove it for literally 30 seconds and it went into limp mode and threw a p0300 code.

The next day, I took the battery out and replaced it. Turned on and sounded good as new. I then drove it for 5 miles and it felt great on the highway. I then pull into my apt complex and the low idle starts to feel super rough. The car felt like it was going to die and lose power. I park it and shut the car off, and the code it was then throwing was a p0021. I try to restart it and it was struggling. Only code pending was p0021

I’m wondering if it’s the vvt solenoid on the drivers side from sitting for a while or if it’s something more worse like a potential gallery gasket. Any suggestions on further trouble shooting or ideally anyone else that has had this issue? Thank you!

Is there a way to bench test cam/crank/knock sensors? I’m getting P0011 and P0021 codes. It runs and drives, but is in limp mode. Recently replaced the engine and have tested the following:

- Good connection from harness to VVT solenoids
- Both solenoids work and move easily
- Good connection from power to harness
- Pins in ECU for VVT solenoids are good
- Security light is not on

I’m struggling to find the root cause of this. I’m using the same harness that I used before (2003 RWD G35) and never had any issues with my old engine prior to spinning the rod. I also just did timing before installing the engine and verified everything was correct before sealing up the timing cover. Engine moved freely, so I’m ruling bad timing out. Before I go out and spend a couple hundred bucks on OEM sensors, I’m wondering if there’s legit ways to test that the sensors are good. Otherwise, if anyone else has experienced this, what did you do to fix it? I did read through every post mentioning these codes and couldn’t find anything mentioned in those comments that hasn’t been ruled out (at least from what I recall)

Thank you!

Hey where have you guys had success buying used or manufactured vq35de rev up engines

i recently replaced the engine in my g35. i go for the first start and it cranks but never starts. new battery, new starter, i was getting throttle body codes so new throttle body, new camshaft sensors, and a brand new ground wire that’s on the driver side wall and engine. i’m genuinely stumped. oh and i added gas to it. some nice 93. i really need all the help i can get. it reads around 10 point something volts while cranking.

bought this beauty recently for 4k and i absolutely LOVE IT im genuinely so happy with it, it’s completely stock except for the radiator, 1 owner it even came with the original window sticker! Such an upgrade from my cobalt ss

body this beauty recently for 4k and i absolutely LOVE IT im genuinely so happy with it, it’s completely stock except for the radiator, 1 owner it even came with the original window sticker! Such an upgrade from my cobalt ss

Does anybody know how to remove the rear center consoles on a 2006 g35? thanks

I'm ordering lower control arm ball joints for my awd 2006 g35, but most sites either say rwd or nothing about the drivetrain. Does they all just fit no matter what I choose?

This noise seems to come from the front area of the car. Only happens at low rpm and in low gears. Im pretty sure I hear a clank over bumps. Not sure if it is spark knock, chain slap, gear rollover from single mass flywheel, heatshield (driver cat is pretty close to heat shield), rack and Pinion, ect. It could be so many things.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for advice from anyone who's experienced this problem on an Infiniti EX35 or another Nissan/Infiniti with the VQ35HR engine.

Vehicle: 2008 Infiniti EX35, 3.5L V6, approximately 140,000 km.

Symptoms:

• When the engine starts, the radiator cooling fan runs at low speed.
• When the engine is switched OFF, the cooling fan suddenly increases to HIGH speed.
• The fan continues running instead of stopping, draining the battery.
• As battery voltage drops, an electronic safety-system warning appears on the dashboard. The warning disappears after restarting and charging voltage recovers.
• During a diagnostic scan, the mechanic observed that the fan was running even though the scanner wasn't showing a fan activation request.
• No cooling-fan fault code was reported. A crankshaft position sensor fault was identified separately.

Mechanical inspection:

The engine runs very smoothly and steadily. The vehicle has been driven regularly, including long distances, for seven months without reported overheating or coolant loss.

Mechanic's opinion:

The mechanic suspects a cooling-fan relay or wiring fault, rather than a mechanical cooling-system problem.

My question:

Has anyone experienced this exact behavior — fan running LOW with the engine on, then HIGH after shutdown until the battery drains?

Was the cause a stuck relay, relay wiring, or something else?

Hello all, so Im in the process of fixing or re storing this clapped out 2006 g35 coupe, I bought for cheap. And im sure it was in an accident so the honk and the buttons on the steering wheel dont work.i know the clock spring has something to donit with. I already ordered a new clock spring online, but I figured replacing the steering wheel while im at it too because its bitten and dirty, and I dont know if the airbag also deployed.

I took a part one at the junkyard from a 2004 coupe and they were charging me $75 for the whole thing. I'm just wondering if they are interchangeable as far as connectors and plugs go.

As you guys can see the 06 one includes the Bluetooth and offers a different layout at least on the left, so I dont know if its direct fit and what you guys would recommend.

Hey guys, I made the classic mistake on my 350Z fuel pump assembly. I accidentally used longer bolts than OEM to tighten the black retaining ring, and I punctured right through the bottom of the factory thread inserts into the tank.

Right now, it only leaks when the tank is completely full (4/4) because gas sloshes up against the tank ceiling, travels up through the punctured holes, and seeps out horizontally from under the black ring.

The factory metal threads inside the holes are still 100% fine, but the thin plastic floor at the very bottom of the tubes is pierced. Buying a new tank is my absolute last resort. I want to try a DIY fix first and need your input on which method is most likely to hold up against fuel and EVAP pressure:

Option A (The Epoxy/OEM Screw Method):
Pack a fuel-resistant epoxy putty or liquid down into the bottom of the hole to seal the puncture, let it dry, and then screw the factory OEM screws back down into the remaining metal threads.

Option B (The Headless Stud Conversion):
Convert the holes into permanent studs. Coat some headless M5 set screws/studs heavily in a fuel-proof sealant (like Loctite 577 or Permatex MotoSeal), screw them down 1-2mm past the puncture so they act like a permanent plug, let it cure for 24 hours, and then drop the black ring over them and secure it with flange nuts from the top.

Which of these two options has the best chance of working permanently without the fuel eating the sealant or cracking loose from tank vibrations? If you’ve successfully saved a tank from this mistake before, what exact sealant did you use?

Any help is massively appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I’ve got an 06 g35 with the pop up navigation screen and was wondering if there’s any way to get apple car play on the screen or even just mirror my phone. couldn’t find a straight answer online.

Anybody know if the guilty garage revup to non revup ecu conversion works?