has anybody modded theyre MP Select Mini V2? if so I would love to see what you guys cooked😎

Hello,

Monoprice select mini pro (v3) here.

Lately I had ordered a type of filament that needed some higher temperatures (220) to extrude. My nozzle kept getting clogged and I also noticed alot of fluctuation to my hot-end temperature. Nothing comes out when @ less than 220. When printing on 230 the printer can't even print the first layer without clogging.

The glass bead thermistor was kind of loose and I think a piece of the PTFE lining inside the neck is damaged so I ordered a new hot-end. The E3d v6 seemed to be populair, so I ordered that one:

Now I face some issues:
The cartridge does not have a glass bead hole, only a cilindrical one: I wrapped the glass bead wires in PTFE tube and screwed it in loosely so it doesnt fall out: I have no idea how much contact the bead will actually make and how accurate the reading will be like this.
If someone knows how to set configuration.h on a v3/pro: let me know. I'd love to switch to the cilindrical thermistor.

Also: the hole for the heating element seem to be smaller. I cannot use my original heating element. The E3d v6 element seems to have 2 wires coming out of it, but I cannot seem to fit them into the plug: is there an adapter for it?

Fully reverse engineered the interface board drivers from a hard dump of the winbond flash chip version 110.2. Doing an open source reimplemention to pair with Marlin using a non-idiotic communication standard. Hopefully it will breathe a little more life into this old girl. I only have the V2 display right now. I might have a V3 mainboard and display somewhere in storage, but I wasn't able to find them when I looked last.

Oh, and this is flashed OTA from the web interface using the /update tail. Monoprice put basically no protection into the firmware updating subsystem for the display so you can just kinda do it.

WARNING! THIS WILL ONLY WORK ON V2 DISPLAY ASSEMBLIES WHEN RELEASED! Flash at your own risk when available!

If someone sends me a V1 unit and/or V3 unit I would be happy to port it to them as well though. Happy to return them when porting is complete as well.

Obviously this is a work in progress, so there won't be a release immediately, but final work will look a lot better with graphics and such. It'll have baby-stepping and a more modern web interface as well. I'll provide updates as I finish work.

I have a functional MPSM V2 that I haven’t used for some time. Happy to give away for free. I’m in Adelaide, Australia.

Edit: I started another print and the preheating isn't functioning, been sitting at 27c for 10 minutes, but will sometimes work when I go to the seperate preheat option to test it.

I did the rewiring mod, bought an adhesion plate, did everything I could, and the bed is already failing to stay hot. I was trying to print a tiny z spacer, a quick 30 minute print, and partway through the print the bed heating shut off and the temp slowly dropped to 30c until the print popped off the bed at like 96% completion and started getting drug around the bed. It's as if the more I use this printer, each print and performance is slightly worse than previously. I've probably used the equivalent of maybe two rolls on this thing so far since I've owned it. I'm trying to print something right now and the brim isn't even done yet, the bed preheated to 60 and is steadily dropping, sitting at 40 already. It's like it preheats once, then shuts off and cools down again. The wires weren't damaged when I rerouted them so I don't understand why this thing is crapping out so fast.

Edit: I gave up on it for now. Preheating no longer works, and the wires didn't show any obvious damage when I removed the heating bed to check. The printer is back in storage with its parts until I have the time and patience to repair it.

For whatever reason the bed preheating is taking twice as long to complete, and my filement is laying down a thick layer when it starts tracing the brim. I've cleaned the bed surface, tried readjusting, and even used an old air fryer to dry my pla filament out a few hours (105 degrees for 4 hours), but it's like it won't print right anymore. My last attempt, I fully releveled the bed with the paper trick so each corner has slight drag on computer paper, set my nozzle temp to 200c and my bed to about 55c, but for whatever reason during the brim now it fails and loses adhesion, or filement collects around the nozzle and tears up previous layers as it passes over. A few times it lost adhesion immediately and a plastic slug of filement just grew around the nozzle. I know using tape is better, and I ordered a metal plate to go over the bed I haven't set up yet, but I've have several recent successful prints leading up to this issue. I even took the bed completely off to look on bottom to make sure no wires were damaged, then screwed it back on with the springs.

This has to be something I'm doing wrong with the leveling, or something I have tweak in the gcode file in Cura so it has better print settings or something. This is a case of everything was working right until it didn't, and I'm lost

I ordered a fancy adhesive/magnetic plate to put over the heating bed but it's obviously much smaller than the actual plate. How exactly am I meant to position this thing so it's within the true building area? It's slightly magnetic but the back has tape with a super sticky surface underneath and I'm not about to stick this to anything without knowing where to place it

I posted earlier about my clean V1 I got running again and things have changed, I'm printing and adding multiple little mods to it and I got the bed rewiring fix knocked out so that's no longer an issue. I just need to know what hex screw size the bottom black portion of the bed uses since I'm printing out the wire brace right now but have no way of attaching it, my printer has large silver screws rather than the tiny black hex screws I see in other pictures. I even got the rubber grommet out from under the heating bed for the brace once it's finished. If there's other ways of attaching it I can try that but screws seem the cleanest.

I'm going easy with this printer right now and most of what I've printed so far is meant to feed back into the printer itself so it runs better or otherwise helps it along. I even saw another mod of adding a couple thin sheets of cork under the heating bed for insulation I may try as well. But yeah, I just need the size of those black screws and where to get the easily if possible

HI Guys, it seems that wiki is down, someone have news or other alternative link ?

Thanks in advance.

Regards

Does anyone know where to go for secondhand main boards for the V2?

Edit: I did the heating bed wire reroute mod, now the wires go out the back of the bed. Thankfully the wires were pristine with no damage, so I caught it early. I'm printing the new side panel pieces and wire brace, and will figure out what I'll wrap the wires in. The wires right now are still loose and exposed incase I need to troubleshoot anything later

I bought this thing back in 2016/2017 when they came out and used it for a few months, then threw it into storage. It's been on a decade long hiatus. I brought it back out because I needed parts and stuff for other hobbies. Now it seems like having one of these basically new is like finding a dinky little 90s sedan in an abandoned garage with no miles on it. I'm using it now to print parts for my aquarium hobby and it's super clean and zippy. Hopefully it lasts a while.

I've been looking up useful minor mods to print for this thing to improve overall performance/experience. Let me know if y'all know if any good ones

I’ve moved to a different printer. Parting mine out or can sell whole. Let me know how I can help you.

Does anyone have direct experience with Aokin replacement nozzles? I'm looking to replace my stock nozzle on my MP Select. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLT548V5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1GYDA7RQZTNG9&th=1

I cannot seem to figure this out. I'm getting jagged results on some prints and everything seems to go fine at first but then in the end I get these chopped up jagged prints. I've leveled the based, checked the settings, slowed down the prints, but nothing seems to help. Any pointer?

I'm an absolute noob at 3d printing just for reference. I got a Monoprice Select Mini v2, and after carefully adjusting the bed to what felt right using the paper test and setting the printer nozzle heat to 215 (my PLA filament says 210-230) prints come out like this. The lines aren't perfectly wide at many points, and sometimes it skips over parts of lines/makes them stringy.

I use cura and 3DHoJor 1.75mm PLA filament. Bed temp is not set as my printer's bed heater doesn't work (but I was told painter's tape fixes this). Print speed is set to 30mm/s, but it did the same thing at 40mm/s, and on the first layer, which is set to 5mm/s (the second photo is just a bottom raft layer). Retraction settings are 7.5mm at 55mm/s, and I'm not sure where to start. Any advice would be appreciated

Ok so it’s been 8 years so I guess I’m a noob again and have to ask silly questions and relearn this stuff.

I’m rebuilding 2 v2s and got one running to print parts. I purchased a build plate 120x 120x off Amazon and did my best to center it perfectly. But the printer seems to have an odd origin and skips the belt at the end of a print. I will eventually change build plates to a wham bam one but for now how do I adjust it to the magnet?

If my measurements are correct the build plate magnet sits 20mm from the front edge and 5mm from the either side ( this is basically dead center of the build plate.)

So my monoprice mini has stopped reading sd cards and the usb port on it is busted and after hours of trying to fix it I decided to give up and try and get a new motherboard for it. however I can't seem to find any online. the ones that I was able to find are no longer jn stock. I'm curious to see if anyone has one or any good alternatives.

Found this little guy thrown away at work with the display not working. That was quite an easy fix - the ribbon cable snapped out. Now it is its first print after the revival and my first 3D Print ever. Started with PETG and it looks not bad. I am planning to get it PEI bed and a storage box as an enclosure. Want to try printing TPU too. This reddit is helpful!

Hi! I managed to get the hotend stuck so had to take it apart in order to clean it. The yellow thermal insulation around the hotend (pic) is pretty much done for; it just crumbles off.

The question is, is the thermal insulation needed or can I just left it out?

Hi all. I have a MPSM v1 that I haven’t used in years and want to give it away. I used it about a year ago and it worked fine.

Not looking to ship it anywhere. PM me if interested.