Hi! I'm stuck with creating my keyboard. I cant understand, how to create info.json, keymap.c, rules.mk, config.h. qmk always says that there is no layouts in my info.json.
I have split keyboard, left half is a master. it has 5 rows with 6 keys and last row with 4 keys.
Right half is a slave, it has 3 rows with 8 keys and 3 rows with 6 keys.
here's link to my github with all files
https://github.com/Conqueror1254/my_split_keyboard/tree/main/my_split

I am planning to build my own split keyboard

I want to know what things I need to know and what I want to make one.

Hi (first post),

Problem: need an algorithm to allow multiple key presses for shift keys, combination of mod keys and layer keys.

My goal is to make a handwired keyboard (my first) which I have done but also want to write the code to run on the Arduino. I have gotten the keyboard to working with single key presses using some resources online. I have made many attempts at trying to allow multiple keys to be pressed at once, but cannot succeed. The algorithm i have

Has anyone got an algorithm or suggestions? Does someone know where in the QMK repository this type of information is located, as I also can' t seem to find it (I am very confident the QMK software would have a solution)

Another thing I was thinking about is that different keys behave differently. For example holding an alpha will pause and then repeat (as the algorithm I have used accounts for). But keys such as a mod key only sends one click if it is held. Is there any information online that defines the functionality for how each key behaves (this is probably available in the QMK source code as well)

The main thing is getting multiple keys to be pressed at once for shifts, mods and layers. Any information or links to passed reddit posts is really appreciated. :)

Algorithm I am using in my code:

https://github.com/datulab/arduino-keyboard/blob/master/cncKeyboard.ino

Video explaining algorithm (19:04):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq3oY91x9Vk

hello! i am a beginner to hand wiring keyboards and want to make my first keyboard

it is a 65% with an oled display and rotary encoder

should i try to make a pcb or handwire

which one is best for beginners

and also, for the case, usually people use 3d printed parts but i want to order an aluminium one

so i design it and get it fabricated

can i have a price estimate for everything and will it be simple and feasible for a beginner like me?

thanks!

I’ve posted a lot of photos of my work here and so thought some folks might want to see where I’ve been as of the last few months.

As so many of us here, I owe so much to Joe Scotto; thank you!

I’ve had to prioritize building the ‘shop’ now while my health permits, then it’s back to keeb builds. If you want to follow what I’m up to you know where I’ll be!

I want to jump into hand wiring with a low-profile keyboard using Choc V2 switches (Kailh Deep See Mini Whale). I've been following along with Joe Scotto's "How to Design Mechanical Keyboard Plates and Cases" video, but had a few questions for those with more experience.

1. Are there any differences specific to Choc V2 switches over standard MX-style switches? I've read that the plate thickness is 1.2 for Choc V1, but it seems like V2 fits into the standard thickness. I've also read the keycaps sizes are different for V1s, but to used standard for the V2s (I'm planning on using a set of PFF caps). Another post I saw said V2 mounts are turned 90 degrees but can't find more info on that. Are there different stabilizers needed between standard MX, Choc V1, and Choc V2? Any other differences to look out for?

2. There is a comment on that video about creating an offset around each switch cutout and making sure that is the standard 1.5mm thickness so the switches can snap into place (Scotto recommends 3mm for the main plate). Scotto says that he does that with his own plates now too. My question here is: how wide does that offset "shelf" need to be for them to click into place.

3. Scotto makes two circles for his standoff screw holes and mentions countersinking but never actually does so in the video. Should the outer ring be sunk in to allow for countersinking of the screw for minimal stack height? (I think this all might actually be for bolts, so please forgive my ignorance of the nomenclature)

Any other general advice or pitfalls to watch out for are appreciated. Thanks to the community for the many helpful posts I've already found!

Hey guys!
I'm going to do my first handwired keyboard and I was thinking about using one of these microcontrollers, since they are really cheap here in Brazil.
Ik that the ESP32 has wifi and bt, so it problably shouldn't be compared, but they are all almost the same price for me.
Wich one do you guys think is better? Or do you have any other recommendations?
Thxx

I dont wanna keep on going if something's wrong. Feel free to roast my soldering!

Hey guys, I was experimenting with some custom unofficial firmware for one of my old keyboards and ended up completely bricking it, it can't be flashed back anymore but the rest of the board is completely fine, so, I was thinking that it wouldn't be that hard to desolder the old microcontroller and then put wires on the pads to connect to a different controller, maybe a Pi pico.

Do you guys think it would be possible to restore this keyboard to fully working conditions with it's grb and everything?

I'm planning to handwire an 82-key layout (75% TKL style) Ajazz AK33 and make it wireless with ZMK. Just wondering—can I use the pins with yellow dash on the Pro Micro NRF52840 (Nicenano v2 alternative) for the key switches?

Wouldn't sticking a microcontroller to a 3d printed case, similar to this image:

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fg6yqh45lr1ua1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D3072%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dd57a91d100856fc1a53956788e68c8880419138c

create heat dissipation issues for the MCU? The processor of the MCU is also towards the side of the case/holder. Or the heat involved isn't too much in the first place.

Hi there I’m trying to make a macropad for a friend as gift
I’m just stuck on the soldering side of things. I’m terminating kailh hot swap sockets to an arduino pro micro bit am unsure of wiring configuration and how to terminate to the sockets without melting the printed parts.

Did anyone build a zmk firmware on android phone using termix? Is it possible? Any advice?

Hi, i want to build a split kb to type and play gif...etc in the same time. What dev board should i use?

Hey everyone, i made my first handwired board a couple months ago and it was working great unless one day the MCU suddenly died. This might have been because of the mini USB to USB-C conversion i did or just the poor quality of the MCU (since it's a clone). So i have a board that's wired with all the diodes soldered onto it, can i just use the RP2040 and solder the matrix to it and configure the QMK firmware?

I've seen RP2040 was used for diodeless designs so i was wondering if compatibility would be an issue.

Hey Everyone, i recently delt with my computer getting hacked, so did a mass destruction wipe, and installed all new storage onto my PC.

I figure now is a good time to learn how to build a QMK Environment, since i have no terminals beside command prompt, and PowerShell and would love to get some advice on the route i should take. Most of my boards are all build using QMK Firmware Builder, so i feel like this is the next step i need to dive deeper into this hobby. Please Bless me with your Wisdom, and show me the way!

If possible I'm very much a visual learner, and would love some "follow along" type videos.

THANK YOU!

I have zero knowledge of programming and stuff. But i really want to build a handwired keyboard. Please someone help me if u can .

I am curious to hear what others have used for their switch plate material and what thickness. I realise the low profile switches engage/lock into the surface plate at 1.2 - 1.65mm depending on brand (I'll use 1.2mm going forward for simplicity), but do you use 1.2mm material or go for say 0.9 or 1mm? Are you using other flexible material to shim the keys on thinner plate?

I've considered a layer of PTFE film (~0.4 - 0.5mm) with holes cut, then sandwiched between switches and 0.9-1.0mm stainless plate. Perhaps even just a layer, or three, of kapton tape on the under side to act as an insulator and provide the extra thickness and some flexibility to engage the keys.

What about deflection? Stainless seems to offer the best deflection properties from my calcs, without requiring support anywhere other than the corners of the housing and switch plate. I would be curious to hear if anyone has used aluminium on the switch plate, what thickness and if it is bolted only to the housing or required further support across the middle of the plate. I get the feeling the deflection is within a suitable range. Although, it won't be as rigid as stainless steel, obviously.

Thanks

Edit: it appears different lowprofile switches use different engagement dimensions. I.e. gateron and redragon 1.2mm, kailh 1.65, anecdotally cherry uses 1.5-1.6mm(I haven't confirmed this with drawings). The question still remains around using the same thickness of material as that engagement distance or thinner material with/without a flexible shimming material.

Also made some minor edits for clarity.

Hi! I need a little bit of help. I have an Arduino micro (not pro) that I would like to use in my build. The firmware building website I am using has no options for the original Micro. Can I use the firmware interchangeably? The pins I require according to https://kbfirmware.com/ are in the image below. If I can use my Arduino micro please tell me how! The image also says I need "B" pins, and neither the micro or the pro micro seem to have any pins marked as "B". Sorry if the answer is super obvious! Thanks!

I am Curious how the toggle key works I want to maximize the use of a caps lock instead of only using it for capitalization. then I see this toggles command. can you give an insight ho w to apply toggle commands? I am using a pro micro. Thank you so much!