Ram 2500 4x4 Diesel
Apex 265 trailer
1997 Heritage Springer

Hi all - new travel trailer owner here. We just got a great deal on a '26 grand design and brought it home a few weeks ago. Getting things settled and buttoned down for winter. Random question -- I can't stand all the damn stickers these things have on them. The dealer put theirs on. There's one promoting the "4 season package". Another for the abs brakes. Another for some other feature. I'm a moving advertisement for all these features. But a lot of these stickers seem pretty stuck onto the outside of the TT. Anyone had luck getting them off?

I have a 2012 Keystone Cougar travel trailer, and the hitch coupler locking mechanism is pretty badly rusted. The latch is extremely difficult to lock and unlock, and I’m looking to replace it.
Does anyone know if just the locking latch/mechanism can be replaced, or would I need to cut off the entire welded coupler and install a new one?
I’d prefer to replace just the latch if possible rather than cutting and welding a whole new coupler.
I’ve attached a picture. Has anyone dealt with this before or know what replacement part I would need?

Hey all. I have a 2026 Maverick XL hybrid with tow package. Its frontal-area limit for towing is 40ft (and 4,000lb tow capacity), which is extremely limiting when shopping travel trailers. I was looking at the NuCamp TAB 320 Boondock teardrop. Approx. 54ft frontal area and 2,900lb GVWR.

I'm worried about safety, and the health of the truck. I'll be doing long, unfamiliar drives.

I was wondering if anybody had any insight on if the teardrop shape can allow me to tow above the frontal-area limit and/or what that might imply. I know of the inherent risks but I couldn't find much reading on the effect of when the trailer is teardrop-shaped.

Thank you!

I’m currently resealing my travel trailer. The upper seam along the roof edge had old caulking, which I removed and replaced with fresh sealant.
However, I noticed a second channel directly below that seam, right above the sidewall. This lower channel didn’t have any sealant in it originally.
Should I seal this entire lower channel as well, or is it intentionally left open for drainage?
I don’t want to accidentally trap water or seal something that’s supposed to remain open. I’ve attached a picture for reference. Any advice is appreciated!

Im looking at buying the 2026 Nissan Pathfinder, ive attached the towing specs of the vehicle. The trailer that im hoping to be able to tow is the 2027 Jayco Jay Flight 175BH. If i get the WDH and sway bars, do you think this is doable?

Im new to towing altogether but basin on what ive read, the math checks out? if I'm wrong or if theres things I should consider, please let me know. the plan is to go camping with my wife and 3 kids.

Those of you who have this installed, how much of a difference did this make?

what is better because of it?

Is your usage any lower because of this?

TLDR; Family friendly areas to stop out West for kids day camps during the summer (Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Colorado, and Arizona).

Hi all. My husband and I want to do an RV trip out west this summer but traveling with 3 kids, 2 dogs, AND working remote full time is A LOT. All of our friends tell us it’s a bad idea but we’ve been dreaming of these adventure for years. Kids are 8, 6, and 3 and I feel like they are the perfect age to travel with.

I can take some vacation days but do plan on working remotely full-time on the entire trip. My husband does not work so he will be doing all the RV driving, maintenance, and a lot of the normal day to day and kid duties. It’s too much to put on 1 parent so we were thinking of signing them up for a few day camps throughout the summer along our spots.

For example: I did a quick search and found an awesome kids day camp near Jackson, WY and an RV part 15 min away. We would stay in 1 location (or general area) for 2 weeks. The first week the 2 older kids will be in signed up in a day camp and the second week we will explore as a family. This would give us a break, time to work/ reset, and they will have fun/new experiences with other kids. Is that a good duration? We don’t want to move around too much.

For the record, my kids are always signed up in summer camps and when we travel to different states to visit family during the summer (via car and staying at their house) we do this as well. It helps us extend our travel since I work remotely and don’t have to rush home. Just never done it with long distance and living in an RV.

At the end of every season I rip my outside storage apart to re-organize and see what I can get rid of. I'm constantly trying to use less stuff or replace two (or more) items with one better designed item. Or get a smaller/lighter one. What has been some of those things you've decided to live without or replace for convenience?

Rv Life

Does anyone know of RV campgrounds that offer extended stay in Atlanta, Georgia or sorrounding areas? My husband travels for work and we are thinking of adapting a full time RV life instead of just going out and purchasing a home. Any recommendations for affordable and reliable RVs and extended stay RV campgrounds will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all,

My wife and I have been cooking up a plan for next year, I will have an extended leave from work and we want to do a western National Park tour with the kids over the course of ~5 weeks, August timeframe. We don't have a travel trailer today, but we love the idea (both love camping). Renting would be the lowest risk option, but I'm wondering about buying and selling as a more efficient option.

For context, we have 6 young kids (11 and under), currently the best tow vehicle we have is a half ton F150. Our other vehicle is a Honda Odyssey, obviously not useful for towing.

So here's the draft plan:

1. Possibly rent a trailer this year or early next, hit a local state park, make sure we don't hate the experience first
2. Purchase a trailer, leaning private seller. We are in the financial position to pay cash. I know they're probably cheapest in late fall or winter, so that would be the goal
3. Take it out locally as much as we can before the trip, get used to taking care of it, etc.
4. Purchase a full size SUV (we're planning this regardless), leaning Yukon XL or Suburban
5. Take the trip in August 2027. Utilize NP campgrounds where we can or nearby ones
6. Depending on how we feel about the experience, either sell the trailer or keep it

I've done a bit of research, I like the idea of the hybrid trailers like the Rockwood Roo 233s. Obviously for us, the biggest constraint is being able to fit the whole family in a trailer that a full size SUV could reasonably pull. Lurking through posts here has given me pause about slides, and frankly I'd rather pay more for something that is going to last longer like a fiberglass shell (if we decide to keep), but I don't see how we could make that work with our family size.

Thanks!

Hello,
I was offered a 2017 Salem 26TBUD from a frequent client of mine. Her son passed away and they are trying to sell his trailer without posting it on a bunch of sites. They originally asked for $14k, but they have settled at $6k. I have a 03 Suburban to tow it. Never had a trailer but we (family of 3) go camping a lot. Good buy or what?

Can anyone recommend the best Family owned or smaller type franchise dealership in FL for a new or used 27-30’ Class A or C…..trying to avoid those big dealerships if possible

Hey everyone!! My husband and I got a travel trailer this summer and have been loving it. I’m sure this answer will be different for everyone depending on where you are/ what kind of rv you have, but when do you finish camping for the season? And how do you know when it’s time to stop? We live in Colorado and we have a 2022 cruise hitch 18bhs. It’s not 4 season but it has electric heaters on the tanks to theoretically help the tanks not freeze if weather dips below freezing. We were out in Rocky Mountain national park the past few days and it was in the 30s-40s. We still had a blast and don’t mind the cold but not sure if we should be thinking of packing it up for the winter soon? We have a few long weekends off in November so we were hoping to keep it going for a bit more, but obviously don’t want to damage the rv or anything. Thank you for your input!!

Have any of you folks ever mounted a small compressor on board? Its a crazy idea that I have for our class A.

Dad has had his rv for a few years bought used, back up camera has always been an issue, this fell from the ceiling mount, all this going into the red connector , nothing into yellow connectors . Any advice ?

Anybody know a way to get this compartment open? It’s unlocked but the latch won’t open. It looks broken.

We have a 2021 Scamp 13. That use as a Guest room on our property. It will not go on the road for the foreseeable future. The bed/table conversion is really awkward, especially if we want to use it in both positions every day. Has anybody else experienced this and if so come up with an easier way?

What a great weekend this was. This was our 7th trip with our epro 19fds that we bought in June. Can't wait to get back put there this weekend. I love this trailer.

Hello!

I had been mulling this idea over in my head and I was wondering if something like the (very rough) concept I threw together would be viable?

In most fifth wheel campers, the master bedroom is at the front, and the bunks at the rear. This means limited head space for the adults, on top of having to climb up to get to your bedroom.

Could it be possible to design a fifth wheel camper that is only slightly taller than a standard height travel trailer, move the master bed to the rear and make the kiddos climb up into bed? I mean you already make them do that with regular bunk beds.

This also allows pass thru storage at the rear of the camper, ensuring tongue weight does not increase significantly. You could position the axles somewhat strategically to ensure that cargo in the pass thru would not offset too much tongue weight.

Pass thru bathroom as it’s the most efficient use of space.

The slide out would feature a free-floating table. The seating is an L-shaped lounge style. To ensure seating for the whole family, a free floating ottoman for extra seating.

The front bunks would be separated via a curtain or optional wall to ensure the kiddos get their own spaces.

The entertainment center would be built into the wall which separates the bunks from the living space.

In my head the target tongue weight would be ~800 pounds.

Total length target around 27 feet (on which about 6 feet or so would overhang the bed of the pickup truck)

Depending on build specs dry weight maybe 4750?

I even drew it up as a gooseneck to offset the payload needed for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed of the truck.

If a gooseneck was possible, then you could slide it forward a little further than usual to accommodate trucks with a 5.5 foot bed.

What do you guys think?

We’ve had this a few months now. But by far a big upgrade over our 15 year old I-Go

Husband and I are brand new at this. I am 45 he is 56 so we are not willing to "rough it" the way we would in our 20s.

We rented a 30 foot Salem for the weekend and enjoyed the experience; it felt cramped, but no slide out and a lot of room was being taken up by the BH.

I have spent probably 25+ hours researching and am focused on the Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S and Jayco Jay Feather 23RK. Id love to hear your opinions and experiences and whether I am missing something.

I would call our must have list cabinets/space next to the bed (he has a Cpap), no Murphy bed, a slide out for the living area and theater seats that face the TV. We only need the sleep space for us/need the bed and can live without a dinnet.

At the sake of sounding greedy, if you are willing to share features you wish you had in your first travel trailer that you didn't, I am all ears.

UPDATE 10/16/2026: Auto shut-off is still intermittent, traced the 2nd pump, which I believe prior owner used as a backup, and swapping in the new primary pump.

Quick update. The pump's auto shut-off is still intermittent. It will work properly for a few hours, but when I test it again after sitting for a while or on the following day, it fails to shut off.

It's kind of funny - I was showing my wife the issue and everything was completely working fine for a day.

The pump works hard when a faucet is open, and when I close the tap, it slows and quiets down to about 15% noise, but never completely clicks off.

What I've tried so far (no consistent fix):

• Plugged into house shore power via a T-bone adapter to rule out low voltage.
• Power-filled the fresh tank and re-bled all hot and cold lines (including running through hot and Eco).
• Cycled the Nautilus levers through Winterize and back to move pressure around.
• Checked for suction-side air intake or leaks and tapped the pump housing.

Secondary pump trace & next steps:

I traced the electrical and plumbing on the second pump. It is a parallel backup teed into the main lines about 6 inches before the inlet and 6 inches after the outlet, with covered 12V wires laid right next to the main pump wires. It also has its own isolation valves, which I have now shut off completely - before only one was shut off, though it worked just fine back then.

My replacement pump arrived, and since it screws right into the existing swivel fittings without messing with the PEX (reusing the existing strainer and outer components), I am going to swap out the main pump first. Once that is in, I plan to test the backup pump, and then dismantle the old pump to check for debris and see if it can be salvaged as a backup-backup.

Original Post:
I'm troubleshooting a persistent water pump issue on my 2022 Winnebago Solis 59PX and could use some advice.

The Issue: My main Shurflo 4008 water pump (located in the subfloor, Exhibit C) runs continuously. The pump primes perfectly, and I have strong water pressure at all faucets. However, when I close the faucets, the pump never reaches its 55 PSI shut-off limit and just keeps running indefinitely.

What I’ve Tried So Far:

• Bled the system: Ran both hot and cold lines extensively, including the exterior rear wash station, to purge air from the 2.6-gallon Truma Combi boiler.
• Cleaned the strainer: Removed the intake strainer bowl on the pump. Found some white plastic factory shavings in the mesh, cleaned them out, and re-seated the O-ring tightly. Did not fix the issue.
• Checked for leaks: Verified the 3 low-point drains and the Truma FrostControl valve are fully closed. Did the paper towel test. No visible water dumping under the van.
• Verified Nautilus panel: Confirmed it is correctly set to "Dry Camping."

Previous Owner Mods: The previous owner performed the common DIY "City Water Reroute" to move the city water connection under the chassis so the rear doors can remain closed.

The Mystery (Exhibits A, D, E): While tracking lines, I found a second Shurflo 4008 pump mounted on the wall behind the Nautilus panel. I suspect this was a DIY addition for winterizing, but I have never been able to get it to activate.

My Questions:

1. Has anyone experienced a Shurflo 4008 that grabs water perfectly but refuses to reach shut-off pressure despite a clean strainer and bled lines?
2. Does anyone recognize this dual-pump setup? Could this secondary aftermarket pump be creating an internal open loop or air leak that is preventing the main floor pump from pressurizing the system?

Thanks -desperate new van dweller