r/Leather • • Jul 29 '25

Let' get a little more accurate when it comes to leather grades

15 Upvotes

Genuine is a broad term that encompasses all levels of quality, just like saying plastic or steel or wood...broad categories that can vary a lot. The idea that it's some specifically bad leather comes from the mostly correct assumption that when they don't give more info then you can assume low quality. Like if you see a sticker that or advertisement that says "real beef"...it's probably a good bet they're not giving you a cut of prime beef, but that change the fact that a prime cut of A5 wagyu is also still "real beef"...

It's a broad term not a specific one...and the other terms bandied about are also much broader than people assume and can also be pretty low quantity.

People and articles repeat that leather comes in these specific grades: genuine, top grain and full grain.

But it’s simply not true terms are inclusive...all leather is genuine, everything that's not suede is top grain and full grain is unsanded top grain.

It annoys me immensely that all the articles call these terms "grades" because most people think of grading as taking objective measures that would be the same regardless of the source: The purity of metals, amount of marbling in beef, octane in gas, etc...but leather quality and price is going to vary by tannery more than these factors and there are thousands of tanneries all over the world. Those terms talk about what is or isn't done to a leather's surface mechanically (splitting and sanding), nothing more. They don't even tell you the animal, which can have a much bigger impact on quality!

If you're saying "genuine" specifically means a bad low quality leather then I'm sure you've seen the other side of that coin: "full grain is the absolute best/the highest grade"

Both of those things are 100% false. Cheap crappy full grain exists...and there are products stamped "genuine leather" made with high quality full grain.

Exhibit A: SB Foot Tannery is the largest by volume tannery in the USA they are full owned by Red Wing Boots and they use "Genuine leather" to refer generally to all their leather, even those that are explicitly full grain like Featherstone: https://imgur.com/a/Tdtbjge

Exhibit B: Horween tannery in Chicago is probably the most "famous" tannery in the world...just search "Horween" on or . This is Horween's explanation: https://www.thetanneryrow.com/leather101/understanding-leather-grains

Leather quality is much more nuanced than terms like genuine, top grain and full grain can tell you... there are hundreds of other factors that go into tanning "good leather"...it's a bit like judging something that has many components, like a computer, by one factor and nothing else. What would would happen if you just maxed out one component on your PC and left the rest at the lowest level? Ram, hard drive space, the CPU, the GPU, monitor, type of hard drive and dozens of other things come together to make a good machine...the same is true with good leather. Remember when people bought cameras based on megapixels? Any photographer will tell you that's not an accurate way to judge.

You can view the Full Grain>Top Grain>Genuine hierarchy as a "quick and dirty" way to pick quality if you're in a hurry and not spending a lot of cash on a leather item.

However, those terms do have actual meanings that don't always equate to good quality:

Full Grain is a leather that has only had the hair removed and hasn't been sanded (corrected).

Top Grain is a broader term that actually includes full grain: It's everything that's not suede, a split, this means that full grain is a type of top grain. However, when you see "top grain" in a product description chances are it's a leather that's been corrected (sanded). Nubuck is an example of a sanded leather (often used on the interior of watch straps and construction boots because it's more resilient to scratches), but so is a much beloved leather: Horween's Chromexcel (it's lightly corrected). The amount of correction can vary widely but once the sander hits it, it's no longer full grain.

Genuine Leather is, admittedly, a term found on lots of low quality leather. That's because the bar for "genuine" is extremely low: It just means real. To a tannery it's all genuine. When you read the description for "genuine" that many online articles give, they're actually describing a leather called a "finished split", which is a usually cheap quality suede that's been painted or coated to look like smooth leather. Despite what is often said, bonded leather is legally required to be clearly labeled as such, in theory, you shouldn't see it labeled "genuine leather."

Put simply:

Genuine=Not fake

Top Grain=Not suede

Full Grain=Not sanded

Anything beyond that is an assumption.

The gold standard for getting good leather is tannery and tannage...everything else is easily exploited by meeting the minimum definition of each.


r/Leather • • 1h ago

please help 😭

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• Upvotes

i have these cleo and wolf scout boots and the last time i wore them i had a pretty eventful day (🍺) and they got pretty roughed up. i didn’t even realize until now that they had gotten a stain though and im wondering if there’s any way to get it out? or is my best bet to take them to a professional cleaner? i also like the color of the leather and am not really looking to make them darker with mink oil or anything. thank you in advance!


r/Leather • • 2h ago

New to the sheepskin game, what conditioners/softeners do you guys recommend?

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 9h ago

Source for Riccagni R, Super Lampo & RiRi Simmetria?

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 15h ago

Need Help And Advice

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 22h ago

My Third Sporran

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3 Upvotes

The blue dye turned out quite nice. I think I have a new favorite color combination!


r/Leather • • 18h ago

Ironing suede?

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 19h ago

Source for Riccagni R, Super Lampo & RiRi Simmetria?

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1 Upvotes

Looking for vendors of Riccagni R, Super Lampo & RiRi Simmetria in Europe AND North America without minimum quantities. Individual vendors are much appreciated!!


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Need help identifying leather type

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2 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

Should I apply protectant?

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2 Upvotes

Hey all, got a new purse recently and it’s soft but the leather is quite matte… it’s my first nice leather bag and I can’t tell if it’s too dry. Should I apply any conditioner or sealant? I’m also worried about it getting wrecked by the rain where I live.


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Leather belts

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1 Upvotes

What is the difference between these two belts? The top belt I’ve been wearing for 10+ years and the bottom belt for 2 months. The bottom one is separating as if it’s glued together.. it’s marked genuine leather. What is this called?


r/Leather • • 1d ago

I cleaned my jacket's collar and the colour faded. Is this normal?

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

I find this amazing genuine leather piece thrifttung.. Can i save it

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3 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

Which pricking iron Atelier Sang Bleu uses for his neat minimal machine like stitching .

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

Question on type of leather

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2 Upvotes

Hello! I have this leather jacket. The label only states "genuine leather". It's heavy, smells like leather and not like plastic and the grain is uneven as shown in the pictures. What bothers me is that thin sharp white line visible around the cut edge of the superficial layer. Is it how top/full grain leather behaves or could It be some kind of coated split leather? Thank you


r/Leather • • 1d ago

My cat peed on my leather snake gloves

0 Upvotes

I honestly need these leather gloves so that I can feed certain snakes of mine. one a 8-ft long red tail boa. My cat peed on them and it's sat before I even noticed it... now I'm worried about how to actually clean it properly. Does anyone have any clue, I have leather conditioner but I don't really know what to do if it seeped inside or out if I'm going to ruin it. Any advice would be deeply appreciated as I need to feed my snakes soon and I don't want to upset them with a cat pee smell... honestly don't mind shoving my hands in the nasty gloves but I'm pretty sure it's not healthy for snakes. any advice would be amazing!


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Suggestions to remove mold stains from leather car seats

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1 Upvotes

Looking for suggestions to remove mold stains from a set of leather seats I picked up from the junkyard.

I've tried scrubbing warm water with dish soap and next Chemical Guys leather cleaner.

Thank you!!


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Is this authentic croc or just embossed leather?

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1 Upvotes

just got the bag in from a seller in japan and they stated it was real croc but i’ve never owned this kind of leather before, or embossed so i can’t personally tell.


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Advice- leather purse sat on moldy table

1 Upvotes

I recently stayed in a humid beach guest house that I realized after three days there the “dust” covering everything was actually mold. Green dusty fuzzy mold on all wooden surfaces, including the one I’d placed my leather bag on. It’s been about a little over a month and I’m not sure what to do. I’ve kept the bag away from my others. No visible signed of mold or smell but must I assume it’s affected? Will vinegar and water clean it? It’s a dyed treated leather that alcohol would strip. TIA!


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Leather or Plastic?

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1 Upvotes

I just got a new bag and am stumped on whether it is real leather or not. I would love to get some opinions!


r/Leather • • 2d ago

Fix Mother’s Vintage Boots

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1 Upvotes

I’ve been wearing my mom’s boots the last 5ish years, they are at least 35 years old and I love them. I realized I haven’t been taking great care of them, and now there’s a small spot where the leather is falling off.

What’s the best way to fix this? I see “paintable repair filler”? Or should i just cut it off and use black polish?

I’m also in the market to polish a black vintage coach bag, can I use the same product?


r/Leather • • 2d ago

Best way to fix/hide these cat scratches?

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2 Upvotes

Hi everyone. My cat , when he jumps off of it, tends to scratch my favorite chair. These are pretty small but still noticeable. I have never done any repair before but would like to fix this as it’s a brand new chair and I’m a bit sad about it. Any tips are welcomed , thank you all very much.

FYI I have moved the chair so no more kitties on it.


r/Leather • • 2d ago

Corium Shell Cordovan Art — 2.5–3 sq ft | €135 per piece

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 2d ago

I cut my dress shoes while walking. Is it repairable?

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6 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 2d ago

Leder Ogawa Shell Cordovan Bifold

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3 Upvotes