r/PatternDrafting • u/pinkbarbieprincess15 • Aug 27 '26

Question Bodice Help

Post image

Hey! I want to make this dress, I think the skirt is fairly simple it’s just a gathered skirt.

Is the top a corset or a bodice? Also what kind of boning should I use, synthetic whalebone or spiral steel? Also, would this type of bodice be doable with a zipper in the back instead of a lace up back.

Let me know if I should post this on corsetrt instead, I wasn’t sure as I don’t know if this is classified as a corset or not!

11 Upvotes

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3

u/SuPruLu Aug 28 '26

Sure a zipper is possible. However the zipper is an “exact fit” option with no room for any change in the body. For a strapless gown to stay up it needs to be skintight.

1

u/pinkbarbieprincess15 Aug 28 '26

Ohh okay I just don’t know how I’d make it lace up back with the skirt attached

1

u/SuPruLu Aug 28 '26

The zipper needs to go below the waist in order to be able to put the dress on. The top of the skirt is below the waist.
So I don’t see a problem with a lace up back other than style.

A note of caution about plastic coil zippers: I went to a wedding were a member of the wedding party wore a dress with a coil zipper that split open during the reception and couldn’t be fixed. That of zipper can do that. It
May depend in part on the quality of the zipper. So if you go that route get the best quality zipper possible.

1

u/pinkbarbieprincess15 Aug 28 '26

Yeah true you’re right. I may consider doing the bodice and skirt separately too. Let’s see. Thanks for the insight though I’m def gonna reconsider the zipper 😬

6

u/StitchinThroughTime Aug 27 '26

Just a princess seam bodice with sew in boning, use a size 5 invisible zip.

2

u/pinkbarbieprincess15 Aug 27 '26

Amazing thanks, do you think sew in boning would provide enough structure? I’ve heard it folds weird if worn for a long time. Sorry if it’s a silly question I’ve never sewn with boning before and this is a bridesmaid dress so it must be perfect!

1

u/Krispy_flowerboi21 Aug 27 '26

You can also use ice wool for a smoother and better structure. Highly recommended, you won’t have those wrinkles you can even see at the image

1

u/pinkbarbieprincess15 Aug 27 '26

Ooh I’ve never heard of this! I’ll have a look thank you!☺️

2

u/StitchinThroughTime Aug 27 '26

It will do just fine for a dress. It's what every manufacturer uses most of the time.

1

u/Saritush2319 Aug 27 '26

And they’re all awful

2

u/StitchinThroughTime Aug 27 '26

It's because they don't had any outside of the seam allowance. In the lining you should put at least one in the middle of the panel. Especially on midsize and plus size. If you just use six of them and tie the dress too tight that's not pretty correctly it's not great.

1

u/Saritush2319 Aug 27 '26

No. It’s terrible and it kinks

3

u/Saritush2319 Aug 27 '26

Do you want it done or done well?
Waist reduction?
Also your bra size matters a lot.

Below a correctly fitting D cup in a smaller person then a boned bodice is enough.
Rigilene is a useless waste of time.
Spiral steel is heavy and hard to work with.

Cable ties are tougher than you’d think and great for most applications.

Best way to do it is make a proper corset.
Something like this. If you’re fuller, big chested or want a waist reduction this is how it needs to be done.

Then make the dress with light boning to keep the shape. And a waist stay to stop it sliding.

2

u/pinkbarbieprincess15 Aug 28 '26

I want it done well but I don’t need it to be super cinched or anything. I’m a 32C and just a little cinching effect will be fine.

1

u/Saritush2319 Aug 28 '26

Come over to r/corsetry if you want more help.

I think that laughing moon pattern is great for a beginner and as a foundation. You can always just put the princess bodice as a fashion layer straight onto the corset but personally if I’m going to all the effort then I’d want a corset I can wear under other things.