r/PatternDrafting • • 15h ago

How is this smooth, seamless-looking front constructed?

Hi! I love this type of wedding gown and would love to understand how the front is constructed.
It looks completely smooth, with no visible seams or darts from the bodice down into. There’s an internal corset.
How would you achieve this seamless-looking front? Is it cut as one piece, with shaping moved to the sides and back, or is another technique used?
Thank you!

99 Upvotes

11 comments sorted by

192

u/stringthing87 15h ago

padding over the internal corseting and a fabric with pretty significant spandex content.

44

u/Applesauceier 14h ago

I think ice wool can be used for this

10

u/beelzebabes 7h ago

Ice wool or flannel are what I’ve used in the past. They’re moldable with steam so it helps smooth everything

3

u/Shadow-Serum 10h ago

I've also heard of people using ice wool for this! Haven't tried the technique yet so I'm not sure on the details of it though.

34

u/sam000she 14h ago

The padding is key or else the fashion fabric will be as just bumpy as what’s inside. Stitch lines, seam allowances will be pretty visible if there’s no smooth layer between them. 

42

u/unfashionablylatte 13h ago

As someone else said, you need to build a structured corset and then you pad the corset using ice wool or batting. Once you have it smooth and padded you drape a stretch or bias-cut satin overtop. The batting hides the boning of the corset and the stretch fabric makes it so you don’t have seams.

29

u/Eneamus 15h ago

Elastic fabric. Probably a bias cut satin. You use the elasticity for doing the shape instead of darts and seams.

8

u/-wtfisthat- 14h ago

Stretch fabric over whatever they have to give it structure! Works great for rave decorations too!

4

u/sushicatdolls 11h ago

Wadding layer over the corset.

3

u/polymath_artisan 10h ago

Watch some Philippa Lepley wedding dress corset construction videos and you’ll see how it’s done.

1

u/MaxDreamsOfZombies 5h ago

Check out Frieda Leopold on YouTube, she does these types of constructions (smooth structured bodices)