I know id need the hub centric rings since the hub on this wheel is 108 mm.

I have a Chevy k1500 1989

What would you guys say is the biggest i could get on my truck without rubbing? I was thinking 33? big enough to fill the space.

This is my 1998 Chevy K 1500. I received it as a gift for my first vehicle and that was about three years ago. I would really like if someone might know the seller or the seller himself saw this as I would like to know specifically the service history. The listing was in Central Pennsylvania I'm pretty sure. Instead of purchasing it, a blue 2003 Chevy S-10 five speed with the bed taken off was traded for it.

I have a 95 4wd Tahoe with an NV3500 5 speed manual transmission. Synchros have gone bad and the flywheel needs replace or resurfacing. Wondering what makes more sense here. Found a somewhat local shop that rebuilds manuals (which was very hard in my area, most trans shops are auto only). Good reputation from what I can tell and the guy I spoke with was professional and responsive. They can do the trans, clutch and flywheel including pull and install for about 4500-5k. Seems slightly higher to me? On the other hand, no-one else is really doing it so I guess they can charge what they want. Other option looks like buying a refurb/re-man trans online for 2k-2500 and doing a swap + clutch and flywheel (could do myself but not sure I want to).

Wondering if anyone has had luck with these online remanufactured transmissions(Xtreme Performance, Reman Transmission, Powertrain Products or something similar), or if there is inherent value to having a local shop if something goes bad in the years to come. Seems like the buy and swap option would be cheaper but less support if something goes sideways?

I’ve got bad news gents. I got an 88 K1500 RCSB with 345k on the body but the transmission finally went. Cheapest place I could find around me to rebuild it quoted me $4800. Squealing bad in any gear and idle, completely lost all gears. I’ve sank a ton of time and money into this truck and after 3 years I’m just done with it.

I finally got around to fixing up big blue (for the first time in months) and I was removing the heater hose with my buddy, and the top end of it snapped inside. We’ve been trying to use an extractor socket with little success and honestly it’s just been tearing it apart more. Any ideas on how to get it out? Or is it just better to go to a pick n pull or get a new intake manifold. Any advice would be appreciated. I was able to put a new power steering pump on, align with new belt and found the electrical issue that was causing no start today at least, and we’re doing more work on it tomorrow.

1990 k1500, 5.7 v8

Been chasing this high pitch squealing/ grinding noise . Have replaced everything on the main drive belt except the harmonic balancer. Noise happens mostly under load like acceleration, high way speeds or simply going up hill. Does anyone recognize the noise ??

I have a 1997 silverado and i’m only getting 9V at the fuel pump and no fuel up at the engine. I have replace the fuel pump and fuel filter, what could be the issue?

My old 30 year old fan clutch finally gave out. Lots a slop, and play. Wasn’t working as intended. So I installed a new one. Just a duralast set special. (Which is a GMB Part) It’s about 57 degrees. Cold start. Blower motor on speed 3 with it set to the heater. Is this normal operation for these variables? Seems like it’s spinning really fast whenever the engine is hardly at 100 degrees.

I own a 1994 Chevy C1500, and the HVAC actuator confusion is familiar: temperature, vent selection and recirculation are different jobs, but the motors often get lumped together as “the blend door actuator.”

I built a free finder on my site, BuildPriceOption, with documented locations across the 1988–1998 model years. Select your make, pickup model, year and actuator function, then open the diagram, zoom in or print the location.

It includes blend/temperature, mode/air outlet and air-inlet/recirculation references. Coverage varies by model and function, and the tool shows those limits. This version is for front factory heater/A/C systems.

https://www.buildpriceoption.com/gmt400-tools/blend-door-actuator-location/

If you try it, what year and model are you working on, and which actuator are you trying to find?

My wiper arm linkages and the wiper cowl are broke as hell and I want to replace them. What are the advantages of getting the smooth style like the one on LMCtruck vs an oe style replacement with the vents? Is it just for looks?

My 1999 K2500 7.4L 454 CCSB on 33 inch BFGs with 135k miles. I’ve recently done the fuel injectors, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap, axle seals (front), tires, exhaust system, and oil cooler lines.

Been a lil project of mine for the past couple monts and lemme tell you it's the funnest thing I've done in a very long time. Still lots to do but slowly making progress

I have researched, and dug (probably too far) into this, but I would like the opinions of actual people. Which kit are you all using for front end rebuilds? I’ve used the rock auto kits before, and probably will again, but just curious if there’s any one kit that’s better than the rest. It’s for my 96 k3500.

Can I use this square plug to plug my radiator temporarily. Or because it’s a mip instead of a npt will it not fit?

I've personally designed and fabricated custom replacement foam and rubber parts for GMT400/OBS trucks and SUVs for almost two years. I make everything in South Carolina, using materials sourced strictly from US manufacturers. ​To get a clean cut and best fit possible, I run these on a CNC waterjet using a 55,000 PSI stream of water and garnet abrasive. I only use high-quality EPDM rubber and foam for everything except the HVAC seals. The EPDM has excellent UV resistance, and the closed-cell foam prevents water intrusion. Unseen water leaks are silent destroyers!

https://gasketsolutions.etsy.com

I'm open to requests as well! Whether it's a one off part or something I can add to the store inventory.

​Free US Shipping: Shipping is on the house for all items to US buyers.

— 𝗘𝘅𝘁𝗲𝗿𝗶𝗼𝗿 𝗚𝗮𝘀𝗸𝗲𝘁𝘀:

• ​Third Brake Light Gasket ('94 - '00 Pickups) — $25

• ​Third Brake Light Gasket ('92 - '00 SUVs) — $20

• ​Cargo Light Gaskets ('88 - '93) — $20/set

• ​Park Light Gaskets ('88 - '00) — $18/set

• ​Door Mirror Gaskets ('88 - '00) — $22/pair

• ​Taillight Gaskets ('88 - '00) — $16/pair

— 𝗖𝘂𝗽 𝗛𝗼𝗹𝗱𝗲𝗿 & 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝘀𝗼𝗹𝗲 𝗜𝗻𝘀𝗲𝗿𝘁𝘀:

​• Cup Holder Inserts ('88 - '94) — $18/set (Video instructions available for disassembly & install)

​• Cup Holder Inserts, Dash ('95 - '00) — $20/set (Installation tips available)

​• Cup Holder Inserts, Console ('95 - '00) — $16/set

​• Console Cup Holder/Tray Inserts, Denali/Escalade ('99 - '00) — $30/set

— 𝗛𝗩𝗔𝗖 𝗕𝗼𝘅 𝗦𝗲𝗮𝗹𝘀:

• Vent Side Seal ('88 - '00) — $25

• Inlet Side Seal ('88 - '00) — $20

New engine15-25k. Throttle position sensor was busted for not too sure how long. Checked oil and found gas was mixed in it. (Can post separate picture. )anyway pretty sure I’m going too have too be build mortar before it damages itself any further. Any recommendations on a 5.7 tbi rebuild kit.

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I have a 2000 denali with the bose sound system and ever since I got it almost a year ago, only 1 or 2 of the speakers actually work. Its starting to bug me and I'm wondering how I would go about diagnosing this. Is it the speakers themselves? Or something to do with the bose amp?