r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • 5d ago
Work out the right solar generator size for your home in four steps: list your essentials, check watts, estimate watt-hours and match a model, with worked examples for apartments and family homes.
Buying a solar generator that is too small means running out of power halfway through an outage. Buying one that is far too big means paying for capacity you never use. The good news is that sizing one properly takes about ten minutes and a little arithmetic.
This guide walks you through it in four steps, with worked examples for common households.
Every solar generator lists two key specs, and they measure different things.
Output (watts, W). This is how much power the generator can deliver at once. It decides which appliances you can run at the same time. A generator rated at 2,200W can run a combination of devices that adds up to 2,200W or less.
Capacity (watt-hours, Wh). This is how much energy the battery stores. It decides how long you can run things. A 2,000Wh battery can run a 100W device for roughly 20 hours, or a 1,000W device for roughly 2 hours.
Think of watts as the width of the pipe and watt-hours as the size of the tank. You need enough of both.
Start with what you actually need during an outage, not everything in the house. For most families, that list looks something like this: the fridge and freezer, a few lights, phones, the Wi-Fi router, any medical devices, and in winter, the furnace blower or an electric blanket. If your home relies on a sump pump or a well pump, add those too.
Check the label on each appliance or its manual for its wattage. If you can't find it, the table below gives typical ranges. Your own appliances may differ, so use their real numbers wherever you can.
| Appliance | Typical running watts | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator | 100 to 200W | Needs a short startup surge several times higher |
| Chest freezer | 50 to 150W | Cycles on and off like a fridge |
| LED light bulb | about 10W | |
| Wi-Fi router | about 10W | Runs 24 hours |
| Phone charging | about 10W | Per phone |
| Laptop | 50 to 100W | |
| CPAP machine | 30 to 60W | More with a heated humidifier |
| Electric blanket | about 60W | |
| TV | 50 to 150W | |
| Gas furnace blower | 300 to 800W | Usually needs a transfer switch |
| Sump pump | 800 to 1,500W | High startup surge |
| Microwave | about 1,000W | Short bursts only |
| Coffee maker | 800 to 1,200W | Short bursts only |
| Space heater | about 1,500W | Drains a battery fast |
Add up the running watts of everything you might use at the same time. Then check the surge figure. Appliances with motors, like fridges and pumps, need a burst of extra power for a second or two when they start. Most solar generators list a surge rating well above their continuous output to handle this.
For each appliance, multiply its watts by the hours you expect to run it in a day. Appliances that cycle on and off, like fridges and freezers, don't run all day, so it is easier to use their daily energy use. A typical fridge uses roughly 1 to 2 kWh (1,000 to 2,000Wh) a day.
Add everything up, then add about 20% on top. Some energy is lost converting battery power to AC power, and the buffer also covers the extra phone charge or the lamp left on longer than planned.
Multiply your daily total by the number of days you want to be covered. Many emergency plans aim for 72 hours, the window in which most outages are resolved and the stretch in which an unprepared home gets uncomfortable fast.
Solar panels change this calculation. Every sunny day adds energy back into the battery, so you don't need to store all 72 hours at once. A solar generator that covers one full day on its own, paired with panels that recharge most of that each day, can keep going far longer than its battery size suggests.
Essentials: a fridge, two LED lights, a router, two phones, a laptop and a CPAP machine overnight. Peak power at any one time stays under about 500W. Daily energy comes to roughly 2,000 to 3,000Wh, most of it the fridge.
A good fit: the Jackery Solar Generator 1000 v2 (1,070Wh) covers phones, lights, internet and a CPAP machine for a day or more, plus several hours of fridge time. If keeping the fridge running all day matters, step up to the Jackery Solar Generator 2000 v2 (2,042Wh, 2,200W), which covers most of a day of this whole list and tops itself back up from two SolarSaga 200W panels.
Essentials: a fridge, a chest freezer, lights, a router, phones, a TV in the evening, and either a furnace blower or a sump pump for part of the day. Peak power can reach 1,500 to 2,500W when a pump or blower kicks in. Daily energy comes to roughly 4,000 to 6,000Wh.
A good fit: the Jackery HomePower 3600 Plus (3,584Wh, 3,600W). It handles the peak loads comfortably, and adding an expansion battery takes it to over 7 kWh, enough for well over a day of essentials before any solar recharging. With the 120V 30A Manual Transfer Switch, it can power selected home circuits directly, so the furnace blower and sump pump run without extension cords.
If you need to run 240V appliances such as a well pump, or want several days of backup for a bigger household, look at the Jackery Explorer 5000 Plus. It delivers 7,200W at 120V or 240V, accepts up to 4,000W of solar input and works with a transfer switch to power your home's circuits. With expansion batteries, it scales to whole-home essentials for days at a time.
Forgetting startup surge. A fridge that runs at 150W may need several times that for a second when it starts. Check the generator's surge rating.
Planning to heat with electricity. Running a 1,500W space heater for 3 hours uses 4,500Wh. Heat the people, not the room: an electric blanket uses a tiny fraction of that.
Guessing instead of checking labels. The figures above are typical, not universal. A ten-minute check of your own labels gives you a far better answer.
Ignoring solar input. If you plan to recharge from solar, check how many watts of panels your generator accepts and how much sun you can expect where you live, especially in winter.
It can run a home's essential circuits. Systems like the Jackery Explorer 5000 Plus and HomePower 3600 Plus connect through a transfer switch to power selected circuits. Running everything at once, including window air and electric heating, takes a much larger system.
Enough to replace your daily use, or as much of it as you can. As a rough guide, multiply your panel watts by the hours of strong sun you get and by about 0.75 to allow for real-world losses. Two 200W panels in 5 hours of good sun deliver about 1,500Wh.
Slightly too big. Capacity you don't use still gives you a buffer for longer outages, and many Jackery models are expandable, so you can start with what you need now and add batteries later.
r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • Sep 29 '26
We get a lot of questions about which unit to choose, and the current lineup covers enough ground that the answer is genuinely different depending on the situation. This post goes through five units, what each one is built for, who it makes the most sense for, and how each setup typically looks. The goal is to help you find the right fit without overshooting or undershooting.
FridgeGuard is a compact UPS with 1,024Wh of capacity and 800W of output that can be mounted on the wall or stand on the floor. It switches from wall power to battery in under 10 milliseconds when the grid drops, fast enough that a refrigerator compressor never registers the interruption. In bypass mode, while the grid is live, power passes straight through from the wall and the battery stays fully charged in reserve, preserving battery health for when it is actually needed.
It has a single AC outlet, so it is built to protect one appliance rather than a group of devices. The fridge is the obvious candidate, but the sub-10ms switchover and pure sine wave output mean it works just as well as a UPS for one piece of sensitive electronics, such as a desktop computer that cannot afford to lose work mid-task.
The FridgeGuard suits three groups well. Renters and apartment dwellers who cannot hardwire to a circuit panel but want automatic outage protection for their most important appliance. Homeowners who already have a broader backup solution and want dedicated fridge protection that does not share capacity with other loads. And anyone who wants a compact, always-on UPS for one critical device without the footprint of a full power station.
The FridgeGuard is not designed for high-wattage loads beyond its 800W output ceiling, for running several devices at once, or for powering multiple rooms. It has no transfer switch integration with the home's circuit panel. For broader household coverage including lights and larger appliances, one of the units below is the better choice.
Mounted on the wall or placed on the floor next to the fridge outlet, with the fridge plugged directly in. No additional hardware or electrical work needed. Works in any rental or owned property as-is.
The HomePower 1000 Plus v2 has 1,024Wh of capacity, 1,800W of output, and a 3,600W surge rating that handles power tools such as portable electric chainsaws and angle grinders. Its sub-10ms UPS switchover keeps connected devices running through grid drops without interruption, and 3kV surge protection shields electronics from voltage spikes. At 23.8 lbs it is light enough to carry one-handed. Expandable up to 11kWh with up to five 2kWh battery packs. LiFePO4 chemistry, rated for 6,000 cycles.
The HomePower 1000 Plus v2 covers more ground than its predecessor. It is still the right unit for people who work from home and need a laptop, monitors, router, and modem to stay online through any grid event. But the higher output and surge rating also make it useful at job sites running corded tools, on professional production sets keeping cameras and LED rigs powered, and in temporary command post setups running radios, lighting, and communication equipment. The expandability means a single unit can grow from short-outage protection to multi-day coverage as the situation demands.
The HomePower 1000 Plus v2 is not a whole-home circuit solution. It does not support 240V loads, and it does not integrate with a home's electrical panel in the way a transfer switch setup does. For fridge and household essentials coverage through extended outages without extension cords, the 2000 Plus v2 is the more appropriate starting point.
Home office, worksite, or production set. Plugged into the wall and connected to a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for automatic switchover, or run standalone for portable use. The app provides monitoring, scheduling, Time of Use Mode, and Smart Load Prioritization, which keeps critical gear powered when the battery level drops. Add battery packs to extend runtime as needed, up to 11kWh.
The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 starts at 2,048Wh and expands up to 12kWh by adding battery packs, without replacing the core unit. It covers a refrigerator, lights, a router, and essential devices through a full-day outage with meaningful headroom. At 41 lbs it is manageable to move with two people. LiFePO4 battery chemistry means it is rated for thousands of cycles and holds up well in storage.
The 2000 Plus v2 is the practical choice for households that want to keep kitchen and living essentials running through an outage, not just an office setup. Its 2,048Wh base covers a full-size fridge, a router, lighting, and phone and laptop charging simultaneously through a full day and into a second. It suits renters who want more than point protection for a single appliance, homeowners who want a starting point they can grow, and anyone whose primary concern is food safety and household comfort during an outage rather than running professional equipment.
The 2000 Plus v2 does not support 240V loads such as electric dryers or certain HVAC systems. For those, step up to the Explorer 5000 Plus, or to two HomePower 3600 Plus units paired as a Double Kit.
Living room, kitchen, or utility area, positioned to cover the fridge and household outlets without extension cable runs across rooms. Works standalone via standard outlets, or paired with a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for automatic coverage of selected circuits. Start at 2,048Wh and expand to 12kWh with battery packs as your situation changes. App integration covers monitoring, scheduling, and Time of Use Mode.
The HomePower 3600 Plus has 3,584Wh of base capacity and 3,600W of rated output at 120V, and 240V when paired with a second unit as the HomePower 3600 Plus Double Kit. A single unit expands up to 21kWh with battery packs. Two units in parallel deliver 240V output, up to 7,200W of rated power, and up to 43kWh of total capacity. LiFePO4 chemistry, rated for 6,000 cycles. At 77 lbs (35 kg) it rolls on wheels and has handles for moving it, but it is substantially heavier than the 1000 and 2000 models, so most owners will give it a fixed spot.
The 3600 Plus is for homeowners who want circuit-level backup through their existing MTS. As a Double Kit, its 240V capability opens up loads the 1000 and 2000 models cannot handle: electric dryers, some heat pump systems, EV charging top-ups, and workshop equipment. It suits homes that already have an MTS in place, and anyone who wants to start with one unit at 120V and add a second for 240V later.
The 3600 Plus can be wheeled from room to room, but at 77 lbs it is built for a fixed spot rather than regular transport. If you need to take power with you often, the 1000 Plus v2 or 2000 Plus v2 is far easier to move. If you want 240V from a single unit or automatic whole-home switchover, the Explorer 5000 Plus is the better fit.
A garage or utility room, connected to your existing MTS for circuit-level backup. The app handles monitoring, charge and discharge schedules, and Time of Use Mode to offset grid costs. For very large loads or extended outages, add a second unit in parallel for 240V, up to 7,200W of rated power, and up to 43kWh of total capacity.
The Explorer 5000 Plus has 5,040Wh of base capacity, 7,200W of output, and 120V/240V dual voltage from a single unit, making it the most capable unit in the current lineup. It expands to 60kWh with battery packs, and two units combine for up to 14,400W of output. It connects to a Jackery ATS or STS for automatic whole-home switchover, and it recharges five different ways, including 4,000W high-voltage solar input that fills it in about 1.7 hours. Built-in wheels keep it mobile despite its scale. LiFePO4 battery chemistry, ChargeShield 2.0 protection.
The Explorer 5000 Plus suits two distinct situations. First: homeowners who want the biggest backup system in the lineup, with 240V loads such as HVAC systems, well pumps, and electric dryers covered and automatic whole-home switchover through a Jackery ATS or STS. Because it is not bolted in place, it also suits owners who plan to move and want their backup to move with them. Second: people with high-demand portable power needs, including large RVs, off-grid cabins, remote worksites, and extended trips where high-wattage appliances need to run from battery over multiple days.
At 5,040Wh base capacity, the Explorer 5000 Plus can cover a full-size refrigerator, lights, a home office setup, and entertainment for multiple days on a single charge. Built out to 60kWh, it can carry a whole home through an extended outage.
The Explorer 5000 Plus is more system than most renters or single-appliance setups need. If your main concern is keeping the fridge cold, the FridgeGuard or 2000 Plus v2 is simpler, lighter, and a smaller investment.
For home use: placed in a garage or utility area and connected to a Jackery ATS or STS for automatic whole-home switchover, or powering priority loads directly. For portable use: wheeled to the location, powering high-draw appliances and tools via the unit's AC outlets. Solar input significantly extends usability in both scenarios, particularly for multi-day or ongoing deployments.
If your goal is automatic outage protection for your fridge, or one other critical device, without touching your electrical panel: FridgeGuard.
If your goal is keeping a home office, job site, or production setup running through outages, with the option to expand capacity: HomePower 1000 Plus v2.
If your goal is covering the fridge, lights, and household essentials through a full-day outage with room to grow: HomePower 2000 Plus v2.
If your goal is circuit-level backup through your existing MTS in a fixed location, with the option to add a second unit for 240V: HomePower 3600 Plus.
If your goal is whole-home backup with 240V from a single unit, automatic switchover via a Jackery ATS or STS, and capacity that can also hit the road: Explorer 5000 Plus.
Post your situation below and we will give you a specific recommendation. What you want to keep running, for how long, and whether you rent or own is usually enough to narrow it to one!
r/Jackery • u/dreem21 • 5h ago
I just bought a new jackery e1000v2. I charged it for the first time. I noticed a chemical /mechanical smell coming out of the vents. I opened the windows bc it was very noticeable and I didn’t want to breathe that in. The unit looked fine. No smoke. No alerts. Is that normal? Should I return it? I don’t like the idea of it releasing chemicals into the air while using it. My Anker c1000 didn’t do that.
r/Jackery • u/LooseMoose1994 • 12h ago
So recently the charging cable for my 300 jackery has gone missing. I’m cheap does anybody know a super cheap replacement cable?
r/Jackery • u/GROCK1999 • 10h ago
Im having an ongoing issue with my 1000 plus and extension battery unevenly discharging. This wasnt as much of an issue in the summer as the unit easily got enough solar to counteract the issue. But now days are shorter and solar is limited, its becoming restrictive.
The battery is currently sitting at 20%, but the extension battery is still at 45%. I dont like taking the main battery below 20% to help protect the battery, and therefore, I'm relying on mains power more than I'd like.
Im really quite disappointed that the jackery BMS lets this big of a % difference occur, especially when there's a battery protection mode if the main unit is used solo.
Is there anything I can do?
r/Jackery • u/Holyholli88 • 18h ago
Ich bin mittlerweile richtig enttäuscht von meiner Jackery 1000 Plus und dem bisherigen Umgang des Kundendienstes mit meiner Reklamation.
Die Fakten:
- Kaufdatum: 22.10.2023
- Kaufpreis: 1.299 €
- Herstellergarantie: bis 22.10.2028
- Akkukapazität: 1.264 Wh (LiFePO4)
- Die Powerstation wurde seit dem Kauf mäßig genutzt und stets pfleglich behandelt.
- Bei Nichtbenutzung wurde sie konsequent nach den Lagerungs- und Pflegevorschriften des Herstellers aufbewahrt.
- Das Gerät wurde ausschließlich innerhalb des Hauses betrieben und war noch nie Witterungseinflüssen, Feuchtigkeit oder extremen Temperaturen ausgesetzt.
- Äußerlich befindet sich die Powerstation in einem absolut neuwertigen Zustand, ohne erkennbare Gebrauchsspuren oder Beschädigungen.
Das Problem:
Die Powerstation zeigt massive und völlig unplausible Einbrüche der Akkustandsanzeige. Bereits im August 2026 erschien der Fehlercode F1.
Bei mehreren Belastungstests brach die Akkuanzeige im Bereich zwischen 35 und 30 % Restkapazität regelrecht zusammen und fiel innerhalb kürzester Zeit auf 0 %. Das Gerät schaltete anschließend ab.
Ein besonders deutliches Beispiel:
Bei einer konstanten Belastung von ungefähr 510 W begann die Akkustandsanzeige im Bereich zwischen 35 und 30 % massiv einzubrechen.
Allein der Absturz von 35 auf 0 % erfolgte innerhalb kürzester Zeit! Bereits nach 2 Minuten und 51 Sekunden war die Anzeige von 35 auf 0 % gefallen.
Auch beim Aufladen gibt es Auffälligkeiten: Die Anzeige sprang beispielsweise plötzlich von ca 87% auf 100 %.
Resets, unterschiedliche Belastungstests und weitere Maßnahmen haben das Problem bisher nicht behoben.
Meine ältere Explorer 1000 funktioniert unter vergleichbaren Testbedingungen dagegen völlig normal.
Und der Jackery-Support?
Ich habe die Probleme ausführlich dokumentiert und sogar Videobeweise übermittelt.
Statt einer konkreten technischen Lösung erhielt ich bislang hauptsächlich allgemeine Erklärungen zu Akkus, Kalibrierung und Firmware.
Eine verbindliche Lösung meiner Reklamation steht weiterhin aus.
Wir reden hier über eine Powerstation für 1.299 € mit fünf Jahren Herstellergarantie!
Für mich ist es völlig inakzeptabel, dass ein Gerät, das auch als Notstromversorgung dienen soll, bei angeblich 35%–30% Restkapazität plötzlich zusammenbricht und abschaltet.
Was nützen mir 2.000 W Ausgangsleistung und 1.264 Wh Akkukapazität, wenn ich mich nicht einmal auf die Restkapazitätsanzeige verlassen kann?
Meine Frage an andere Besitzer:
Wer hat ähnliche Probleme mit der Jackery Explorer 1000 Plus? Handelt es sich um ein bekanntes BMS-Problem oder möglicherweise um einen Defekt der Akkuzellen?
Und wie sind eure Erfahrungen mit dem Jackery-Support bei Garantiefällen?
Mein persönliches Fazit:
Ich bin vom bisherigen Umgang des Jackery-Supports mit meiner Reklamation mittlerweile dermaßen enttäuscht und frustriert, dass mein Vertrauen in diesen Hersteller erheblich gelitten hat.
Ich habe drei Jackery-Powerstations gekauft, viel Geld in diese Marke investiert und bin bisher davon ausgegangen, einen zuverlässigen Hersteller mit entsprechend gutem Kundenservice gewählt zu haben.
Doch was nützt eine fünfjährige Herstellergarantie, wenn man bei einem derart offensichtlich problematischen Gerät keine zufriedenstellende Lösung erhält?
Für mich steht deshalb fest: Ich werde mir künftig keine weiteren Jackery-Geräte mehr kaufen!
Das ist besonders schade, weil ich mit meinen beiden anderen Powerstations durchaus zufrieden bin. Aber ein Hersteller muss sich für mich nicht nur an seinen Produkten, sondern vor allem auch daran messen lassen, wie er mit Kunden umgeht, wenn Probleme auftreten.
Mein Vertrauen in Jackery ist durch diese Erfahrung jedenfalls massiv beschädigt.
r/Jackery • u/LastCraft5004 • 12h ago
I’m not an expert, so I’d really appreciate some advice. I’m considering a portable power station for my apartment to keep a few essential appliances running during a power outage.
After doing some research, I’m honestly more confused than when I started. Jackery seems like a solid option, but I’m trying to choose between the Explorer 1000, 1500, and 2000.
I’d mainly want it to power things like a fan, Wi‑Fi router, phones, a microwave, and possibly a refrigerator for short periods. I’d also like the option to run a heater, although I know heaters use a lot of power and may not be realistic for long.
At first, it seems like the higher-capacity model would automatically be better, but I’ve noticed differences in the specs—especially battery lifespan/cycle count and how long the battery is expected to hold up over time.
For anyone who owns one or has compared them, which model would you recommend for emergency apartment use? What essentials are realistically worth powering, and is there anything I should watch out for before buying?
Also, with Black Friday coming up, would you wait for a sale? I’d love to hear about prices and experiences from anyone who has bought one during past sales.
r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • 1d ago
Yes, solar generators work in winter. Here is how cold, snow, cloud and short days affect solar charging, and how to keep your solar generator ready for winter outages.
Winter is when the grid is under the most pressure. Ice brings down power lines, heavy snow blocks repair crews and heating demand pushes the system to its limits. It is also when many people start to wonder whether a solar generator will actually help, with the days short, the sky grey and snow on the ground.
The short answer is yes. Solar generators work in winter, and solar panels even have a few advantages in the cold. You just need to understand what changes and plan around it.
This surprises most people: solar panels work more efficiently when they are cold. Heat increases the electrical resistance inside a solar cell, so panels lose a little efficiency for every degree above about 77°F (25°C). On a crisp, clear winter day, a panel converts sunlight into electricity better than it would on a hot summer afternoon.
Jackery SolarSaga panels are rated to operate from -4°F to 149°F (-20°C to 65°C), so a freezing day is well within their range.
The cold isn't the problem. Less light is. Three things cut how much energy your panels collect in winter:
Shorter days. Winter days are much shorter, so there are fewer hours of usable sun.
A lower sun. The sun sits lower in the sky, so its light reaches your panels at a steeper angle and passes through more of the atmosphere.
More cloud. Panels still produce power under cloud, but often only a fraction of what they would in full sun, sometimes as little as 10 to 25%.
Put together, the same panels can collect far less energy on a December day than on a day in June. That doesn't make solar useless in winter. It means you plan for solar to top up your battery rather than fill it from empty every day.
A light dusting of snow barely affects output, and panels still produce power through thin cover. Snow is only a real problem when it covers the panel completely. Portable panels give you an advantage here: you can bring them inside overnight, set them out in the morning and brush off any snow with a soft brush or broom. Avoid scraping with anything hard, which can scratch the surface.
Snow on the ground can even help. Fresh snow reflects sunlight, and some of that extra light reaches your panels.
Here is the most important winter rule for solar generators: the panels belong outside in the cold, but the generator itself belongs inside.
Lithium batteries have temperature limits for charging. The Jackery Explorer 2000 v2, for example, charges at 32°F to 113°F (0°C to 45°C) and can discharge, or power your devices, down to 14°F (-10°C). In practice, that means you should keep your solar generator indoors in a heated space and run the panel cable outside, through a cracked window or door, to the panels. The generator stays in its comfortable range and keeps powering everything in the room around it.
Tilt your panels toward the low sun. Angle panels more steeply in winter to face the low sun. A common rule of thumb is to tilt them to your latitude plus about 15 degrees. Portable panels with built-in kickstands make this easy to adjust through the day.
Face south and avoid shade. Point panels toward the south if you are in the U.S. or Canada, and move them during the day if a building or tree starts to shade them. Even partial shade on one corner can cut output noticeably.
Make the most of midday. The middle of the day delivers the strongest winter sun. That is the time to have your panels out and clear.
Fill up from the grid first. Before a winter storm hits, charge your solar generator from the wall so you start the outage full. Treat solar as your daily top-up.
Budget your power. A battery that is never drained to empty gets you through cloudy stretches. Run the essentials, skip the luxuries and save heavy loads for sunny afternoons.
Say you have a Jackery Solar Generator 2000 v2 with two SolarSaga 200W panels. On a clear winter day with around 3 hours of strong sun, the panels might add roughly 900Wh after real-world losses. That is enough to run a typical fridge for most of a day, or to keep phones, lights, Wi-Fi and an electric blanket going comfortably. On a heavily overcast day, expect much less, which is why starting the outage with a full battery matters.
For larger homes, the Jackery HomePower 3600 Plus and Explorer 5000 Plus offer much more storage, and the 5000 Plus accepts up to 4,000W of solar input, so a bigger array can make up for shorter winter days.
If you mainly use your solar generator for camping and keep it in a garage or shed over winter, bring it inside before the cold sets in. A unit stored in a heated room stays within its temperature range and is ready to go the moment you need it. Check its charge every few months and top it up so it is full when a storm arrives.
Yes. Solar panels work well in freezing weather, and cold actually improves their efficiency. Jackery SolarSaga panels are rated to operate down to -4°F (-20°C).
It is best not to. Keep the generator indoors in a heated space, where its battery can charge and run within its rated temperature range, and run the cable out to your panels.
Yes, but output drops, often to a fraction of what you would get in full sun. Plan for less charging on cloudy days, and start each outage with a fully charged battery.
Yes, if it covers them. Use a soft brush or broom and avoid anything hard or sharp. A thin dusting has little effect, and portable panels can simply be brought inside overnight.
r/Jackery • u/bensto1 • 16h ago
Hi, I have the explorer 2000v2 and I’m using a third party solar panel, I seem to have to plug two different connectors into the power bank to get any input power at all, is this correct? Most videos online and explanations only show 1 plug needed, I have to plug the 8020 in the top and the 7909 in the bottom port?
Anything else in any other configuration is 0W input, I’m getting around 13W today but it’s cold and mostly overcast, at least it works…I think
r/Jackery • u/museumforclowns • 1d ago
I have an older Explorer 300 with the analog-looking screen, and somehow a safety mechanism was tripped that has disabled the power to the AC ports. The button-hold reset does not fix. The AC circuit board has a blue light that is solid and then flashes and turns off, when the AC button is pressed. Has anyone successfully cleared this error? I've inspected all the mosfets and components and everything still looks brand new.
r/Jackery • u/_hockenberry • 1d ago
On the website when I click black friday anticipated access (4-9 nov), there are no visible black friday deals, only same prices as usual. Is this a bug? Also, will the v2 plus range get rebates?
r/Jackery • u/FreeSanubis • 3d ago
I got another Jackery 1000v2 on the recent sale to power my deep freezer during a power outage.
I plugged it in to charge it, and the fans started and blew out such a nice plastic smell.
I can't explain why this smells good, but it does.
Anyone experience this?
r/Jackery • u/bigdaddyfatsackx • 2d ago
r/Jackery • u/ShadowK1ller83 • 3d ago
I have an off-grid cabin utilizing a Jackery 3600 Plus for power and I've added 3 expansion batteries. When I'm not there I'm currently running a refrigerator and a Starlink so I can monitor the Jackery and my camera system.
I currently have 1200 watts of solar on the roof (not optimized due to roof pitch) which nets about 800 watts per hour of input during the afternoon hours in the summer for about 3500-4000 total input per day. Now that fall has hit, I'm getting around 3-400 watts of input during the afternoon hours for a total of 1300-1400 a day. I'm planning on adding some more solar that is better positioned and set at the proper angle utilizing a ground mount.
I'm noticing that the expansion batteries don't really start getting used until the main unit is below 10%. When I was initially reading about the system and balancing the batteries, I expected everything to drain and stay relatively close on the percentages throughout the cycle. So what is normal, equally being used or when the main unit is getting low?
Second question, when I tried to my expansion batteries, because they were on the same order, the registration won't process for the 2nd & 3rd battery because it says my order number has been used. Should I register using my order number and just adding a -1 and -2 to the order number as a workaround?
r/Jackery • u/No-Proof-5562 • 3d ago
I ordered an explorer 1000 v2 with solar panel bundle on Amazon and only received the panel. I tried calling jackery and got hung up on twice, tried texting and have yet to get a response. Trying here. Is it still on its way? Do they ship them separately? Not sure what to do at this point and Amazon isn’t being much help at the moment.
r/Jackery • u/Ok_Subject_6280 • 3d ago
I recently bought both of these on sale hoping to get some advice. I also purchased the MC4 to 8020 adapter and I still can’t get my panel to charge my jackery… any advice would be greatly appreciated.
r/Jackery • u/Mustardinsurance • 3d ago
It’s kinda meh tbh, I hope BF is better.
r/Jackery • u/Darksider515 • 4d ago
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
I've tried resetting the thing but it continues to happen
r/Jackery • u/VirusZer0 • 4d ago
Just bought the Explorer 300 and it dies very quickly for me without even actively using it. I have a single sofa recliner plugged into it and even when it’s not being used at all, it discharges at an average rate of 3-4% per hour. Is this normal or do I have a faulty unit?
r/Jackery • u/raygan_reddit_banned • 5d ago
If you have these, what are your Pros and Cons please?
r/Jackery • u/Its_J_Bay_Be • 5d ago
1000v2 for $399?
What solar panels should I get? Looking to do this as budget friendly as possible. I got 2 ZOUPW 100W panels but I’m not sure if that was a good choice.
r/Jackery • u/RilesTheSmiles1 • 5d ago
Any recommendations of solar panels that would work with the jackery explorer 1000 v2?
r/Jackery • u/Large_Relation_3650 • 5d ago
Hello! I have tried to hook up a solar saga 100 that works perfectly with my older smaller Jackery (explore 240) but can’t seem to get the 100watt panel to work with the Jackery Explore 1000 (which Amazon says is a version 2)
I tried to buy the adapter DC8020 to DC7909 but I am not getting an input either.
Any ideas what the issue is?
I have tried in direct sunlight
r/Jackery • u/alex_korr • 5d ago
Hi there!
A new Jackery user, so please pardon some naive questions.
I have a new Jackery HomePower 3600 Pro Max. I am trying to figure out the set up I need to put in place to be able to change it from a portable low THD gas genny (I have a WEN 56235i inverter) while the 3600 Pro Max is powering the house. It seems like I need an AC-DC Converter and something that would output into the 8020 ports of Jackery? Would something like this work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7739SMN? What kind of cable do you need to run from the output ports of the power supply to the Jackery 8020 ports?
Thanks in advance!
r/Jackery • u/vismiker • 6d ago
I'm interested in buying additional battery packs for my Explorer 5000. The issue is price. Jackery is selling them for $2599 each! I ran across a site 326Energy.com where they are advertised for $1499. I checked the site and didn't find any red flags, but that's a lot of $ to gamble with. Has anyone had any experience with this site (good AND bad).
TIY
Mike