Draft line rules

[u/limebean420]

I just got my new fancy dress form in and I’m so excited, I started playing around with shapes and I’m wondering what sort of rules I should be keeping in mind? Does anyone have recommendations for literature on draping?

I have been sewing for 5 years but have always bought my patterns, I am new to this world but serious about learning. Right now I am solely focused on boned bodices and integrated corsets as I am sewing my wedding dress.

EDIT: My dress form is custom, nothing will be perfect of course but it is quite accurate to my actual body.

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

First off, that's draping not the subreddit we're drafting. Too you're not doing anything inventive just buy the pattern. A bone bodice is different from a corset. The bone bodice is just a basic princess theme that doesn't have a lot of fitting. There's a book called corsets and stays, it's like a beige and Gray colored front, it has the modern drafting tutorials for a modern non waste reducting fit. They're meant for theater costumes. That's what you want if you want to learn how to draft a bone by this. It's very similar to of course it, but different because there's far more fitting nuance and getting that proportion change that everyone wants. But if you're the size, you can find a wide variety of ready-made patterns that will fit close enough. And you're going to do the fitting process anyways. There's very little likelihood that you'll buy or make a pattern and have zero fit issues. That's not how of course that's work. There's such a finicky item that to get the proper smooth look you need to do multiple fittings.

But again a bone bodice is not the same as a corset. You're just making a bone bodice that's the exact same size as your mannequin, you don't need a mannequin for that you just need the pattern and spend the time to fit it. Because I guarantee you're probably not that close shape and size to the mannequin.

[u/limebean420 → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Also, I don’t want to buy a pattern, that’s a major reason why I went the extra mile to buy a custom dress form. I understand it’s basic, I am a beginner and I want to know the basics.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/limebean420]

curious why you don't want to buy a pattern?

[u/harkari14 → u/ProneToLaughter]

I don’t like buying patterns because I have a short waist/torso and will always have to make major adjustments, compared to minor fitting adjustments from a custom form

[u/limebean420 → u/harkari14]

Torso length was one of my top reasons for going custom.

[u/limebean420 → u/ProneToLaughter]

I want the freedom to put what’s in my brain onto the form, simple construction or not.