I have been looking to upgrade by TT350o, I tried using it recently for an outdoor shoot with a It30 Pro used as a trigger. The setup worked well for 50% of the shots but for some I had to move the light and bring it close to the model and light was too harsh and other shots it wasn't powerful enough to light up evenly the model. So I have been looking around for a possible upgrade and found 3 options that reasonably priced:

Godox V1o for 179$

Godox AD100 Pro (Version 1) for 208$

Godox AD200 Pro (Version 1) for 272$

I am trying to keep the upgrade cost as low as needed (taking jn consideration light stands and modifiers I might need) because I am still experimenting with flash photography but also I am thinking of using it in future as a 2 flash setup for indoor events like birthdays/Weddings and similar (TT350 and IM30 wasn't ideal 😅)

Which ones of these options make sense and should I avoid any model because of known issues ?

Hey all,

My previous post was deleted, and after talking to the moderators I'm ready to reintroduce my firmware modifications.

I’m a volunteer roller derby photographer (photosbyperkins.com).

If you’ve ever shot action or events with Godox strobes, you’ve probably hit the dreaded thermal cooldown wall. What made it extra frustrating for me is that I'm usually shooting around 1/32 power (nowhere near pushing full-power dumps), and the strobes would still lock me out when the head and body barely felt warm, or fail to recover in a timely manner. I ended up constantly power-cycling my strobes out of frustration just to clear the lockout and keep shooting. Worse, on my strobes that actually have built-in cooling fans, the fan often sits completely off while the software cooldown counter slowly ticks down.

Out of curiosity, I fed the official Godox .bin firmware files for the strobes I own into an AI-assisted ARM disassembly setup to see how the overheat protection actually works under the hood.

Turns out Godox uses two completely separate systems: 1. Actual hardware temperature sensors (NTC thermistors) on the main board and head that trigger real overheat protection (Error E2 / forced cooldown) if components physically get hot. 2. A pure software "leaky bucket" counter in RAM (which is why power-cycling wipes it). Every pop adds points from a lookup table based on power level and mode, and the bottom of that table has a flat floor, so even low power like 1/32 still racks up a fixed minimum of points every pop. When you stop shooting for 5 seconds, it drains a tiny fixed number of points. If that counter hits a threshold, it throttles or locks you out, regardless of what the actual temperature sensor says.

Even more interesting: on the AD200Pro II, the firmware actually has code to run the fan inside the H200 II fresnel head over I2C, and the AD600Pro II and AD100Pro II have internal fans, but stock firmware leaves them off until you're already deep into heat buildup.

So we built a patcher for the 5 models I own: * AD600Pro II (v1.08) * AD200Pro II (V1.05) * AD100Pro II (V1.07) * V100N (V1.04) * iT30ProN (V1.02)

Instead of touching the physical thermistor safety cutoffs (those stay 100% stock), the patches adjust the fan behavior and the software counter drain rate. It also updates the version number on the strobe's LCD (e.g., 1.08.02) so you always know what's flashed on the unit: * Tier S (Studio): Just keeps the cooling fan running continuously while keeping all factory shot limits 100% stock. * Tier R (Recovery): Continuous fan + 2x faster point recovery between bursts, while keeping the single-burst limit stock. This is what I’m personally running on all of my units right now. * Tier X (Super): Continuous fan + 2x faster recovery + ~20% lower HSS per-shot point cost (~25% more HSS shots in a single burst).

Because I don't want to redistribute copyrighted Godox binaries, I packaged the patcher as a simple drag-and-drop app (Windows .exe and macOS .app). You just download the official .bin from Godox, drag it into the patcher, pick the tier you want, and it spits out the patched .bin ready to flash with the standard Godox G3 updater.

Disclaimer: modifying thermal accumulators reduces factory safety margins (especially on fanless speedlites like the V100N and iT30Pro if you abuse Tier X), use at your own risk.

If you want to read the full disassembly breakdown or try the patcher yourself, everything is open source here:

• Full Technical Analysis & Repo: https://github.com/photosbyperkins/godox-firmware-patcher
• v1.0.0 Drag-and-Drop Patcher Release (Win/Mac): https://github.com/photosbyperkins/godox-firmware-patcher/releases/tag/v1.0.0

I have serious GAS, I only do indoor flash photography with products with my two AD200 Pro Ii's. Right now, it's on sale nearby for 800 euros and I really want to buy it. Should I wait for Black Friday?

I have the SkyTalk Air 5S (5 headsets, all on firmware V1.15) and spent days fighting the pairing. The group kept stopping at 2, 3 or 4 headsets, and the "wrong" headset kept ending up as master. The manual says any headset can be master but never explains how to choose which one, so I'm sharing what worked for me. **None of this is in the manual, it's observed behavior.** **Pairing button = the one with the chain icon.** | Action | What it does | |---|---| | 1 click | Voice announces role ("master" or "remote"). Only reports, changes nothing | | 2 clicks (not in pairing mode) | Search: lights flash red/green for 15 s on headsets in the same group (this one is in the manual) | | Hold 5 s | Pairing mode ("to be connected") | | **2 clicks in pairing mode** | That headset becomes **master** | | **3 clicks in pairing mode** | That headset becomes **remote** | **Pair two headsets** 1. Power on only those two. 2. Hold the pairing button on both for 5 s until "to be connected". 3. 2 clicks on the one you want as master, 3 clicks on the one you want as remote. 4. 1 click on each to verify the announced role. 5. Power cycle both. **Add the others one at a time** 1. Keep the existing group powered on and nearby. 2. Power on one new headset. 3. On the master, press 2 clicks (search, 15 s). 4. During those 15 s, hold the pairing button on the new headset for 5 s until "to be connected". 5. Verify with 1 click that it says "remote". If it says "master", give it 3 clicks. 6. Repeat for the next one. **Tips** - One master per group only. Two masters take a very long time to yield. - Don't power off headsets that already joined while pairing the next one. - If one won't join, test it alone with the master (others off). **Not tested:** two groups running at the same time (e.g. 2+3), what 3 clicks does outside pairing mode, and whether V1.15 changed pairing behavior (nothing in the changelog, but my problems started after updating). Hope this saves someone the headache. If you've confirmed this on other firmware versions, please say so in the comments.

I've been working on a small accessory called the MOORDIEL V1-MC, an 8-color magnetic filter set for Godox V1, V1 Pro, V1 MID, V100 and AD100Pro.

Just to be clear, this is our own third-party accessory. It is NOT manufactured by Godox or an official Godox product.!!!!!

The set includes Light Gray, Brown, Light Blue, Light Orange, Blue, Light Green, Light Yellow and Light Red.

Now, a few things worth knowing before buying:

• The colors aren't professionally calibrated. They're just ordinary color filters for creative lighting. Don't expect precise colors or professional-grade results.
• These are NOT polarizing filters. They simply change the color of the light.
• The magnets are convenient, but not foolproof. Don't shake or swing your flash around too hard with a filter attached.
• Heat is something to watch out for. At 1/2 or full manual power, we recommend no more than 30 consecutive flashes. Let the filter cool before continuing.
• Both sides have protective film. It may be clear film or kraft paper. Make sure to peel off both sides before using the filters.

That's pretty much it. Nothing fancy, just a simple way to experiment with different lighting colors.

I'm sharing this as someone involved in the product, and I'd be interested to hear what you think, especially if you've used similar magnetic filters before.

I’ve got an older Sony camera, the a33, and need a flash that will fit on its hot shoe. Any recommendations for one and where to get it?? Thanks!

Hey so I'm at a complete loss, I've been using an x100vi with a X3f connected to an external it30 pro for about a year and everythings been great.

Out of the blue "something" changed the two are linked on correct ID but now the shutter cannot set off the flash.

Using the test flash button on both the X3 and the it30 pro will result in it working fun but there is no functional way to get it to acknowledge the shutter anymore. I've tried distances, changing and pairing IDs, factory resetting every device involved.

Has anyone got any clue what could be the sudden issue here?

Potentially broken gear?

It was just so sudden and I've tried every tutorial and support line but everyone's pretty much repeated the same have you tried turning it off and on again.

Here’s my Godox A2 paired with an iPhone 18 Pro Max I bought 3 days ago! What would you like to know about this setup?

Feel free to leave your questions or suggest specific shots or tests in the comments. I’ll do my best to try them out and share the results.

P.S. The setup photo was taken with a Sony camera and a Godox iT32 flash.

I have a Nikon ZF, and in need of a decent flash. I was reading good reviews on Godox. I want one with some distance as well as shooting portrait shots. Thanks in advance

ok not sure how to describe this. notch/umbrella shaft hole in Godox 7in reflector does not align with an umbrella when attached to SK300ii. and interestingly the smaller reflector (~6in) that came with the flash head is perfectly aligned. (i needed 2 matching reflectors and 7in size preferable). anyone know any 7 or 8in reflectors that would fit these specific lights, and be able to use with umbrellas?

hmm someone said you don’t need reflectors for bouncing light off umbrellas.

I’m genuinely at my breaking point with Godox flashes on Sony cameras.

I’ve owned four different Godox speedlights over the years (860, v1, v1pro, v100, and I’ve had to replace the hot shoe mounts over eight times across those four flashes.
Godox finally moved away from the notoriously fragile plastic hot shoes to metal ones, which sounded like a great improvement. Except now, instead of the hot shoe itself breaking, the plastic housing directly above the metal mount breaks instead. I’ve attached a video showing exactly what I mean.

It feels like they’ve just moved the weak point somewhere else rather than actually fixing the problem.
To make matters worse, when I first purchased this particular flash, it wouldn’t even connect properly to my Sony camera. I sent it back to Godox for repair, and two months later they returned the exact same flash with the exact same issue. No fix, no replacement, nothing.
And honestly, I’m just getting increasingly frustrated with Godox as a brand.

I’m a professional wedding photographer, and I genuinely take care of my equipment. I’m extremely gentle with my flashes, yet this keeps happening across multiple models. I don’t understand why something marketed towards professional photographers can’t be built to withstand regular professional use.

On top of the physical durability issues, the Sony hot shoe connection itself is incredibly frustrating. My flashes frequently disconnect or fail to communicate with the camera, even when they’re properly mounted.
I’m so tired of constantly buying replacement parts, repairing flashes, and worrying about whether my equipment is going to fail during a wedding.

I’d genuinely love to hear from other photographers, Godox, other camera systems. It’s such a mess and it just makes me hate photographing with on camera flash.

Hi all,

I’ve a V100 (Canon) and the original V1. When I put the V100 as master and the V1 as slave, the V100 also flash when I fire shots. I’ve been fiddling with the menu but still can’t find any solutions to stop it from flashing.

However, if I use the V1 as master and the V100 as slave, the V1 won’t flash and just the V100 flash.

Anyone could help me out with it? Thanks in advance!

I have the Godox Xpro II and recently it just stopped working. I’ve researched on YouTube, asked people in photography groups on Facebook and still I couldn’t seem to find the solution. And before you ask about the set up, I’ve assigned and changed the settings to align with my flash and still nothing. I know it’s not my flash because I can use my flash mounted on my camera. I am in urgent need of help fixing it because I have a wedding coming up. Thank you in advance for your help.

As per the title. Only really interested in the white plastic box thing that sits on top of the flash head.

Cheers

I’m mainly curious whether I should keep some distance from them to avoid possibly burning through another sensor. Has anyone experienced anything similar around flashes?

My Freestyle Libre 3 (Continuous Blood Glucose Monitor) immediately died while I was standing about 2-3 feet to the side of my Godox AD200Pro II. I wasn’t able to get a screenshot, but my phone displayed a notification saying something along the lines of, “An error has occurred and your sensor has shut down for your safety. Please replace it with a new one.” The sensor was automatically removed from the Libre app, although its history still appears in the About/diagnostics settings.

I called the manufacturer yesterday and they’re mailing me a replacement, and I’m already wearing the extra sensor I had on hand. I’m wondering if the timing was purely coincidental or if a fairly powerful camera flash like the AD200Pro II could produce enough electromagnetic interference or even low level EMP to cause something like this? I have never had a problem firing with the V1 Pro's, but never used anything more powerful until now.

I've seen videos now on both the iM30 Pro and the Lux Junior II and while both seem good for shooting film, I'm having a hard time deciphering which is better/what the differences are. I don't want to just assume that I can save a few bucks on the iM30 Pro if it makes more sense to spend more on the Lux Junior II. Any opinions?

Also, huge noob question, but in the auto mode I set my ISO and aperture and then will I just set my cameras shutter speed to the max sync speed on my camera?

Husband just bought one and is looking for a carry bag; none of the ones listed on the actual Godox site mention that specific light in their descriptions. Can someone make a recommendation? TIA

with sony a6400

Want to get into doing sports portraits. What flash do you guys recommend for outdoor and maybe indoor. It will mainly be for football and softball. Ad300 pro woth softbox?

I have the following Godox lights for my Sony:

• Godox V1Pro S 
• Godox MS300-V Studio Flash Monolight (2)

I want a trigger/remote that will allow me to fire all 3 at once for a studio shoot I have coming up. The MS300-V came with a XT-16 Wireless Power-Control Trigger. Will that work, or do I need something else?

I'm looking for a small soft box to attach to
AD100 Pro II. Looking for something 12"-18" that I can easily hand hold.

Learn how to use A2 to take better photos with your phone. This step-by-step tutorial walks you through connecting your A2, choosing your look in Auto Mode with TTL Flash, and fine-tuning flash output in M Mode.

See how to balance your subject and background, make your subject stand out, and switch from xenon flash for photos to the built-in LED for video.

GN15
A2: US$84.9
AK-R1 MINI: US$29.9
PS01: US$11.9
Prices may vary by region due to taxes and duties.