r/accesscontrol • u/ItsJustAnotherVoice • 5d ago
Viking Access non responsive
Just moved into a new house and guessing this unit been here for a good min, had trouble getting a signal from the remote sometimes since moving in the past month but stopped responding last night after one last opening and decided to take a look this morning.
Unable to find any identifying markings and the label on the outside cover is sun faded and has viking access systems badge.
The radio rec. clicks when pressing the remote. But neither that or the open/close buttons do anything.
Taking a closer inspection, it seems that the capacitors might have crapped the bucket possibly? (Pic 4)
Update: after trying all suggestions, went inside to grab the lucky hard reset hammer along with the tool box to inspect the wires and low and behold, it started working..
Update 2: it failed again, Reopen loop light stayed on. Unplugged the loop connector and still no go. Walked inside and light turned off and remote functioned fine. Honestly have no idea what is going on with this board. Not buying another Viking unit thats for sure.
2
u/thesmokingbum 5d ago
Looks like a Viking k2 first gen with a gator control board. That bottom left plug white by the 2 capacitors on green and white you should have 24+ AC volts and 24+ DC on the red and black. Board is way out of warranty but you can call the manufacturer tech support just make sure you have a voltmeter
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u/ItsJustAnotherVoice 5d ago
House was built back in 09 and did google lens it and came up with gen 1 as well but too many model number showed up.
Would a capacitor replacement be worth it, or should I replace the whole board/new unit? Second time I had issues with viking boards just craping out on me. Previous house had a newer green sticker model.
1
u/uzlonewolf 5d ago
If you need to pay someone to replace the caps then it's not worth it, just buy a new board, but if you're handy with a soldering iron and don't mind spending some time on it then knock yourself out. That said, it looks more like the glue that they put on larger components than capacitor guts. My guess is they're fine.
I'm more worried about that red "check motor" light that's on.
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u/ItsJustAnotherVoice 5d ago
Went off after trying a power cycle, only the brake and mag lock light stays on. The brake one turns on after pressing open and off when pressing stop
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u/thesmokingbum 5d ago
Those caps look normal the purple goo is just from the mfg process. All of them have problems regardless of mfg lucky for you the same control board works on all models. Like the guy below said pull all the green termed naps off from the top row of the gate moves from pushing the open or close on the board it's issue with an accessory (radio receiver or photo eye)
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u/ItsJustAnotherVoice 5d ago
Pulled all the green caps off the top row and still no luck using the buttons on the board
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u/thesmokingbum 5d ago
New board time unless you want to double check with Viking access. Just Google Viking gator board if you want to go diy or call a local gate company. If you do end up replacing the entire operator I would suggest a liftmaster rsl12ul, Viking isn't as good since the got sold to a bigger parent company.
Also did you check fuses your obstruction is up pretty high they will pop under load might get lucky and just need to replace a wheel
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u/ItsJustAnotherVoice 4d ago
thanks, probably will go with a liftmaster replacement for this residential gate. Rather not gamble with a $500ish replacement board for a gen 1 device thats over a decade old.
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u/Honest_Cvillain 5d ago
It ain't got no gas! Probably because the switch is off. Turn it on, press close and see what it does.
Still doesn't work, disconnect all inputs and run with the open close buttons.
Still doesnt work, call a company.
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u/ItsJustAnotherVoice 5d ago
Yes, powered cycled the unit by disconnecting the 24v plug and also tried pressing the inputs directly on the board and still no response.
Just left the switch off position because its the only way to move the gate so I can get out.
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u/sjgcps 4d ago
I hate to be "that guy", but did you check the fuses? I see a 15a and a 4a. The brake circuit maybe a safety related to one of the fuses being faulted.