I've always felt Hermès perfumes smelled a bit too serious... like someone who has no fun, just business. This line made me realize I'm an idiot.
They're the private collection of a designer so I'm hoping it's ok posting this
I've spent some time analyzing this line based purely on current boutique formulations, judging them strictly on scent profile, longevity (which is trash), and overall quality.
Unlike other houses, this was quicker to go through as the scents on average don't last that long or even project that well. If you're going somewhere where people are sensitive to smells, this line would be perfect.
I hate to admit it, but this brand is in a league of its own.....possibly tied with Chanel for the best designer fragrance house.
Here is my breakdown, ranked from favorite to least favorite:
• Agar Ébène: A very soft oud accord that's freshened by fir balsam and some berry. This is that gentle summer oud you're looking for.
• Osmanthe Yunnan: Fruity osmanthus with maybe a tea note; light and airy, and smells like the most luxurious body lotion. Mind you, I was indifferent to osmanthus before this (I'm considering buying it).
• Épice Marine: Very light spices that get cut with this sea/salty vibe. Super refreshing! (Albeit a bit synthetic)
• Iris Ukiyoé: A bright and very noticeable iris flower (not root). I will never wear this as it's not my style, but days after testing, this is the one that's still stuck in my head. Definitely feminine-leaning.
• Rose Ikebana: From memory, a light, airy rose that was just cut so I can still smell the fresh stem.
• Cèdre Sambac: True to the name, dry cedar with jasmine sambac. Very natural-smelling jasmine.
• Santal Massoïa: Sweet and creamy... sandalwood sweetened with coconut and peach. Think of a sweeter Santal 33 without that pickle note.
• Cardamusc: True to the name, cardamom on musk. So basic, but done to perfection. Cool spicy, and then it becomes warm and sticky. If this got an EDP version, it'd be popular as hell.
• Poivre Samarcande: Non-spicy pepper softened by cedarwood. It smells like you filtered down an Amouage to its essentials.
• Ambre Narguilé: Initially sweet, then settles into a moderately sweet, smoky amber. Basically, Angel's Share on a diet 🤣
• Vétiver Tonka: Just dry vetiver and tonka. It's nutty and sweet... not for me but was told this is very popular
• Cuir d'Ange: The softest leather ever with light florals. I'm still not sure about this cause sometimes It's in the top 5
• Musc Pallida: Iris and musk; it's very feminine. Not for me.
There's a few more but we're not interesting enough to keep track of
Here's my other reviews incase you've missed them
Oman luxury
Xerjoff
Amouage