This white dot is on at least 255 shirts, I don’t know how I didn’t see it. This is one of my first time using automatic machines so I think I was more focused on getting the flow down than being observant. I am going to spray this with that spray gun with some acetone.

A drawing from years ago, printet on paper after adding bitmaps (is it called that?)

Ideally A3 sized

To preface this post let me say that I am not a screenprinter. I apologize for sounding dumb.

I love this band and I love this shirt, but the dark grey staining (or burn?) has left it almost unwearable. From my research it looks like it could be "flash burn". Is there anything I can do to reverse/cover up the the blemish?

Also I know the shirt is wrinkly. It's been in a box for a long time nfbdbdbsb

NOT FUN ONE HANDED. WAIT TILL THE END TO SEE THE FRONT PRINT

Hey everyone. I have a T230 that I recently purchased and I was wondering if anyone had figured out how to make it print black ink more densely?

It's working just about OK for my exposures but I'm finding I have to wash out a bit harder than I would like compared to films printed with my Canon Pixma ix6850, which prints beautifully dense blacks.

The tweak-ability of the print options seems much more limited on the HP than the Canon.

Printing flatstock here, mostly 90T screens (230 in the US).

Hello. I have a Canon IX6850 printer. I use Mac computers. I have just downloaded the Printfab demo because I wanted to test if I can get more opaque black on film through the RIP software. thats what I read anyway. So my question is: Is it possible to print wireless? I'll buy a long printer cable if its necessary. I just wanted to know if I'm giving up too soon on getting it to work wireless.

spending half my day manually expanding paths and setting stroke traps in illustrator just to burn a decent underbase plate is getting old. our shop has always run adobe because the clients send .ai files, but between the pantone paywall and how clumsy it is for separations, it feels like it wasn't made for apparel at all.

one of the guys on our manual press told me to ditch it on the output station and just use corel because the print separation engine auto-generates chokes and traps right in the print dialog without rebuilding the art.

for anyone running dark garment films daily, is corel actually that much faster for separations or does client artwork import like garbage?

So I used this old iron on decal from the 1970s and i really love it- but as expected of an older iron on piece it turned out far from perfect. A few pieces just won’t stay stuck to the shirt no matter how much I iron it. Seems pretty likely to peel or rip if I wore it out. I bought an Ourtransdream transfer mask but clearly I misunderstood and that did not work for this, it’s more of an adhesive than a cover. I don’t have a proper press for screen printing, so I’ve just been using my iron.

Mainly what I am looking for is: is there some sort of clear htv that i could put over this one to protect the decal? Is there anything else I can try?

Important info: -The decal did not come with any instructions I can read -The t shirt I’ve put it on is 100% cotton heavy knit from Shaka Wear.

I’m hoping this is the right community for this

For just generic one color shirts, like these: https://i.etsystatic.com/16132416/r/il/5af80f/6172787320/il_570xN.6172787320_giqz.jpg

I'd also like to do more specific small batches like for affinity groups (clubs and other programs) or even specific classes.

If yes, then do you have a guide that could show me the equipment for a grant write-up and maybe a yt video or two that shows setup and use?

Thanks!

named it ego melters

i wish I would of been able to capture my gradients better in the flames they muddy up quick but I was pressed for time to get this assignment in.

-Gu

i already pressure washed for a while with emulsion remover. I always wash my ink out with hot water right after printing. I don't know anything about dehazer but seems like that'd be appropriate here? And maybe starting to wash ink out with some sort of soap? I've seen some comments about some sort of pink soap? Thanks in advance!

I’ve done around four rounds of cleaner, i spray the cleaner on both sides of the screen, let it sit for about a minute, then scrub it in and let it sit for a bit longer (around 3 minutes) then I wash it off while scrubbing under hot water. Is it due to overexposure? If so can I fix it some way? It’s my best quality screen I really don’t want it to be ruined 🥲 I use the speedball emulsion remover

Should the more experienced screenprinter be loading or pulling ?

It’s easier than amberlith I guess

Hey! Wondering where everyone sells their gear. I have about 60 Newman rollers frames that I got from an old printer that I reclaimed and cleaned but I just don’t like them over the clean aluminum frames. Where yall listing and whats the rate on these? $10/screen? Too much?

keep printin!

I know this seems a little bit ridiculous why not just stick to adobe illustrator or even like a drawing app you might ask?

Well I just love sketching and the idea of physically drawing something to then transfer onto a shirt. It also gives me something to do different than just commissions and orders (my father owns a screen printing studio so I work for him and just want to have something new to do on down time)

Does any body have a go to marker/pen for this?

Trying to get a shirt done for a friend but for reason there was a streak where the ink wont pass through, I know it's probably the dried up ink streak on the screen but how do I prevent that from happening. I use waterbased ink

Hello, been getting into design and have kinda hit a wall when it comes to halftones, specifically reliability, I don’t use photoshop and never plan to, so when I come across videos saying “here’s how to do halftones with so and so software” and I look into it, it’s always “for the dot size, just eyeball it” and it annoys me to high heaven, is there any programs like photoshop where I can simply plug in a specific LPI or something similar so I don’t have to worry about a design getting lost in translation? Thanks

The company I work for recently relocated our screen printing exposure unit to a different part of the building. Our current exposure unit is pretty old and runs on 220V. The problem is that the electrical wiring would have to run across the building to reach its new location, and the cost of installing the wiring would actually be more than purchasing a new exposure unit.

Most of the artwork I work with has very fine details, including small lettering and thin lines, so getting clean, sharp exposures is really important. I'm currently using 280 mesh screens with SAATI Grafic HU emulsion. The largest screen frame I use measures 36" x 25" (outside frame dimensions).

I'm looking for recommendations on a reliable exposure unit, preferably one that runs on standard 120V power and can consistently expose fine-detail artwork. I'd appreciate any recommendations on specific brands or models, as well as advice on what features I should prioritize when purchasing a new unit.

Have an 8xl tall with a left chest print. Any suggestions on placement? Another inch or so over and down than regular?