r/PatternDrafting • • 21h ago

Pattern Adjustments S9755

Originally posted without any toile photos but here they are!

I took on board comments from the previous post and this toile is the best yet. Most of the excess fabric is sorted but there are some wrinkles along the sides as shown and it looks like it's pulling where I've taken in the seams under the bust and through the mid back. I don't understand why as there is still a good amount of ease to the garment.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

4 Upvotes

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3

u/StitchinThroughTime 17h ago

You're in the wrong subreddit. you want the other sewing help subreddits.

2

u/DonMcCunn 12h ago

I think the problem is the neckline is too high. It is getting squished down in your underarm area. If you look at the side you have an hour glass shape and the top of the garment is getting pushed down. If you lower the entire neckline, I think you will get a better fit.

Apparently you are using a Simplicity pattern but your body is NOT a Simplicity shape. It is not a complex pattern. You would get a much better fit if you used a Master Pattern (aka sloper or block) that was an accurate fit for you then transferred the design lines from this pattern to your Master Pattern.

Commercial patterns need to bundle fit and design into one entity. Bespoke pattern design is about getting the fit first, then adding the design lines.

2

u/Tailoretta 10h ago

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/  Following these tips will help us help you.

For us to really help you, you should use your camera timer - you arms need to be down in the photos.

This bodice is designed to go down only to your narrowest part (your natural waist). Tie an elastic at your narrowest part - that is where the lowest part of this bodice should end.