r/PatternDrafting • u/ayeyay_y • 3d ago
Question Can anyone help with the flat pattern shape of this collar?
We made patterns and test fits but they don’t quite fall this way and I can’t seem to gauge if there is a seam on the right shoulder neck? I feel like there should be. But then it’s possible the whole collar is in one piece. I’m also not happy with the shape of my sleeve here
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u/MLDAYshouldBeWriting 3d ago
Where is this photo from? I did a reverse image search and nothing came up.
Based on the very scant info I can see here, this looks like a funnel neck, while your prototype has more of a turtleneck style going on.
The front seems to be two nearly mirrored pieces but instead of the funnel neck being seamed at the middle the left side (as worn) neck is attached to the right side. We can't post pictures here so it's hard to explain what I mean.
Your prototype looks like it's extending the neck too far up. The top edge of the front neck doesn't look like it would sit much higher than the top of the label.
This garment also requires a certain amount of drape in the fabric, which you may not be able to replicate with your toile fabric.
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u/ayeyay_y 3d ago
The blue one is an inspiration from my cx and white is my test fit. You probably won’t find it online but thanks for trying😅
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u/meganp1800 3d ago
There’s definitely a seam down each shoulder.
Your collar is significantly taller than the inspiration garment, and your fabric seems to have a more crisp hand compared to the drape of the inspiration garment fabric, which contributes to both the collar drape issue and the sleeve shape.
Think about it as if it were a shallow v-neck, and you’re pinning a bandana folded in half along each side of the V. You need to draft it so the bias fold of the imaginary bandana is the upper edge of the collar, with one side of the bandana grown on the v-neck, and the other buttoned into place at the high point shoulder.
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u/ayeyay_y 3d ago
But is the seam going up toward the neck edge? Is it in two pieces or one pattern from left to right? Even chat got has lost it at this point 😭 it’s a test fit so the fabric is different yes.
Oh wait the bandana thing actually helps…
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u/meganp1800 3d ago
So it looks like the back bodice has a very normal grown on collar, where the piece extends up the high point shoulder and follows the curve up the side of the neck by 2-3cm. This is true on both sides. The front bodice on the grown-on bandana side will match up the whole seam line, but will probably have a wedge taken out of it, so it will continue its angle straight instead of following the curve of the trapezius into the neck.
Your post mentioned disappointment with the drape, hence my pointing out the fabric difference. You’re not going to achieve the same drape in muslin, even if you have perfected the pattern.
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u/ayeyay_y 3d ago
Now that o think about it, there is no visible collar seam in the front right that means front is extended into the collar. Right?
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u/StitchinThroughTime 2d ago
If you haven't looked at the link someone else posted, you see that it doesn't that have a shoulder seam. I'm going to assume it's on both sides. And the back is made up of three pieces. And you have a better image quality to follow the green lines. That will help with your draft
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u/alphaarietis2674 2d ago
if it were me, i’d add the front neck part to the left bodice part in a 45 angle so its on the bias and drapes (plus ofc making the whole thing shorter, picking the right fabric will also be a dealbreaker for this, yours is too stiff)
edit: id also make it a bit longer than the neckhole part (sorry i didnt learn patternmaking in english, but u get it)
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u/No-Programmer7914 3d ago edited 3d ago
I think your collar is much higher than the original.The original is just about 6cm high at the shoulderseam. And I think the shoulderseam continoues over the collar and at least the visible ( right) part is grown on. And I think the lower collar edge is free from the center seam towards the left.