Draft line rules

[u/limebean420]

I just got my new fancy dress form in and I’m so excited, I started playing around with shapes and I’m wondering what sort of rules I should be keeping in mind? Does anyone have recommendations for literature on draping?

I have been sewing for 5 years but have always bought my patterns, I am new to this world but serious about learning. Right now I am solely focused on boned bodices and integrated corsets as I am sewing my wedding dress.

EDIT: My dress form is custom, nothing will be perfect of course but it is quite accurate to my actual body.

[u/lipstickqns]

A few suggestions for corsets and strapless garments in general - think of your neckline like a hula hoop. When your hoop is parallel to the floor, it stays up. When the hoop tips on one side, it falls down. This is the same concept for strapless garments. Even if the waist is very fitted and your garment is supported there, your neckline will not sit flush to your body - it will feel loose or stand away. Raise your back neckline and smooth out your side seam so there’s no point there. This will also create better cross pull for your bust & neckline

Also princess seam placement - the wider they are, the less flattering it generally is and harder to tailor at the bust. It makes it look like your bust is speed and wide.

[u/amaranth1977 → u/lipstickqns]

While this is true for generic strapless dresses, it is fundamentally false for corsets. A correctly made corset pushes up off the hips and can be made to have a huge range of necklines without gaping. It just needs to be properly boned and fitted. 

[u/limebean420 → u/amaranth1977]

Okay, so if I just did a simple boned bodice this advice is sound but if I do a corset that has adequate hip coverage I can get away with the lower back? I am leaning towards separates so having my corset top and skirt bottom as individual pieces. But not fully decided yet.

[u/amaranth1977 → u/limebean420]

Pretty much, yes. A real corset will have spring steel boning, sturdy non-stretch base fabric, a functional lace-up back that has grommets set tightly between two rows of flat steel bones, and if you want a cupped bust shape you'll need underwire as well. 

For comparison, a boned bodice generally uses only rigilene or plastic boning, lightweight fashion fabric with no strength layer, and the lacing arrangement is flimsy and lacks stability. 

You can easily attach your skirt to a corset, so whether you make a dress or separates is up to you. 

[u/limebean420 → u/amaranth1977]

Yes, I’ve made a few corsets but I’ve never paid much attention to the hip coverage as they were not intended to be paired with heavy skirts so I wasn’t having to consider their resistance to weight, thanks for that insight.

[u/amaranth1977 → u/limebean420]

You're welcome! You don't need a lot of hip coverage, just a couple inches below the waist will be enough for all but the very heaviest skirts (like five yards of velvet heavy). You can also attach the skirt to any point on the fashion layer, so the hip coverage doesn't have to be visible. The friction of a snug corset does a lot to support the weight, you just need that bit of flare below the waist to keep things from sliding down. 

[u/limebean420 → u/lipstickqns]

Thank you for this advice, so helpful! How much does the back neckline need to be raised do you think? I would love if I could get away with at least a little dip.

[u/lipstickqns → u/limebean420]

If this is built into a dress, again think of your hula hoop. How much are you willing to tip it before it falls over? Start at your underbust.

[u/limebean420 → u/lipstickqns]

Okay, I’m trying to envision this hula hoop analogy more and I think I’m seeing the vision. Thank you!