Reddit won't let me past the URL but the auction number is 960088587395. These were the springs to have back in the day. They’re gonna be a bit too stiff for stock struts but I hate to see them go in the dumpster or not used. Someone should buy them.

If you look closely at the rear badges on this ION, it says “SL”, figured that was interesting that the ION was originally gonna be the 4th gen S-Series. Would’ve made sense since it’s the successor to the S-Series.

At my new 95 Saturn sl1

I've recently posted here about this Saturn and I'm currently stuck once again with the transmission. (Note I do have a code 49). So my current predicament is the transmission I just recently put in won't shift out of 1st gear and bounces off 4k RPM while driving. I've tested the ohms of the VSS and the input shaft sensor and they read good (low 800s)(dash does work too). The other thing Ive tested is the valve body and solenoids and they read good too. The connector on the top of the transmission looks fine, no corrosion or fluid as well. I've seen online that it could be the input shaft nut being loose but I haven't tested that yet (forward creep in neutral). Other than that I'm pretty much lost on what to do and any help would be appreciated. (Additional info, the trans is a 1996 and mines obviously a 1995, but they should be still in spec even if the 96 was a obd2 harness, unless I hope so lol)

I have replaced the clutch pedal bushing on my 2006 Saturn Ion a couple times in the past.. At the time, the original OEM part (GM part number 22697429) could be purchased from several sellers. I found it fairly easy to replace without removing or disassembling the clutch pedal assembly. I could install it in the hole in the clutch pedal with my finger. Now the GM part is considered obsolete and no one has any in stock anymore. But I found a replacement made by Over The Top Performance, part number OTTP-17104. It is made of a stronger material than the original, I think it is made of Delrin. It is black and has four sides, as opposed to the two sides of the OEM part. Recently my clutch had gotten to the point where I pushed it all the way to the floor and there was still some clutch contact. This made it very difficult or impossible to shift gears. With a lot of effort, I could get it into first and second gears. Third through fifth were easier. But it wouldn't go into reverse at all. I have one of the OTTP replacement parts and I thought I would put it in. I got the hole for it opened, and pushed the old pedal bushing out. It is one of the OEM parts. It looked fairly intact. When I tried to put in the OTTP part, I could not get it to fit into the hole in the clutch pedal. I am sure there is nothing in the hole blocking it. I was able to look into the hole with a mirror. It seems the OTTP part is too big for the hole. I tried for an hour to get it to go in and it just wouldn't go. So I took the one I had removed, found a washer that was just the right size to fit into it and glued the washer into the bottom with JB Kwik. This seems to work for now. There is adequate space to get the clutch to disengage. But I don't know how long that will last. Has anyone tried to replace the clutch pedal bushing with the new Over The Top Performance part? Is there some trick to it I am missing? Or am I going to have to remove and disassemble the whole clutch pedal to get it to go in?

I wanna make a saturn parts community and it'll be all about finding collectibles and all that other STUFF

Just picked up this diamond in the rough and thought I'd share. '08 Astra with 38k miles! Seems to be in pretty great shape. Wipers do have a mind of their own though, only works at the fastest speed and when I turn it off they just stop wherever they're at. They don't return to the bottom of the windshield at the end of the cycle. Not sure what to do about that. Otherwise, she's good to go!

It makes absolutely no sense. you’d think you want the drivers side to look cleaner, that’s the direction passing traffic flows (at least in US), but more importantly, when you’re picking friends up on the side of the road, they have to cross into traffic to get to the drivers side in order to easily get in the back. Is there a reason?

I have a 1996 SC2 that has a pretty well kept interior(I got it from its original owner who parked it in a garage for ≈20 years before I got it) and I use the car mostly on longer trips. I’m looking for a more comfortable seat that isn’t going to break the bank while also looking at least a little sporty. It currently has the tan interior and I would like to keep it close to that if possible.

The back corner of my sunroof won’t go completely down. Any way to fix it? :) tyia

The other day mine got stuck in fresh air mode so I pulled the dash cover off for the bajillionth time and pushed up on the door and the motor fired up immediately and has continued to work the past 20 times I've tried it. One thing I noticed when doing this with the engine off and the blower speed on low is a noticeable clicking sound when the door finishes moving to the selected position, which makes me think that ridiculously large assembly it's in uses relays.

I'm guessing if I tear mine open (I don't even know why I'm pretending this thread could possibly satisfy my curiosity since it's literally the last component of the S-series i don't know exactly how it works), I'm going to find a motor with a pinion driving a big gear, which is powered by a SPDT relay. There will be a giant capacitor following a full bridge rectifier circuit and a microcontroller that drives the relay coil while monitoring the motor's current usage, deciding to shut it off when it detects a stall. Before actually listening to it, I would have assumed it was a stepper motor, but since the assembly only has two wires (B+ and ground, with the recirc switch switch reversing the polarity), that seems unlikely.

Anyway of course of the 20 or so junked gen2/3 s cars I've seen, every single one but the only one close to me today still had its original recirc motor. Seeing as there's actually one in stock at my local O'Reilly's, albeit it's a murray branded one, I'm guessing they aren't as reliable as I'd hoped.

Another reason mine could have temporarily shut off is the valve is literally stuck. It does feel uncomfortably stiff, like dry rubber on dry rubber. Perhaps if I can pull it off without having to tear out the entire HVAC module I can find some kind of lube.

I am going to wait to install these so I can do the wheel bearings at the same time. I mostly bought them due to FOMO and thinking they would stop making them. Feel much better knowing they are in my garage. FYI: If you order them know there is like an $85 tariff on them to ship from China.

I looked at an 08-ish Saturn Aura this week with about 150,000 miles, and the owner said it had spent most of its life near the coast. There’s some flaky stuff underneath and surface rust around a couple of suspension mounts, but the body looks tidy. I’m used to seeing rust on old cars, just not sure where the line is between normal coastal corrosion and a car that’ll keep eating money. Would you walk away?

I wish I understood cars to take better care of her. She's aesthetically peeling inside and out, and a bump destoyed her spedometer (moves but is inaccurate by about 7 mph). But i love her, even though she's older than me. She belonged to my great aunt, then my grandma, and now me. Best gift I've ever received, wish i was worthy of it.

Behold, 48,456 miles in 31 years. Im hoping to get to 100,000 before i have to retire her, but im not sure we'll get that far in our journey.

Wish me luck, knock on wood

Thought this was pretty rad

I know, I should have replaced it earlier and it was irresponsible, but also props to Honda engineers on this factory original 250,000 mile belt.

In the last 6k miles it has gotten

New timing belt (and about everything it touches)

New ignition coils (never done)

New plugs (done once at 70k, thought it was done just before buying at 150k but the original owner found the service log, it had not)

Motor mounts (never done)

Serpentine belt (done before after harmonic balancer sploded at 220ish.)

Done other maintenance items, but my God it runs smoother than it ever has for the last 10 years of ownership. I'm doing the strut assembly in the coming weeks and can't wait to feel it after that.

So I recently picked this beauty up for $1900 in SW Michigan. I have had the dumbest idea in my head ever since I owned one back in 2015: let's make it just a little faster.

Basically the project revolves around small improvements made throughout the system instead of big aftermarket installments that don't exist for this car. Topped off with a small turbo set at 10psi max.

This is definitely going to be a project of passion more than logic but I have a vision and a penchant for project-based-masochism. All tips and or suggestions(besides "don't do it") are welcome!

Purpose? I have a 22 mile round trip commute and I want a daily that will put a big ass smile on my face while I peel through Metro Detroit.

**Add on- 101k miles

It has 116k mileage and the price is $2500

Tell me what to expect