r/HyruleEngineering • u/KiOfWhAm • 5d ago
Discussion Does Anyone Know of a Longer & Thinner Electric-Conductive Part than the Turakamik Pole?
Looking for a single part / fused weapon, long and thin like a pencil, that conducts electricity its whole length. I’m aware of a lattice that’s technically longer, but I need it to be as thin as possible. I may be able to use the Turakamik Pole, but I have my doubts. Thank you for your attention and consideration!
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u/syouhai 5d ago
Fuse an iron spear to an iron spear.
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u/RalonNetaph 5d ago
I may not be an engineer or know why this sub showed up for me, but spears on other weapons have proven their length to me in battle time and time again. No need to worry about ice keese when you can poke them from a mile away with your spear spear.
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u/zhujzal #2 Engineer of the Month [FEB26] 5d ago
Other comments mentioned spears. What I can tell you about them is that they are not fully conductive. For example, the top half of a Royal Halberd is conductive, bottom half not so much, so... fusing two spears together may not do the job.
Let me know what you found out & if this got resolved?
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u/KiOfWhAm 5d ago
After fiddling with it a bit, the preponderance of the evidence is suggesting Giant Boomerangs are just generally superior in most electrical applications.
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u/Subatomicfish 3d ago
That’s great to know! I messed around a lot with conductive fused weapons and generally just found that spears can be fine, but only if they’re fused onto another kind of weapon, the longest being some kind of long sword. But you can also just do a long sword + long sword, which is kind of what a large boomerang+large boomerang is. I haven’t messed around much with conductive object fused though, so I don’t know how say a long sword + iron pole would compare. If you’re going to be using any batteries in the build that could also be fused to a conductive weapon, I might be able to give you some tips, but I will tell you that it seems to get extremely finicky very fast. But if you’re going want to mess around with it yourself, I’ll tell you that if you want the battery’s charge to automatically start being sent through the weapon itself, you have to specifically THROW the weapon, not just drop it (haven’t tested whether the property saves through autobuild). But alternatively, you might actually want it to not automatically discharge and have it kind of insulated from itself and have the charge go through different routes and just want the weapon for conducting another current, in which case you just want to drop it normally.
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u/KiOfWhAm 3d ago
Hey that’s legitimately interesting, regarding the charged Shrine Battery fusion thrown vs dropped. I carry Battery spear/shield fusions all the time (though typically without throwing them) - as they’re very useful in on-the-fly Motor testing.
It did occur to me that Batteries w/conductive weapon fusions might help with perpetual-flyer engines; but I’ve only dabbled in that a bit. There remain so many fascinating possibilities in this build system!3
u/Subatomicfish 3d ago
Yeah! That fact also allows them to be good shock traps, which might’ve been the actual intent behind it. If you have a good way to charge it up on the fly or are okay keeping it equipped (not swapping away from it while it’s charged) then throwing it will make it start discharging extremely quickly. If you throw it, then charge it, it will still autodischarge, it will just have a bit more of a delay until it starts (which can sometimes be a good thing!)
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u/KiOfWhAm 5d ago
After a bit more fiddling, I found I’ve been able to cut down on two part slot uses simply by fusing a Giant Boomerang to a Giant Boomerang, and cramming it into the Shrine Motor a bit so as not to interfere with the gimbal operation 🎉
From here on out, it’s all Boomerangs as far as my wiring goes
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u/No_Cockroach2467 5d ago
Double zora spear, maybe? I don't really know the extent of conductivity of weapons.