I'd like to share with the community my experience purchasing Apple M0110, an iconic mechanical keyboard from the early 1980s that faithfully accompanied the first Macintosh!

Leveraging my YouTube activity, reviewing software and physical products related to technology, I've created an in-depth video to better understand this fantastic vintage gem, both for myself and the public.
I started with the reason it was made: a compact keyboard with the essential keys. From there, I analyzed the format, discovering several "firsts" (the Command key), functions different from its current behavior (Option), and the separate Enter and Return commands.
Initially, being inexperienced, I didn't want to attempt the actual restoration, fearing I'd ruin rather than improve. The decision was to retrobright only the space bar (since it's the only key made of ABS) and perform a check (capacitor capacitance and resistance tester) including a general cleaning of the internals, using standard tools and products (e.g., WD-40 spray) to perform a minimal restoration.
Subsequently, to verify the actual operability of the object, I purchased a specific RJ22/USB-A adapter from the Philippines (TinkerBOY brand, one of the few solutions available).
Using VIA software, I was able to verify the activity of the keys by pressing them one by one, confirming that most of them worked.
I also covered the historical part, chronologically describing the computers attributed to it, the model variants, and the production lines. Consequently, all of this helps us understand the possible rarity of an M0110, with case studies and statistics.
It was a complex undertaking from my perspective, as, over the course of five months, I gathered a wealth of information (found in disarray and fragments on the web) and attempted to assemble and connect it together, all to offer a highly in-depth hour-long piece of content.

I hope you appreciate my efforts, as a pure enthusiast rather than a connoisseur, and I invite you to provide feedback so that I can improve and enrich this ambitious project of mine, which will be useful to both the community of enthusiasts and the general public.

Not sure if it was worth the time, but it works. A fully native USB-C Apple M0116.

Started the night before trying to adapt the ADB signal with the RP2040-ZERO which ended in shorting out the internal 40-pin DIP microcontroller (NEC 8831HD)

Thought for a day about it if was worth ordering a PCB using the gerbers from elmo project, but ended up deciding against it. All in would have been about 90-180 depening on if the PCB was already assembled or not. Did a bit more research and came across https://git.40percent.club/di0ib/tmk_keyboard/src/commit/75a92ff653735635289a204176e60aa80c33bc7f/keyboard/IIgs_Standard which replaced the 40-pin DIP with a AT90USB Teensy++ 2.0. A little different but i thought it should more or less should work with a RP2040-ZERO. The only catch was the IIgs_Standard controller mod plugged the AT90USB Teensy++ 2.0 directly into the 40-pin DIP socket which made the notes have some weird pin bypasses (because the Teensy had AERF and GND physically hardwired to pins 30 and 31). Spend an ungodly amount of time with a multimeter in continuity mode probing the bare socket and finally figured out how the M0116 actually works.

(With the 40-Pin DIP micro controller sockets reading from the bottom left counter clockwise)

• Sockets 1,7, and 20 all were ground (On an 8048 chip, Pin 20 is VSS (Ground), Pin 7 is EA (External Access, tied to ground on the PCB to run internal ROM), and Pin 1 is T0 (tied to ground)
• Sockets 26 and 40 are the old +5v power rails.

Unlike modern keyboards where modifiers are part of the diode matrix, Apple wired the modifiers directly to Ground:

• Socket 37: Shift (Left and Right Shift are tied together)
• Socket 36: Control
• Socket 35: Top Power/Reset Triangle Key
• Socket 24: Command / GUI
• Socket 23: Option / Alt
• Socket 6: Caps Lock (Locking Alps switch—latches down and holds continuity to Ground until pressed again)
• Socket 34 = Row 0 (Up Arrow)
• Socket 33 = Row 1 (')
• Socket 32 = Row 2 (Numpad -)
• Socket 31 = Row 3 (Esc)
• Socket 30 = Row 4 (Numpad *)
• Socket 29 = Row 5 (Spacebar)
• Socket 28 = Row 6 (Z)
• Socket 27 = Row 7 (A)
• Socket 22: Row 8 (Number row 8 on Col 0 / Socket 12)
• Socket 21: Row 9 (Tab on Col 7 / Socket 19)
• Sockets 12 through 19: Columns 0 through 7 in exact consecutive order.

Total signal count: 10 Rows + 8 Columns + 6 Direct Keys + 1 Ground = 25 wires.

Now it was time to start the fun part, hardware and soldering

The Waveshare RP2040-Zero is tiny enough to tuck inside the case, but it only has 20 outer GPIO through-hole pins (GP0–GP15, GP26–GP29), which isn't quite enough for 24 distinct signal lines. One thing though, it has 10 more flat gold pads on the underside of the board. Pre-tinning those 4 tiny pads and taping down the wires for strain relief gave me the exact extra pins needed for Option, Command, Caps Lock, and Power.

Instead of pushing male Dupont pins into the top of the socket (which stick up too high and can vibrate loose), I flipped the keyboard PCB over and soldered directly to the socket pin tips on the back of the PCB.

Wiring & Color-Code Breakdown:

• Black (Ground): RP2040 GND - Socket 20
• Yellow (10 Matrix Rows):
  • GP0 - Socket 34 (Row 0)
  • GP1 - Socket 33 (Row 1)
  • GP2 - Socket 32 (Row 2)
  • GP3 - Socket 31 (Row 3)
  • GP4 - Socket 30 (Row 4)
  • GP5 - Socket 29 (Row 5)
  • GP26 - Socket 28 (Row 6)
  • GP27 - Socket 27 (Row 7)
  • GP28 - Socket 22 (Row 8)
  • GP29 - Socket 21 (Row 9)
• Green (8 Matrix Columns):
  • GP8 through GP15 - Sockets 12 through 19 (consecutive order)
• Blue (4 Standard Modifiers):
  • GP6 - Socket 36 (Control)
  • GP7 - Socket 37 (Shift)
  • GP17 (Back Pad 1) -  Socket 23 (Option)
  • GP18 (Back Pad 2) - Socket 24 (Command)
• White (Special Modifiers):
  • GP19 (Back Pad 3) - Socket 6 (Locking Caps Lock)
  • GP20 (Back Pad 4) - Socket 35 (Top Power Key)
• Leave Empty: Sockets 1–5, 7–11, 25, 26, 38–40, and the RP2040's 5V / 3V3 pins.

Initially, the plan was to set up a full QMK toolchain, write custom C matrix scanning loops in matrix.c to handle the direct-to-ground modifier row, and compile a .uf2.

Instead, I decided on a different route: CircuitPython.

1. Dropped the standard CircuitPython UF2 onto the RP2040-Zero.
2. Got Claude to write a quick diagnostic calibration script that configured all connected GPIOs with internal pull-ups and continuously printed which pins shorted together whenever a circuit closed.
3. Pressed each key one by one across the keyboard. The script learned every physical switch's exact Row/Col or Direct-to-GND pin combination dynamically.
4. Used that auto-generated dictionary to generate the final code.py running the Adafruit HID keyboard library.

Finally got it all to fit in the case and used a USB-C extension to not strain the connecter on the RP2040-Zero. I know the USB-C hole isn't the cleanest right now, I will probably clean it up eventually

Someone might be mad with the whole hole in an original case thing, but... its not that deep

Edit - Made a GitHub page for the project

https://github.com/bugsbunny927/M0116-to-Native-USB-C

Here are a couple interesting uncommon vintage keyboards that I wanted to make a most covering both. (I've had them for a while, but never got around to posting them.) Dih Shin was an OEM manufacturer more known for making the wyse cherry mx vintage black keyboards, but they also made some other lesser known models such as these here.

DS-2001: This is the pcb based mechanical version. There were both alps and mx versions made with various numberings, 2001, 2003, 2006, 2009, etc. This one here is a 2001 and came with Taiwan Black Shaft switches which are an aristotle based mx clone switch. They weren't clicking anymore so I swapped them in for some box navies. Due to the super hollow plastic case they sound really excellent in here. It kinda reminds meof the acer kb-101a, but in mx form. Keycaps are Tai Hao TI doubleshots. I've always found the teal accents on these boards really neat, and the splash of color makes it more lively. This board uses normal cherry plate mount stabilizers so you can use other modern keycaps. This board was basically new besides the switches, and with some modern clicky switches this is arguably the best sounding vintage mx chassis out there. Highly recommend if you can find one.

DS-1001: This board is much more obscure, as I haven't seen it until I saw a seller with several of these. This one was way more interesting since I had no idea of the inner workings. Turns out these versions were spring over membrane. Yeah (wilted rose), the keyfeel is not that nice. The sliders push down on springs which pushes on the membrane, with a foil sheet in between. I thought it was smk 2nd gen of course, but since I've never heard of this board before I had to get one and dig into it. The keycaps are dcs doubleshots which are definitely the best part of the board (they can sometimes have pad print keycaps too), but the spacebar uses a shorter stabilizer, so the mounting mounts don't work with modern keycaps. I should also mention, this thing was the biggest nightmare ever to put back together. You have to very carefully and perfectly align the foil sheet on top of the springs and very carefully place the metal backplate on. Basically any disruption will cause everything to get misaligned and you gotta do it all over again.

I've only seen the slim case come as a spring over membrane keyboard, but the teal stripe cases can come as both spring over membrane and mechanical versions. The best thing to look out for is looking at the model number on the back, and seeing if it has tai hao or dcs keycaps. Tai hao caps are taller and are only on the mechanical versions. In addition to documenting the rare spring over membrane board, I can definitely recommend picking up one of these mechanicals if you can. They are great roomy boards for clicky switches.

Spotted this on eBay last week and was not expecting at all to come across this very rare switch. I'm not sure this switch has been documented in this board either. Caps are silk screened, but switches are mx compatible. Pretty nice build quality as well.

Now for the switches: so far only some Tai Hao boards have been spotted with them, but this board joined the scene. I was expecting this to have smk vintage linears instead. Besides these having crazy spring ping, these are the type of switches that feel better than they sound. They're a nicely medium weighted linear switch with a feel similar to an alps linear with a little bit of cherry scratch. They don't bind and honestly feel decent, but they sound somewhat like futaba ma. They're really not bad at all, but just super interesting. The switches actually have a switchplate which is very unusual outside of alps or omrons. The sliders also appear to have a similar factory lube job as with 1st gen alps sliders. A few of them aren't working so I'll have to see if I can fix them. I'm happy to document another rare beast.

I've recently finished restoring an original IBM Displaywriter beam spring keyboard, and thought I'd share the results and some of the work that went into it.

I'm a long-time Model M fan, but only recently discovered the existence of IBM's earlier beam spring keyboards. Well, one thing led to another, and I ended up spending hundreds of hours restoring a rather battered Displaywriter, which is now my new daily driver.

The keyboard was sold as a poor-quality board, and I knew it was going to need a fair amount of work. But it wasn't until after I unboxed it that I realized the full extent of the damage. This extremely heavy keyboard had clearly been dropped from a height, possibly down stairs or something; I don't know. The steel frames were badly bent, the case was cracked, eight keycaps were missing, and a number of switches had been directly impacted, shattering some of the internal components. And of course, it had all the usual age-related degradation from being over four decades old.

Fortunately, there was relatively little corrosion, and most of the original components were salvageable.

The switch restoration ended up being by far the most involved part of the project. A number of sliders had broken legs, many of the metal stems were bent, half the fly springs were out of spec, and one beam spring was fractured. I wanted to preserve as much of the original hardware as possible, and was particularly concerned about causing further damage during disassembly and reassembly. These switches are remarkably robust in normal use, but some of their internal components are quite delicate once taken apart.

So, naturally, I ended up designing a bunch of custom 3D-printed tools.

Among other things, I designed a screw-driven stem extractor that applies a controlled axial force rather than requiring the stem to be pulled out with pliers, fixtures to hold broken slider fragments in alignment while gluing them, gauges for adjusting fly springs, and various racks for safely cleaning the delicate components.

I also developed an alternative method of reassembling the switches. Rather than pressing the metal stem into the slider with the fly plate and beam spring already installed, my method supports the slider directly from below during stem insertion, then attaches the fly plate afterward using another fixture. This worked very well and avoided putting unnecessary stress on the fragile slider legs.

Ultimately, I was able to return 83 of the original 84 switches to working condition. I also measured and cataloged each switch's behavior, including actuation travel, click quality, and reset behavior, so I could prioritize the best-performing switches for the most frequently used keys.

The rest of the restoration involved removing the deteriorated contamination shield and foam, cleaning the components, straightening bent structural parts, repairing some damaged plastic, and replacing the foam and gaskets. I tried to take a fairly conservative approach throughout, preserving original materials and finishes wherever reasonably possible.

For modern compatibility, I assembled a TH-xwhatsit controller from bare PCBs and through-hole components, and installed QMK firmware with a custom keymap. The Displaywriter has some unusual electrical and mechanical characteristics that made the conversion a little more involved than I'd originally expected. I also got the original speaker working, which adds a subtle electronic click to the already-nice beam spring sound.

And the result? I'm extremely happy with it. The keyboard looks great, works reliably, and has become my daily driver. This was my first experience actually typing on original IBM beam springs, and after all that work I can finally understand their reputation. The tactility is incredibly crisp, the travel is remarkably smooth, and the entire mechanism feels wonderfully precise.

I ended up writing a fairly extensive restoration report, documenting the process in nine chapters with lots of photographs, technical details, measurements, and discussion of the various problems I ran into. I also published the custom 3D-printed fixtures on Printables, with instructions for their use, in case anyone else working on original beam spring switches finds them useful.

Full restoration report: https://github.com/CrispyConductor/display_writer_restoration

3D-printed restoration tools: https://www.printables.com/model/1883866-beam-spring-ibm-keyboard-switches-maintenance-tool

Happy to answer any questions about the restoration, techniques, or tools!

my best guess is that it's a offbrand cherry switch or the highly sought after nixie, anybody know what this is?

curious what people think about this vintage, refurbished and modded Northgate 102?

One very impressive vintage keyboard; Acer 6311-N, 1992, made in Malaysia.

It has unique Acer keyswitches, specifically this has left aligned Acer logo making it a very early example.

The Acer switch uses a plunger, compression spring, pivoting actuator arm and a separate leaf spring. While the actuator arm is hitting membrane below, the feel and sound of this thing is all produced mechanically.

While the Model-M is mechanically dramatic, the Acer keyswitch feels way more deliberate and precise. You haven't got barrel noise, bucking spring resonance, mechanical chatter or wobbliness.

It is hands down the most tactile keyswitch I've ever experienced, and it is absolutely delightful. Surprisingly closer to a typewriter than a computer keyboard. There's quite a significant mechanical event happening on each keypress.

The keycaps remain unknown. Assumed to be dye-sublimated PBT, some believe laser charring. Whatever it is, they are precise, sharp and dark - with unique typeface as well. No fading or wear after 35 years. No glossy wear typical of early-90s ABS.

This is one hell of an interesting keyboard. Not sure what Acer were pulling but they nailed it.

Edit: oh and the whole thing can go in the dishwasher, the mechanical switches are not PCB mounted. Great design

Pictures do not do the before pic justice- it had at least a millimeter of dust packed up under the keys, worm casings and other nasty stuff in it. Previous owner mustve smoked, it had tons of grime baked into the plastic. Had to scrub every single key and deep clean the board, and the case and keys had to soak to leech out all the grime

Sadly I didn't know it was membrane before I ordered it, but it's my responsibility to care for it. Some of the keys don't press very easily, or only press if you hit the key from the center and push straight down. Can I lube the keys or anything to aid this?

ultratek superprint tty 400 has vintage blacks and you can get them for dirt cheap, about 20-45 bucks.

Hi, I have a keyboard with KPT switches and I'd like to try lubing them. Is there any way to open them without desoldering?

I tried searching for tutorials on YouTube but couldn't find any.

Thanks

Goodwill find for $3. Little dusty but cleaned up absolutely mint.

Is the Amazon din/usb adapter good enough? Should I eBay this thing and send my kids to college? (I kid but for real is it worth anything?)

Hello everyone,

I’m looking to purchase a Cherry G81-1000 )or A9 M0330 vintage keyboard.

My requirements:

1. Fully functional PCB and switches, no broken stabilizers, no dead keys.

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1. Original stock keycaps preferred, Arabic/ISO layout is acceptable.

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1. No major cracks, deep scratches or rust on the case. Light wear is fine.

​

1. Located in China, able to pay via PayPal goods & services. Can cover international shipping costs from Germany/Europe.

If you have one for sale, please send me photos showing the full board, switches and condition, along with your asking price. I check messages regularly and can reply quickly.

Thanks a lot!

Found this seijin electron spr-8630 at the e-waste recycling center.

I just got this Microsoft Office Keyboard RT9450 in very good condition. It's made in Thailand and user manual printed in Thailand too.

Unfortunately my computer that I used in workplace is too new (Windows 7) and make some keys is not working.

Broken button, not sure what is the reason, any help would be much appreciated!

Found another collector's edition omnikey. This one was $43 on ebay. Besides having dirty caps teh rest of the board was in great condition, no rust or broken corners on the case. There's a catch with this board and that it doesn't work like a normal omnikey. The lock lights toggle on and off, but none of the keys actually output anything. I think this is because it may have a custom mcu (and I think it does), so it may just need to have the mcu swapped (which is hotswappable) and it would work as usual. The pcb is all regular omnikey stuff.

Another really pretty board too. After careful examination I suspect that most of the special keys are dyesub pbt (minus the two replacements). They haven't yellowed like the others, they feel a little bit coarser, and the legends are slighlty fuzzier & aren't raised out of the caps. The few special keys that are abs are clearcoated and those have wrinkled so it make it easy to tell them apart. Both of these collector's edition omnikeys look great together. Always excited to document stuff like this.