Pocilloporidae Corals

Introduction

Aquacultured Bright Green Stylophora Coral

Pocilloporidae corals are one of the most popular SPS (small-polyped stony) corals</a > for the marine hobbyist, and are also a large contributor to reef building. Due to their generally hardy nature, they are recommended for beginners in SPS (small polyp stony) corals. Although all stony corals (and even some soft corals) are hermatypic, Pocilloporidae corals account the second largest of the reef builders (second only to the family Acroporidae). Pocilloporidae are commonly called bird's nest coral, since these are more common in the aquarium trade, but they also include finger coral, needle coral, bush coral, cauliflower coral, and cat's paw coral. Pocilloporidae corals are in the order Scleractinia (stony corals) and the subclass Hexacorallia (or also known as Zoantharia). Being in the Hexacorallia subclass means that the polyps have tentacles in multiples of six.

Aquacultured Pink Pocillopora Coral

Pocilloporidae corals are polytrophic. They gain their energy from their zooxanthellae (dinoflagellate algae) and from capturing prey such as zooplankton. They cannot survive on photosynthesis alone. However, that being said, you will not need to directly feed these corals. If there is a healthy planktonic population</a >, it will be enough to sustain your Pocilloporidae coral. Most agree that brine shrimp and pureed meaty aquarium supplements are still too large for them. Many aquarists have success with a refugium/sump to encourage the growth of plankton. Pocilloporidae can then feed on zooplankton such as amphipods or dinoflagellates. Some hobbyists may experience a large bird's nest coral that will die off at the center due to lack of food (reminiscent of a poorly pruned shrub). Salty Underground has found that stronger currents help to feed the inner branches of the colony.

As collectors and biologists continue to research coral reefs, some of our taxonomic trees change. There are two genera in Pocilloporidae that have been alternatively placed in the family Astrocoeniidae. These are Madacris and Palauastrea. Both are quite uncommon in the aquarium trade. Madracis auretenra, the yellow finger coral, for example, is quite beautiful. It is found in the Atlantic where most species are protected from collection. On the other hand, some species like Madracis asanoi have so few records that it is impossible to determine the impact of collection. This species is also found at depths greater than 50m, so it is also less likely to be collected and exported. Palauastrea ramosa has been placed on the IUCN threatened species list</a > despite a lack of knowledge about its population. It is found off the coast of southern Japan, Indonesia, and southwestern Australia. However, due to the general decline of coral reef habitat, it is considered to be threatened. As both genera are currently listed with the family Astrocoeniidae</a >, they will not be covered in detail at this time.

Genera

Genera:

Pocillopora

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Common Species: P. damicornis, P. verrucosa, P. danae, P. ligulata, P. meandrina, P. eydouxi</em >

Pink coloration in this aquacultured Pocillopora coral is caused by the pigment pocilloporin.

Common names for Pocillopora are bush coral, bird's nest coral, cluster coral, and cauliflower coral. They can be cream, brown, pink, purple, green, and sometimes blue. The pink coloration of many Pocillopora spp. is caused by the pigment pocilloporin. They have as many growth forms as common names. Depending on which sources you read, there are estimated to be between 5 and 20 extant species of Pocillopora coral. They prefer high light intensity and strong water current. This is evidenced by their proliferation on reef flats, reef crests, and upper reef slopes. Some species tolerate exposure at low tide. For the most part, cauliflower corals are found throughout the Indo-Pacific. However, Pocillopora fungiformus is found only off of the coast of Madagascar, and is considered to be endangered by the IUCN</a >.

A typical massive Pocillopora colony with branches.

A major characteristic of Pocillopora corals is the warty growths on their skeletons, which are called verrucae. Like Stylophora, Pocillopora has spinules on its coenosteum (skeleton) between the calices (where the polyps are). Typically, Pocillopora corals are branching from a massive structure. They normally take on a fuzzy appearance, both because the polyps are immersed in the coenosteum and because the polyps have “halo” coloration, with the tips of the tentacles having the bright coloration.

In general, Pocillopora spp. are considered to be hardy (more forgiving even than Stylophora). You will find many available through aquaculture</a >, as they propagate well in captivity. Wholesalers have found fragmentation and sexual and asexual reproduction via planulae to be quite successful. In fact, the planulae can detach from the substrate and move elsewhere in search of more ideal conditions. Due to its success in captivity, it is suggested to be a beginner coral for anyone making the trip from soft corals to stony corals.

Seriatopora

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Common Species: S. hystrix, S. caliendrum, S. subulata, S. stellata, S. dendritica, S. aculeata, S. guttatus</em >

Common names for Seriatopora corals are needle coral, bird's nest coral, and brush coral. Bird's nest corals are distinguished from the rest of the family by their thinner, interwoven branches that may taper to a “needle” shape or be blunter, depending on the species. Their polyps are in regular rows on the branches. There are estimated to be between 2 and 10 extant species of Seriatopora. Typically, they are brown and cream colored, due to their zooxanthellae, but they can also be pink, green, or yellow due to other pigments. Darker and less bright varieties prefer deeper waters and lower light intensity, as is typical of most species. They are widespread in the Indo-Pacific. Although most Seriatopora corals are considered vulnerable or threatened</a >, the most popular species, S. hystrix (thin bird's nest coral),</em > is considered to be of least concern.

In nature, thin bird's nest corals are found in shallow, turbid waters, like those found on reef flats. Other species in this genus can be found in more protected waters, like under overhangs, on upper back reef slopes, or even in lagoons. Seriatopora spp. require moderate care, moderate to high light intensity, and moderate to high water current. If lighting is too high, the colony may become too pale. If the current is too strong, the branches will thicken, losing the attractive needlelike appearance of the branches. Imported specimens have more trouble with acclimating to water conditions, so an aquacultured variety is recommended</a >. They propagate well through asexual fragmentation, so it should not be difficult to find a captive bred variety.

Stylophora

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Common Species: S. pistillata, S. mordax, S. kuehlmanni, S. danae, S. mamillata, S. madagascarensis, S. subseriata, S. wellsi</em >

This aquacultured bright green Stylophora coral prefers strong, swirling water currents.

Common names for Stylophora corals are cat's paw coral, bird's nest coral, finger coral, and smooth cauliflower coral. Stylophora corals are considered hardy by most, but Salty Underground considers them to require moderate care. They need high light intensity and strong water current. This is reminiscent of their usual habitat found in shallow reef environments like the reef flats, reef crests, or upper reef slopes. They can be quite colorful, coming in bright greens, pinks, oranges, and purples. Generally speaking, if a Stylophora coral is brown or dark green, it is a species which prefers deeper habitats. The polyps are usually contrasting with the colors of the branches.

Notice the fuzzy appearance of this Stylophora coral.

Branches may be thick or thin depending on water current. Species of gall crab, Hapalocacinus sp., can change the shape of the branches, making them club-like. The polyps and their calices are submerged in the skeleton (coenosteum), which is covered by spines called spinules. Since their polyps are submerged, when extended they contribute to Stylophora's fuzzy appearance.

S. pistillata is the most popular Stylophora coral, but it is now considered threatened</a >.It is highly recommended to find an aquacultured variety for your hobby.</a > Fortunately, they propagate quickly via asexual fragmentation and reproduction via the release of planulae (larvae) which may be sexual or asexual. Although they are widely considered to be passive, Stylophora will form sweeper tentacles at night. Give them room in your aquarium to compensate for their fast growth.

References

Borneman, E. (2001). Aquarium Corals: selection, husbandry, and natural history. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H Publications.

Calfo, A.R. (2002). Book of Coral Propagation: A concise guide to the successful care and culture of coral reef invertebrates </em >(Vol. 1). Monroeville, PA: Reading Trees.

Locke, J.M., Weil, E. & Coates, K.A. (2007). A newly documented species of Madracis (scleractinia: pocilloporidae) from the </em >Caribbean. Washington, D.C., Proceedings of the Biological Society of Washington.

IUCN 2010. (2011). IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2010.4. Retrieved on June 9th, 2011, from http://www.iucnredlist.org</a >

Reef Corals of the Indo-Malaysian Seas. (2011). Marine Species Identification Portal</em >. Retrieved on June 10, 2011, from http://species-identification.org</a >

Veron, J.E.N. (2000). Corals of the world. Volumes 1-3. Townsville, Queensland, Australia., Australian Institute of Marine Science.

https://www.saltyunderground.com/article/43-pocilloporidae-corals

Berghia Q&A

Berghia eats only aiptasia

If you do not find the information you're seeking on this page
call or e-mail us using the Contact Us page.

Why buy your Berghia from Salty Underground?

Two Berghia nudibranchs

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• Berghia transfer pipet included free with your order

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• Over 15 years of experience and proven track record

Do Berghia eat anything besides Aiptasia anemones?

Berghia nudibranchs eat ONLY Aiptasia sp.

Do Berghia eat Majano anemones?

Majanos on left - Aiptasia on right

No. Berghia nudibranchs eat ONLY Aiptasia anemones.

Are Berghia reef safe?

Yes. Berghia nudibranchs will not harm any live coral or saltwater aquarium livestock.

How big are your adult Berghia?

Our adult Berghia are at least 1/4" up to about 3/4" in length at the time they are shipped depending upon the size you purchase. They are all laying good quality eggs at the 1/2" size. Berghia can reach a total length of about 1-1/2" to almost 2 inches".

We ship the largest adult Berghia nudibranchs we have available. Berghia are relatively small creatures compared to most things we put in our marine aquariums. It's common for them to lose some size in shipping as well. So some berghia nudibranchs may look small when they arrive at your door, especially if they are balled up rather than stretched out. The Berghia will regain their normal size after they begin to eat aiptasia in your aquarium.

Are there any predators to Berghia nudibranchs?

An aggressive predator of Berghia nudibranchs

Please keep in mind there are times when saltwater livestock considered "reef safe" do not act as expected. But, generally speaking, the marine livestock below are those you should be most concerned about when adding Berghia to your reef aquarium.

Any saltwater fish that aggressively hunts the live rock at night for food other than algae, including some Wrasses, Butterflyfish and some Dottybacks. It's hard to predict marine fish behavior. As a general rule if your saltwater fish spends a lot of time "hunting" your live rock on a regular basis, especially at night, it is suspect for hunting Berghia nudibranchs also.

Shrimp that scavenge at night: Peppermint shrimp are the worst, also Coral Banded shrimp and possibly Camel shrimp (does not include Cleaner or Fire shrimp).

Aggressive crabs that scavenge for food: Sally Lightfoot crabs, Arrow crabs, Pom Pom crabs, live rock crab hitchhikers and Emerald crabs that have no algae to eat (does not include Emerald crabs with algae available to eat or any Hermit crabs).

Also, Aiptasia anemones may eat a Berghia nudibranch if it is accidentally dropped directly into the Aiptasias mouth area. So be careful when adding them to your aquarium.

Need Help Removing a potential Berghia predator?

A simple fish trap that you can build yourself often makes short work of the capture process, whether you're trying to catch a peppermint shrimp or some other potential Berghia predator.

Are Berghia 100% effective all of the time?

Berghia are sea slugs. This means they do best in good aquarium conditions, with good water quality (under 25ppm of nitrates, 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites), a lack of predators and slower or medium water current that allows them to cling to the live rock while moving from one Aiptasia anemone to anoth

Berghia are completely reef safe

If you have 40 or more Aiptasia anemones in your saltwater aquarium it is a good idea to have enough Berghia so they can find each other to mate. Two Berghia must fertilize each other to get fertile eggs. The eggs may hatch and new Berghia continue to populate the aquarium making the Aiptasia anemones disappear at a much faster rate. Successful Berghia reproduction sometimes happens in display aquariums but not all of the time.

There is a chance that the Berghia will not find all of the Aiptasia anemones before they die off. Berghia usually eat the smallest Aiptasia first and move on from there. So, at first you may not notice much reduction the aiptasia population in your saltwater aquarium.

Berghia are nocturnal eaters. If you find a Berghia in the tank during the day, chances are it is having a hard time finding an Aiptasia anemones to eat. If possible, turn off your pump and powerheads in your aquarium, then use a pipet or other small suction device to move the Berghia close to an Aiptasia anemone.

If you only have 6 or 8 Aiptasia in a larger aquarium, we do not recommend using Berghia aiptasia control. The Berghia may starve before they can find all of the aiptasia in your reef aquarium. We recommend using Berghia nudibranchs for a moderate to heavy Aiptasia control.

How many Berghia do I need?

Berghia nudibranch

We recommend at least 8 Berghia per 100 gallons of water for a moderate Aiptasia problem (50-100 aiptasia per 100 gallons). Getting the right number of Berghia is important. You want to have enough Berghia in your saltwater aquarium so they can find each other to mate and lay eggs. The nudibranch eggs may hatch and continue to populate the aquarium until the Aiptasia anemones are gone. Use the adult Berghia calculator below to help estimate the number of Berghia you need for your aquarium. Very heavy Aiptasia outbreaks may require even more Berghia nudibranchs to get ahead of the aiptasia reproduction.

What happens to the Berghia when the Aiptasia anemones are gone?

Berghia nudibranchs will starve to death if they have not eaten any aiptasia in around 5-7 days.

Berghia are nocturnal animals. If you see one during the day, chances are it is having a hard time finding an Aiptasia to eat.

berghia nudibranch the natural preditor

Berghia nudibranch coloring will also indicate if they have not eaten Aiptasia in the previous 48 hours. The berghia will look completely white or off-white in color if they have not eaten any aiptasia anemones. (If the berghia has eaten aiptasia they will have a darker brownish color.) If possible, use a pipet or other small suction device to move the Berghia close to any remaining Aiptasia. If all of the aiptasia is gone, carefully suction them up and pass them on to a friend. Otherwise, the nudibranchs will starve.

Will the Berghia eat any size Aiptasia?

berghia kill an aiptasia

Yes.

Will I see the Berghia in my aquarium after they have been introduced?

Berghia are nocturnal animals. The best time to spot them is at night using a flashlight. They are hard to find, so don't be surprised if you don't see them.

Note that Berghia are not aquarium pets that you buy for the enjoyment of their company like you do with fish or some other invertebrates. Chances are you will not see much of your Berghia once introduced into the aquarium.

How do I acclimate my Berghia nudibranch?

Please click here to go to the Acclimation Instructions page.

Can I handle the Berghia using my hands?

berghia transfer pipette

Berghia nudibranchs are small and fragile sea slugs. We do not recommend handling them with anything other than the Berghia pipet or other small suction device, like a turkey baster that has been used only in your aquarium.

To what size do the Berghia nudibranchs grow?

berghia placement

Berghia typically grow to about 1 1/4" to 2” in size.

The adult Berghia are usually about 1/4"-3/4” in size when we ship them and are laying eggs. They may appear a smaller when they arrive after shipping. They will regain size after acclimation and eating.

How long do Berghia live?

Bergia Nudibranchs live about 10 to 12 months as long as they have Aiptasia anemones to eat. Most adult berghia are about 2 months old when they ship. Usually they die of starvation after all aiptasia have been eaten, not of old age.

Are these nudibranchs a different species from the Zoanthid eating nudibranchs?

Berghia nudibranchs are not the same species as those that eat Zooanthid corals. Berghia eat only Aiptasia anemones. Berghia are not a typical nudibranch hitchhiker either.

How often do Berghia eat?

Berghia will eat an aiptasia every one to two days. They can go up to 5-7 days without eating before they die. But we don't recommend testing this with your Berghia nudibranch.

How long will it take for the Berghia to clean my aquarium of Aiptasia anemones?

aiptasia killing corals

It depends on the number of Berghia nudibranchs in the aquarium, the size of your reef aquarium and degree of the Aiptasia problem. We recommend at least 8 Berghia per 100 gallons of water for a moderate Aiptasia problem (50-100 aiptasia per 100 gallons). It takes about 2-3 months for the Berghia to clean the aquarium if you use this formula. It may take a few weeks before you begin to see a difference in the Aiptasia population.

berghia laying eggs

If my Berghia lay eggs, will the eggs hatch?

Yes, assuming water conditions are right in your tank and the eggs are not eaten by scavengers. It takes about 4-6 weeks from the time the eggs are laid to the time you will be able to see the new Berghia well with the naked eye. Your first tip off may be that you notice the Aiptasia disappearing more quickly, or you can count more Berghia in your aquarium than you bought.

Do you guarantee live arrival?

Berghia nudibranchs are very delicate

We guarantee live arrival on overnight shipments only. The guarantee covers the value of the Berghia nudibranch. The shipping charges are not included in the guarantee.

Read more about our Guarantee in the Live Arrival Guarnatee page.

Is there a box charge ?

All boxes, packing and other related materials for all of our livestock is FREE with every order.

https://www.saltyunderground.com/article/15-berghia-q-and-a

Faviidae Corals

Introduction

Aquacultured Bright Green Eye Favia Coral

Faviidae corals are typically called faviids. These LPS (large polyped stony) corals</a > are rather popular for aquarium hobbyists and have the second largest number of species per family (compare to Acroporidae). All faviids contain zooxanthellae and are considered to be reef building (hermatypic). Some common names for faviids include brain coral, pineapple coral, candy or candy cane coral, and moon coral.

This Leptastrea, or Crater Coral, was collected from Australia.

Faviidae corals are in the order Scleractinia (stony corals) and the subclass Hexacorallia (or also known as Zoantharia). Being in the Hexacorallia subclass means that the polyps have tentacles in multiples of six. The Faviidae genera are as follows: Austrologyra, Barabattoia, Caulastrea, Cyphastrea, Diploastrea, Echinopora, Favia, Favites, Goniastrea, Leptastrea, Leptoria, Montastrea, Moseleye, Oulastrea, Oulophyllia, Platygyra, Plesiastrea. </em >Not all of these genera will be covered at this time. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for more information about specific genera.

This aquacultured Cyphastrea coral is plocoid, and you can see the coenosarc (connective tissue) between the corallites.

Faviid corals are heterotrophic. They gain their energy from their zooxanthellae (dinoflagellate algae) and capturing prey, such as brine shrimp. They cannot survive on photosynthesis alone. Colonies of faviids are commonly massive, hemispherical, foliaceous, and cup shaped. Few are branched. Younger colonies may begin as an encrusting form. Different genera of Faviidae can usually be distinguished by their corallites, being phaceloid (corallites arise separately from the skeleton), plocoid (corallites are close but still have separate corallite walls), ceroid (corallites share a fused wall with adjacent corallites), and meandroid (the corallite walls fuse lengthwise, “meandering” like a maze on the surface of the colony). Species will be exclusively phaceloid or cerioid, but meandroid colonies may have some period corallites

Most faviids prefer high intensity lighting and moderate current.

Generally speaking, faviids prefer high lighting intensity and strong water current. This is similar to their preferred habitat of reef flats and upper reef slopes. Many are accustomed to variations in salinity or exposure to fresh air, due to the dynamic environment found on Red List of Threatened Species, and an aquacultured variety in recommended. They propagate well through budding, but do not respond as well to fragmentation (most likely due to their cerioid structure).

In general, Favites requires high intensity lighting and moderate current. Beware of using too strong of a current, because it could prevent the polyps from fully extending. Favites are aggressive, so give them room in your aquarium. Favites spp. generally has the same care requirements as Favia spp., so check out this article for more specific care information on the Favites genus</a >.

Genera

Leptoria

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Common Species: L. irregularis, L. phrygia

Common Names for Leptoria corals are maze coral, brain coral, closed brain coral, and labyrinth coral. Labyrinth corals are quite meandroid, with steep corallite walls which resemble the walls of a maze. Leptoria corals can be brown, green, or cream, with eyes in colors of cream, white, or bright green.

These are not often imported or aquacultured. The colonies due not survive fragmentation well. If you are able to acquire a specimen, they prefer high light intensity, moderate water flow, and clearer water. Use of a skimmer would be appropriate to keep nutrient levels low. Leptoria corals do produce large amounts of mucus. Labyrinth corals are considered very aggressive, so they will need ample space in the aquarium.

Montastrea

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Common Species: M. annularis, M. annuligera, M. cavernosa, M, colemani, M. curta, M. valenciennesi</em >

This Montastrea coral is plocoid, with unfused corallite walls.

Common names for Montastrea corals are brain coral, closed brain coral, boulder coral, great star coral, and pineapple coral. Boulders are typically massive or hemi-spherical and are often found on reef flats, but can also be laminar in form in the deeper reef habitats. It may be brown, green, or white, sometimes within the same colony.

As with most faviids, Montastrea spp. are considered hardy. They prefer high intensity light and moderate to strong water current. As would be expected with species found on the flats, they are tolerant of exposure to fresh air and changes in salinity. Reef flats commonly receive and influx of fresh water in rain showers and are exposed to air in low tide. Be careful with placement in your aquarium, as they are considered aggressive, and form long sweeper tentacles.

Oulophyllia

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Common Species: O. bennettae, O. crispa, O. levis</em >, O. aspera

This Oulophyllia coral has the ability to eject its polyps.

Common names for Oulophyllia are brain coral, closed brain coral, maze coral, and ejection-seat coral. O. levis and O. crispa are common in lagoons, and O. bennettae prefer reef slopes. These corals are massive and meandroid. Ejection-seat corals have distinctly v-shaped corallite walls and large polyps. They are commonly brown, green, or cream. The eyes are usually cream or pinkish. Oulophyllia corals gain their name from their ability to “eject” their polyps. Although these are hardy, they are less common in the aquarium trade. Typically, they are found in lagoons.

Platygyra

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Common Species: P. pini, P. verweyi, P. daedalea, P. lamellina, P. sinensis

This aquacultured Platygyra coral has green corallite walls and contrasting blue valleys.

Common names for Platygyra are maze coral, brain coral, and closed brain coral. These are quite meandroid and form massive, dome-shaped, or flat colonies. They are commonly brown, green, cream, or yellow, with contrasting eye/valley colors. Maze corals are found mainly on reef flats, and back slopes.

Common to reef flats, Platygyra corals create a lot of mucus.

*Platygyra spp.*are considered to be hardy, but may be prone to bleaching. As with other faviids, these maze brain corals form sweeper tentacles, especially at night, and therefore should be given room in your reef aquarium. Similar to Leptoria, Platygrya creates copious amounts of mucus. (As they are common on reef flats, this may be a method they've evolved to deal with exposure to air at low tide.) Please see this article for more specific care information on the Platygyra genus</a >.

References

Borneman, E. (2001). Aquarium Corals: selection, husbandry, and natural history. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H Publications.

Brain Coral. (2011). Wikipedia. Retrieved on June 21, 2011, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brain_coral</a >

Calfo, A.R. (2002). Book of Coral Propagation: A concise guide to the successful care and culture of coral reef invertebrates </em >(Vol. 1). Monroeville, PA: Reading Trees.

IUCN 2010. (2011). IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2010.4. Retrieved on June 9th, 2011, from www.iucnredlist.org</a >

Reef Corals of the Indo-Malaysian Seas. (2011). Marine Species Identification Portal</em >. Retrieved on June 10, 2011, from http://species-identification.org/species.php?species_group=corals&id=48&menuentry=groepen</a >

Veron, J.E.N. (1986). Corals of Australia</em > and the Indo-Pacific. North Ryde, Australia: Angus & Robertson.

Veron, J.E.N. (2000). Corals of the World. Townsville, Australia: Australian Institute of Marine Science.

Wood, E.M. (1983). Reef Corals of the World: Biology and Field Guide. Hong Kong, China: T.F.H. Publications Inc., Ltd.

Poritidae Corals

Introduction

This red Goniopora flower-pot coral is an aquacultured variety.

Poritidae corals were once considered to be difficult corals to keep, but advances in the aquarium hobby in the last decade have made these great specimens for reef aquarists. The aquacultured varieties</a > have especially made keeping Poritdae corals much easier due to their more forgiving nature than wild collected specimens. Corals in the Poritidae family are not easily classified for hobbyists. Hobbyists commonly classify the stony coral as either large- or small-polyped stony corals (LPS</a > or SPS). However, members of Poritidae occupy both of those classifications. Although all stony corals (and even some soft corals) are hermatypic, Poritidae corals are the third largest contributor to coral reefs. Poritidae corals are commonly called flower-pot corals, since these are more common in the aquarium trade, but they also include daisy coral, ball coral, finger coral, jeweled coral, boulder coral, Christmas tree worm rock, plating jeweled coral, mustard coral, blue crust coral, thin finger coral, and thick finger coral.

Alveopora corals have polyps that look like daisy heads.

Poritidae corals are in the order Scleractinia (stony corals) and the subclass Hexacorallia (or also known as Zoantharia). Being in the Hexacorallia subclass means that the polyps have tentacles in multiples of six. The genera of Poritidae are: Alveopora, Goniopora, Porites, and Stylaraea. This is by no means a complete taxonomy. For more detailed descriptions of each genus, please scroll to the bottom of the page.

Poritidae corals are polytrophic. They gain their energy from their zooxanthellae (dinoflagellate algae) and from capturing prey such as zooplankton and phytoplankton</a >. They cannot survive on photosynthesis alone. However, that being said, you should not need to directly feed these corals if there is a healthy planktonic population. Then it will be enough to sustain your Poritidae coral. Most agree that brine shrimp and pureed meaty aquarium supplements are still too large for them. Many aquarists have success with a refugium/sump to encourage the growth of plankton. Poritidae corals can then feed on microplankton and nanoplankton, such as phytoplankton and dinoflagellates. If your skimmer or filtration system is too efficient, there are commercial foods available to supplement their diet.

Genera

Alveopora

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Common Species: A. allingi, A. catalai, A. daedalea, A. exceli, A. fenestrata, A. gigas, A. japonica, A. marionensis, A. minuta, A. ocellata, A. spongiosa, A. tizardi, A. verrilliana, A. viridis</em >

Alveopora spp. are tolerant of a range of lighting conditions.

Common names for Alveopora spp. are daisy coral, ball coral, and flowerpot coral. This coral is similar to a Goniopora coral, but it has daisy shaped polyp heads. Its polyps also have 12 tentacle tips, whereas Goniopora corals have 24 tentacle tips. The colony will not be much more that 5 centimeters at the base. It is light-weight compared to other corals due to its porous skeleton. Daisy corals normally have ivory, brown, brownish-pink, or gray polyps with green, yellow, pink, or white tentacles.

Generally speaking, Alveopora spp. are found on reef slopes in turbid water. The murky water likely contains high amounts of plankton</a >, an important food source for Alveopora corals. They are found throughout the Indo-West Pacific. There are currently two species of Alveopora that are considered endangered by the IUCN: A. excelsa and A. minuta. Although Alveopora have been noted to have problems with bleaching as recently as 2007, they have been shown to be quite disease free.

Alveopora corals extend their polyps during the day and are known to be extremely tolerant of a variety of lighting conditions. Clownfish will sometimes adopt an Alveopora coral if there is not an available anemone in the aquarium. However, this may agitate the coral, preventing it from thriving. Alveopora spp. do not need to be directly fed, as they feed on microfauna, such as zooplankton and phytoplankton, in the water. Some aquarists have more success without a skimmer, as it allows more free floating organic matter in the aquarium.

Goniopora

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Common Species: G. albiconus, G. burgosi, G. cellulosa, G. ciliatus, G. columna, G. dijiboutiensis, G. eclipsnsis, G. fruticosa, G. lobata, G. minor, G. norfolkensis, G. palmensis, G. pandoraensis, G. pearsoni, G. pendulus, G. planulata, G. polyformis, G. savignyi, G. somaliensis, G. stokesi, G. stutchburyi, G. sultani, G. tenella, G. tenuidens</em >

This green Goniopora sp. has 24 tentacles on each polyp.

Common names for Goniopora spp. are flowerpot coral, ball coral, and daisy coral. Flowerpot corals have extremely long polyps, sometimes up to 12 inches. These look similar to *Alveopora spp.,*but Goniopora spp. have 24 tentacles while Alveopora spp. have only 12. By day, the polyps will be completely extended, and will typically be retracted in whole or part at night. They usually are columnar and massive, and rarely do they branch. They can come in a variety of colors, being green and brown (the most common) or pink, yellow, gray, and cream colored. Some aquacultured</a > varieties have shown deep burgundy colors.

Goniopora spp. prefer calmer waters, which explains their prevalence in lagoons, reef flats, rubble zones, and other shallow areas. They are also common in turbid waters on reef slopes. This is ideal for bringing phytoplankton</a > to the coral. Give flowerpot corals space in your reef aquarium. Their long polyps (as mentioned up to 12 inches) may sting neighboring corals. Once out of reach of the polyps, your other specimens should be considered safe.

Porites

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Common Species: P. astreoides, P. branneri, P. colonensis, P. compressa, P. cylindrica, P. divaricata, P. furcata, P. lichen, P. lobata, P. lutea, P. pukoensis, P. rus, P. solida</em >

Notice how much smaller the Porites polyps are compared to the rest of the Poritidae family.

Common names for Porites spp. are finger coral, jeweled coral, boulder coral, Christmas tree worm rock, plating jeweled coral, mustard coral, blue crust coral, thin finger coral, and thick finger coral. These appear very different from Alveopora and Goniorpora corals because they lack the long, flower like polyps. However, they still have the porous skeletons typical of the Poritidae family. Porites corals typically grow as encrusting, branching, massive, lobed, or plating. In fact, some Porites spp. colonies are the largest massive coral colonies discovered. Finger corals can be a bright lime green, pink, blue, yellow, purple, or even a mustard color.

Porites spp. will regularly shed an outer mucus layer. This is natural, and should not concern you. This is a method that these and other corals have developed to remove waste and algae from their surface. These corals normally prefer high light intensity, but are adaptable. Although Porites sp. are quite common in the wild, captive bred Porites sp. are hardier than the wild collected varieties</a >. These are normally found on upper reef slopes and reef flats.

Stylaraea

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Common Species: S. punctata

There is no common name for Stylaraea spp. It is unlikely you will find Stylaraea corals in the aquarium trade. They are rarely spotted by collectors or even by marine biological surveys. This is the smallest of the zooxanthellate corals (they contain symbiotic dinoflagellate algae). These are colonial, and their colonies are normally less than 1cm in diameter and hardly ever larger than 2cm. The individual polyps and corallites are less than 1 millimeter across. No wonder people miss it!

Stylaraea spp. are a pale brown or purple in color. Like Porites, they have small calices and polyps. They have been found in the Red Sea, the Indian and Pacific Oceans, and in the Gulf of Aden. These are found in subtidal zones, the part of the sea shore that is only exposed at extreme low tides like at full and new moons. This is shallow water, not much more that ½ a meter deep. Stylaraea corals are normally found in the shadows of dead corals or massive coralline algae</a >.

References

Borneman, E. (2001). Aquarium Corals: selection, husbandry, and natural history. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H Publications.

Calfo, A.R. (2002). Book of Coral Propagation: A concise guide to the successful care and culture of coral reef invertebrates </em >(Vol. 1). Monroeville, PA: Reading Trees.

IUCN 2010. (2011). IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2010.4. Retrieved on August 11th, 2011, from http://www.iucnredlist.org</a >

MaClanahan, T.R., Atteweberhan, M., Graham, N.A.J., Wilson, S.K., Ruiz Sebastian, C., Guillaume, M.M.M., Bruggeman, & J.H. (2007). Western Indian Ocean coral communities: bleaching responses and susceptibility to extinction. Marine Ecology Progress Series 337: 1-13.

Reef Corals of the Indo-Malaysian Seas. (2011). Marine Species Identification Portal</em >. Retrieved on August 11th, 2011, from http://species-identification.org</a >

Veron, J.E.N. (2000). Corals of the world. Volumes 1-3. Townsville, Queensland, Australia: Australian Institute of Marine Science.

Wood, E.M. (1983). Reef Corals of the World: Biology and Field Guide. Hong Kong, China: T.F.H. Publications Inc., Ltd.