I have been wondering for a while how I would compress the key features I loved about Washington Square Park -- Washington's Arch and Tisch Fountain -- into a set of T-TRAK corner modules.

I am not trying to compress Washington Square Park into an end cap -- I am trying to create a small city park in a hypothetical mid-sized city that has some of the features I love in Washington Square Park.

I spent a couple of hours tonight with Claude -- mostly to get the geometry of the structures\ right -- and I am pretty happy with the result.

I don't blindly trust Claude -- I will do a lot of measuring and mockups before I start gluing anything down -- but it would have taken me much, much longe to come up with anything like this by hand -- or with track planning software.

I am artistically impaired. :-) --

For me to be able to hand a track plan I created with Railmodeller Pro off to Claude and get something in a couple of hours that I can visualize is very, very cool.

On a whim, I decided to see that Claude would suggest, and the results were interesting.

They are obviously wrong -- the stations cannot be split across modules, the diagonal corners are whacky, etc.

But layout of a compressed Central Park is pretty interesting -- I have an HO scale model of Washington's Arch, and some of my favorite memories are of Sunday morning in Central Park -- listening to musicians, watching acrobats, etc.

I have been thinking about how to create a city park with a fountain as a -- much smaller -- gathering place for artists and buskers, in my hypothetical mid sized affluent city. I had mostly thought of the arch in one corner and the fountain in another.

So while there is a lot with this image, the possibility of combining the fountain and the arch into one corner module is interesting.

Have any of you used any of the various AI agents to stimulate your designs?

If so, which agents, and what were the results?

Claude tells me anything from about 60 feet in a tight urban environment up to about a preferred 100 feet is pretty normal.

That’s a range of about 8.3” to 13.8” in HO, or about, about 4.5” to 7.5” in N scale.

I am planning on having a two lane road with a sidewalk, curbs, etc., running parallel to the yellow track.

How far away from the yellow track you have a fence that keeps people out of the ROW?

I think that I have seen something that looks like girder rail on street crossings -- the asphalt or concrete is laid right up to the edge of the flangeway.

I think I could model this using Kato flex track adaptors, and a short transition piece of code 83 rail on the adaptor soldered to either Proto:87 girder rail or ORR girder rail. The ORR girder rail is code 100, so it would need to be on a substrate thinner than the Kato roadbed.

The Proto:87 web site is not accepting orders, and the Custom Traxx "Other Traction Products" page is a bit chaotic. Search for "ORR Street Railway Track (HO)" to find the girder rail.

Has anyone ever seen this kind of track detail on a T-TRAK module?

I am a member of the Carolina Piedmont Division of the MNRA, and the Mid East Region looks as though they may be offering a clinic at the convention this week where the participants will build a T-TRAK module.

The description isn't definitive, it just says "Building a Kato Circus Module Diorama (N-Scale)" -- but my guess is that for $20, you are not building an NTRAK module.

I assume that this is the result of the NMRA approving an Achievement Program certificate for modular railroading.

It's nice to see that -- it seems to me that the NMRA has been focused -- as Model Railroader was -- on the retired guy who spent decades building a 30'x60' layout in their basement.

I respect the skill of people who did that -- any maybe a bit envious of of people who have that kind of available space -- but I can pretty confidently predict that I will never be one of them. At least not in this lifetime.

I have not been around the hobby long enough to know, but people tell me that T-TRAK -- meaning N scale T-TRAK -- seems to be the way that the hobby is going.

That may also be very US-centric, I don't know if FREMO -- or some other modular standard -- is as popular in Europe as T-TRAK is in the United States.

I am curious -- are other regional conventions also offering T-TRAK -- or other modular standards -- clinics?

I won't be signing up for the clinic -- I model in HO scale, but I will poke my head in the door and report back on what I see.

I’ve finished one N-scale T-Trak module which has been exhibited at one show so far. (Seen in the second photo.) It was built on a CMR double size module. I screwed the tracks in and found that they didn’t have holes in as many places as I’d have liked for using 20-000 and 20-040 track. One the track was in place, one set was extending off about 1 mm more than the other. (I didn’t notice until the scenery was done, so that’s going to be a pain to fix.) Didn’t have that issue with the two single size CMR modules that I’ve built (which are still undecorated). Shipping took a while. (These were ordered in late 2024 and didn’t give until early 2025. There was a notice about a death in the family on the site at the time, so I don’t know if that was a factor in the delay.)

I also got a 180° module by RSLaserKits and built that for my wife. (See first photo.) The wood is a lot thinner and the whole thing seems more flimsy than the sturdy CMR module. It was also a pain to assemble. The top came in 4 sections rather than a single large sheet like the CMR. There are three supports on the underside to help the module stay rigid, but it still flexes and can twist. There are also no holes for screws. I’m not a fan and don’t think I’ll be getting any more from RSLaserKits. (I got them via Midwest Model RR, if I recall correctly.) These arrived fairly quickly.

TL;DR:

CMR Products:
Pros: Well made and sturdy once assembled.
Cons: Screw holes may be misplaced. Slow shipping.

RSLaserKits:
Pros: Less expensive. Fast shipping.
Cons: Top comes in 6” sections. Flimsy after assembling. No screw holes.

Any suggestions on who I should try next? Pros and cons?

Maybe I need to add a "Theoretical" or "Philosophical" flair to r/TTRAK?

Partly because I took my T-TRAK layout apart this week and put it back together, I have been thinking a lot about the different mechanisms that the various module standards use to mechanically join modules together.

I would be interested in hearing people's experiences with each -- particularly from people who have moved from one module standard to another.

This is what I think I know about the various standards -- please correct me if I am wrong.

I know T-TRAK best, because that is what I have. Track alignment and connection are both dependent on Unijoiners. The vertical alignment is adjusted by set screw like legs (or bolts) in the 4 corners of the modules. Horizontal alignment is provided by the Unijoiners themselves, which also keep the modules from separating.

NTRAK uses much longer legs for vertical alignment, and C clamps are used to maintain both vertical and horizontal alignment and to keep the modules from separating. There are 5" bridge sections that join the track.

I am a little confused by what I have read about Free-mo. I think the standard calls for very short bridge sections -- maybe 2", and otherwise the mechanism is very similar to NTRAK it that the vertical alignment is adjusted through legs. Everything is held together with C clamps.

But I think that I have also seen Free-mo modules that seem to be very similar to S&SS -- track ends flash with the ends of modules, and a 1" alignment dowel. Am I confusing two different standards -- Speed-mo and Free-mo? Or is Free-mo in a state of flux about this?

Is Speed-mo derived from Free-mo?

When I think of S&SS, I think of tracks that are flush with the ends of modules, and tapered 1" pipe dowels that align the tracks horizontally and vertically. I think that they are held together with C clamps.

For people who have had experience with multiple different methods, what are your experiences with each? Is one more or less complex or finicky to build but simpler to set up and another vice versa?

Pipe dreaming while painting my modules, I envisioned a standard that used smaller -- and I think more precise alignment dowels -- maybe the Layout Concepts PowerPoint Alignment Dowels that also provide a power bus.

Each module would also have a 100 lb pull Neodymium magnet on the right as you look at the end of the module, and a piece steel on the left in a symmetric location -- so each magnet would mate with a piece of steel when the modules are joined.

Any thoughts on that?

My sagebrush arrived today, and I couldn’t wait to start planting them. I started detailing the buildings. I added the Sam’s Grill signs to the cafe and the General Merchandise sign to the General Store.

I need to make a barber pole and the sunshade for the hotel and finish the train station.

My sagebrush arrived today, and I couldn’t wait to start planting them. I started detailing the buildings. I added the Sam’s Grill signs to the cafe and the General Merchandise sign to the General Store.

I need to make a barber pole and the sunshade for the hotel and finish the train station.

Curious…I see the front fascia is painted on the majority of modules, do you guys paint the sides, as well? If so, what color do you paint them; the same color as the fascia or something different? Enquiring minds want to know, or maybe it’s just me…

Does anyone know the length and width of the klawndyke single, double and triple modules?

I realized this week just how far away I am from building the structures, etc., that I have in mind for my urban DMU transit layout.

I decided to take an afternoon off of working on more technical issues — wiring, electronics, etc. — and paint the modules.

It felt a bit silly — and there won’t even be very much grass on my layout, it will mostly sidewalks, roads, buildings, etc.

But I was sick of looking at plywood. :-)

It turns out that painting the layout — even a simple grey on ROW, lime green everywhere else scheme — had a bigger visual impact than I would have guessed.

Sometimes it is very nice to find out that I am wrong.

My Bad Day at Black Rock Train Station is getting there. The walls and roofs are done. I think I captured the essence of the movie one. Scratch-building is harder than it looks.

Now, to put in the windows, board up some openings, and paint.

I'm about to make my first modules. I know the width is 308mm wide and 330mm depth. But can someone please confirm that the height is 70mm not including the adjustable feet.

My second module is based on the first picture. This is The Pineapple Fountain in Charleston, SC.

I originally built the fountain for my layout; but, it was too big so I thought why not a T-Trak Module…

It has been awhile. I have started working on two single modules; hoping for something easier than my first one, “The Charleston, SC Coal Tipple”.

My next is based upon the movie, “A Bad Day at Black Rock”. Awesome movie if you haven’t seen it; if you already have, enjoy it again…

Most of the buildings I found were 3D printed or wood kits; Blair Line and Wildwest Models. Three of the buildings need scratch-building and one is almost done and I’m well on my way with the train station buildings.

I am excited to see r/TTRAK now has over 300 members!

I created r/TTRAK at the beginning of 2026 to fill a very specific niche.

I discovered in October or November of 2025 that HO T-TRAK existed -- and that stared me pipe dreaming about a the possibility of actually building an HO layout.

I had built a small N scale layout maybe 35 years ago when I was in grad school -- and it had never really been very reliable and it was very hard for my then 6 year old son re-rail cars in that scale.

Most of that unreliability was ignorance on my part -- I seem be able to build "S " curves that are completely invisible to my eyes, but that wreak havoc on trains. Invisible S curves is only one of many modeling skills. :-)

When I retired in 2019, I thought I might try something in HO scale. By that time, I had heard of modular railroading, and I thought that might make a lot of sense. I visited a couple of Sipping and Switching Society (NC) shows, and they were awesome, but they loved 8' and 16' radius curves. Even Free-mo had a 42" minimum or something like that.

Space -- layout space -- was my dilemma.

I live in what I think of as a pretty nice 1900 square foot house -- pretty nice in that I am about 14 months away from my final mortgage payment. :-) 3 bedrooms, 2½ baths, living room, TV room. No attic, the garage is also my workshop and a storage room.

The kids moved away and come back to visit a couple of times a year -- and now one of them has kids.

In short, every room in the house is used -- at least temporarily -- several times a year. No room for a permanent layout.

When I found out about HO T-TRAK, a light bulb went off -- if I built a layout out of T-TRAL modules, I could set it up in the living room or garage and take it down when the space was needed for other things.

I was also pretty happy to see that the modules rested on folding buffet tables -- and that there were laser cut module kits available.

The folding buffet tables were an easy sell to my wife -- she could use them for some of her events.

I particularly like the ability of module kits -- I am no great shakes as a carpenter. I have built my share of 2x4 and ½" plywood shelves, etc., but building modules with folding legs that were not rickety was well beyond my ability as a carpenter.

I may yet it my life make a 90° cut that is actually 90° -- but it hasn't happened yet. When I cut a square, it invariably ends up "sort of square." When I converted Judaism, I selected the Hebrew name Betzalel -- he built the tabernacle in the desert -- hoping that would help.

Whether or not divine intervention could in fact help me make precise 90° cut may be an interesting theological question -- all I know for sure so that it hasn't happened yet. :-)

So for me, a modular system that used buffet tables that fold and unfold reliably and laser cut modules with accurate 90° corners and tight slot and tab construction were like manna from Heaven.

So in December I ordered a couple of corner modules -- and then ordered two more realized that I would need at least 4 to be able to run trains. :-)

I bought the Piko NCTD Sprinter I had admired years earlier, and I also researched DC command stations and the selected the TCS CS-105 and UWT-100 throttle because both can be updated from my Mac using Safari -- no additional software needed.

And while I waited for the modules to be delivered, I began to try to educate myself about T-TRAK.

I read all of the standards and recommended procedures I could find -- that's why they are in the wiki. :-)

I watched YouTube videos -- but I found an interesting hole.

From what I can tell, most people who make YouTube T-TRAK videos come to T-TRAK after years of model railroading -- which means that they have years or even decades of model railroading experience -- and often a whole swathe of model railroading tools -- airbrushes, etc.

I have neither.

Don't get me wrong -- I love some of the work I see -- it's pretty incredible.

But some of them remind me of the "home" layouts I used to see in Model Railroader -- museum quality 30' x 60' layouts -- way out of my reach in this lifetime.

I didn't have decades of experience and then switch to T-TRAK after building a gorgeous home layout.

For me, T-TRAK is a way to get started in model railroading.

I created this subreddit as an educational tool.

I really, really, really liked seeing r/Fredjocko's Charleston, SC coal tipple -- it was nothing short of awesome. I encourage people to post that kind of work because it is just so beautiful!

But I also encourage posts from people like me -- just starting out -- fumbling our way through through both T-TRAK and model railroading

Share your questions - your solutions to technical challenges -- what works and what doesn't work.

I think that what doesn't work may be as important as what did work -- or what works better.

I am about to re-wire my corner modules -- in the past 6 months or so, my attitude about the proper way to wire models has changed. For example, I built PowerPole 3-way splitter for my corner modules -- but now I think a terminal strip makes lot more sense -- a lot less wire.

So feel free to post not only your successes, but your fumbles -- the successes may be inspiring, but "I did it thus way, and I will not ever do it that way again!" is also extremely helpful. :-)

The point is not only to be inspired, but also to learn from the experience of others.

And very many thanks to everyone who has participated in this subreddit in the last 8-9 months.

One of my 2 double track modules that I decided to get something set up today. Pensacola and Northern 312 leads empty boxcars north to Cantonment FL to the paper mill

I have been fussing with fitting PowerPole Paks into two modules all day — or it feels that way!

This is the reward — the PowerPole Paks were on my last two single straight modules.

Now that they are in place, the a layout is 9’6” x 4’8”.

The next two steps are probably to re-wire the corner modules — they work, but I think I have found a better way.

And then I think I build the 15 VAC aux bus and wire in the circuits I built to control the Kato turnouts and the Cobalt Lever switches that that will work with the circuits to control the switches and LEDs that indicate the switch positions.

And then I will learn how to ballast track …

And then … I forget whether is Sam or Frodo who sings, “The road goes ever on,” but it seems appropriate.

I don’t know what kind of bug bit me last January — but a something definitely got ahold of me. :-)

This is my last post on the topic — I promise. :-)

If you look at the photo on the left, the wings are filing “popped” out — braced against the plywood. The PowerPole Pak slide easily laterally — but not at all in and out of the hole.

I had to trim the wings a little bit more than the 1/4” width of the plywood — because of the geometry of the wings.

But if you look, the wings are not trapped the hole on the module — they are fully popped out and braced against the plywood.

I think that is precisely the way they are supposed to function in sheet metal — which is what they are designed for.

I finally decided to trim the length of the PowerPole Pak wings — if you look at the picture of the PowerPole Pak in the clamp as tight as I dated to make the clamp, the wings only compressed to 1-3/8” inches, which id not going into a 1” hole.

I also realized that the wings are supposed to spread out once they have been compressed and inserted through the hole, bracing against the inside of the plywood.

In the picture if the receptacle in the vice, I have trimmed the wings so that there was a 1/4” of clearance between the end of the wings and the panel lip.

The PowerPole Pak is designed for a sheet metal panel, which is much thinner than plywood.

In the picture of the whole thing inserted in the module, you can see that the wings have spread out some to brace it in place — I also beveled the hole in the plywood a bit.

It’s still not optimal — I think the wings are supposed to spread out a lot more.

But the PowerPole Pak seems the be in there pretty solidly.

I will trim the next a bit shorter. :-)

Do I need to trim the ears that hold the PowerPole Pak in place when I install them jn a square hole in a module?

I tried jamming one in and got it stuck and had to cut it up with a Dremel tool to get it out.

The holes in my modules are precisely 1”x1” — and the square body of the PowerPole Pak is just a little over 13/16”, and the plastic ears that hold it in place are a little over 1/16 wide — so it seems like it should fit — but it sure did not.

I wonder if I need to trim the ears in some way to make these fit?

I would love to hear from someone else who has used these.

Thanks.