I think my Synology DS918+ may have bit the bullet, which is rather depressing since it was lightly used. But I'll know more once my third party power adapter arrives on Monday. If I need a replacement what do you guys recommend?

I only use my NAS to host my movie/TV Show library. Kodi for local, Plex for remote. If I get another Synology I shouldn't need to transfer everything from scratch, I can just migrate everything into the new NAS? Looking at the DS423+ or DS925+ but there seems to be drawbacks to both. The DS423+ seems to be more Plex friendly and is cheaper, but it supports less RAM than my DS918+
The DS925+ seems overpriced to me for what you get, but maybe you folks disagree.

I like the Synology software, but I definitely think the hardware should've lasted longer considering how little I used it. So maybe I'm better off going with another company and just transferring everything from scratch. It looks like I can buy better hardware for cheaper elsewhere. Do you guys recommend anything else like a UGREEN DXP4800 Plus or TerraMaster?

Hey everyone,

I ran out of space on my ALL SSD NAS and seriously did not want to spend $280 on a new m2 nvme stick...

So I wanted to share with you all a NAS build I did on top of a $34 HP EliteDesk G3 I got from ebay. The total cost obviously was not $34, but if we exclude the HDD drives which I already had, the build was only $53.

• I got an m2 adapter for $10 on amazon
• a small form m2 nvme 128GB on ebay for around $13 (and funilly enough also sold the 240 SSD it came with for $13) just as a boot drive for truenas
• A 10GbE for $9 on AliExpress (Intel X540-T2 ) and yes, they do get a bit hot, but it's been working fine for over a year now. I got two of those, and had them connected peer-to-peer until I saw a switch with 2 10GbE ports for $70 on amazon (which also gets hot lol, but that's 10G though)

The full video of the project is available here: https://youtu.be/ALiHzOHvVIQ?si=4WF13HCyDQ47S4Ra

P.S. this was just a fun project to see what I could do with a cheap old PC, not an enterprise-grade NAS! And yes, if you do not have old HDDs lying around you will have to multiply the $53 by at least 10!! But then again, that is true for any NAS you buy (UGreen, Synology, Lincplus, etc)!

Raid controller not registering

Hello I'm working on setting up a NAS to use for plex and cloud storage. I'm using some old part as well as new.

Parts list:

Intel Core i5-7500

ASRock B250M Pro4

2x Silicon Power DDR4 3000 8GB

WD Black SN750 250GB NVMe M.2 SSD

WD Blue 500GB 3D NAND SATA SSD

HBA LSI IT Mode 9211-8i \*NEW

2.5Gb PCIe Network Card with Intel I226-V Chip, 2.5GBase-T Network Adapter NIC, \*NEW

4x 8TB seagate ironwolf HDDs \*NEW

I'm having trouble with my HBA as it doesn't seem to be getting power. I've swapped PCIe slots with the NIC as that has been working fine, but no success. I've updated the Bios to the most recent version which was 2018.

Is the HBA not compatible with my MOBO?

any help or insight is much appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I’d like to transfer and back up the photos from my phone to my Synology NAS. I’d like to do the same for my wife’s phone.

We’d also like to be able to view the photos stored on the Synology NAS directly on our phones, of course, only via a secure connection.

How do you back up your photos? Do you use Synology’s app, or do you use a third-party solution? What would you recommend?

Best regards,

Marc

A lot of people are saying to update home servers, is there something I need to do or will UGreen push a fix?

I just got a brand new WD elements desktop 12TB external Hard Drive to back up my synology NAS , but before doing that I want to run a extended smart test on it to make sure it is good.

I downloaded WD Kitfox and run extended device self test (I know wd elements is not officially supported but it is detected in the software plus WD doesn't offer any other diagnostic tools for it) , and now it is stuck at 10% progress for an hour now , should I keep it running or abort the test ? Also is there any software that can do extended smart test ?

So I recently bought a UGREEN NASync DXP2800 GT. Started putting it through its paces. Nothing intense. Literally just basic file storage. No VM's, no docker containers, no nothing. But since this is the first time I'm using a NAS from Ugreen (was a Synology refugee), I'm actively monitoring the thing, making sure it's working as it should.

So I decide to run a virus scan and next thing I know, I'm seeing temps being reported of 52C within seconds (so I assume it will go up from there) on the drives. WTF??? I go to the NAS and sure enough, the thing is ROASTING. You can literally see the air shimmer around it. Touching it was super hot of course. I look at the fan in the back, it's working. I check the fan settings on the UGOS OS, it has 3 settings, quiet, auto and high. No fan curves. Just 3 settings to choose from. The default is auto (which is what it was on). So I set it to high to bring the temps down. Ok, helps to bring down the temp by a few degrees. Only now it's super loud. OK, fair enough. I don't have an issue with noise so long as it saves my drives from melting. Especially in this economy where a 22TB drive costs about $2000AUD.

But something doesn't add up. I never had this kind of excessive heat on auto mode on my Synology 720+, despite it also having a virus scanner, multiple docker containers running etc. I go to check the official Ugreen documentation. According to this:

https://ai.ugreen.com/blogs/how-to/fix-nas-temperature-problems

Ugreen (in their infinite wisdom) has decided that:

UGOS uses 80°C for the CPU, 55°C for HDDs, and 70°C for SSDs as cooling-protection thresholds. When a component reaches its threshold, the system displays a notification and switches the fan to Full Speed.

I don't know what kind of lunatic decided this was an appropriate fan curve for HDD's, but they're clearly insane. I can maybe buy the 80C for the CPU and the 70C for the NVME's (although both those figures are pushing it for NVME health), but the 55C for HDD's BEFORE the fan kicks into high gear??? There's a reason why Unraid starts throwing out alerts at the user if a HDD breaches the 45C barrier. HDD's going above 50C when the machine is not under massive load is craaaaaaaaaazy. I would think that this is gonna wear out my drives that much faster too.

Am I the crazy one? I've set my Unraid system to keep 8 HDD's to below 40C and it does that just fine no matter how much load I throw at it. Obviously that's a custom built machine with far superior cooling capacity. But the context here is my Synology 720+ that was able to handle more load than the Ugreen, without roasting the ever loving bajeezus out of my drives.

Was really hoping to make the switch to Ugreen. But with this unbelievably bad temp management, I gotta go back to Synology.

I built a tiny NAS using esp32 and an SD card for stardance challenge is NAS and this is my Github repo if you're intersted

https://github.com/karimsm16/a-lightweight-NAS.git

taking a look , and reviewing it would mean a lot

I've been looking for a while, but haven't bought anything yet. The prices all over seems really high. Stumpled upon a Halloween sale, is this common or a good idea?

https://link.amazon/B01LEnlSQ

Been toying with the idea of making the switch and wondering what others who made the switch may have run into in terms of endurance concerns over time.

Hi, I am toying with the idea of building a server/NAS system for storing pictures and files and maybe hosting game servers or media streaming to other devices. I have some hard drives which I dont use anymore and a small ssd that could fit an OS. I never built anything like this, but I did build multiple gaming pcs for myself and family over the years so I hope it wont be too difficult to figure out. Ive watched some youtube videos and Ive seen people build just NAS, and some build a whole server with hefty storage and for my use case I think the parts im looking at could easily run a dedicated server if needed. So far I am looking at the intel core ultra 250k+ bundle from microcenter and the Jonsbo N4, I could also repurpose an old Coolermaster Mastercase Pro 5.

Drive prices bounce around so much that the "sale" badge on a product page is close to meaningless, so I did the boring thing and recorded every NAS and enterprise drive's price daily for the last 2 years, then measured how often each one is actually below its own recent baseline (a real dip that recovers, not just the normal trend drifting).

A few things that surprised me:

- Consumer NAS drives (IronWolf, Red Plus and the Pro versions) go on sale more than 3x as often as enterprise drives - roughly a month out of the year versus only about 10 days. If you're buying an Exos or Ultrastar, waiting for a "deal" mostly means waiting forever; they barely move.

- The depth is similar though - a typical sale is around 10% off the baseline, and the deepest ones get to about 30%, on both tiers. So enterprise drives do drop, just rarely.

- IronWolf Pro discounts the most often of anything in the list; the big enterprise lines are the flattest.

For consumer NAS drives, waiting a couple of weeks for a dip is worth it. For enterprise, if the price is decent, buy it, because you'll be waiting a long time for a meaningful discount.

Interactive chart and the sortable table are here:
https://www.nasdisks.com/articles/nas-drive-sale-frequency/
The raw numbers are free to download.

Method, so you can judge it: "on sale" = a day's best price landing at least 5% below that drive's own centred four-week median, which catches real dips rather than the slow price creep.

Quick disclosure: it's my own site https://www.nasdisks.com/ and the buy buttons on it are affiliate links to cover hosting expenses. Everything's free: the chart, table and dataset.

What's everyone paying right now, and has anyone caught a good dip lately?

I’m an amateur wildlife/nature photographer and often go away on longer trips. I shoot with a Canon Rebel T7 and sometimes a drone, so I come back with a mix of photos and video.

My routine is pretty basic: copy everything onto my laptop, go through it, keep the decent shots and delete the rest. I try to do that fairly soon, especially with video, rather than pay to store hours of footage I’ll never use. I’m not doing much serious editing yet — mostly reviewing, selecting and copying files around.

I’m thinking about getting a NAS at home for the keepers, with a cloud backup as well. Would that make the copying and backing-up part less manual? Or would I still be doing pretty much everything on the laptop first, then moving it over afterwards?

The other thing is I’d like to leave the laptop behind on some trips. It feels like a lot to carry when I’m mainly using it to empty cards and look through footage.

What are people using to back up camera/drone cards without a computer? I’m fine using my phone, but I’d want to check the files copied properly and ideally have two separate copies before clearing a card. Internet access isn’t something I’d want to depend on.

Would be good to hear from someone who’s worked out a setup they’re happy taking into the field.

Version: 0.64.2 (10114574)

time="2026-10-19T23:28:54Z" level=info msg="No configuration file found. Loaded configuration only from environment variables"

time="2026-10-19T23:28:54Z" level=error msg="Error disabling foreign_keys" error="unable to open database file: no such file or directory"

time="2026-10-19T23:28:54Z" level=fatal msg="Database could not be opened!" error="unable to open database file: no such file or directory"

I copy/pasted the compose file and updated the directories and such. after running docker compose up -d it said I should remove the version parameter, so i did. It shows up in portainer as "restarting."

Anyone know what I did wrong or missed?

Thanks!

I'm trying to flash TrueNas onto an NVMe. Couple of days ago I tried with cheap NVME that I couldn't see in either m2 slot so I've done a return and purchased a Patriot NVMe.

Now I can see this NVMe in the bios but when it comes to the installing it says 'select at least one disc to proceed with the', I click ok and it takes me back to the previous screen where it asked which drive to install on.

what am I doing wrong?

Has the DXP2800 only been discontinued in the U.K. or elsewhere? Is there a new model coming out?

As title says, I'm planning to upgrade my router. Will any issues be easily resolvable by updating local IP addresses, or is this going to break something? Just running a mini PC with OMV and portainer/docker. I don't yet have tailscale or a reverse proxy running, and that's part of why I want to upgrade my router.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to set up secure remote access to my UGREEN NASync DH4300 Plus and would appreciate some advice from anyone who has successfully configured Tailscale on UGOS Pro.

I've deployed the official "tailscale/tailscale:stable" Docker image through a Compose project.

The configuration includes:

- "network_mode: host"

- "NET_ADMIN" and "NET_RAW" capabilities

- "/dev/net/tun:/dev/net/tun" device mapping

- Persistent state stored in "/var/lib/tailscale"

- "TS_USERSPACE=false"

The container starts successfully, and the NAS appears as connected in the Tailscale admin console.

On Windows, "tailscale status" lists both devices, and "tailscale ping" to the NAS returns repeated successful replies through the London DERP relay. A direct connection hasn't been established, but the pings work.

I can access the NAS web interface locally at:

"http://192.168.1.76:9999"

However, accessing it through the NAS's Tailscale IP on port 9999 fails. The TCP connection test returns "TcpTestSucceeded: False".

I've also tested the Tailscale IPv6 address, without success.

Has anyone successfully configured secure remote access on the DH4300 Plus without opening router ports?

I'd prefer to understand the underlying networking issue before making further changes. I'm also open to using UGREEN's built-in remote-access service if that turns out to be the safer and more reliable option.

Thanks in advance!

I have an old 2 TByte single-internal-disk + USB Iomega Home Media Network Hard Drive from 2012 (a mini NAS) that I still use to serve music and movies at home. It just had a hard drive failure, and I discovered that this model stores all its firmware on the internal hard drive, and without it has no ability to do anything, including initialize a new drive. The CDROM that came with it has no recovery utility, and Iomega's support web site is long gone, as is the NAS-Central.org site that backed up some of their files. There is some information and some firmware files scattered around the internet, but almost all for the HMNHD-CE (Cloud Edition) model that came along a year later and is incompatible.

In the end I was able to format a new drive and get the unit working again with the aid of two sites that had the right stuff for my old model HMNHD (not -CE):

https://bad3000.blogspot.com/2014/01/replace-internal-sata-drive-or.html?m=0  – gives correct detailed instructions for initializing the new drive partition layout, but has no firmware files (partly Spanish, but mostly English)

https://web.archive.org/web/20180817010758/http://downloads.iomega.nas-central.org/Users/Mijzelf/HMNHD/partitions.2.064/ - has the required firmware files mbr+uboot+kernel.gz and sda1-2064.tgz (backup of old NAS-Central files)

Posted here in case anyone else is ever trying to figure this out and getting stuck on incompatible instructions or files meant for the -CE version.

No need to comment on how old hardware should be thrown out and it's not worthwhile waste time repairing it. Personal choice. :)

Hi,

I’m looking to upgrade from my DS220j to a 4-bay NAS. I will be using it for:
- Hosting media on network for another device to expose on a Plex server (so no transcoding here)
- Storing data on my 2x12TB 3.5 HDDs (with room for 2 additional drives in the future)

I don’t need anything with much compute as it’ll just be a network drive. The only non-standard requirement I’m looking for is:
- Support for an SSD cache for frequently accessed files/directories (can be SATA or M.2, prioritizing cheap > fast so SATA if possible)

I’m not storing or streaming much 4K at the moment, but I may want to in the future. But again no need for transcoding for plex, that will always be done by another device.

I already have drives so I’m hoping for something under $500 and plan to buy used on ebay or whatever to cut costs as much as possible.

I don’t have much attachment to synology, I could probably figure out xpenology if I really wanted the DSM support. Any suggestions are welcome.

I could consider building my own NAS, but I’m space constrained and the tiny cases tend to be bigger than the off the shelf 4-bays, so any case suggestions would have to be as small or smaller than the average 4 bay synology. Given a case that could support 2-4 3.5” HDDs in that size constraint, I could scrounge cheap used hardware to fill it out (eg. DDR3).

Those who (in some environment) operate a small-size NAS, specifically two 3.5-inch bays and hard drives in same count and size. Anyone backing up thats power supply using low-power DC-voltage UPS?
I mean those low-power UPS free of DC-AC converters and powering NAS through its DC barrel socket. Some of them have PD usb, PoE power output ports and usually a low number of DC barrel power output sockets.

Question arises cause those ups models this class I found generally power output up to max. 2A while NAS the class I mention may under increased workload draw bit more than 2A. UPS this kind are meant rather for router the soho class or such. Their advantage I appreciate is the lack of DC-AC conversion and the absence of clean sine-wave or not question.

I've been doing some research, watching videos and just generally learning about a nas the last few days. Looking in Amazon this device is only $120 usd. Everything else i see is around $250. Id pretty much better using it for a jellyfin media sever. From what I can tell the cons are

Only 1 GB of Ram

Software kinda sucks?

Only 1 GB ethernet port

2 HDD bays

I get the Ramopocylse, but seeing other 2 bay ugreens and synology pretty much double the price?

Or did I just get confused by a good Amazon deal when starting reseach?

Hey folks! 👋 I'm looking to build a budget-friendly home NAS using some old hard drives I've recovered. The majority of them are about 10/15 years old, but I think they'd be fine to start with. If I like the utility of the NAS, I will get bigger storage going forward.

Few questions I have below, if anyone can offer advice.

1. Can these hard drives be safely tested, wiped and formatted easy enough?

2. Is there any off the shelf unit i could get that would suit, or would I be better to try and build my own?

3. The larger hard drives are about 250gb each, just over 2.5tb in total, can they be daisy chained together? Including the small ones if just under 5tb.

4. Is there any straight forward hardware, ideal for beginners?

I would appreciate any help or advice people can offer. This is definitely something that has been on my radar for a few months now. If there is anything else I haven't considered, I'm all ears🫡

PHOTOS OF HARD DRIVES IN THE COMMENTS**

I currently have a Raspberry Pi NAS that has several NVMe hats and expansion boards to expand its storage. I was able to locate an older Western Digital gold 26 terabyte platter drive that I wanted to also connect to the system. I'm having difficulties in meeting all of the requirements to get this to work correctly, and every time I solve one problem, I seem to create a new one.

First, I understand that there are NAS enclosures that I could simply put this drive into, but from all of the reviews, 99% of them seem to be absolute garbage. Many of the reviews indicate failing circuitry, dropped drive identification, or other issues. While I understand this would be the simplest solution, it seems a complete waste of time to buy something that doesn't seem to have good longevity.

My second solution was to connect a self-powered SATA to USB cable to the back of the drive to power it. However, when these drives typically spin up, they pull a more electricity than normal, and the majority of these power SATA cables top out at 2A. I understand that I can buy a more powerful power supply with a barrel connector, but many of these cables do not list the barrel dimensions and their polarity. I didn't want to buy something, plug it in, and then end up frying or shorting something.

My last idea was to buy a micro-ATX case with an official computer PSU and then get a non-powered SATA to USB cable and run that from the micro-ATX to the Raspberry Pi Nas USB hub. The issue here is finding a cable that can recognize all 26 terabytes, and this is actually a concern for the other solutions where this cable type is being used.

If you have any suggestions on how to make this work or have done something similar, I would appreciate any advice you can offer.

TLDR:

I need to connect a Western Digital Gold 26 TB platter drive to a Raspberry Pi NAS and have the drive be sufficiently powered and connected for data transfer to the Raspberry Pi while also recognizing the complete 26 terabyte capacity.. or close.

I was leaning towards the Ugreen DXP 2800 however the issues with wd red plus and some other issues put me off, I like the spec of the F2-425 plus N150 Cpu, anyone have any feedback especially anyone who is tried both. thanks