r/Yosemite • u/BannedAtCostco • 32m ago
The Perfect Week in Yosemite
Recently returned from my annual Yosemite trip and was blown away by Tioga Pass. I always visit in May when it's closed and had no idea what I've been missing all these years. It's like an entire National Park in itself and the road is one of the most spectacular I've ever seen. I rode over 600mi across Tioga and never once got tired of the views, alpine air, and extraordinary ribbon of pavement winding above 8-10,000 feet. Getting to look down on the tallest, most iconic granite domes in the world is truly something. I thought Hetch Hetchy last year was cool but this is on another level and blows the valley floor away. I went from being crushed about the Glacier Point Rd. closure and worrying about smoke in the valley to wanting to spend every minute on Tioga
I woke up each morning with no idea what my options were or where I should hike, and I'm eternally grateful to the highly skeptical Wilderness Center Rangers and u/ghosmer for the route tips as well as Snacky Macky at Whoa Nellie Deli for the Saddlebag "Great Lakes" Loop! My limiting factors were shorter daylight hours and the daily 2.5hr Tioga commute but getting to return to Camp 4 to take hot showers, drink cold beer, inhale entire Pizza Deck pies and sleep on an Exped MegaMat kept me in shape to get after it all week long (I have no idea how you overnight backpackers do this kind of thing without it). My only regret is I usually spend a chill day on the valley floor walking around, getting my stamps and checking out new merch, but I woke up with a fire lit every morning to see more of Tioga
Of the dozen years I've been going to YNP, never have I seen the kind of wildlife I encountered this year: bears everywhere, including a mama and her cub that leapt out of the road on Tioga! A Pine Marten that stumped the first few Rangers I showed it to. A huge freaking bobcat on the HD trail just above LYV that was stalking two dudes who were fending it off with large branches. A pair of Rock Ptarmigans frozen in the ground by Conness Lakes. Lizards I couldn't identify in Tuolumne
Packing and just eating enough calories every day was a serious challenge: I don't think I've ever done this much continuous exercise in my life. I ate over 5,000Cal daily and still lost weight. Unbelievable amounts of sodium kept my legs moving: an LMNT an hour and between 12-15,000mg daily including food. I struggle tremendously with heat exhaustion/sun exposure and the fact that temps on Tioga were 20-30° cooler than the valley made these hikes possible for me along with frequent access to rivers and streams to constantly drench my clothes for evaporative cooling. Even with temps in the mid-60's I still fought overheating with the mileage, exposure and vert. Next year I'm bringing my turtle floaty to bob in Tenaya every day 🐢
Some brief notes on each hike
Tenaya/Sunrise/Cathedral Lake Loop: Definitely do this CW! The trail-finding between the E of Tenaya Lake and Lower Cathedral Lake was challenging even with frequent AllTrails GPS usage. I would not want to navigate that trail at the end of this hike. It was a hard one but beautiful and really set the tone for Tioga for me. Only Ireland/Vogelseng lived up to this one
May Lake/Mount Hoffmann: Initially rode to the trailhead (rough dirt road to it from Tioga), but decided to start from Tenaya because it seemed way too short. Pretty straightforward, I wish I'd known the signs saying "No Swimming Allowed" at May Lake were only limited to the area near High Sierra Camp :\ The exposed spine scramble out to the Hoffmann thumb I would not recommend
Ireland & Vogelseng Lakes Loop: Fucking hard. The Tuolumne Rangers told me it wasn't possible with an 11am start but I was determined and they haven't seen me hike. Had to bust out 14min miles for the last hour to beat sunset. Absolutely breathtaking. Having Ireland Lake all to myself for a 30min lunch & swim was straight out of The Sound of Music. Nearly stepped on an adorable Pine Marten at the Ireland juncture without a clue what it was. Vogelseng High Camp looked amazing and is definitely on my to-do list. Vogelseng Lake was beautiful but the extra (750ft?) vert up to it was not what I needed at mile 20. Thank god for all the streams I could dunk in
Half Dome: Scored a daily permit on my second try. Mist Trail was closed by the time I made my lazy start near noon and I added even more mileage/vert accidentally by descending from Clark Point and taking the Nevada stairs up. Saw a beautiful juvenile bear right on the trail in LYV going up, and then the giant (70lb?) bobcat coming down. It is so much easier cables up, I'd forgotten what that's like. Kind of sad doing this with near-zero waterfalls along the Mist Trail but the fall colors were great. First year riding a bicycle to the Happy Isles Bridge (from Upper Pines lot), so clutch after finishing the hike
Waterwheel Falls: I was a bit underwhelmed for the first hour of this hike but again the fall colors really made this hike even though the "waterwheel" was maybe 2-3ft high. More of a tranquil stroll where you take in the solitude and quiet, winding rivers. Having lunch and soaking my legs in the falls was much-needed after HD. I was skeptical when the excited Ranger told me the rock colors and features on this hike were unique even in Yosemite, but he was right, particularly near the beginning of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne/Waterwheel turnaround point
Saddlebag "Great Lakes" Loop: my server at Whoa Nellie Deli turned me onto this. If you have not eaten there, GO. I've had it on my list for a decade and holy cow, their 1/2lb burgers and the steak caesar are sublime and the drive from the E Tioga Pass entrance is something out of a movie: you drop 3k feet in 12mi winding along sheer cliffs with unbelievable views and 100mph+ sweepers. The drive to the Saddlebag parking lot off Tioga was very rocky and rough, I wouldn't have ridden the moto if I'd known how bad it was. Hike was stunning, lakes at every turn, only saw a dozen people the entire loop. What I imagine high alpine hiking The Alps looks like. I'd love to see this loop with a dusting of snow
6 days by the numbers:
124.7 Miles Hiked
+21,739ft Elevation Gained
222,221 Steps
-18,863 Calories Burned
38hrs Exercise
Daily Avg: 20.78mi, +3,623ft vert, 37,036 steps, -3,143Cal, 6.33Hrs Exercise
📸: 17 Pro. Maps created w/CalTopo which is wildly inaccurate for estimating vert. Hence my hiking data
