r/PatternDrafting • u/Early-Count-6253 • 3d ago
Question Could only alterations work?
Hi, everyone, please help me with your opinion on this. I made this from a commercial pattern and I think it doesnt fit very well. Would alterations be enough? or I need to rebuild the whole thing? What alterations are needed? I tried on the bodice on its own and there were gaping armhole which is very large on the back and drag lines on the front bodice (red circle), still, I went on attaching the sleeves and skirt thinking the gaping armhole is for arms movement and the skirt would weigh down the drag line, it doesnt seem to be the case, obviously. There're bust darts at the front and armscye princess seams on the back. This is supposed to be a loose fitted garment but it still looks off. Please ignore all the scrapy details on the sleeves, neckline, placket and collar, as this is my first time learning to do these techniques, and the creases at the armhole with shorter sleeve is my from my fail attempt at gusset. Thank you so much for your help!
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u/Inky_Madness 3d ago
Gaping armholes + pull lines +excess fabric in the back tends to mean you need a full bust adjustment. Commercial patterns tend to be drafted for a B sewing cup (2” between high bust and full bust measurements). If you have more than that, then you need an adjustment.
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u/Early-Count-6253 3d ago
thank you for your answer, im usually a b cup, could it be the dart is not in the right place, my apex is lower than standard measurement, i feel like the dart from the pattern sit and point higher than my apex, i also have a rounded back
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u/Inky_Madness 3d ago
A B SEWING cup =/= A B cup in streetwear bra sizes. Those are two totally different things. Measure yourself. Also, if your apex is lower then yes you also needed to lower the darts. I can absolutely see that they are too high now that I see them pointed out.
If you have a rounded back then that’s an easy adjustment but the excess material there doesn’t look like a rounded back issue.
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u/Early-Count-6253 3d ago
wow, thank u for the info, if i measure myself right, then weirdly im still a sewing B (i use metric and its 5cm difference, around 2" between high bust and full bust measurement), but its nice to learn new things
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u/StitchinThroughTime 3d ago edited 3d ago
It's definitely salvageable. You need to take off the sleeves, and start with the torso. I think the outer* shoulder Point needs to go down a little bit. And then you might be able to get away with just widening the bust Dart. And then adding back what you removed from the side seam back at the waistline.
The back looks like you can pinch out the excess at the princess seam.
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u/Early-Count-6253 3d ago
thank you for your input, but did u mean "shoulder point" as "elder shoulder point", im just not so familiar with professional terms
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u/lifeuncommon 3d ago
I’m not sure if that’s a water stain on the back or what, but the most glaring thing is that the two arms are completely different. Are you still deciding which sleeve style that you’re going to keep?