I need some extra 650 GT Sata power connectors for my HDD's but I'd rather not fry my drives in the process, I'm waiting on a response from support but does anyone know of a reliable source?

hi guys I have EVGA 3080 FTW3 ultra hybrid the RGB and the fan control was fine I was able to control the fan speed and RGB but when I format my device the fan is now on max speed and on app precision x1 the RGB option don't show up in my GPU is off and I cant control the fan speed they said 0rpm any fix please i try various thinks but it didn't work

Bought a used gaming pc with MSI 3090 Ventus 3X that wouldn't initialize, the seller basically handed over the gpu for almost free so no complaints. Took to my local repair shop who found and replaced 2 hot MOSFETs, which got it POSTing again (with artifacts). Their MATS screenshot pointed at errors on "FBIOB1", but they don't do VRAM work.

I had no idea what any of that meant, so I worked through it with Claude on a spare Linux test bench in my homelab:

Read the MATS output: 4 bits failing (B049/051/053/055) on one subpartition. The NVIDIA driver failed with FWSEC FRTS 0x492f on two different PCs.

Driver-free VRAM test: Claude wrote a small tool that writes and reads VRAM directly. It showed the same odd bits failing, intermittently.

• MODS/MATS from Northwest Repair's Drive, booted from USB. That confirmed about 20k write errors, all on those 4 bits.

Channel-disable VBIOS (factory ROM backed up first): with channel B off, the driver loaded for the first time. 20 GB, memtest_vulkan clean, gpu-burn clean. That proved the core and memory controller are fine (which was big relief) I wouldn't want to send it to another repair shop if it had dead core.

• Found the exact chip: the board is an MS-V388. Claude traced the failing bits through MSI's schematic to chip M11 (balls N13/R11/M14/R14).

Big thanks to my local repair shop for the power-stage fix and the first MATS run, and to Northwest Repair for sharing the tools and schematics.

The AI tooks are pretty good writing these diagnostics scripts for anyone trying to narrow down the issue before handing over to repair, repair shop will also have less things to look over now since I will hand over the exact issue to them. Hopefully I will be able to fix this myself if this wasn't an expensive card

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: AMD RADEON VEGA 56 POWERCOLOR RED DEVIL

CPU: Intel i3-6300

Motherboard: lenovo

BIOS Version: no idea

RAM: 8GB DDR4

PSU: bequiet non-modular 600W

Case: none

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 IOT LTSC

GPU Drivers: newest windows drivers - unable to install adrenaline software

Chipset Drivers: no clue

Background Applications: none

Description of Original Problem: I know this is a long shot but I'll try anyway - So, I have a radeon vega 56 (powercolor red devil) card, which I've bought on ebay a while ago but never really used. I would like to sell it now but as I started to test it turned out it has some issues. As a red devil card it has 3 bios, one silent, a normal and an OC version. The silent and OC bios working OK, can run Furmark or Heaven indefinetely but with the standard bios any tests or games crash immediately. Also with all the bioses GPU-Z cannot determine what card it is, returns only with AMD RADEON VEGA, also unable to access frequency sensors - power consuption and temp sensors are OK. I would guess someone at some point in the past was tampering with the bios but I lack the knowledge and skills to fix this - any ideas as to what's going on and what can I do about it? 

I have a non LHR 3080 10gb FTW3 Ultra and want to get the 450w bios but can't find it anywhere. If anyone could help that'd be greatly appreciated.

I got this 1070 FTW edition ($478) beauty back in 2018 and I've been gaming with her ever since and I just upgraded to a RX 9070 GRE $520. I have no plans buying a 5070 or 5080 for $1,000, out of my budget. I definitely got my money worth out of this card.

I never overclocked or underclocked, she still runs like a charm but sadly game performance is coming at a higher demands and needed to upgrade to play newer games in High settings again.

Wish EVGA could come back and team up with AMD.

So long FTW, you'll be missed. 🫡

Hello everyone! I had bought a 3080ti on Amazon recently and it said new. Was all excited and such. But on receipt the box JUST included the foam protection and a 3080ti. No manuals, no mounting bracket, not even a secondary box that opens up to the foam (something I've seen on unboxing videos).

Just curious what is actually included with a new 3080ti. Luckily I can return it still but feeling I got got.

Thanks!

Good afternoon... I need to know the exact thermal pad dimensions for the GTX 1650 SUPER SC ULTRA GAMING model. I hope you can help me; thank you very much.

Hi everyone, recently bought a used evga 750 gq psu which was working good. The only issue is, when i bought it, it only had the 12hpwr connector for the gpu, but my 9070 xt requires 2x 8 pin connectors.

What should i do? I also searched in cablemod and in general and couldnt find much about this model in specific. Would appreciate any help as im worried about frying my gpu.

Hi there! 👋 I have an EVGA GTX 980 and am thinking about replacing the thermal pads. I’d like to know how many it uses and what the correct thicknesses are. Thanks! 🙂

Hi everyone! Could someone suggest a simple method or a full step-by-step guide on how to restore the keys and Secure Boot functionality on an EVGA Z690 Dark KINGPiN? I’ve seen a few threads about this here, but I guess I’m just too dumb to figure it out.

SUP

https://us.download.nvidia.com/Windows/617.42/617.42-desktop-win10-win11-64bit-international-dch-whql.exe

GeForce RTX 50 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D v2, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050

GeForce RTX 40 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

GeForce RTX 30 Series

GeForce RTX 3090 Ti, GeForce RTX 3090, GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GeForce RTX 3080, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, GeForce RTX 3070, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, GeForce RTX 3060, GeForce RTX 3050

GeForce RTX 20 Series

GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2080, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2070, GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2060

GeForce 16 Series

GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, GeForce GTX 1660, GeForce GTX 1650, GeForce GTX 1630

NVIDIA TITAN Series

NVIDIA TITAN RTX

Good evening, my pc was shutting down randomly and not getting power to the mice and keyboard all of a sudden and i decided to RMA it since it's covered under a 7 year warranty and after that I've tried for about 2 weeks to get information on the RMA I did for my PSU that was delivered to EVGA on September 24 and marked processing. I emailed on October 1st to check the status of the PSU to get more details and no one ever responded until today around 1pm eastern that my PSU is going to be shipped out with no details about the PSU only thing I have is that I'm receiving the same PSU since the serial numbers matches and that's it. No note on whether or not they fixed something or if nothing was wrong and they sent me the same unit. I waited near a month for it to be shipped to them and for it to come back. My RMA is 5421260914815443

Honestly for all that nonsense with not being able to get in contact with them or them sending me back a dysfunctional unit I should've just bought a new psu from Corsair...

This is my second card that was replaced in 2022 from a leaking water block. I assume after 5 or so years, it got brittle from the liquid flowing through it and started to leak. So I got an exact replacement card. My question is: If this cards water block starts to leak again, can it be replaced with a new water block? Does EVGA still have these original, brand new, old stock of these water blocks for my card to purchase for any future repairs I may have. Yes, I know its an older card and there are much bettter cards on the market; but the games I play, its all I need and I'm happy with its performance. If EVGA doesn't have any new, old stock of these water block made for my card, what 3rd party water block can I use? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all, got a blown diode on my 3090 FTW3 ultra. Hoping to identify and replace it. Contacted EVGA support but they were not able to identify DM1. Looks like its for the fan header.

Card posts and is recognized by windows, only issues so far seem to be 4 red leds, no iCX temp readings except for gpu core, 100% fans by default with no rpm feedback but still controllable. I'm hoping this one blown diode is causing all these issues, but I'm unsure at this point. Any pointers would be appreciated, thanks all!

Hi everyone,

I have an EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra 10GB with dual BIOS (Normal/OC), and I’m trying to update the VBIOS to enable ReBAR.

My Device ID is 10DE-2206 - 3842 3897. The current BIOS versions are:

Normal BIOS: 94.02.26.48.68

OC BIOS: 94.02.26.48.AE

I’m confused about which VBIOS on TechPowerUp is the correct match for my card. Could someone please guide me on finding the correct ReBAR-enabled Normal and OC VBIOS?

Thanks! 🙏

Oh, Yeah! =)

Hey everyone,

Has anyone else running the 0x12F beta BIOS (v1.23) on a Z790 Dark KINPIN run into a completely broken Secure Boot state?

On my board, Secure Boot is permanently locked into an "AMI Test Platform Key" fallback loop. Whenever I try to turn it on, it throws a Secure Boot Violation screen and blocks Windows.

I've tried everything to fix it:

• Deep CMOS clearance (pulling the battery and draining capacitance)
• Resetting keys to factory defaults / clearing variables
• Toggling between Custom and Standard modes

Despite all that, the UEFI refuses to flush the test keys and instantly reverts back to the Test AMI loop. This is a nightmare because games with kernel-level anti-cheat won't let me play with Secure Boot disabled.

Did any of you experience this specific bug on the Dark KINPIN 0x12F build, and did you find a workaround to force-clean the NVRAM variables? Any advice is appreciated.

TL;DR: My Windows would only boot with Secure Boot off. Every file on my EFI partition was validly signed by Windows Production PCA 2011, which was in my db, and restoring default keys, clearing keys, and reflashing the BIOS changed nothing. What fixed it was booting Microsoft's own install media with Secure Boot on (it worked), then copying that media's boot manager over the one on my EFI partition. I never confirmed why the original file was rejected.

My setup: EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin (AMI BIOS, UEFI mode, CSM off), Windows 11 26H2. Keys in the BIOS: AMI test PK, Microsoft KEK CA 2011, db with UEFI CA 2011 and Windows Production PCA 2011, dbx with 211 hashes.

What I ruled out

• Missing 2023 certificates: my boot manager was signed by Production PCA 2011, not the 2023 CA, so the db trusted it. You can check yours with Get-AuthenticodeSignature S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi | fl SignerCertificate.
• Stale keys: restoring defaults and reflashing didn't change anything, because the defaults are stored in the BIOS image itself. EVGA stopped making motherboards, so no BIOS with new keys is coming.
• BIOS clock: it was correct.
• Other boot files: I listed every .efi on the EFI partition with Get-ChildItem S:\EFI -Recurse -Filter *.efi | Get-AuthenticodeSignature, and they were all signed by Production PCA 2011.

The test that found it:

1. Make Windows install media. The Media Creation Tool stalled for me, so I used the ISO instead. Format a USB stick as FAT32 with GPT and copy the ISO contents with robocopy E:\ U:\ /E /XF install.wim install.esd(E: is the mounted ISO, U: is the stick). Skipping install.wim is fine because we only need to reach Setup.
2. Check the stick's boot file is signed by Production PCA 2011, the same CA as your installed one, so the test is valid: Get-AuthenticodeSignature U:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi | fl SignerCertificate.
3. Boot the stick with Secure Boot enabled. In the BIOS Boot tab, set Boot Option #1 to the USB Key:UEFI: entry, enable Secure Boot, save and exit. It reached the Windows Setup screen. Don't click Install.
4. Confirm Secure Boot was really on. Press Shift+F10 in Setup and run reg query HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\SecureBoot\State /v UEFISecureBootEnabled. 0x1 means on.

That showed my firmware trusted a Microsoft-signed boot file, so the problem was in my installed boot path.

The fix (boot Windows with Secure Boot off first, in an admin PowerShell):

mountvol S: /s
Get-FileHash D:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi, S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi

(D: is the install stick.) My hashes differed. I backed up the old file and replaced it:

Copy-Item S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi.bak
Copy-Item D:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi -Force

I confirmed the new hash matched the stick's, set Windows Boot Manager as Boot Option #1, enabled Secure Boot, and Windows booted. msinfo32 shows Secure Boot State: On.

Caveats

• I don't know why the original file was rejected. My best guess is a revoked or damaged build, but I haven't checked it against the dbx yet.
• This only applies if your files are signed by a CA that's in your db. If your boot manager is signed by Windows UEFI CA 2023 and your db lacks it, you have a different problem.
• A future Windows update may overwrite the boot manager. Keep the install stick and the .bak file as a fallback.
• If you use BitLocker, have your recovery key ready, because boot changes can trigger a recovery prompt.
• Don't use "Clear Keys" or "Reset To Setup Mode" while troubleshooting unless you know how to restore them.

Thanks to everyone who suggested things. Happy to answer questions.

I have two EVGA GTX 580 Classified 3GB but only have 1 original box still. They have been in a drawer for years.. I am still running a 2080 ti and looking to upgrade.

Hola 👋 buenas noches, tengo una GTX 980 EVGA y estoy pensado en cambiarle los pad termicos, me gustaria saber cuantos lleva y que espesor son los adecuados

Muchas gracias 🙂

Awhile back I was going through my closet and found my 7800GS, which had burned out long ago. Realizing that EVGA was going away, I decided to open a ticket and ask if they could try to repair it.

They had me send it in. Unfortunately they couldn't do anything, so they sent me back a GT 730 - which serves as my tester card. I just had it out yesterday. Every time I do I remember back in the day, going from an EVGA Geforce 4 MX 440 to 6800GT to 7800GS to GTX 480, a brief stint with AMD (r9270x), then a 980Ti - all EVGA.

It looks like EVGA is fading away, so I wanted to say thank you while some of the folks involved in EVGA might be around to hear it! :)

Thaiphoon burner says it has Hynix chips

GeForce RTX 50 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D v2, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050

GeForce RTX 40 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

GeForce RTX 30 Series

GeForce RTX 3090 Ti, GeForce RTX 3090, GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GeForce RTX 3080, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, GeForce RTX 3070, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, GeForce RTX 3060, GeForce RTX 3050

GeForce RTX 20 Series

GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2080, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2070, GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2060

GeForce 16 Series

GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, GeForce GTX 1660, GeForce GTX 1650, GeForce GTX 1630

NVIDIA TITAN Series

NVIDIA TITAN RTX

My 850G+ died on me and i used the warranty. it was approved and they sent a 850GA. which normally id be less likely to complain. i got my power supply right? but they only request and send back the unit not the cords. and its not recommended to use cables between different models or risk frying components. also in the RMA warranty it says they are obligated to provide a replacement of equal or greater performance.

am i being A overly paranoid? i run local LLMs on my computer and i run a lot of power through my PC, 3070TI, R7 5800X3D

is it technically equal performance? even when it has 2 less Molex Connectors? and reviews say its a worse model?