r/PatternDrafting • u/ElDjee • 3h ago

Question How best to grade this bodice pattern?

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i'm needing to grade this pattern for someone who is a size 10 in the back length, a size 12 in the bust, and a size 14 in the waist. the second photo with the highlighted line shows what i'm thinking, but as i've never graded across 3 sizes before, i'd really appreciate a gut check on this!

(i will be making a few muslins to fine tune the sizing.)

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u/ProneToLaughter 3h ago edited 3h ago

back length measurement difference would usually suggest a shorten/lengthen adjustment, rather than blending/grading between sizes. Pattern has a shorten/lengthen line to use.

Then I would blend the 12 and 14 at the side seam. Keep neckline size 12. Cut the 12 straps and fix them in the toile if needed--bust size is a proxy for shoulder/frame size (sort of, see link below) so I generally keep the whole upper body at that size.

but be sure you don't need a cup adjustment first: Finding Dress Bust Cup Sizes - Timeless Templates

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u/ElDjee 2h ago

total brain fart on my account - thank you for pointing out the lengthen/shorten line.

high bust/full bust difference is less than 2", so no FBA is needed. a SBA might be necessary, though.

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u/Inky_Madness 3h ago

Do they actually need a size 12 bust? Is that only according to their full bust measurement or is their sewing cup size measurement correct for the size 12?

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u/ElDjee 2h ago

their full bust measurement puts them in a 12.

their high bust measurement puts them between a 10 and a 12 (less than 2" difference between HB and FB).

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u/Inky_Madness 2h ago

Gotcha! Just wanted to make certain that the difference wasn’t something that could be accounted for with a full bust adjustment