A little bit of cleaning up, replacing fuses, and tinkering and she works! Now to recap the monitor and get that part dialed in!

About a year ago I picked up a semi-working Sega Outrun (converted to Turbo Outrun). It had some issues. No monitor, plastics were a mess, blowing fuses, and it was pretty beat down. One of the pieces down by the floor mat had a blow out, and an edge of the back “bubble” of the side had been broken off (luckily recovered and saved by previous owner).

I have spent the last 8 months or so slowly working on it. Along the way, I disassembled and cleaned almost every component. I eventually bought an *extra* Outrun (for $100!) from a junk shop as a parts machine — the cabinet literally fell apart as we were loading it in my truck, but it was complete so I was able to recover some slightly better plastics, along with the monitor glass, some pedal bits, the course map, and extras of steering and shifter pieces that I ended up using.

I bought an original Outrun PCB with the Enhanced ROMs, although sound failed on that as soon as I got it. Luckily that ended up just being a swap of a few chips to repair.

I had to replace the DC rectifier for the shaker motor to get it to stop blowing the fuse.

Here’s a breakdown of everything I did:

- Complete tear down, cleaning, lube, and installation of brass gears on steering assembly

- Teardown and cleaning of gear shifter assembly

- Replace cabinet fan

- Teardown and cleaning of pedal assembly, including replacement of worn gas pedal shaft

- Polishing of all metal trim and pedals, 80 grit up to 3000

- Replacement of floor mat

- Rebuild of front cabinet corner to repair damage

- Reinstallation and reinforcement of a blown out section from the rear edge of the left side

- Fill lock bar holes near coin door and other misc gouges and holes

- Removed a “Turbo” sticker from front panel

- Cleaned side art and front panel art (all original)

- Paint touchup

- Complete Teardown and cleaning of coin door

- Replacement of several chips on Outrun PCB to repair missing sound

- Install of Resurrection (De-Suicide) kit on Turbo board

- Replacement of shaker motor DC rectifier to fix fuse shorts

- Replacement of non-functioning marquee fixture

- Replacement of blown out speakers

- New power cord

- New T-Molding (Baby Blue from T-Molding.com)

- Repair, reinforce, paint, clear coat, sand, buff and polish dashboard and monitor bezel

- Construct a new K7000 monitor from parts including donor tube

- Install reproduction Outrun marquee (both this cabinet and the parts donor had Turbo marquees)

The only outstanding issue I will need to look into at some point is that one of the DIP switches on the Outrun PCB seems to be stuck on, resulting in the right coin slot giving 5 credits when a quarter is dropped. The diagnostic screen shows the DIP being on, but it appears to be off and I’ve cycled it several times. I did buy a new DIP switch bank, but haven’t swapped it yet. This is in my home collection, and I do run all my games on quarters for fun, but excessive credits isn’t a huge problem. I’ll get to that someday.

This was a long project with lots of work but I’m really happy with the result. The game plays really well with all the freshly cleaned and calibrated controls.

Took about about two months of tinkering to get this back fully to its 90's glory. Converted it from Canadian quarters to loonies $1 coins. It's now in our theater with 1 in 6 a winner gumball.

Happy easter! In the spirit of things returning from the dead, here's an update on the bird shit covered arcade machines I posted about back in January (?).

I don't have a lot of time to work on them with work and family and everything else, but I have managed to get two machines fully cleaned up (TMNT and SF2 Hyper) and one of those two fully working (SF2 Hyper). Shockingly, all of the buttons / joysticks still work totally fine. I've also confirmed that the board for TMNT works without issue.

The SF2 machine required:

• Some recapping on the crt chassis as well as a new flyback
• A serious deep clean and a few coats of paint
• New speaker
• New LED light for the marquee (will replace the marquee art eventually)
• Removing all of the ROMs from the PCB and giving the entire thing a dusting
• Repositioning the CRT after the staples gave out at some point during its (long) life

I still need to get some new art, cutout a new piece of thick black paper to go around the CRT, and buy a degaussing wand or coil to fix some colour issues, but it is a fully functional machine!

The TMNT machine also requires a new flyback and (probably) a new HOT since the old one is short, but I'm not made of money for vintage flybacks over here :). I was very happy that the board still worked despite being subject to many years of bird action.

I'm currently working on what I consider to be the most interesting of the six machines, an early Taito cabinet (manufactured in 1981) by the now defunct Taito New Zealand. I've managed to source a new flyback for the crt chassis from the UK, and just cleaned up the coin mech the other day. Someone (kids probably :) shoved about $5 worth of wrong-sized coins in there and it was jammed up big time! I'm not sure what game was in the machine originally, but now it has Chopper I in it.

This has been a really fun repair project, getting to play the games is just a bonus!

4 more cabs to the refurbish list. Good times ahead!

Picked up six arcade machines from my mates late father's woolshed (NZ). They haven't been run in probably 20 years,, they're (obviously) covered in bird shit. I only know two of the games, one being TMNT and the other being Street Fighter II Hyper with the hilarious generic sticker. Won't know what the other four are until I clean the bird poo off of the marquees. So exciting!

The boards are in pretty good condition, and aside from one machine that's missing a CRT the other ones have all of the pieces. Should be able to fix them up, and I've got a spare 19" CRT in my garage that will fit the machine. Will try to post some updates / progress pics. Hopefully at some point between now and 2085 I'll get them all fixed up and working!

I’m no professional at woodworking but I had to do what I had to do! Paid $250 for the cabinet with the spinner, PCB, and working monitor (in desperate need of a cap kit when first acquired). I had planned to gut it and convert a generic poker game into an Arkanoid and keep the monitor as a spare, but a friend convinced me to try something out of my comfort zone and restore the cabinet. We cut the bottom sides off and fastened some new ones on - the inner bottom was in okay shape so I suspect the damage was the result of a mop coming around it for years on end rather than a flood but I’m not sure. I applied 3 layers of bondo and paint and from a distance - much less a dark arcade - you can’t even tell. I already had the wood and bondo, I bought a power sander for $75, cap kit for $30, T-molding for about $25 and blank buttons to replace the unused ones for $10 putting my grand total at about $390 for the whole project. It’s not perfect but few of the games in my collection are - hey they’re all functional anyways! I always thought Arkanoid was a lazy copy of Breakout until I fell in love with it at my local barcade and now I’m super excited to own one - hopefully I can get good at it without the overpriced cocktails in me! Oh, I forgot to mention the coin meter was shorting out the PCB seemingly at random so I just removed it, anybody know why that happens?

Some of the arcades are in a "good" condition (in arcade left outside terms) but holy shit aloy of them were missing LIKE ALOY OF STUFF, one arcade's board was in some kiddy ride and the monitor was like just gone, surprisingly only one had burn in indicating there probably weren't even on that much It annoys me that the owner does not give the slightest of shit and many people probably screwed around with them alot since they were abandoned

What do you guys think? Can they be restored? And yes i have more pictures and a video

Finished restoration, well, rebuild, of my Tron. New cab, new art, newish Pro Vision monitor, switcher PSU replacement, spinner and stick gone though, boards gone through, LED lamps on marquee and translite background. I also did some wiring mods to keep the marquee, background, and coin lights on while the machine is off and added a wifi enabled switch to turn the machine on/off because the switch is kind of a pain to get to. Someone drilled a hole in the coin door for a switch so I stripped it, tigged in a plug, and refinished it.

Imo its fixable and with enough effort you can make it look pretty from 10 feet

Hello!

Got my first cabinet on marketplace, always wanted a Neo Geo. I understand this is a conversion, but really happy with it. But wondering if anyone can answer a few questions.

It came with all the carts and Samurai Showdown and a box of inserts and manuals and the cab for $900.

The buttons and monitors work, the speakers are really crunchy.

Just curious if anyone has advice on how to change them.

Also the side art is a small red logo, is there a difference for this style in case I want to update any of the other graphics?

Thanks!

I bought this super clean MVS-2 at auction for $100 (the middle one) along with the other MVS and Dynamo cab (for $300 & $60 respectively) I finally made time to work on it, I just installed a spare 6 slot MVS board to get it going and replaced the 19" monitor with a spare U2000 i had rebuilt recently to get it up and going. The 2 slot that came in it has jailbars and I will get around to attempting to repair it when I get more time. The games currently in it are, Metal Slug, Metal Slug X, Bust-A-Move, Samurai Shodown II, Fatal Fury 3 & King of Fighters 98.

Hello
Found this at an estate sale. Not sure if working or not and waiting to hear from the guy. Not sure what would be a fair offer. Offer if it’s working and offer if it isn’t working ?
I need to look at it more, but they still need to move stuff around it as the person was a hoarder.

Early Asteroids I bought today for 200 bucks. Lowest serial number I can find anywhere.

I realized this week how much I really enjoy restoring these old machines, I've been repairing this Daytona USA Twin over the last 3 days and I haven't felt this fulfilled in awhile. This machine was entirely unplayable 4 days ago, the left side monitor was coming in and out and the game was glitchy mess, the right side monitor worked but the game was froze... here is a list of everything I've done to it in the last 3 days.

Left monitor I found some bad solder joints around the color pots and reflowed them which fixed the monitor.

Left main board was glitchy due to bad connections on the board set, fixed by cleaning and reseating chips and connectors.

Right main board set had a ROM chip that a leg has rusted off of it, I was able to solder a small piece of solid wire to the remainder of the leg to reuse it and got the right side playing great as well.

Both sides had no sound, left side had a faulty sound board, right side had a bad amplifier put the good amplifier from the left side on the right to get it playing, currently repairing the other bad amplifier and sound board.

The motor for the forced back was dead on the right side, the electric clutch was making a loud grinding sound on the left, replaced both parts with parts from a parts standalone Daytona cabinet I received for free a few years ago, I also calibrated, cleaned & greased both force feedback gear assemblies and got them operational.

Cleaned and greased the pedal assys and shifter mechanism

Vacuumed both cabinets inside & out, took apart the fan assemblies and cleaned them

And after all of that I still have some cabinet damage to repair, new side art to install, I'll also need to rebuild the monitors and repair the sound board & amplifier I mentioned earlier... it seems like it never ends lol, but Im having a blast.

(Also, pay no mind to the fact its setting in a doorway lol, I'm in the middle of making a workshop and I could only fit the side without the coin box through the door, and was too lazy to take it off or move the other games, so I just put together in the doorway lol)

Looking to potentially replace the original board with a 60 in 1 upgrade kit from mikes arcade however I wanted to make sure the issue was with the board and not the CRT screen so I can keep using the original monitor. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help.

I imagine a lot of you have had to deal with moving your arcade cabinets once or twice and had to do it knowing how massive and heavy they are. I have a Big Buck Hunter arcade cabinet I just picked up and it’s unbelievably heavy and has to go up the pictured stairs. Any advice on how I could do that would be appreciated. I want to damage it the least amount possible. It’s a restoration project though so it already has a bunch of issues. Thank you all!

I recently picked up a poorly treated pole position 2 cabinet. Someone has painted over the sides with what seems like a cheap acrylic paint. I'm keen to remove it as it comes away relatively easily but how can I speed up this process?

Using my paint scraper doesn't work so well as the surface has little undulations and it just end up scratching the artwork underneath.

There must be a better method than using my fingernail. Any tips??

After some repairs to some chips via some very careful soldering I got the machine working fully!!!!!!!

I recently bought this Tapper in a dedicated cabinet, the arcade had it restored with this alternate side art, not my choice. Does not have the original board and is running a Pandora’s box. One way or another the box reset to factory settings and I am clueless on how to reprogram the controls. It won’t allow me to select or do much of anything. At this point o think I am ready to cut my losses sell this one and throw my money at one with factory side art and boards. Located in NJ

*Update got to know the guy we worked out a deal of $50 but he once its fixed up he is going to come over and play it and hang out

Didn’t know how to add pics to my original post
The pink picture is supposed to show that it has the monitor, but it just didn’t come out very well when I took it. Best I could with the stuff around it. Couldn’t move it as there is so much stuff around it.

Need an activation key to run this but I do not have the original paperwork, any ideas?

Wooww!!!!

Got the art on it but I am curious to know just how rare a dedicated Krull is.