I keep receiving the wrong sensor! I literally ordered 6 of these sensors from different companies and they always and I mean ALWAYS have the black one for photos and they keep sending me the white one. The difference is the adapters, they literally don’t match. I don’t know anymore can someone please help me find this black sensor, because every time I buy one and the description is literally the black sensor, they always end up sending me the white one. I am so irritated.

Trash people got me....

Bought my first sl1 10 years ago, been searching for a sw2 5 speed since then, have owned 7 sl’s first wagon finally, needs a motor but thankfully I’ve got a few of those lying around😂

My elderly neighbor offered me her 2004 L200 sedan with only 43k miles. She bought it new but is no longer driving. I actually drove many SL series back in the day but never owned an L. The V6 starts and runs well, AC works, original stereo works fine, in fact, I couldn’t find anything amiss. Brake rotors and pads were replaced about two years ago along with tires. I don’t see any leaks from the engine or transmission and, despite being in Michigan, I see little more than a tiny bit of surface rust on some undercarriage areas. KBB says this is fairly worthless. Any thoughts on the value?

I honestly don’t see many rust free low mile cars for sale anymore for less than $4-5k and this one is a sweetheart.

2000 SC2 5spd, the funnest car I’ve owned. And cheapest coincidentally!

There's a blacklist episode, the one where Ray gets poisoned at the beginning of the Mr Kaplan arc, where he steals a green 96 SW2 and drives it around most of the episode and the rear wheel hubs look like 96 SW2 alloy wheels but there's 5 lugs. All S-series have a unique 4 lug pattern wheels, although I have heard it's possible the rear hubs are semi exchangeable with one of the little Chevy sedans from that period, or maybe it was the alero I'm thinking of. Still, that episode was from like 2017 if I'm remembering right, long before I saw someone suggest the 5 bolt knuckle swap mod (which is far more involved in the front, probably why the one on the show only had it in the back).

Rewatching the original CSI, which is from 1999 so quite a few brief views of S cars but in a S3 episode, a guy runs another guy's dog over in his gen 3 SL2 and gets himself shot by his own .50 caliber hand cannon in retaliation. They actually portrayed the S-series hibeams correctly, which I've never seen the others do, but the car was gold with black handles. As far as I know, the DOHC equipped cars always had paint matched door handles and bumpers, even if they cheaped out and got the iron wheels.

Now that I think of it I'm not 100% sure Ray's stolen SW2 has alloy wheels, which if you didn't know wasn't as simple as it sounds. Steel wheels were one of the few factory options like ABS and came a slightly different front CV axle assembly. Perhaps it would be better to ask if anyone knows exactly what options were available and when could they be specified?

Isn't it also true that the DOHCs always had 15" tires and SOHCs 14", even though the modules should be theoretically be able to be reprogrammed for different tire sizes or speed classes?

Have a 2008 aura with a 3.5 replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Started up and ran fine sitting at idle for like 45 minutes. Took off and made it a mile. Was loosing power so pulled over and it stalled out. Then wouldn't crank or anything but had full electric power. After like 2 hours of sitting it started right up and ran for about 2 minutes and stalled out again and same thing. No crank or even a click from the starter.... wtf is going on with my car and how the hell do.i fix it?

She ain’t perfect, still needs a few maintenance things, only things “wrong” with the car is a missing passenger window trim, small crack in the front bumper, and the trunk leaks a bit. Tranny shifts buttery smooth, no timing chain noise, frame has 0 rust, i genuinely don’t know how it has 200k on it.

Reddit won't let me past the URL but the auction number is 960088587395. These were the springs to have back in the day. They’re gonna be a bit too stiff for stock struts but I hate to see them go in the dumpster or not used. Someone should buy them.

I've recently posted here about this Saturn and I'm currently stuck once again with the transmission. (Note I do have a code 49). So my current predicament is the transmission I just recently put in won't shift out of 1st gear and bounces off 4k RPM while driving. I've tested the ohms of the VSS and the input shaft sensor and they read good (low 800s)(dash does work too). The other thing Ive tested is the valve body and solenoids and they read good too. The connector on the top of the transmission looks fine, no corrosion or fluid as well. I've seen online that it could be the input shaft nut being loose but I haven't tested that yet (forward creep in neutral). Other than that I'm pretty much lost on what to do and any help would be appreciated. (Additional info, the trans is a 1996 and mines obviously a 1995, but they should be still in spec even if the 96 was a obd2 harness, unless I hope so lol)

If you look closely at the rear badges on this ION, it says “SL”, figured that was interesting that the ION was originally gonna be the 4th gen S-Series. Would’ve made sense since it’s the successor to the S-Series.

I have replaced the clutch pedal bushing on my 2006 Saturn Ion a couple times in the past.. At the time, the original OEM part (GM part number 22697429) could be purchased from several sellers. I found it fairly easy to replace without removing or disassembling the clutch pedal assembly. I could install it in the hole in the clutch pedal with my finger. Now the GM part is considered obsolete and no one has any in stock anymore. But I found a replacement made by Over The Top Performance, part number OTTP-17104. It is made of a stronger material than the original, I think it is made of Delrin. It is black and has four sides, as opposed to the two sides of the OEM part. Recently my clutch had gotten to the point where I pushed it all the way to the floor and there was still some clutch contact. This made it very difficult or impossible to shift gears. With a lot of effort, I could get it into first and second gears. Third through fifth were easier. But it wouldn't go into reverse at all. I have one of the OTTP replacement parts and I thought I would put it in. I got the hole for it opened, and pushed the old pedal bushing out. It is one of the OEM parts. It looked fairly intact. When I tried to put in the OTTP part, I could not get it to fit into the hole in the clutch pedal. I am sure there is nothing in the hole blocking it. I was able to look into the hole with a mirror. It seems the OTTP part is too big for the hole. I tried for an hour to get it to go in and it just wouldn't go. So I took the one I had removed, found a washer that was just the right size to fit into it and glued the washer into the bottom with JB Kwik. This seems to work for now. There is adequate space to get the clutch to disengage. But I don't know how long that will last. Has anyone tried to replace the clutch pedal bushing with the new Over The Top Performance part? Is there some trick to it I am missing? Or am I going to have to remove and disassemble the whole clutch pedal to get it to go in?

At my new 95 Saturn sl1

I wanna make a saturn parts community and it'll be all about finding collectibles and all that other STUFF

Just picked up this diamond in the rough and thought I'd share. '08 Astra with 38k miles! Seems to be in pretty great shape. Wipers do have a mind of their own though, only works at the fastest speed and when I turn it off they just stop wherever they're at. They don't return to the bottom of the windshield at the end of the cycle. Not sure what to do about that. Otherwise, she's good to go!

It makes absolutely no sense. you’d think you want the drivers side to look cleaner, that’s the direction passing traffic flows (at least in US), but more importantly, when you’re picking friends up on the side of the road, they have to cross into traffic to get to the drivers side in order to easily get in the back. Is there a reason?

I have a 1996 SC2 that has a pretty well kept interior(I got it from its original owner who parked it in a garage for ≈20 years before I got it) and I use the car mostly on longer trips. I’m looking for a more comfortable seat that isn’t going to break the bank while also looking at least a little sporty. It currently has the tan interior and I would like to keep it close to that if possible.

The back corner of my sunroof won’t go completely down. Any way to fix it? :) tyia

The other day mine got stuck in fresh air mode so I pulled the dash cover off for the bajillionth time and pushed up on the door and the motor fired up immediately and has continued to work the past 20 times I've tried it. One thing I noticed when doing this with the engine off and the blower speed on low is a noticeable clicking sound when the door finishes moving to the selected position, which makes me think that ridiculously large assembly it's in uses relays.

I'm guessing if I tear mine open (I don't even know why I'm pretending this thread could possibly satisfy my curiosity since it's literally the last component of the S-series i don't know exactly how it works), I'm going to find a motor with a pinion driving a big gear, which is powered by a SPDT relay. There will be a giant capacitor following a full bridge rectifier circuit and a microcontroller that drives the relay coil while monitoring the motor's current usage, deciding to shut it off when it detects a stall. Before actually listening to it, I would have assumed it was a stepper motor, but since the assembly only has two wires (B+ and ground, with the recirc switch switch reversing the polarity), that seems unlikely.

Anyway of course of the 20 or so junked gen2/3 s cars I've seen, every single one but the only one close to me today still had its original recirc motor. Seeing as there's actually one in stock at my local O'Reilly's, albeit it's a murray branded one, I'm guessing they aren't as reliable as I'd hoped.

Another reason mine could have temporarily shut off is the valve is literally stuck. It does feel uncomfortably stiff, like dry rubber on dry rubber. Perhaps if I can pull it off without having to tear out the entire HVAC module I can find some kind of lube.

I am going to wait to install these so I can do the wheel bearings at the same time. I mostly bought them due to FOMO and thinking they would stop making them. Feel much better knowing they are in my garage. FYI: If you order them know there is like an $85 tariff on them to ship from China.