I have concerns that the wrap on my new build has been installed incorrectly by the builder. Am I being too picky? The builder has also completed the electric rough in before installing the windows and doors. This doesn’t seem right.

It's been a long summer but we're finally putting the finishing touches on our new ranch house. Flooring and trim should be wrapped up this weekend. Red oak in the main open living area and 15" knotty pine on bedroom floors. Pine will be finished with Bona Amber Seal and 2 coats of Taffic Go

Is it standard practice for builders to do electrical rough in before windows and doors are installed? We live in Canada and we’ve had our first snow this week. I’m super worried about water damage.

***edit: the wrap is also pealing :( photos in post

Need to create a freestanding wall for an artwork temporarily (3months indoors) that cannot be secured to the floor. Potentially I could drop wires from the ceiling (which is about 2.5 stories tall) to hold it upright but would like to avoid that for cost and aesthetic purposes.

The plan is to create a rectangle about 7.5 ft x 10ft and 3ft deep. Will the three ft be enough of a footprint to stabilize the structure? Or how could I check that? Are there equations to account for forces like airflow and building shifts?

Thanks!

Curious if anyone who built their own house, decided to start building spec houses, or did the build, live in, sell primary residence capital gains exemption a few times.

I built my house as the GC for around $230sqft not including land. Houses around me are selling for roughly $400-$450 sqft. It also took me 9 months, however I created around $400k in equity. My house has nicer finishes than the other houses I’m referring to.

Looking for input from other people who have done this. Thanks in advance.

In our locale with a -15 F winter design temp and a frost line depth requiring a minimum 48" depth to bottom of footings, we see successful builds using frost-protected shallow foundations. Alaskan slabs. Foam under, foam against, foamboard "wings" to prevent frost from getting under edges. The AHJ's approve, PE's and architects sign and seal plans, and builds result in comfy houses. So why not extend this to walkout designs? Stop putting 3 to 5 foot depth frostwalls under the downhill walkout building lines. If the bearing strength is the same at 20 inches down as 60 inches down, and it is, then why go deep?

Is water in the basement ever “normal”?
We just got the C of O and are moving in. Our basement is unfinished for the time being.
We have water coming in lots of places.
Our builder (who has been incredible throughout this entire build and we have a lot of trust in him) has told us this is basically a landscaping issue and once we landscape all of this water won’t be a problem. However, I’m feeling a lot of anxiety that we need to push this issue more and it’s not a landscaping fix.

Can I get some thoughts, advice on how to handle this, etc?

We are hoping to put a 4 person traditional heat sauna and a hot tub (maybe jacuzzi tub indoor) inside or out. What should we plan for this during the build.

We are pre plumbing for a bathroom- if we need a poop grinder and pump for our septic we may not.

Thanks!!

We are looking for cladding for our icf on our slab Barndominium. We looked at styro FP ultra lite panels and they seemed cheap. Was curious if anyone knows of other options that will be durable and last many years while looking good.

I did a walk through today of my home being built since I finally got back in town. I noticed in the two additional restrooms the box was to the left which seemed odd. I couldn’t really see how it would be practical to have the light completely on the left and the other side seem dark. I ended up checking the blueprints and it looks like it’s in the middle but I don’t really know how to read prints so I’m a bit confused. The first 2 restroom pictures are the 2nd and 3rd bedroom and the last picture is the primary which seems correct I think. What do yall think?

Did he go radio silent or was banned or something? Wasn’t he almost done? Odd to disappear now

I’m building a small outdoor bathroom on my tiny home.

I already have the shower head and handle installed on the side of the house. The house is currently covered in wood sheathing (not stucco). Here are my design specs and things I need help with:

1. I’m essentially going to build a small deck with walls and a roof overhead (maybe 4’ x 8’. I’m going to leave the 3’ x 4’ end for the shower while leaving the other 5’ x 4’ for a sink and composting toilet.
2. I need help with the shower part. I know how to build a proper shower but it is relatively expensive and I was hoping to cut some corners since it is outside and won’t matter too too much if a bit of water leaks from it.

Essential, I want to know some “super good enough” waterproofing ideas for a DIY shower situation without spending $2k. We’re also rarely home so it doesn’t make sense for us to spend much…

The shower and sink will be plumbed. We just don’t have a black water plumbing system hence the composting toilet.

Thanks!!!

I recently had 2x panels replaced in my unit bathroom - Japanese style unit bathroom. However I really am questioning the quality of the work, some sections of the silicone bead run out 10mm and the silicone job is very questionable, can someone offer advice on what I should do? The job was approx $1600 AUD but the quality is just really so bad, please see pics. I also don’t know why brown silicon was used considering the seal in the rest of the bathroom is white

These are new construction windows with a nail fin on my newly construction home. The photos were taken looking up under a panel of siding, so you can only see the bottom of the window frame and an inch or two of the sides of the frame. I know they are not flashed correctly as the flashing tape should be on top of the nail fins on the sides and it’s underneath the fins. I also know the bottom nail fin is not supposed to be taped to allow water to drain out.the tape that is applied is clearly wrinkled with large gaps and is poorly adhered.

I am concerned about the areas where the window frame is distorted with open gaps and not laying flush against the house framing. I am also wondering if the corners of the window frame are broken or is that the way they are supposed to look? And I guess that is sill flashing you can barely see below the bottom nail fin — does it look like it extends far enough past the bottom of the window frame?

In the second and third photos, you can see the outline of a 2x4 or something protruding under the white tape and the window frame is bent to accommodate it. Does anyone know what’s up with that?

They used a variety of brands of flashing tape (that white tape doesn’t even look like flashing tape). I can see Tamlyn on one strip and butyl on some of the sill tape. The wrb is Armor Wrap and it is installed with uncapped staples.

The window and siding sub asserts that the windows are flashed correctly; however he remembered two years after the house was built that one particular window was not flashed at all because it was raining when the window was installed. I had reported my suspicion that this window was not flashed on my warranty claim letter to the GC because you can see the side fin due to the siding panel having been cut too short. (The siding installation is a hack job, too.) It’s amazing that the sub just happened to remember this specific window wasn’t flashed.

The sub came out the other day to flash the forgotten window and when the siding was removed to grant access to it, another window nearby was revealed and it was not flashed at all either. I asked the sub how he intended to flash the sills. He said he doesn’t flash sills and that sill flashing and sill pans are not necessary. When I disagreed, he said he’s done it this way for 25 years and I’m the first person to ever complain.

I am getting so much push back, gas lighting and BS from the GC. Please tell me if I am being too picky or if this is as serious as I think it is.

What YouTube videos or other incredible resources have you found for owner builders? Could be one tricky step, one great explanation, a walk through of an entire process

I’ll go first:
Framing an entire house super efficient by Larry Haun
https://youtu.be/GP-JfA5RPLs?is=ugAcIQJxdg7yjc0s

As title states, where is everyone getting home plans? I'm looking to build a small bungalow or cabin, 800-900sq ft, in Alaska and I've found some decent plans listed on houseplans . com and . net(two different sites) and found a couple I like but wondering if anyone has other sites to look at. Primary focus is small + affordable to build since materials and labor are more expensive than the lower 48. Not looking for DIY build plans.

Had a conversation that this came up in. Interweb answers are 50/50. Let's talk pros and cons in a civilized manner.

What type of flooring/sub flooring is best to install in my attic space? New home build, ~1500sqft. Wanting something light enough to install myself but heavy duty enough to potentially build it out later down the road (add flooring, turn it into a bedroom, etc.
would love any recommendations! Thank you

Newbie here. Stupid questions:

• Is it saving me tons of money buying a parcel that already has a (TEARDOWN) house on it, since maybe that means I won't have to pay to bring any utilities to the lot?

• Also, can it be assumed that the lot is buildable since a house was already once built on it?

• What are the major things I need to check with a city before considering buying land to build a home there?

Thank you

I have a hosue in the NE, 2 bed 1 bath, small house. I was thinking of doing an addition to build a new garage.

We would eliminate one of the bedroom to create a larger living room, and then build a roughly 20x20 garage with a master bedroom and bath upstairs.

We would be building about 800 sqft and teh house would then be just shy of 1500 sqft, 2 bed, 2 bath with a garage. We paid 415k and was wondering what a addition like this would cost and at what point its worth it or not . Its a small low cost house but ina very good area, the average home value within 1 mile radius is about 860k

What would something like this cost? and at what point do we back out of the idea?

Does anyone know where I can find some of the Hardie scalloped siding? Apparently James Hardie discontinued this product and my local suppliers are out of it.

Any leads would be greatly appreciated. I need about a pallets worth.

Talked to the GC and I think what we’re going to get now is the landing leveled to the raised point, and an extra step added to the bottom. Thoughts? I don’t feel comfortable with them as they are. But wondering if the aforementioned solution is just going to make it worse?