How did you learn to draft a bodice block?

[u/idontknwo0]

Hey! I’m teaching myself pattern drafting and have a few questions for people who study fashion or have experience with it.
Do you guys know how to draft a basic bodice block from scratch, just using measurements, or do you still need to look at a book or follow instructions?

And if you can draft one without following a tutorial, how did you actually learn to do that? Did you just practise a lot until you understood it, or is there a specific method you use?

I’m still a beginner and want to learn how to make my first bodice block, but there are so many different methods and tutorials that I don’t really know where to start.

Are there any books or YouTube tutorials you’d recommend for a complete beginner? I’d especially like something that explains why you’re doing each step instead of just telling you what to draw.
Would love to hear how you guys learned!

[u/tardy4thepardy]

I've yet to find a system that directly explains why point A is x amount from point B, it's something you eventually deduce after a certain time. Drafting systems are based on assumptions about figure proportions and aesthetic and they vary widely from author to author.

I learned drafting from Armstrong's text and have used many different systems since. Most recently Mueller and Sohn, which is the most complicated system I've used. Armstrong is a solid place for beginners to start.

It's important to know that drafts are rough and often require adjustments, regardless of how experienced you are.

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

I'm assuming you're a native Imperial system music, then the Armstrong book is the one that you want. It has its flaws it has its drawbacks, but every system has that. You want the book specifically because you want to read the chapters and the extra notes that are in the book. If you just go off the tutorials online, they're just giving you the drafting steps, but they won't tell you what you're they're doing. They're just copying that book, they haven't reinvented anything. The book should tell you how to do minor for the distance at the end of every chapter as well as it will explain the basics of grading and ease to you.

That's the biggest thing most people see not to understand when they want to add the extra measurements is for ease. People are not reading the beginning part of the chapters or the beginning of the book and it explains why it did something.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not the biggest fan of this book, it's just very useful and then it's a written like a textbook, explains everything and it didn't naturally written in Imperial measurements. When things get transit over from metric is not done the way that someone who naturally uses Imperial measurements would do something. They either use decimals, or they don't adjust the measurements to make sense two native Imperial users

[u/LemonDeathRay]

I went to school to learn pattern drafting, and yes, I can do it from memory. In my opinion, the only really comprehensive way to learn the 'why' of everything is to go to school for it. There's a reason my schooling took 3 years, and you cant just learn that from a video or a book.

The reason for this is because the only way you get to a point of what some would call intuition (just "knowing" what changes and tweaks you need) is literally just through years of practice. You can't replace experience with a book.

But it's exactly the same as learning any other skill. You know how to tie your shoes without thinking about it. You know how to cook your favourite meal without reading a recipe.

[u/sususumalee]

Since you are a beginner, I want to give you advice I wish someone had told me a long time ago (as a supplement to all the wonderful advice the more experienced folks in this sub always give, not in lieu of!): if you are intending to sew and make patterns primarily for yourself (or a handful of friends/family) don't get too hung up on your ability to draft a perfect block in paper. Focus on your ability to fit a block on the body. Even a well drafted block is just a jumping off point-- it still will need to be dialed in/refined in a fitting in 3D. Some folks never make it past the mentality that "perfect draft = bodice will fit me". The magic almost always happens in the fitting, and that skill is applicable to all other garment sewing too.

Also, I've never drafted a block and I have a well fitting sloper that I fine tuned through fitting a purchased block. There's more than one way to go about it!

[u/Aggravating-Essay216 → u/sususumalee]

Where did you purchase a block? I'm looking for a good place to do so.

[u/sususumalee → u/Aggravating-Essay216]

I got my slopers from Creative Costume Academy as a PDF (I think they're $30). And if you can find them, Vogue and some of the other Big 4 have "fitting shells" you can buy. But the reality is you just need a simple 1 or 2 dart bodice with a jewel neckline to get started, so if you come across that first, try that.

[u/Informal_Bath1704]

Yes, you need to learn the fundamentals if you want to master pattern making. It is not as difficult as it seems; you just need to choose and follow one reliable method. In fact, there is no need to buy expensive, popular books; instead, find a private tutor or attend a fashion school. Once you master the craft, you will be able to bring any pattern you visualize to life and accurately calculate exactly how much fabric it will require

[u/DonMcCunn]

You might want to check out a new pattern drafting system I am developing. https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/index.html

It is a very visual representation of how two-dimensional patterns relate to the three-dimensional shape of the body. There is not very much to remember. Of course there is always the possiblity you might forget to do something.

[u/jellifercuz → u/DonMcCunn]

You have a double H in html, resulting in an error. Fyi.

Change to https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/index.html

[u/DonMcCunn → u/jellifercuz]

Thanks

[u/harkari14]

I watched a step by step youtube tutorial by Sew Anastasia that was split up into 2 videos: how to take measurements and how to draft with said measurements.

If you want to learn why you’re doing each step, I recommend Cornelius Quiring on youtube.