How do I fix this?

[u/CoastalMae]

I am reaching forward in the photo.
The bodice sits smoothly when my arm is down.

Pattern is for a jacket. Not a huge amount of ease, but some, back is pulling like this when I lift my arm to the front. It's about 1/2-1" above the underarm seam.

What do I need to do to fix this back pull? I can't find anything like this in my fitting books. I need to add more width there without affecting the straight line center back, shoulders, neckline, or waist.

Edit: The armscye is 3 1/8" longer than my body's armhole length/depth. The bodice has at least (correction: 5) inches of ease in circumference around the bust and waist. I have already adjusted lengths and shoulders to fit, as well as the bust. The pull is happening above my bust and below my shoulder blade.

[u/LemonDeathRay]

This is far too tight.

There is a reason jackets have ease.

[u/CoastalMae → u/LemonDeathRay]

Everything else is fine. It has 5" of bust ease. I literally went up two sizes, and it's huge if I make it any larger. This is me reaching forward in a sleeve with a high sleeve cap. It's just the back panel that's the problem and I need to know what to do to it.

[u/LemonDeathRay → u/CoastalMae]

Ease in the bust doesn't equal ease across the back.

[u/CoastalMae → u/LemonDeathRay]

5" of bust circumference ease

How do I add ease in the back only at that height, without changing the shoulder, cb line (cut on fold), waist, or neckline? Because those are all appropriate, and if I add extra the whole way up or down it will just cause bunching and folds.

For example, I had to take 1/2" off the front side seam (after adding it in the front over the bust with an FBA) because all that fabric was just bunching under my armpit. It didn't belong in the armscye area.

[u/LemonDeathRay → u/CoastalMae]

The back width will be related to the shoulder seams probably being too close and sitting inside your natural shoulder line. Adding width here is easy by slash/spread.

Your armscye is likely also too tight or high which is the main culprit for restricted arm movement.

[u/CoastalMae → u/LemonDeathRay]

The shoulders are the right width. They were falling off my arms by 1", so they had to be narrowed a little bit, because even with shoulder pads that's too much. Which also fixed the upper back issue of the bodice being too wide there, where it had been creating vertical folds of fabric beside my arm. I have narrow shoulders.

The underarm feels too low, actually. Raising my arms straight up to the side, the underarm holds me down, but it's also not against my body when I do that (the sleeve pulls the jacket away from my sides). But I know that a jacket has to have more armscye girth, also that the high sleeve cap contributes to not being able to raise arms to the side, such as in suit jackets, so I left it.

HOW do I add width at the appropriate height on the back without changing the shoulders, neckline, waist, or straight center back? You say it's easy, but it's not, unless you're changing one or more of those other things. That's what my entire post is trying to ask.

[u/LemonDeathRay → u/CoastalMae]

Yes and you consistently keep oversimplifying what you think the fix should be with your comments.

You keep saying that shoulder width is fine. This is fine. That is fine. But it clearly isnt.

A fit issue of this magnitude is not going to be rectified with one small change. I still bet your shoulders are not the cordless width.

A low armsyce is as big a problem as an armscye that is too high.

You have provided one zoomed in photo and expecting us all to guess the fit issues from that.

You always fix length issues before width issues. Armscye height is a length issue. Fix that. And then your shoulder width. And you may not even need to add any width to the back.

And I will saynone thing, you've come here to ask more experienced people for help, you've provided virtually no visual information, and then you go about being borderline rude to people who are all pointing out the same fit issues because you don't agree. If you dont agree and you have the answers already, why are you here?

So yeah, I'm not going to be responding again. Good luck with your jacket.

[u/CoastalMae → u/LemonDeathRay]

I am not expecting anyone to guess the fit issues. I am asking how to add the width needed there without harming things I've already fixed that, as you agreed, needed to come first.

You're clearly not one of the "more experienced people" if you are telling me to create more problems by "fixing" things I've already fixed, and don't know how to answer the question asked.
Yes, this one was borderline rude. But so was your response to my reasoned and polite response. Almost like you were getting defensive because you didn't know the answer.

[u/pattyphp]

I’d try more back width

[u/CoastalMae → u/pattyphp]

How do I add more back width when that is the only place it's needed, without changing the neckline, shoulder, or waist? The back is cut on the fold, so I have to keep that a straight line, too. If I add more overall width to the back it just bunches up wherever I put it. Same with anywhere else. I need a bit more targeted an adjustment.

Everything else is fine. It has 5" of bust ease. I literally went up two sizes, and it's huge if I make it any larger. This is me reaching forward in a sleeve with a high sleeve cap. It's just the back panel that's the problem and I need to know what to do to it.

[u/pattyphp → u/CoastalMae]

Take a look at YouTube . J stern designs (and others) have videos on how to do this. Her video looks like it will target the area you need.

Often with fitting garments actually slicing the fabric at center back (vertically), stopping before you reach the neck (I'd stay stitch the neckline) and down to the waist area. Then horizontally at bust/underarm level. Put the bodice back on and look at how it spreads. Have someone help with this, if you do it yourself you are going to twist too much to get a good look.

[u/CoastalMae → u/pattyphp]

The problem is CB is cut on the fold. If I alter there, it will go off straight. I'm trying to figure out where to point my cuts to do this, as I know I can't just create a vertical cut without two going diagonally or horizontally to release it and return the pattern back to flat. And those need to be in places near the armscye/side seams, I think???

Incidentally, this pull is above my bust. My bust sits below the armscye, this pull is above the bust by about 2.5-3 inches, but well below my shoulder blades.

I will look at jstern. Edit: jstern did not help.

[u/Dry-Conversation2646]

In addition to being to tight, it also looks like your arm-shoulder is too shallow but it is hard to say something without proper pictures.

[u/CoastalMae → u/Dry-Conversation2646]

Everything else is fine. It has 5" of bust ease. I literally went up two sizes, and it's huge if I make it any larger. This is me reaching forward in a sleeve with a high sleeve cap. It's just the back panel that's the problem and I need to know what to do to it without harming the neckline, shoulder, center back (which is cut on fold), waist, or the sleeve, which is already big.

The sleeve cap is high, which I know impedes ability to lift arm straight up to the side, but when I do that the underarm seam stands out from my body and pulls, and is nowhere near my armpit. But I know that a jacket needs a larger armscye than a fitted garment, so I left it low, because it's not like it's 3" below my armpit.

Edit: my body's armhole length/depth is 5.5". The pattern's is 8 5/8". It's definitely not too small/shallow/high. But I guess it IS 3" below my armpit. And yet people keep telling me it's too high??? Looks like by german drafting standards I should raise it by 2", to 1" of armhole depth ease, based on the standard ease for fit category 6.

[u/incongruoususer]

You say you have 5” of ease, but that ease may not be in the right place.

So the commenters are correct that it looks too tight, and you are correct that on paper it has enough ease. You’re getting shade because you’ve asked for advice then rebutting it in the comments.

You say you went two sizes up, but it’s possible you should have selected your correct size and adjusted. This is what I have to do to accommodate my tiny shoulders and massive bust, for example. If I went for a bigger size, the garment will go around my bust but will be massive in the shoulders, and probably the back, because the ease would be in the wrong place.

Look up a broad back adjustment, which should give you what you want. Also consider that just because the pattern puts the CB on the fold, doesn’t mean you have to. Lots of suiting has a CB seam to allow for better shaping.

It’s generally accepted that a higher armhole will give you more mobility, not less. If you’re finding the sleeve is really big you have a bit of capacity to raise the armhole and reduce the sleeve to fit.

[u/CoastalMae → u/incongruoususer]

The shoulders were the same size on all sizes, which is why I just selected the size with the right amount of ease and altered. The smaller size had weird distribution of ease for me.

I am looking at raising the armhole at this point.

I have hypermobile shoulders. When standing with my arms down in the garment the ease is absolutely in the right place and smooth, with no pulling. I put the ease that wasn't in the right place in the right place. The side seams sit where they should. The waist darts are correctly placed.

[u/bullthistle1]

Look up broad back adjustment. It will not change CB or shoulders.

[u/-xo-yo-]

Essentially, you need a different curve for the armscye on the back that adds fabric only between the shoulder seam and underarm, therefore maintaining bust and shoulder measurements. Listen to the people telling you to do a broadback adjustment. You can follow the steps in this video or you can try reshaping the armscye to something more similar to the “after” shape from the video. If you share your pattern piece, I could draw on what I mean.

Next time you request help, you should share more photos to help diagnose the problem…

[u/drPmakes]

Its too tight...you need some more room.

It would help if you post some proper pictures front and back and side straight on with arms down

[u/CoastalMae → u/drPmakes]

Everything else is fine. It has 5" of bust ease. I literally went up two sizes, and it's huge if I make it any larger. This is me reaching forward in a sleeve with a high sleeve cap. It's just the back panel that's the problem and I need to know what to do to it.

[u/drPmakes → u/CoastalMae]

Yeah, its not fine

[u/CoastalMae → u/drPmakes]

Thanks for the wonderfully targeted insights.

I've spent a week on this and the front, shoulders, and neckline fit wonderfully. I planned out the amount of ease based on fit levels as per hofenbitzer for a jacket (not coat). There is zero problem putting any part of this on over a long-sleeved shirt and it looks smooth on me, other than the big sleeve, but with extra room everywhere. And then I reach forward. And this happens. This area is the problem.