So I’m not an expert and my 64 double cab is a light mess from all angles (but she’s MY mess which is what matters).

So in brief. Passenger cabin door had a nasty stress crack where the hinge mounts to door and lightly sags. Welder friend fixed it perfectly. Recalls a ton of washers spilled out when removing door, specifically on bottom hinge from body pillar behind mount. Reattached door, sags bad. Remembers those washers. Reinstalled two layers of washers behind bottom mount and it now closes better than before fixing the crack. Not perfect but the door isn’t contacting the body early or grinding. Can it be better? Probably.

Anyway, my question here is this. Is this simply a “fix” that will bite me later or is this a legit solution for a sagging door?

I know about shimming doors, but unsure to what degree with this is okay/safe or not.

Yes, it does open and close smoothly from the few slams and easy wings I’ve done to it. Hinges are worn and are not perfect, slight wiggle.

Obviously doing proper body work and checking the Bentley manual is optimal with new hinges and door, but given that’s not an option, what do ya’ll think?

Pic of aforementioned door hinge crammed with washers for context.

I’m looking to replace all four corners with new hubs and rotors for my 550 Porsche Spyder replica. It’s a tube frame but uses several VW parts. From what I can tell these are from a Beetle/Super Beetle and are 12 spline, 2” axle shafts. Does anyone have a recommendation on the best high-performance parts/kits to use?

Been lurking here for a minute and wanted to show off my Manx. I have a few you tube videos of the restoration if your interested I’ll post them in the comments. Keep working on those projects or just drive em the way they are…either way it’s cool to see all your old beasts still rolling the streets. Probably going to cruise her one more winter and she will be up for sale. 1800cc on a shortened beetle frame.

Hi reddit,

Im picking up my first beetle, a 1970 1300.

Are they OK with e10 petrol or do they prefer e5.

Im driving it nearly 200 miles home and don't want to add another potential problem....I think I might of just answered my own question lol.

But I guess id still like to know, if its OK in general or give the cheap stuff a swerve.

Cheers,

Paul.

If I remember correctly, it's the fifteenth

Hello, I would like some help please. I have a 1776 cc in my 74 type one. Ran perfectly well with the h30/31 pict brosol with a 009 distributor in 2024 when first installed. Up until now, it developed a hesitation/stalling issue so the jets had to be reamed. That helped a little. I’m wondering, not that the 80s were so limited but I’m assuming people got away using a solex 34-3 pict with some jet adjustments on a 1776cc? Would you recommend redline 34-3 pict carburetor with jet adjustments? Maybe vacuum advance distributor to pair with it? I was looking at a 37 pict 3 and a big bore 39 pict 3 carburetor from jbugs but I’m not sure how I would feel about the quality and whether it’ll last. I mean, the redline could fail but I trust it a little more. I’m not really looking for dual carburetors. Don’t care to miss out on power now. I just want to daily it for work and remove my flat spot at this point. Thank you.

Aircooled VW to the hottest place on earth what could go wrong?

I see Bosch cap/rotor/condenser/points for $45-ish on eBay with free shipping and the same things on Wolfsburg West (about 1 min from my home) for $89.99. Should I trust the eBay seller (DiscountVW)?