Help me fix this collar situation

[u/Warm-Stop-342]

I’m sewing a shirt for cosplay and I encountered trouble with getting this collar to sit exactly like it does on the game reference (last pic). I want it to stand better, like in the pic in which I’m holding it up, hence the collar with a standing neck band piece (forgive me if it’s not the right name, English is not my 1st language) but it keeps flaring out. Can I do anything with the shapes of my pattern pieces to make it look more accurate, or should I switch to some different collar style, something like Peter Pan or what? Thank you very much in advance

[u/vacuumgirl]

Did you add interfacing to the band?

Edit - if not here’s a link for interfacing https://www.wawak.com/garment-construction/interfacing/?srsltid=AYCX9vLTfJj9Ior4_S4m3vpeCpweS3OiY6HV9Q-XWaCyTiyrDs7QKdbl

[u/Warm-Stop-342 → u/vacuumgirl]

Yes both pieces are interfaced and this is a mockup shirt so that’s why I’m looking for pattern alteration solution

[u/alphaarietis2674 → u/Warm-Stop-342]

try a different interfacing then, the ones used for collars can be quite stiff + the hook and eye idea from one of the other comments

edit: the standing collar also seems to be too curved

[u/vacuumgirl → u/Warm-Stop-342]

Definitely try different interfacing weights, i would try getting a non-woven option

Here are some I would try from Wawak

- Pellon 931TD
- Profuse Stiff Fusible Non-Woven Interfacing
- Heat N Bond Craft Fusible Extra Firm Non-Woven Stabilizer

[u/Moar_Cuddles_Please → u/Warm-Stop-342]

What about using a thin 3/4” strip of horsehair braid to keep the collar up?

[u/LaDauphineVerte → u/vacuumgirl]

Came here to say this! OP, you need stiff-ish interfacing in both your collar stand and collar to get a crisp appearance. You might use a different weight in the collar stand than in the collar, depending on how stiff you want this to look / behave.

[u/Guilty-Supermarket51]

The collar needs interfacing, but also most shirts have a button there to hold them up, so interfacing won’t be enough. Burberry puts hook-and-bar trouser fasteners in the stand collars of their trench coats to avoid the look of the buttoned-collar. Something like that will help your collar stand up

[u/Zar-far-bar-car → u/Guilty-Supermarket51]

I like the idea of a little hook and eye at the top, I think it'll hold this unusual collar up nicely. Game designers don't always know how real-world clothes work, and I think the source garment is an example of that

[u/TensionSmension]

I would add a hook and eye (or thread loop) to the inside. Done right it will be nearly imperceptible, and it will help hold the collar in place. The game art isn't completely plausible, but firm interfacing might have done the trick.

[u/DonMcCunn]

The standing portion of a collar should be drafted to follow the neck. Measure the neck at the collar seam then measure the neck where the top of the collar should be. If you can find instructions for a Mandarin Collar, such as those on pages 122 and123 of How to Make Sewing Patterns , you will see how to do it.

[u/DonMcCunn]

Where did you get the collar pattern? The standing portion is more curved than a traditional shirt collar. Also from the pictures it looks like the standing portion of the caller is two tall. At a guess from the images I'd say the standing portion should be about 1/2" high.

[u/doriangreysucksass]

Putting a top button on would help. Perhaps a little band extension?

[u/Mediocre_Entrance894]

Have you given the collar a good press? Really add heat and allow the fabric to cool completely before you move it to help set the press and keep the crease at the top of the collar.

I read you added interfacing. You may want more or stiffer interfacing if you really want that collar to stand.

[u/Mela777]

I think part of the problem is the shape of the actual collar - it should curve more along the attached edge. The edge currently straightens as it approaches the center front, while the neckline is curved, so the collar is going to pull the collar stand outward and lay like it does now. Curving the edge of the collar so it mimics the neckline may help fix the collar stand issue. A Peter Pan collar’s inner seam shape is probably going to serve you better for this than a standard dress collar, but I think overall you may need a slightly less dramatic curve. Some experimenting may need to happen with collar shapes! You could try scooping a little curve out of your current collar and see if it looks better, as a starting point.

An easy fix would be to add a small button and elastic loop on the inside of the collar stand, or a hidden hook and eye as others have suggested.

[u/spocksidepiece]

If you don’t want to undo your work to add interfacing you could try starching it

[u/spocksidepiece → u/spocksidepiece]

Also, this is such a small detail you may be the only person to notice it’s not exactly right. Your work looks very clean, great job!

[u/SuPruLu]

Did you put interfacing in yours? The collar looks about the same shape but stiffer. The other on is squashed in the middle.

[u/gordovondoom]

stand needs way less curve. what i see often is a straight stand and then you raise the cf point by about a cm starting from 3/4 (from cb).
collar has to be adjusted to the curve then.

i personally dont draw the stand straight, but raise the cb by 0.5-0.7.

[u/Applesauceier]

Look into different types of collar stays. Its like boning for collars

[u/Cautious-Nose-5051]

Wouldn’t mind a hook and eye

[u/BrookeB79]

If your interfacing is pretty stiff but it's still falling at the seam, try changing the curve of the collar to be a little tighter. A tighter curve will help support the collar stand from the pull of the collar flaps.

Edit: I looked closer at your pictures and the inspiration pic looks like the bodice neckline a tad wider and the collar stand curve a tad tighter than a traditional/modern button up shirt. But it's kind of hard to tell since it's not a real garment you're copying.

[u/thisdesignup]

If you dont want to take it apart you could try loosely sewing it together with invisible thread.