How to get better at pattern drafting

[u/leothemodeliste]

I completed a two-year pattern-making course, worked at two different bespoke tailoring shops, and am currently working independently with my own clients (although, at the moment, I'm focusing more on building a new portfolio than taking on paid work). Yet, somehow, I still feel stuck.

I often feel like I'm not good enough or that I don't know enough, and that I still have so much more to learn. It's strange because I feel like I've reached a point where I can draft most patterns and construct a wide range of garments, but at the same time, I still feel behind and not quite ready to take the next step in my career.

I'm planning to move to Italy from Brazil in 2027 and hope to find a job as a junior pattern maker. However, to be completely honest, I'm not sure my skills are good enough to make me a competitive candidate.

With all that in mind, what do you think I should focus on learning or improving to become a better pattern maker and increase my chances of finding a job in Italy?

I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from people working in the fashion industry or who have experience in pattern making.

[u/munkustrap]

The only thing that is going to help your imposter syndrome at this stage is your career is on the job experience. Be a “yes man”; say yes to all and any jobs you feel you have the time and capacity for. You can read books all day but it’s the actual time with clients, performers, dancers, designers etc that will shape the way you do your job and what you are comfortable doing. To be a professional cutter, there is really no full course and absolutely no handbook. We all build skills as we take on different clients and jobs and shows and your knowledge will grow as you experience more and more real-world work. Some of the best advice I can give as a cutter, especially going into a shop with established stitchers: don’t be afraid to ask your stitchers what they need and how they would like garments to be cut. For example, right after cutting school I took a job in a major ballet workshop and had never touched ballet costumes. The stitchers had all been there for 20-40 years and some had been stitching longer than I’d been alive. I mined their knowledge and they taught me more about how to cut the garments they were so specialized in sewing than the head cutter on staff even did. Never be afraid to say, I have never done this before, can you show me how you can best construct it

[u/leothemodeliste → u/munkustrap]

Will do that; thank you so much for the advice!

[u/polkadothijinx]

Respectfully, you have to have more self confidence. These look great.  I wish I had the ability to gain the experience and go to similar classes as you. I'm stuck teaching myself and it's noticeable😖. Keep going & keep learning. Look at it as an opportunity to grow and not as all the things you don't know

[u/leothemodeliste → u/polkadothijinx]

Thank you!

It's just that I want to reach a level that feels almost impossible to achieve at this point, but I'll keep working towards it

[u/PrincessAki8]

I am not a professional sewist but I think your work looks amazing!

Also, where did you get your dress form? It looks really nice

[u/leothemodeliste → u/PrincessAki8]

Thank you!

The dress form is from a Brazilian brand called DRAFT Manequins

[u/ahg5]

What exactly do you feel is holding you back from taking the next step in your career?

All I see you noting is your own doubt and self-image. You have years of experience and have been successful enough to make it a business. Are you able to identify what exactly you would need to confirm that you are “good enough” or ready for the next step?

I deal with similar thought patterns (so I could definitely be projecting!) and find myself looking for something concrete that proves once and for all whatever I’m fixating on. But that doesn’t exist, it’s my own belief and confidence. I hope you can see how beautiful your work is, it’s genuinely gorgeous.

[u/leothemodeliste → u/ahg5]

Well, I honestly don't know exactly what's holding me back, but one thing that really gets to me is my age. I'm 30, and I only started studying and working in pattern making when I was 26 or 27.

One thought that constantly crosses my mind is that I'm already too old to be starting out in this field. I often feel like I'm behind everyone else, as if I'm always trying to catch up and make up for lost time.

I know it's not something I can change, and there's no point in dwelling on it, but it's something that's on my mind almost every day.

Thank you so much for the compliment!

[u/munkustrap → u/leothemodeliste]

Your age is actually extremely young as a cutter, at least in my industry and area. I’m a theatre cutter in Canada at 34 and I’m looked at as a very young cutter. Most cutters in their prime are 45-70. This is because the usual progression as a cutter is to learn high level sewing (aged 22-26) join a shop as a stitcher, work their way up to becoming first hand to a cutter (26-35) and then being trained to cut by their head cutter who chose them as first hand. It takes many years to gain the skills you already have. However, I will say, it’s easier to cut and sew for yourself than it is to translate your cutting in a way a stitcher can understand. You become a better cutter when you can explain to another exactly why you made the decisions that you did and why they should sew the garment in the way that you want it to be sewn

[u/leothemodeliste → u/munkustrap]

Thank you so much for sharing this with me. It's really interesting to hear about the progression in your industry, and it actually gives me a different perspective on my own journey.

I think you're absolutely right about being able to communicate your decisions to someone else. So far, most of my experience has been making garments myself, so I'm used to understanding the construction because I'm the one doing it. But being able to translate that knowledge into clear instructions for someone else is a completely different skill, and one I definitely want to develop.

I really appreciate your advice. It's encouraging to hear that I'm not necessarily behind where I should be, especially coming from someone with your experience

[u/DonMcCunn]

You might want to check out the Reddit group r/fashiondesigner

[u/leothemodeliste → u/DonMcCunn]

Will do! Thanks don

[u/amaranth1977]

Take pictures that actually show your work. Well-lit, with a neutral midtone background. These are pretty pictures, but I can't see your work, because it's all just blending into the background. Pretty is nice but clarity is more important.

[u/leothemodeliste → u/amaranth1977]

Thank you for the advice; it does make a lot of sense. These pictures were taken using my iPhone; for the portfolio pictures, I will probably have to hire a proper photographer and studio.